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Showing content with the highest reputation on 25/08/20 in all areas

  1. Well it worked pretty good! Only real defects are on the face with machine allowance. The volume of the chill block didnt really seem to matter so I think going forward I'll size them to at least 100% of the volume that needs chilling.
    32 points
  2. Finally got my old 1950s drill press finished. Had to make up this small plate to mount the toggle switch. Please with how it turned out, looks the part. all wired up thanks to my mate Darrell, and ready to go for another 70 years.
    10 points
  3. Spent the last few Weekends making a new front lower cross member and Radiator support bracketry. Radiator is a 1954 Chevrolet style aluminium one. It is 2-3 inches further forward now, and now the bonnet doesn't quite close. Should be easy enough to fix with some light trimming. Fitting a transmission cooler and a large enough battery is going to be fun.
    8 points
  4. Basically I find it pretty hard to justify spending $thousands on one off parts. I might as well spend that money on a tool I can use for lots of parts. Example. To pay someone to make regular patterns for just the crankcase (MDF cnc) was going to be $13K. To pay someone to print just the crankcase patterns was $10K. So instead I bought a massive printer for $10K and printed every pattern for the engine for about $1000 material.
    6 points
  5. Real quick clip. The "Yeah" is Miss 13 recording.
    5 points
  6. Possibly on some smaller parts like the supercharger or waterpump. Maaaaybe! I dont know the cost of Aluminium printing now but when I was doing SS printing it was about $1000/kg. The sump/crankcase are around 20-30kg and would have to be done in multiple pieces and welded together. This camtree part is 5kg and cost $100 to pour. Means once its right they are super cheap. A rough estimate on the cost to do this part: Modeling and pattern design - 250hrs Pattern Printing - $50 material Pattern /corebox prep - 50hrs & $100 material Sand Mould makin
    5 points
  7. So the jaycar module died, I got another and it didn't work out of the box. I did what I should have in the first place and orders the right bosh module Wired it all up and it works like it should
    5 points
  8. It drives really nice now and brakes are epic. Who would have thought. The tidy bonnet is lovely. The top needs wheeled back and etched but its bloody good to be fair. Next phase is reset the leaves 2in. Have ordered new bushes for these, and some lower control arm bushes so then the whole front is lush and ready for another wheel alignment
    4 points
  9. H100S engine is in desperate need of a rebuild First thought was seize, but didn't really make sense as it didn't get warm or anything, still pulled the top end. Found it had a new base gasket, 2 loose head bolts and the washers from the other 2 were missing, lol yeah I'd say someone has been in here before! Piston isn't scored, rings look sweet, cylinder is pretty much mint besides needing a good bit of porting... Remembered it had been making a bit of a nasty noise inside the flywheel, maybe the issue is in there Lol fuck, the nut and washer
    3 points
  10. Results are in on the downsized runners.
    3 points
  11. Rotors I am getting are Multistud, will be going 5 stud down the track as well (looking at Rotor options for my AP racing calipers in 5stud or getting a new hat made as they are two piece) Also more then happy to drill holes for 4 stud if I need to anyway :p https://www.apcautotech.com/part-detail/12146032?year=1999&make=mitsubishi&model=eclipse The same rotor is listed for the Galant vr4 due to the multistud Could also go for the fancy ones but they are 100 more and tbh I am happy with factory style https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4417746&cc=
    3 points
  12. excellent news on the good casting result. have made many patterns and tried to get castings to work in various sizes and levels of complexity before and i know how hard/frustrating it can be so great work man. the foundry you're using look like they know their shit too which always helps.
