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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/16 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Spun up some shock mounts for the rear. Top ones got welded through the RHS that goes between the C-notch. Bottom pair got welded to a plate which was then welded to the lower 4-link brackets. Added the commodore sway bar as well. Once everything was fitted we tested it and worked well. Fully welded all the diff and airbag mounts etc so is pretty done for now. Started on the front end again. Test fitted the sway bar and it only just fits in between the chassis and front end. Need to make up some mounts and maybe scallop a bit out for more clearance. Front shock mounts will look something like this. Drew them up and now just waiting for them to be laser cut.
  2. 2 points
    Hey guys Have entered the Corona into drag day for the 1st time. really looking forward to it. Car needed a few things touched up for wof and def a new clutch ! Brought an electric dizzy n ignitor from aussie which should arrive next week. Also brought some factory fender mirrors what a score !! They look great Anyway after fluffing around with them decided it was time to get to the clutch so out with the engine Clutch was well buggered lol belongs in a museum Had a test fit while out Got a bit carried away and ended up cleaning the head, painting the block n gearbox, radiator fan surround and under sealing the whole Corona!! While taking the front wheels off I noticed a split in the flexible brake lines. It only went for wof check the same day n didn't get picked up on.. lucky I noticed it. So while I was at it I decided to both both sides just to be safe. Looks a million bucks !! Will install electric ignition during week need to get another tacho as my smith's one won't work with electric only points ignition Looking forward to a new clutch too that'll be lush Cheers
  3. 2 points
    As i have mentioned here and there, one of the big draw cards for having the EFI model isnt just the awesomeness, but the fact that i can convert the car to run a Speeduino custom ECU. I build the Speeduino ages ago, well before i got the car, and have been waiting to get the project moving again. With the car now in my possession, the Speeduino project is back on the boil and parts have been ordered. I will be removing the standard engine loom and making a custom loom with all new wire and plugs. I also intend to run a pair of Subaru coil packs and igniters in a wasted spark configuration. I havent quite worked out where i will mount them. I have completed the initial wiring diagram sketch, And will be building off that with a V2 sketch outlining all the connectors and where it will run in the engine bay. I also need to fuse the main power feed to the Speeduino. I picked the enclosure for the Speeduino today. Has enough space for the boards, wiring and even the Bluetooth adaptor. Being plastic it should help with reception for Bluetooth too, although i may look at mounting that module outside the box. The wiring will come out the end of the box, once i decided which connector to use. I have the new wiring for the harness on the way, along with all the weather proof connectors i could ever need. I just need to weld the WB02 sensor bung into the exhaust, buy and fit the trigger wheel/sensor, and make up a new intake pipe to bypass the AFM (and weld the bung for the IAT into that).
  4. 1 point
    Hello all, I'm not new to oldschool but I haven't posted before. I have recently purchased a 1974 2.5 PI. (I'll try to add a few photos in as I go) sight unseen from Timaru no wof, no reg no worries? Anyway I sorted a few obvious problems. Including a non functioning alternator, a new airel and a door mirror just off the top of my head. And then got it down to see what it needs for a wof. It came back needing both lower balljoints, an adjust on a wheel bearing and a small bit of rust which turned out to be nothing! As I write this I'm waiting for some bushes to arrive. The rust has been fixed, the wheel bearing has been adjusted and one new front strut insert shock thingy has been fitted. I have fitted the balljoints into some spare lower arms I had and am waiting for bushes to arrive so I can fit them along with new bushes (radius arm and lower balljoint arm ones to be exact). I decided not to be tight and replace them all at the same time as I was taking it all apart anyway. I have also already got a white 1977 2500TC which has all the S goodies and even badges on. And she 1976 French blue TC which is being repaired body work wise and will be resprayed eventually. I hope to keep you all up to date with what's going on with these cars etc. I will also start a post over in the discussion area so we can all talk about it if you're that way inclined.
  5. 1 point
    RUST! Was just getting worse so I decided I should probably fix it. As you can see this panel has been painted quite a few times; Original brown, then yellow, blue, another coat of blue and then red haha So stripped it all back to bare metal. Did the valance as well, since that had some decent stone chips etc. Just two bits of rust to fix now; a hole under the wiper motor and a bit under the fuel flap. Not looking forward to trying to fix them.
