Sambo

I don't mind buying a new friction plate, if required.

What are some things I should be looking at before throwing this in my car? I've got no basis for comparison to look at the condition/wear on the friction plate or pressure plate. Would it also be an idea to get a workshop to check for runout or something on the flywheel, or is that a small risk?

Cool, that's good to know. I wasn't sure if there was actually a difference between fwd/rwd, bigport/smallport etc. I've also read a few snippets from 10 year old forum posts etc that 7m alternators will fit with a few more amps, but I really want something concrete that I can buy and sort the problem this week.

Oooh, that would be great! I'll pm you. Still after any advice.

Hi Team, I just went to fit an aftermarket alternator pulley to the alternator that's on the smallport in my AE85. The shaft on the alternator is a fair bit larger than the hole available in the pulley, and I'm guessing that it's had some other alternator put in. The shaft diameter on the alt is roughly 16.8mm, the factory style pulley I have is ~14.8mm. The alt I have has slotted into the factory AE86 brackets, but may be slightly larger diameter overall, as the top fouls on the top water neck. Interestingly/annoyingly, the pulley set I was sold second hand as an AE86 set (I have less faith in this than Flos.ie) fitted this alt, but with a different outer diameter. Does anyone know what other alternators are likely to fit in? Looking to expand the search to try and find something second hand and/or quickly. I'd prefer a factory type solution for part finding in the future. Fucking over this, and it's preventing me solving another problem. I'm reluctant to try making the hole in the pulley bigger, I don't want to make it off centre or on the piss on a part doing thousands of RPMs.

Aloha gentlemen, if one were to blow down a 1/4" fuel return line, how much resistance ought one expect to encounter? I've just dropped the gearbox out of my car to swap over the "semi blocked" fuel return line in the car, then I went to test the spare and found it completely blocked. I put some compressed air down the one in the car again and it seems to have improved, but I'm hesitant to put the box back in unless I'm sure it'll work. Edit: Follow up question, is it feasible to bend ali bundy tube by running it under the car, or does it really need to be bent up then installed?

I don't think so. He was a boatbuilder who started doing his own designs. Architect to superyacht builder isn't the most ridiculous switch I guess, but still wow!

Tasman 20 was designed by Alan Wright, who designed my old boat also. You'll see his name attached to an extraordinary number of NZ yachts. Mostly they go by other names (Tasman, Variant, Lotus, Tracker etc), unlike a lot of other NZ designed boats. Very cool that your boat was built with the guys who developed the Nolex design too. That's another Kiwi classic. Apparently Nolexs have been used to circumnavigate.

Stoked to see an update on this! Bilge keelers may not be the fastest boats but clever sailing can still make them competitive, plus you'll always get the best anchorage for the party after the race. My old yacht wasn't a bilge keeler, but it was always satisfying chugging into an anchorage, past all the big boats, and anchoring right next to the sand. The best way to learn to sail is by doing it. You've got the type of mind that will figure out how to trim the sail nicely all on your own by seeing where it's flapping or wrinkling, then looking at the ropes you have available to change the shape of the sail. It's hard to describe to someone when the right moment is to release the sheets during a tack or a gybe, but it's easy to feel when you're doing it.

