Sambo

Rimu dust is pretty toxic. It's noted for being particularly carcinogenic

I've been waiting all weekend for the trip report!

I can probably help m8. I'm in Glenfield. 021 0249 3707. Edit: just seen you posted last week. Get it sorted?

With that thinking, you could be a bottle scientist. Reckon it could be decanted and sprayed with a normal primer gun? I'm hoping to get quite a smooth finish.

I spotted this on one of those little Mercedes Vitz things at the workshop next door.

I've bought stuff from Car Colours before. Are any of the alternatives tintable? Sorry for the spam Hampie, nice firewood haul.

I started replacing photos, but that was sucky and slow. I'm just gonna dump a bunch here to celebrate 12 years of ownership. I've made new front struts in the last little while, so now it should be able to get a cert. At the end of last summer I got halfway through replacing the fuel lines, then it started raining. Since then there's been a puddle of mud under the car (which I can't move), and I haven't been that keen to climb under. Updates soon. Hopefully.

Where do you buy Raptor, and what does it cost? Keen to do the bumpers and wheel arches on my Paj with it, since it can be colour matched.

Feel free to shoot me a PM if you only want a ballpark price to gauge budget etc too.

Mods, please feel free to take this down if not appropriate. Hi Everyone, I mentioned this in the DIY thread, but it's open to everyone here. I do all the estimating etc for Unity Scaffolding here in Auckland. I can help you out with scaffolds large and small, or simple roof edge protection. I can't do it free, but I can give OSGCs the same rates that the big boys get. If anyone here is a builder/painter looking for scaff on their projects, we're Sitewise accredited and are currently doing all kinds of commercial and residential work. Happy to work out good deals for you too. Just send me a PM, text me - 021 0249 3707, or email sam@unityscaffolding.co.nz. instagram: unity.scaffolding Edit: range is Greater Auckland. We tend to stop being economically viable around Silverdale/Warkworth up north, and Pokeno to the south.

That was anticlimactic. I went out and put the battery back in but it was still cranking slowly, then I noticed steam coming off one of the grounding points close to the battery. It was pretty corroded and when I went to give it a clean up the bolt sheared off. I started drilling the bolt out, then realised it went right through to the wheel well, so I wound the end out with vice grips, sanded everything, put it back together, aaand.. engine wouldn't start. Didn't even get a cough out of it. Maybe someone can help. The pressed in fitting in the carb for the fuel return is very loose, and I was expecting it to just piss fuel out. Is it more likely that this is actually allowing the carb to draw air in instead of fuel? Also, I live down a long driveway, but the car is currently living on the road. Walking up and down the driveway is a massive ball ache whenever I need a tool, especially when it means that I have to pack up all my shit so that my tools aren't out on the footpath for 5-10 minutes while I find stuff. Luckily there's storage space in the engine bay.

@Beaver Yeah, I've found that to be about right. I also noticed a huge difference swapping to the electronic dizzy, there's one on TM at the moment for $180. Mine was pretty flogged out though, so it was probably the new body etc more than anything. Just converted the flatdeck ute to a Weber 32/26 yesterday. I was going to get the manual secondary actuator I designed made up, but then I remembered I had all the parts for the swap. When I went to start it the battery didn't have much juice after sitting a couple of weeks, charged it last night and about to go and see if the carb works. Also, both utes had their rear passenger tyres go down, one with a puncture and one with a loss of sealing on the bead. That looked a bit shit with them both sitting out on the road.

Yeah, sounds good to me. @Berjjj?

Been working on the flatdeck kingcab. So the issue with this was that I couldn't advance the timing past 0* no matter how much I fucked with it, and unsurprisingly it didn't really run very well. The distributor on these can only go in one position, so I spent ages trying to prove to myself that the camchain must be a tooth off, even though that didn't feel right. Then I found out that the distributor is run off the oil pump which runs off the crank, and can be in the wrong position. So all it took was pulling the oil pump off and putting it in the right place, I got it right first go, but I think that was luck more than anything. Here's some pictures of nothing. It was still struggling to idle, even with the timing sitting at 10-12*. Pulled the dizzy cap off and the contacts were basically worn down to nubbins, it's a Nissan branded cap, so it may have done 200+kms. Ordered new leads, plugs, cap and rotor from rock auto, hopefully they come soon. Then found a spare dizzy in all my shit so I took the cap and rotor from there, already a big improvement. After a quick test drive it still struggles to climb hills in 3rd, and I think the vacuum operated secondary isn't opening on the carb. A wee while back I designed a part to manually operate the secondary, so I might get that cut out and test it.

So yeah, I never ended up selling it, cause I didn't want to. This is now proving to be the right decision (never sell cars!) as I've been made redundant and have to give the work car back. The supposedly good new engine has a blown headgasket though. I've ordered a new top end gasket set, and will be replacing the Z24 head with a Z20 head that I picked up a while ago for an EFI conversion. I still want to do the EFI swap, but can't(/shouldn't?) do it right now. Tossing up whether to do rings and bearings at the same time. I also still have the other kingcab, which now has no rust in the roof, but I didn't bother updating the thread for that. Unfortunately I'm also waiting on an oil pump gasket for it. Until the gaskets arrive I'm going to be riding my bicycle to job interviews.