  6. 1 point
    Well my lack of action on the rear end bit me in the ass. It got chucked out on noisy rear wheel bearings, terrible rear brakes and the exhaust pipe moving too much. plus the high stop light was flashing with the right indicator. I must have wired it in wrong . So it's off to buy brake bits and do a little wiring.
  7. 1 point
    I have been slowly working away on this van, and dropped the engine in yesterday. What a bloody mission! The extra height of the supercharger made it REALLY tight to get in there. I had to notch the front crossmember to allow the sump to drop down and clear it, and it is really tight for space in all directions. But it does fit! And no cutting or beating of the floorpan or bulkhead required! There are a few tweaks needed for clearance, but nothing major. Here is a pic of it sitting in place. I have also installed a MK3 Transit power steering box. The steering box was straightforward enough, remove the Mk2 mounting plate and fit the Mk3 version. For the steering column I used the Mk2 outer part, and cut it off where it protrudes through the bulkhead. I fitted the Mk5 shaft to this. And used a coupling from a Mk5 with the 2x UJ's so that I could get rid of the rubber coupling that the Mk3 has, and also keep the steering column on its original axis. There was a little bit more to it than this, but you get the idea. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/50625-browndogs-supervan-2-yet-another-one/
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Loom is back and nearly in! BCs have arrived and are off to Surfab tomorrow to get welded up. Old set of C type SSR MK3s are currently with Aidan at Pine Engineering getting turNed into something crazy. Exhaust and cert and I should be done, for the time being..
  10. 1 point
    well this was quite the non-event... i moved islands, no way was taking this with me ever going to be feasible. ended up selling to some gavin who had plans of a hektik track car... it popped up on the tard $1 reserve one week later. however i stumbled into Repco Queenstown for my usual order of blue checker plate floormats and bargain bin spanner sets, when i spotted this thing outside. the owner of the car was behind the counter, a British lad, and saw me cheesin, engaged in a sharn, and said if you want it make an offer as my visa is up in december. so as the stars aligned, i purchased another one! this one is suuper lush compared to the last - manwell 8 valver with 66 kw of pure self esteem, two extra headlights, knock off bbs' and still too many doors. last owner was a foamer for golfs back in the uk, has recently put in a new clutch, timing belt, and while he was there inspected and replaced head gasket. so it is a minta! look forward to putting it through its paces. has a few bits and pieces i would like to tidy up, namely the door trims and replace the grill with a not cable tied/gti number. and some bosch incisions to the ride height. enjoy
  11. 1 point
    spent most of the day fiddling with 3 whitworth tappet spanners, a work light, and a feeler gauge trying to contort myself over the engine so i could see what i was doing while setting the valve clearances they had all tightened up a little, probably has not been done for 20 years because its a hell of a job put it all back together, twin carbs back on and put a few bits together to sort out the new throttle linkage and return springs, and put the air filters on. will need a few old gaskets swapped out with new ones for a propper tune once everything is put together and theres an exhaust. warmed it up and did a couple of launch tests down the driveway, its not much distance but it feels noticeably more powerful, i think i could get a wheel going for the first time ever
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Going to leave the welding on the front bit until I've acquired some epoxy primer, and also finished the valence which is at the strippers. There must have been a battery incident in the past because there were some holes in the inner guard behind it. Metal is a bit thin, but I got it non-holey at least. Check out the inner guard area on the passenger side. The area between the floor and the sill wasn't so good though. So, cutting time.... I'm only going as far as necessary to remove the really bad bits. Time for some new metal now....
  14. 1 point
    The day finally arrived. Up at 4am to pickup and tow the car down to Taupo. Pics below for your viewing pleasure. Car went solidly all day, the gear ratios of the J160 is amazing on the track and the Cusco LSD certainly helps keep the car planted. I did really notice the lack of rear swaybar though (ran out of time to fit it) and of course my cheap chinese tyres, but it was still the most fun I have had in a long time! So now I have a solid list of thing to work on before the next track day and also working towards getting it certed/road legal. Happy days.
