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About Matteybean

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  1. Amazing work mate! Really enjoying your build thread. Nice skills keep up the good work
  2. Ok so plan didnt work. I was unable to get the polyurethane to bond to the cleaned transmission steel mount. This photo was taken after I had handled it abit hence why dirty. I noticed it was starting to come apart when I went to drill the cross member over 10mm Anyway that sucked. I found a crowd in Auckland that makes custom rubber mounts "for a fraction of the cost of getting a new one" and was a 3 week turn around due to the slow bondage. Anyway $125 nzd and ones on the way from Kentucky USA. ETA first week november. And looking at this photo it explains why the driveshaft was touching the transmission was meant to sit up higher. Hooked up tacho in engine bay ready to get idle sorted. I left enough cable incase I decide to run this. It's an old Smith's tachometer. I've also fixed the wiring issue there was a burnt 12v ignition feed behind dash so once I replaced that and couple rogue fuses it all works again. Just waiting on transmission mount and should be away laughing.
  3. Am still itching to work on this haha.. hopefully some time next year I'll be back on to this. Anyway went into storage to take the tacho off to use for the crown. Thought I'd take some pics.. looks exactly the same it did when I put it in few years ago.. with "CUNT" still shining thru a coverup where my brothers ex girlfriend wrote him a message when they broke up. Bless her.
  4. Very cool wagon I reckon half the current height will be bout right
  5. Got over the wiring side of things so put the gearbox mount back in and went for another hoon. It's all going pretty well and ready for its first voyage to gas station. The driveshaft seems to skim the passenger some of the chassis so I'm going to center it as opposite side has about 20mm clearance. It it's still abit close I'll put a 10mm steel spacer under mount to lift it slightly Re drill gearbox cross member to centerline the gearbox/cross member. Put bonnet on. Cruise. Wof booked for next Saturday. Fuck the tail lights.
  6. Cheers bro. Annoying how it was working a week ago haha. I've got the dash off so I'm going to start at plug and work back from there. Took it for another hoon tonight with the new gearbox mount ohh man so good. Got the up to 60 km on street few hard braking sessions and all working well. worked a treat that liquid polyurethane. I'm going to put the bonnet back on and go fill up with gas squirt some moreys upper cylinder cleaner in with it, pump the tyres up and try the open roads tomorrow! Wof re booked for next Saturday now.
  7. Yeah I did em on a cold motor because I couldnt get it going. I think the problem was breather hoses on block looped hence the gasket blow out/oil past rings
  8. I had this booked in for a warrant tomorrow at 4pm but having more electrical issues haha. Suggestions welcome. The interior cluster lights, center console lights and tail lights are no longer working. They were working few days ago because I got some replacement bulbs and hooked up the number plate lights. Anyway a run down of what I've looked at. Fuses in drivers kick panel - they are all fine. Headlights work when using switch and cluster has power to it clock works, high beam light turns on when dip switch pressed. The tail light parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights all working as they should just not the lights. 1 side new bulb other was fine. All the hazards at all 4 corners work which is why I'm thinking must be something basic. I removed the cluster to make sure it was all plugged in properly. I've got a spare light switch which I've checked for continuity as per manual so I no the switch works. Current state of affairs Thanks
  9. My brother came over and gave me a hand we got motor back In and it ran like a fucking dream. Turns out the breather hoses on the block were looped which would explain the blowing sump gaskets and oil pushing past the rings. Lovely. It started up first pop. Went for another hoon. Gearbox mount is fucked. It's now completely split and the when driving the driveshaft smashes into shit cuz the arse end is free balling... I knew it was on it's way out/completely fucked and struggled to find anything when I last had it out. I decided I'd have a crack at making my own mount using liquid polyurethane 2 part with a shore hardness of 45. Cleaned em up Got it lined up using the bolts Used some cardboard to block off the edges This is what I used Mixed it 1:1 I had previously gone around the outside of the carboard and mount with silicone to close off any holes/gaps and veeeerry slowly poured it in to prevent any air stuck in it. Let it cure for 24 hours de mould it and chuck in oven for 6 hours at 50degree and should be away laughing.
  10. Sumps all gooed up and torqued back on fuck I hope it doesnt leak. Did a bolt check of the motor and decided to paint the front bits of the alternator I've marked a reference point in the electric choke housing and rotated it 2 clicks clockwise and see how it goes once I fire it up. Before I put the motor back I'm going to check and make sure all the lights/indicators are still working/replace bulbs, general bolt check all round and put motor back in tomorrow/Sunday Gasket goo says wait 24 hours so I'd better wait that Atleast. I dont want to pull it back out again.
  11. Rememeber to change your sump gasket before installing motor into your ms65 because the cross member is so fucking big its impossible to do on the car. Yes I tried.. 1st attempt I lifted motor enough to undo sump bolts, drop steering and remove sump - I used a new cork gasket and re fitted without any luck. This time round I'm moving the whole motor to seal it up good and while motor out tidy up a few bits in engine bay Now the engines stone cold the choke is at this position, I'm going to mark the casing and use this as a reference point to rotate the eletric choke housing a couple clicks until I get it right. I will need to play around with the cold idle speed screw but once i put motor back in and all going well no leaks with sump I should be able to get it pretty right. Getting closer.
  12. Alright mumma never raised no quitter after alot of perseverance and some fresh eyes weve got it going! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas. So I had the ignition side of the wiring all re done with new relay. The dizzy cap was giving shit spark to #1 Bought a new dizzy cap and rotor Took all plugs out cleaned up still no go. Turns out a rogue plug wasnt giving consistent spark so replaced all plugs and checked resistence in the leads which all were fine. It would start up fine but when getting warm it would start to run like a bag of dicks.. over fueling and smoking like no bodies business.. Started looking at carb videos thinking I would be replacing the jets/adjusting floats I noticed in the videos their choke was fully open at 180 degrees and mine wasnt... no where close Heres a pic of when the engine is warm and the electric choke fully open.. Pretty sure suppose to be more like this anyway after rotating the cap when engine was warm to keep it fully open it ran great! Few trips up and down the street no hesitation or bogging down and buggar all smoke!! Drove up and down the road half a dozen times noticed temp guage rising so put it back in shed to give it a once over - boiled thermostat it didnt open so I'll grab another tomorrow. Sump still leaks so I'll need to remove motor to goo up sump gasket proper. Then wof
  13. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Auckland who is good with old cars? This 4m has defeated me I've tried everything and I can't get it running properly. Everything is new on it and I can't figure it out so it's time someone else does. Cheers
  14. Cars still running like crap.. ive set the carburetor to factory 4m specs but the carbs for a 5m. Idle and revs allgood but under load it really struggles and smokes like fuck. Managed to get couple drives up and down the road.. sump appears to still be leaking which is a real pain because the huge fuck off cross members in these crowns give no clearance to access all the bolts... think I'm going to have to pull the motor . Buggar Picked up a 6 pin voltage regulator off a mate of mine that came from his old ke35.. I assumed toyota would of used the same.. yep I was right. Well that sorts out the low 12.8v while car running issue Didnt fix the issue with how the cars running though..
  15. Cars still running like complete shit Did a compression test came up alright. Plugs 2 and 4 were abit oily but maybe from rocker cover that use to leak I've since replaced gasket and I think when I checked plugs last time might of dripped in.. Anyway I'll start from the top and go over it all including checking the electric side.. 12.9 volts could be the issue.. Anyway I will persevere..