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About hohocc

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  1. It would be most appropriate if you got a pic of your xjs parked across multiple hairdresser car sorry ev charging point parks.
  2. Gabriel M55999 front struts for Corollas of roughly this vintage are $12.17 NZ on Rockauto at the moment. Sure there's some freight and Jacinda tax to pay but that's not a bad starting point. If they only last a couple of years she will probably have bought something else by then anyway.
  3. Thanks folks, lots of good options here. Turns out I've got a spare distributor so will be able to convert that with the Stealth kit and still have the original as a spare. Like the idea of the new accuspark but am trying to keep the spending on a shortish leash. Appreciate all the info provided, cheers.
  4. Sounds like the 25d4 was used in about everything british in the 70s with 4 cylinders. There's talk on an oz mini forum of a couple of Nissan options which sound of interest: http://www.ausmini.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1498 As mentioned above I could just put some new points in (may even have a couple of sets laying around), or lose the points in the current distributor, or get a new reproduction that's electronic. Or find the French alternative which is one that came out of left field a bit, will do some googling on that. Am still keen to find out about Japanese off the shelf (or
  5. Way back in this thread: There was mention of a Mitsi Lancer electronic distributor fitting a Billy Bunter/Minx engine, the words suggesting later Hunters had them from new, but no detail was forthcoming. A Nissan Bluebird CA20 dizzy was also mentioned but that sounded less bolt on-ish. After extensive factfinding on wikipedia (yep that may be a contradiction) it would appear Lancers in NZ in the early 80s had a 4g32 up front. Is anybody out there able to fill in the gaps and confirm or deny if the 4g32 dizzy is Hunter compatible? I've got a 72 Hunter and it's about time I got
  6. Yep the paint code on the makers plate will be DC.
  7. Any true Hunter Barry would know the colour is not green, but "Deep Chartreuse"... At least it is on mine, which is not quite so tidy.
  8. Might be worth posting your question on rcgroups.com or rcuniverse.com, there must be tens of thousands of those engines out there and someone will have struck this issue.
  9. Well, the car is my second car, which will become my daughters car when she gets her restricted. So if I put a clutch in it and it's not flash I have plenty of time, and another car to use while I pull it apart, possibly buy another new clutch (2 clutches from rockauto is still cheaper than 1 at trade from bnt, and for me at least the grind wasn't free), get a grind done, and put it together again. The car is probably only going to do another 20000km in our ownership so if by not grinding I risk it lasting less than the 100000km it may last by doing the whole job it's still more than likely to
  10. Yeah that sounds about like I thought, I'll see what I find when it's apart and probably just bolt it all together with fingers crossed. Thinking waaaay back I can recall trouble with a new clutch release bearing that disintegrated into a pile of carbon straight after fitting (manufacturing defect), it's the only occasion I experienced any fault in a new clutch. Thanks for the responses.
  11. Gidday, my old corolla needs a new clutch and I'm told by BNT that no clutch manufacturer will guarantee their clutch unless the flywheel is ground. First I've heard of this as it's a long time since I changed a clutch. Is the flywheel grind a significant issue, or is it one of those stupid things that are put in place to give the maker an out if their product is no good? A bit like if you cross the road down the road from a pedestrian crossing and get hit by a tourist ACC will tell you you've been reckless and maybe you should shoulder the blame, when really the tourist was an idiot on t
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