  15. 1 point
    Woahhhhhhhhh. Its been a while. I have been picking away at little bits here and there and in the last two days put in a bit more effort. I thought I’d better do an update as it’s a great way to motivate myself and actually see the progress. Last time I left you with a photo of the engine bay painted. The car went back on the hoist then I finished making brake lines. I finished cleaning and painting the front brake calipers, mounted them up and cut/bent/swaged/flared and fitted the brake lines to suit. I then decided the shiny new brake lines made the axle look very messy indeed so I just had to remove the lines and paint it. Overall it makes working on the underside so much nicer and looks good for the WOF test too. New seals in the freshly painted master cylinder and bench bleed it before bleeding the system. It was a slow process made faster by using a make shift pressure bleeder and bike track pump. It got even faster when I discovered the loose leaking union on the opposite side to where I was sitting. Brake pedal came up well and they feel good. There is a few years worth of rust to score off the discs on the first application though. People size their wheel dish or lack of road clearance with a phone as a scale. Well here’s a new one- check out the size of my enormous axle… While the car was up I ran some nice thick cable down to the front for the starter.. Oh btw..I had previously forgot to mention the rusty bits along the gutter drain lip over the rear tailgate (hatch..) opening. Well. There was rusty bits. Now they are gone. It was a tricky lots to replace with compound curves but its important. Luckily it was solid around all the hinge area as I could see that being a right pita to fix. So the only rusty bits left are some little bits on the doors and another patch on the tailgate (hatch…..) plus weld a check strap retainer back in place for the passenger door. Then I think I can safely put the welder away. The rocker cover had ugly breather vent tubes sticking right out the top and this had to change. Chopped them off, altered the interior oil splash guard to suit a rear mounted exit pipe so I can hide the breather hose away. Then a flick of filler and a coat of finest spray can paint and it looks much better. The old tube was a tad messy anyway.. Modded the splash shields.. Painted.. I had to modify the inlet manifold too. Same reasons- ugly outlets with no thought to a tidy engine bay. I removed both, welded them up and filed the lot smooth. I then machined up a new boss with a tapered thread to suit a different pcv valve and welded it in where it will work better with the new hose layout.. Hannah painted the engine and bell housing satin black. I refitted a cleaned up alternator Andre gave me. Cheers again Andre. The car previously had a generator fitted with an ugly control box. No no no. That wont do. The alternator looked exactly like the ones in the Haynes manual but it had the lugs orientated wrong ie it was made to mount on the other side of the engine? Then I noticed its front half looked symmetrical. Spot the difference in these two photos… Yep- undoing the front half and spinning it around 120 degrees allowed the alternator to mount on the side I wanted. Clever chaps. So I altered the existing generator bracket… and it all fits fine now. Yay- now I have 35amps of charge capacity to play with. I can probably find a suitable tape deck to run along with a really old inefficient amp. Then play suitable old 60/70’s music as I hold traffic up every where. Yes. Then we slung the shiny clean 1159cc power plant back into its home. Painted the grill area black as well so to work in better with the planned GT grill. I remounted the cleaned and painted wiper rack but will need another tapered rubber seal thingee I’ve yet to source. Painted and fitted the hinges in place. Then I cleaned and stripped the Stromberg carb. It was dribbling out the bottom when I had been checking the engine ages back and I found some hardened perished O rings. That’ll go back together and then I’ll make a little alloy pulley to suit the cable pull offered by the later preferred Viva HC throttle pedal I’ll be fitting. Hannah took the terrible old dash top rescue under her wing. She carefully filled the cracks and missing section in the replacement dash top I was given and made it very neat indeed. Big thanks to Hannah for her patience exceeds mine on those jobs. Then last weekend she celecbrated her fantastic job by sailing a jump on her old Fat Chance mtb and landing in a not very Danny Macaskill sort of way. In fact landing on her face. So as a treat she got a helicopter ride… Hannah is healing well and I have lots of Viva jobs lined up for her to cheer her up. I’ve painted the light brackets and swapped out one of the manky headlights for a good spare. Painted the back of the headlights to tidy them up. Next job will be the wiring and check, rebuild and add the Accuspark electronic ignition kit my Dad brought back home after a family holiday. Hopefully with that I may well be able to reliably sample the full 50bhp that this little engine might muster up! That is a about it for now. Very happy to get that off my chest. I might just go out and do some more! It quite a fun part of a resto this. Pick up bit, clean it, paint it, fit it. Good music, good coffee, helpful fluffy cat and you’re sorted! Here is a photo of how the engine bay is looking at this point in time..