What an enjoyable day, felt like being a teenager again with nothing to do all day except fuck around with cars. So nice. Starting at the start, I bought a RWD waterpump pulley and got the engine all buttoned up. Ended up using the aftermarket alternator pulley, which will need replacing as the larger diameter will mean it isn't spinning as fast as it should. I put it it all together without the thermostat so that I can flush the cooling system easier, but the rear housing of the water pump is leaking like a sieve, so it'll need to come apart and be goo'd up. So today I filled the cooling system half a dozen times while getting the car out of the carport, cleaning 3 or 4 years of crap off it, pulling the dash apart, putting it back together, and putting the car back in the carport. All while moving it multiple times so my neighbours could get in and out of the driveway. I wanted to do interior work out of the carport because it's dark down there, and I can barely open the doors. I also spent quite a long time bathing all the interior in armourall. The dash probably drank up 250mls of it and still looks dry as a buzzards crotch, anyone got any recommendations for rejuvenating products? To be fair, the dash is already cracked, and it isn't going to improve much, but I'd like to stop it cracking anywhere else. Barn find spec dirt: I sorted a bit of accumulated crap out of the inside so I could sit on both sides of the car, then stripped the lower dash, with some assistance. The goal was to fit all the missing bits of the fan system/ducting, including an AC delete tube. I didn't bother when I put the dash in, because racecar, and I also put gauges in the place of drivers vents. I took those out and refitted the vents. I also fitted an AE86 dash cluster that I've had sitting around for yonks. The oil temp gauge goes straight to hot though, which is a little annoying, but not the end of the world. I did notice that one wire into the dash cluster was broken out of the pin, maybe that's the culprit. Once I got the dash back together it was time for a beer, so I tucked the car away. Next is sorting the cooling system leaks so that I can flush it and fit the new thermostat with some actual coolant. I did also notice that a the surface rust in some parts of the car has really accelerated, which isn't all the surprising given that it lives above wet concrete for most of the year. It's going to need body work sooner than later, which sucks. I'd like to have more time to save up and do it really well , but it'll probably end up being a bit half assed. Oh well.

Inside of the cooling system looking good! aaaand that's a no on the pulleys. Must be a fwd set. Edit: I've had a senior moment and installed a RWD waterpump on a FWD engine. Awesome.

Right, digging this thread up from wherever it got to. I got under the car a while back and unclipped all the fuel lines, then realised that I was unlikely to be able to get the replacement return line in without dropping a fair bit of the driveline, and I really couldn't be arsed with it. Then I got really busy with painting the outside of my house, and that's where it's been for the last X number of months with the same puddle of mud underneath through winter. To be fair, I probably should drop the gearbox and fit the fancy flywheel and clutch that I've had for about 5 years, but for the meantime I think I'm going to run another return line and just get the car moving. I wriggled back under the car and connected the fuel lines back up, then suffered a few self inflicted setbacks (the stereo is now dead, can anyone guess what I did?), and got the car started a couple of evenings ago. There are no pictures of any of this because being under the car in the mud is fucking miserable. I also recently realised that it's been sitting with plain tap water in the cooling system for a loong time. So now that it's running I'm replacing the cambelt, waterpump, and thermostat, then I'm giving the cooling system a big flush. After that I can get the car out of it's hole and clean it inside and out as it's full of spiders etc, and seeing it clean is always good for motivation. I stripped the front of the engine yesterday, then found that someone had put a 12pt bolt on the cambelt tensioner for some reason, so I had to stop. I found a random 10mm 12pt socket in the back of my hand tools drawer this morning, so I'll continue today (if it isn't raining) and hopefully get it all buttoned up. In semi related news, I bought a full set of what I thought were standard RWD 4age pulleys as the alternator pulley doesn't match the others and it's chewing the belt out. What turned up is actually lightweight aluminium numbers. They also have very different diameters to the standard pulleys, which I'm not 100% sure about. The offsets also seem to be slightly different, so I'm not sure how they'll go with the standard powersteering pump pulley later on. I haven't worked it all out, but I think the net effect is to slightly overspeed the waterpump and the alternator. I have no idea if this is desirable on a street car or not? Other things to do in no particular order: - Fit stereo and retro box speakers - Fit new, lower rate, rear springs (and buy some spring bushes) - collect 3d printed parcel tray clips from @Berjjj - Buy some big clips for the silicone joiner holding the airfilter on - Organise some kind of radiator overflow - Sort out what I'm doing for tyres. The 14x7's currently have 185/55R15s on them, but on the LVVTA chart this isn't acceptable for cert. - Figure out the popup headlight circuit (they're doing the thing where they constantly go up and down) - Fit powersteering

I've got $2 that says he wants to do an auto to manual conversion.

I've got this old gear knob that I want to put in my car, but the mounting thread is too small. What do people reckon, is this steel piece cast in or can it be removed?

It is common for the coby headers to be far too close to the starter. Factory manifold is close, but not that close. The factory RWD starters have a heatshield on them, I'm not sure if FWD ones do.