Jump to content

Ashkellybarr

Members
  • Content Count

    489
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1,081 Excellent

About Ashkellybarr

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Converted

  • Local Area
    Auckland

Recent Profile Visitors

1,212 profile views
  1. 3rd for 2zz! Friend has one in his aw11, highly recommend
  2. Gotta start thinking about rad and intercooler soon
  3. Apart again, loaded up, ready for fab hopefully next time it’ll be the 4wd towing the drift hack and not the other way around
  4. Awesome thank you!!
  5. would you know witch colour is witch? Yeah if you could off HPtuners that would be mint. yeah I could do a mix of brake light and rpm output from ECU witch should be pretty fail safe.
  6. Cheers, got photos? I’ll probably ended up needing this also
  7. Hey OS team helping a mate get his LS1 swap using link g4 in non LS chassis. its 95% done and ready to go but there’s a couple things I’m struggling to get info for. 1. alternator wiring. Google comes up with loads of yanks using truck alternators with different wiring. it’s a two wire from early 2000’s como so I’m assuming one wire just needs a resistor and switched off ign? 2. Injector info, found the injectors are standard ls1 bosch 0 280 155 931 but can’t find dead time info, most US posts guys use random info from bosch part numbers that are si
  8. There’s a Honda tool on Ali express that can be made to work. Bolts where the cam caps go. been told a small amount of compressed air down the spark plug hole will help hold the values in with the head on too
  9. Little bit stuck cause getting motor mounts done and plumbing brake and fuel lines is all good and well. However they all run down the inner drivers side chassis rail. unfortunity this leaves bugger all room for exhaust manifold and turbo down pipe incl clearance to meet ver requirements. i have a feeling there’s gonna be a significant amount of time and money spent here. good news though, if I get fuel running to it and finish the ecu wiring there’s no reason I can’t get it started now I’ve got a manifold made
  10. Alright.. all confessions, the motors not mounted. Just sitting on strops. how ever the Gbox member is done and bolted it, with the box level that’s pretty close to where the motor will sit. unfortunitly the factory mounts on the chassis are waaay to far forward. And actually interfere with the thermostat housing and alternator. after talking to a cert guy and couple other onto it guys I’ve though best to leave it to someone else. Bloke down the rd does nothing but motor sport stuff and said 1/2 to a full days work, so I’ll leave it to him when he’s got time in a couple w
  11. These different depth mount holes are a real pain in the ass ye old battery lathe saved the day
  12. What’s the go with welding a plate to the chassis rail as a base to build an engine mount off? whats the guide lines for size and if it maybe must have a fold around the rail so it’s not just welded on one face? i had a look under engine conversion and suspension systems sections but couldnt find anything about the chassis mounts. Factory location On the chassis is to far forward and needs to be removed to clear thermostat and moved PS pump. can see motor mount location in yellow i would be happy with something bolt on but there’s no holes for access inside the
×
×
  • Create New...