  16. 1 point
    Crossmember full of rust and crud - and holes After hacking it out, the passenger side 'rail' needs some work. Drivers side is better, appears to have more oil leaked over it - just needs a small patch, and the corner brace is still mostly there. Need to scratch up some 2mm sheet steel for the replacement bits.
  17. 1 point
    OK, so this Wagon has turned up at my place.
  18. 1 point
    Yep, there are several ways to skin a cat. This was merely an example of how Molasses works all by itself. This might be considered messy if you are a poof and don't want to dirty your delicate hands but I wouldn't put my hands in a tub of phosphoric acid when by bracket falls off the wire ? No offense intended Spencer. I got my Molasses free from our Office Lady at work to trial its use, the drum was a freebie also. I'm up $80-00 woohoo !
  19. 1 point
    Just use phosphoric acid, or for more gentle use citric acid. The molasis has acid in it from bacteria that eat the sugar, it's like the messiest way to do a acid dip ever? It's nice and gentle but so is citric acid and you can make 1000l for about $80, not sure if molasis is that economical? Said it before but no hardened steel should be soaked in acids for long periods so depends what parts are stuck Hemi.
  20. 1 point
    Christmas came early!!! Also forgot to mention earlier. I sent my wiper motor off to be repaired, Wayne Grimmer at Western auto electrical did a fantastic job and for a reasonable price ($320inc where as a new one was $550-800 depending on whether I imported myself or went through chucks) the fuel gauge didn't work it always read full. I carried out checks to make sure that it wasn't a faulty sender or a short in the signal wire, which it wasn't. Sent the gauge to Robinsons instruments who found an internal short and repaired if for $160, So now all the electricals are working good (except for the dash lights which isn't very high on my list of concerns) Now the waiting game to send the car off for the floor pans/seatbelt mounts begins. Then install airbags, refit interior, cert, compliance, Drive.......... if only it was that easy haha
  21. 1 point
    New paint on . Ive flated off ,cut and polished the bonnet and two front guards. I used 1200 grt paper and a medium cutting compound then finished off with a fine cut compound I got from resenes that leaves a lovely mirror finish. I could probably have taken more paint off to get a better finish ,but I'm always worried about going to far and through the clearcoat. I'm reasonably happy with how it looks so far. I havnt decided if I will redo the black on bonnet and boot like it was before. Think ill live with it a while and decide later.
  22. 1 point
    Night missions for the insomniac's These tires are a bit thinner and balder then the previous, ended up facing the other way at one point haha
  23. 1 point
    I am really enjoying doing this its very satisfying really. 12 months ago I never would have imagined being able to fabricate metal patches and the weld them into a car.
  24. 1 point
    So. I didn't die, but yeah had a bunch of crazy head issues - mostly sorted through an influx of medication. Got the engine and trans mounts done at DKM - they did a jolly good job. Now lego-ing the car back together. Only it's like trying to build a spaceship, when the blocks you have are for a castle. And half of them are Megablox and Duplo. Got the front end of the interior finished, slammed in some sound deadener. Now just waiting on some parts for the engine - picking up an alternator today, then waiting on a longer shift cable, new pulleys and belts and a wiring harness (gonna rewire the whole thing from scratch - yay!) Should be fun.
  25. 1 point
    Couple weeks ago I decided to get my wheels tidied up .. got em back yesterday really happy with how they are now to seal em up n chuck em on car .. Tires being used r 185/55/r14 .. thinking of increasing rears to 205/55 or something of similiar for something decent.. 9" rim Here's some wheel porn here's what they orginally looked like Got wheels taken off bead.. Tires r a good fit lol centre's were tigged to the rear lips had em chemically dipped n acid dipped to clean em all up Even took radiator surround and bonnet hinges to be dipped. Centre's went off to powdercoaters . Used Brian n Whyte in kingsland nice guys and really well priced . 40 bucks per rim to go metallic gun metal grey and then clearcoated. Front bands I took to progressive electroplaters n polishers in new lynn travis is the guy to see he's awesome. Here's finished product . What a difference the bands are they are like mirrors now. Thanks for looking
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