Matteybean

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Everything posted by Matteybean

  1. Welded on an exhaust hanger tonight and did a bolt check, everything's buttoned up and ready for wof re check tomorrow. See what wof man says.. turns out those red springs are lowering springs.. and completely slammed the crown. Juuuust under 100mm to cross member
  2. I ended up removing the passenger upper and lower control arms and I've replaced all the bushes including swaybar. I picked up my pitman arm looks good My inner tie rod also arrived. Before I removed the old one I marked where to wind it in till and matched it up with this one. All back in and steering feels really nice now you beauty. I've wired up my park lights and theyre working mint now, replaced a couple of blown bulbs in the rear too. Tomorrow I'll weld in a center exhaust hanger and should be ready for the re check friday afternoon.
  3. Bushes turned up so I started chucking em in. Unfortunately I couldnt get other side in will go somewhere and get it pressed in tomorrow. Got the lower arm bush in too and installed it back in car along with new swaybar bushes Black I just removed reds came with the car. They are slightly less in diameter and a coil less? Thought I'd chuck em in see what happens Thanks for looking
  4. I got a spring which works mint. I had a look under the car and saw a new puddle of transmission fluid Fuck! Front seal is leaking. I couldnt tell before because the sump gasket was leaking I thought it was just the sump fuck So out it came. I took the front transmission bolts off 1 at a time and cleaned up/siliconed and torqued back up. Bellhousing back on All in all wasnt too bad I had some good help we had it in and out in an afternoon. No more leaks! So I took it for a wof... All in all not too bad. I knew there was play in pitman arm from my mate showing methe day before when taking out trans. Few bulbs, rewire park lights to switch, I've removed the pitman arm and dropped it off to sas in east tamaki for rebuild $180+. Inner tie rod has been ordered along with superpro upper and lower control arm bushes and swaybar bushes. Chuck an exhaust mount on and I'm ready for beach hop. Easy. I started pulling shit apart. Only the drivers side control arm bushes need to be replaced for wof but I ordered bushes for both sides see how I go for time. Thanks for looking
  5. All going well I'll be there. Took crown for wof few ball joints to replace and some bulbs
  6. After fucking around with the carb and doing some diagnostics it was deemed the new Ebay chinese 200 dollar delivered to my door carburetor is fucked. Who would of thought I switched back to the old carburetor and it started first pop Red wire is starter wire for starting at engine bay. Idled mint. Sounded mint so went for a hoon and ran like a dream. Got back home and transmission fluid was pissing out of a rubber hose that had fully split! Lucky was only on my street. I installed my new Fenix oil cooler with new hoses shortly after. I also noticed the rear output shaft where it met the driveshaft was leaking so decided to fix that while I had transmission drained. Repco has a listing and had one in stock. Bit of a bitch to get out I used an oil seal puller. Got it out in the end. After a quick search the easiest way to install the new one was to use a 50mm pvc cap or the likes of (I used a 50x40 bush as its thicker) and tapped it in with a hammer. Once back in I used the same method to put the dust and retainer. Driveshaft back on and buttoned up and re filled with fluid. It was running really well so i drove it to my mates place and that's where it all started to go wrong.. I guess all the cranking over till the battery dead has killed the battery and its lost its charge so I had to get jump started to go home. On the way home it suddenly started to loose all power for a split second but it was getting worse. I managed to get off the motorway but it ended up dying in a pretty rough area in takanini and with the battery flat and it getting dark it was decided I'd get a tow truck... The battery was still under warranty so I was able to swap it out. Got a much bigger 530cca battery this time round When installing the battery i quickly discovered the accelerator pump on the carb was missing the spring and the split pin. Which would explain why it lost power. I'm hoping any spring in the same diameter and length will do the trick but will check Getting closer.
