browndog

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  1. Just finished the first week in lockdown, and I have been out in the garage working on the Mk1! Managed to get a lot done, and took it for a test drive yesterday. ( to Pak N Save for groceries of course! ) First impressions are good, it feels much better than before. The steering box conversion has transformed the way it drives - previously it had a tendency to wander around a lot, and the steering felt very "disconnected" from the steering wheel, there was no feel or feedback. It tracks nice and straight now with no corrections required, it has a reasonable amount of weight, but is easy to park. The Merc electro hydraulic pump which feeds hydraulic pressure to the steering box is getting noisier, so I will swap that out with another one I have tomorrow. The new exhaust sounds so much better! No overly loud, but has a beautiful crisp V8 rumble. ) The trans was playing up a bit, it was leaving in second gear sometimes. I adjusted the bands this morning, and that seemed to fix it. Brakes are still very average, solid pedal but requires a very hefty push on the pedal to stop. I think the brake booster is still playing up, so I will get another one when the lockdown is lifted and try that. Carb will need some tuning, it was a new Edelbrock (Weber) straight out of the box, so might need some rejetting etc. but it is fairly close. So still a few things to sort, but getting there, and overall very happy with it
  2. no worries Gordon, I was an auto sparky in a former life, so feel free to ask electrical questions Yep must admit I was really pleased when Jacinda announced the lockdown. We are ahead of the ball at the moment, and better to take a bit of pain now, than be dealing with a fuckin huge disaster later by dragging our feet. I have never been a Labour supporter, but the way our PM reacted to the Christchurch massacre, and now to COVID-19 has been really impressive, and I am full of admiration for her. Can't believe Trump is going to ease the lockdown and send people back to work! What a moron! This really is history in the making, and with the wide range of reactions from governments around the world you just know that some of them are going to get it so wrong. I feel really proud to be a Kiwi at this moment, and think we are in the best place in the world to deal with what is about to unfold. I have just been to Supercheap, BNT etc and stocked up on parts. I'm actually looking forward to getting some solid time to spend on the projects without interruptions!
  3. Hey Gordon, I can answer that one mate. Ballast resistor does not care which wire you put at which end. So terminal "A" going to coil + is correct. Terminal "B" goes to ignition +12v, ie. the ignition switch. Some people fuse this, I never do. You run the risk of melting the wire if you ever short it out. But more likely to give problems if you run it through a fusebox. Manufacturers have done both over the years, although I would say most are fused now. Also, if there is a spare spade terminal on the starter solenoid, this is the "ballast bypass" and can be connected straight to the coil + or terminal A in addition to the above wiring. This gives the coil full battery power while cranking, instead of the 5-6 volts it would otherwise receive via the resistor, and gives it a nice fat spark while cranking. But don't be tempted to bypass the ballast resistor permanently, you will burn out the points in a very short space of time. Hope this makes sense P.S. I am doing my last run into town this morning for some parts before NZ goes into full lockdown mode. Lots of work I can do on the Mk1 while this is happening. Conrad
  4. yep the Astra pump is a good option too, a little shorter and fatter than the Merc pump.
  5. Mount it under the floor somewhere, and just put a little removable panel/access hatch for top ups?
  6. it is 350H x 140W x 80D. You can mount it pretty much anywhere, I have seen race cars with them mounted in the boot! Due to hydraulic fluid being fairly incompressible there is little to no lag. Unlike rear mount turbos! …………..
  7. No the reservoir is the black part on the top half, the bottom half is the pump and electronics. Really easy to mount too, one M6 bolt into the mount on the side, and the base locates in a rubber grommet.
  8. Yep they have been around since the late 90's, although most new cars now do away with the hydraulics and have an electric rack fitted. You just need a +12 volt feed to trigger it. These pumps are normally triggered by the alternator exciter feed (warning light terminal) so that once the engine is running the power steering kicks in. There is a downside to this though. If you throw a fanbelt, the alternator will stop working, and so will the power steering - not nice! Hence why I just fed mine from the ignition switch, so once the ign. key is in the ON position, the PS is working. There are other pumps similar to this that are available, although I have found this one to be the most compact, and easiest to wire up.
  9. Hi Gordon, what about an electro-hydraulic pump, to power your existing steering rack? Basically the same setup as I have just done on the Tranny. You can mount the pump anywhere, and the Merc A Class pump which I used (made by VDO) is dead simple to wire up, only 3 wires; ground, +12v and trigger wire. Just 2 hoses, pressure feed and return. I tore this one out of a dead A Class at Pickapart, I think it was $50 or thereabouts.
  10. good work so far Gordon, you are a very dedicated man! Can I ask why you have opted to go for manual steering VS. power steering, especially when you already have a PS rack? Speaking from a Transit van owning point of view (factory fitted with quite heavy steering) replacing the manual box with a PS version was the best upgrade I have done on my van. Made it so much more tolerable on a near daily basis
  11. yep, definitely wouldn't pass cert now! It's pretty ugly, but is strong enough and won't fail. I will probably replace it and the whole pedalbox at some point. It has an old declaration, pre LVV and as long as I have this piece of paper with me when I go for a WOF it isn't problem! The steering setup was MUCH scarier than this - it had a Falcon power steering box fitted, which operated the wrong way for a Transit. So it had a reverser gearbox fitted to the steering shaft to change the rotation to the input shaft of the steering box ! There was freeplay in both the gearbox and steering box, and the chassis rail to which it was attached would visibly flex when you applied steering input while stationary! If you look at my build thread I have taken some before and after pics of these parts. It was quite awful to drive because of this, would wander around quite a bit, and very sloppy steering. The new power steering box setup should eliminate all of this scary shit
  12. A few pics of the new exhaust, which I forgot to post yesterday. Collectors feed into 2 1/2" diameter pipes, which feed into the first muffler. Then it's a single 3" all the way back, with a resonator just behind the rear axle. All 304 stainless, and TIG welded by someone with much better skills than me! Probably a bit overkill for the 300 or so horses, but who doesn't like big diameter stainless? ! Discuss:
  13. Completed the steering today. Powered up the pump, and it seems to work well. Pump is a little bit noisy, it had a "jacket" which was wrapped around the pump, no doubt for sound deadening. I might refit it if it proves annoying. At the moment I have a Capri steering wheel fitted temporarily. But I think I will find a "Springalex" wheel, like they used to fit to the Mk1 Escort rally cars, and install that instead. The column is all welded up and bolted in too, complete with later "Tibbe" style ignition key, which is about a million times more secure than the original setup Discuss here:
  14. Took the van into work. Removed all of the old exhaust system, in preparation for a new 2 into 1 stainless system. Fitted the exhaust headers since last update too. Refitted the rebuilt diff head; have swapped out the 3.9 gears for 3.5, and rebuilt the LSD. Have welded in the mounting plate for the steering box. Made a plate to fill in the steering column hole which had been cut out to accommodate a column shift. Will re-use the original Mk1 bulkhead grommet, along with a modified Mk5 steering column. This was fairly easy, I cut off the top bracket and moved it up the column about 30mm, and welded on another bracket the same lower down which bolts through the pedal box. I cut out the master spline on the column so it will accept a Capri/Escort type steering wheel, or even a Mk1/Mk2 Transit wheel. I have wired in the Mk5 column switches and ignition switch (with new Tibbe key and barrel) to the Mk1 wiring loom. Attachments
  15. nice work! I like the Hillman front indicators! Going to hang some Super Oscars off the front?