  7. Transmission mount turned up. Chucked it in Motor seems to be surging at idle so will check all vacuum lines etc again and doesnt like to idle under 1000 (tacho may be out abit) it's an oldie
  8. Amazing work mate! Really enjoying your build thread. Nice skills keep up the good work
  9. Ok so plan didnt work. I was unable to get the polyurethane to bond to the cleaned transmission steel mount. This photo was taken after I had handled it abit hence why dirty. I noticed it was starting to come apart when I went to drill the cross member over 10mm Anyway that sucked. I found a crowd in Auckland that makes custom rubber mounts "for a fraction of the cost of getting a new one" and was a 3 week turn around due to the slow bondage. Anyway $125 nzd and ones on the way from Kentucky USA. ETA first week november. And looking at this photo it explains why the driveshaft was touching the transmission was meant to sit up higher. Hooked up tacho in engine bay ready to get idle sorted. I left enough cable incase I decide to run this. It's an old Smith's tachometer. I've also fixed the wiring issue there was a burnt 12v ignition feed behind dash so once I replaced that and couple rogue fuses it all works again. Just waiting on transmission mount and should be away laughing.
  10. Am still itching to work on this haha.. hopefully some time next year I'll be back on to this. Anyway went into storage to take the tacho off to use for the crown. Thought I'd take some pics.. looks exactly the same it did when I put it in few years ago.. with "CUNT" still shining thru a coverup where my brothers ex girlfriend wrote him a message when they broke up. Bless her.
  11. Very cool wagon I reckon half the current height will be bout right
  12. Got over the wiring side of things so put the gearbox mount back in and went for another hoon. It's all going pretty well and ready for its first voyage to gas station. The driveshaft seems to skim the passenger some of the chassis so I'm going to center it as opposite side has about 20mm clearance. It it's still abit close I'll put a 10mm steel spacer under mount to lift it slightly Re drill gearbox cross member to centerline the gearbox/cross member. Put bonnet on. Cruise. Wof booked for next Saturday. Fuck the tail lights.
  13. Cheers bro. Annoying how it was working a week ago haha. I've got the dash off so I'm going to start at plug and work back from there. Took it for another hoon tonight with the new gearbox mount ohh man so good. Got the up to 60 km on street few hard braking sessions and all working well. worked a treat that liquid polyurethane. I'm going to put the bonnet back on and go fill up with gas squirt some moreys upper cylinder cleaner in with it, pump the tyres up and try the open roads tomorrow! Wof re booked for next Saturday now.
  14. Yeah I did em on a cold motor because I couldnt get it going. I think the problem was breather hoses on block looped hence the gasket blow out/oil past rings
  15. I had this booked in for a warrant tomorrow at 4pm but having more electrical issues haha. Suggestions welcome. The interior cluster lights, center console lights and tail lights are no longer working. They were working few days ago because I got some replacement bulbs and hooked up the number plate lights. Anyway a run down of what I've looked at. Fuses in drivers kick panel - they are all fine. Headlights work when using switch and cluster has power to it clock works, high beam light turns on when dip switch pressed. The tail light parking lights, brake lights, reverse lights all working as they should just not the lights. 1 side new bulb other was fine. All the hazards at all 4 corners work which is why I'm thinking must be something basic. I removed the cluster to make sure it was all plugged in properly. I've got a spare light switch which I've checked for continuity as per manual so I no the switch works. Current state of affairs Thanks
  16. My brother came over and gave me a hand we got motor back In and it ran like a fucking dream. Turns out the breather hoses on the block were looped which would explain the blowing sump gaskets and oil pushing past the rings. Lovely. It started up first pop. Went for another hoon. Gearbox mount is fucked. It's now completely split and the when driving the driveshaft smashes into shit cuz the arse end is free balling... I knew it was on it's way out/completely fucked and struggled to find anything when I last had it out. I decided I'd have a crack at making my own mount using liquid polyurethane 2 part with a shore hardness of 45. Cleaned em up Got it lined up using the bolts Used some cardboard to block off the edges This is what I used Mixed it 1:1 I had previously gone around the outside of the carboard and mount with silicone to close off any holes/gaps and veeeerry slowly poured it in to prevent any air stuck in it. Let it cure for 24 hours de mould it and chuck in oven for 6 hours at 50degree and should be away laughing.
  17. Sumps all gooed up and torqued back on fuck I hope it doesnt leak. Did a bolt check of the motor and decided to paint the front bits of the alternator I've marked a reference point in the electric choke housing and rotated it 2 clicks clockwise and see how it goes once I fire it up. Before I put the motor back I'm going to check and make sure all the lights/indicators are still working/replace bulbs, general bolt check all round and put motor back in tomorrow/Sunday Gasket goo says wait 24 hours so I'd better wait that Atleast. I dont want to pull it back out again.
  18. Rememeber to change your sump gasket before installing motor into your ms65 because the cross member is so fucking big its impossible to do on the car. Yes I tried.. 1st attempt I lifted motor enough to undo sump bolts, drop steering and remove sump - I used a new cork gasket and re fitted without any luck. This time round I'm moving the whole motor to seal it up good and while motor out tidy up a few bits in engine bay Now the engines stone cold the choke is at this position, I'm going to mark the casing and use this as a reference point to rotate the eletric choke housing a couple clicks until I get it right. I will need to play around with the cold idle speed screw but once i put motor back in and all going well no leaks with sump I should be able to get it pretty right. Getting closer.
  19. Alright mumma never raised no quitter after alot of perseverance and some fresh eyes weve got it going! Thanks to everyone who offered ideas. So I had the ignition side of the wiring all re done with new relay. The dizzy cap was giving shit spark to #1 Bought a new dizzy cap and rotor Took all plugs out cleaned up still no go. Turns out a rogue plug wasnt giving consistent spark so replaced all plugs and checked resistence in the leads which all were fine. It would start up fine but when getting warm it would start to run like a bag of dicks.. over fueling and smoking like no bodies business.. Started looking at carb videos thinking I would be replacing the jets/adjusting floats I noticed in the videos their choke was fully open at 180 degrees and mine wasnt... no where close Heres a pic of when the engine is warm and the electric choke fully open.. Pretty sure suppose to be more like this anyway after rotating the cap when engine was warm to keep it fully open it ran great! Few trips up and down the street no hesitation or bogging down and buggar all smoke!! Drove up and down the road half a dozen times noticed temp guage rising so put it back in shed to give it a once over - boiled thermostat it didnt open so I'll grab another tomorrow. Sump still leaks so I'll need to remove motor to goo up sump gasket proper. Then wof
  20. Can anyone recommend a mechanic in Auckland who is good with old cars? This 4m has defeated me I've tried everything and I can't get it running properly. Everything is new on it and I can't figure it out so it's time someone else does. Cheers
  21. Cars still running like crap.. ive set the carburetor to factory 4m specs but the carbs for a 5m. Idle and revs allgood but under load it really struggles and smokes like fuck. Managed to get couple drives up and down the road.. sump appears to still be leaking which is a real pain because the huge fuck off cross members in these crowns give no clearance to access all the bolts... think I'm going to have to pull the motor . Buggar Picked up a 6 pin voltage regulator off a mate of mine that came from his old ke35.. I assumed toyota would of used the same.. yep I was right. Well that sorts out the low 12.8v while car running issue Didnt fix the issue with how the cars running though..
  22. Cars still running like complete shit Did a compression test came up alright. Plugs 2 and 4 were abit oily but maybe from rocker cover that use to leak I've since replaced gasket and I think when I checked plugs last time might of dripped in.. Anyway I'll start from the top and go over it all including checking the electric side.. 12.9 volts could be the issue.. Anyway I will persevere..
  23. Had a productive weekend Got the headlights working with dip switch got horn up and running and removed the ridiculous speaker boxes on the doors . There was some left over vinyl so i hole sawed and patched over Not perfect but 100x better than previously Treated myself to some hydraulic wheel dollies so handy for small garages Cars running like a bag of dicks not sure why..
  24. So today I started it up again with no exhaust leaks so that's a success! No leaks from sump anymore so that's a win too! Hooned up and down the road beautifully Unfortunately I only seem to be getting 12.6 volts everywhere with the car running so have got another alternator I'll swap out. Battery is on trickle charge ill try again tomorrow during daylight
  25. Ill eventually get around to having a play around with this grill and facelift headlights Looking for another pre facelift crown badge and toyota if anyone has them