    3 points
  13. @Truenotch taught me how to upload videos so i guess theyre self explanatory. This motor has been sold, im on to that other 13b bridgeport i got ripped off with. Im passing time until my panhard rod is built and i can completely sign off the diff!!! Enjoy
    3 points
  14. Mods, please feel free to take this down if not appropriate. Hi Everyone, I mentioned this in the DIY thread, but it's open to everyone here. I do all the estimating etc for Unity Scaffolding here in Auckland. I can help you out with scaffolds large and small, or simple roof edge protection. I can't do it free, but I can give OSGCs the same rates that the big boys get. If anyone here is a builder/painter looking for scaff on their projects, we're Sitewise accredited and are currently doing all kinds of commercial and residential work. Happy to work out good deals for y
    3 points
  15. Got the next one ready. Now have 4 chill blocks, 4 risers, 2 main in-gates and 2 small gates. One of the chill blocks didnt pack very well so we'll see what happens there. The sand around that area is pretty thin so theres a chance itll get super hot and fall apart. Bigger problem is I had an issue with the sand strength for some reason and it cracked when bolting up. Hopefully it doesnt fall apart when filled!
    3 points
  16. The yellow bonnet wasnt flash in person, the skin is mint but the frame has rusted away around the whole front edge and down the sides some..so it flaps within its self. It’s fixable but I’m not interested right now. i ended up winning the auction for the tidy-as one so will get it this weekend. i had an unholy cunt of a time trying to get the pitman arm off. Broke my pitman puller and several tools along the way, rooted my jack handle from wailing on it with a hammer trying to bash it off the spline. The go was taking the whole drag link off which frees up half the battle and
    3 points
  17. Sorted out a lot of bits I need for the next stages, good to find most of them and get things sorted. Crawled under the back end for a look at the leaky diff... I know the brake lines need replaced, that'll happen as soon as the wheel alignment is done. Also dragged the trans into the garage and inspected it, noticed the rear mount was perished so ordered another one, pretty common item, carried in SCA and Repco... And pulled the diff cover off for a cleanup. Needs cleaned, painted and dents taken out of rim... After wire brushing the cover, bolts and drain plug, I just brush pa
    2 points
  18. That's the problem though, no one has one that goes
    2 points
  19. Yeh think may pursue the big tapered idea. The 45's look decent in some places. But not so keen how jumps around so much. Kinda cool how can see it brick wall soon as run out of airflow in the runners. Someone bring said beams here and will dyno it for a small fee
    2 points
  20. Nice! The results are basically as expected. Looks like a big tapered inlet has some potential? Cool to see the power climbing and staying level right up to 9k. We really need to get a Beams on that dyno... I’m curious to see the difference between 45-55mm on a 2L engine.
    2 points
  21. All I can tell you is feed it. Put in way more risers then you think and make the Ingate how the foundry tell you, apart from that it really is a case of just trying it and seeing what happens. Maybe use bigger filters thn you think too? Each foundryman is going to have their own way of doing things and most of the time, if they're any good, they'll know what they're on about.
    2 points
  22. They know what theyre doing so that does help. Usually the answer is "you could change X Y and Z and that might help, or it might make it worse you just gotta try it." One of the awesome things with the foundries over here is they are pouring 24/7. I just drive up and take the mould right to the furnace and fill it up straight away! NZ wasnt quite like that!
    2 points
  23. Do head gaskets come in 5 packs?
    1 point
  24. I used others before PPG and Spies, just costs twice as much and for the hobbyist I don't think you gain much going to the baller stuff. Ask the guy at the counter? they wont fuck you around. Whats are you doing? going over epoxy to block for top coat? pretty sure you want this one if you actually need the high build side of things. Its super thick shit, they have another carmaster one that is thinner. https://www.protec.com.au/images/uploads/tech_data_sheets/CP-6120_CARMASTER_2_PACK_HI_BUILD_PRIMER_FILLER_Carmaster_Primer_16-05-16.pdf
    1 point
  25. Bit of action...que cutting and welding montage: Mate it with a drift trike: Boom! One axle setup ready to rip!
    1 point
  26. So the only issue was the back face. It looks like a crack. But what I think happened is the tapered 'disk' type chill blocks have no where to expand to. They are also in really thin sand. So when the chill block started doing its thing and getting hot it expanded, cracking the sand and pushing it into the face that hadnt solidified. The front did the same looking at the sand mould after the pour but it wasnt on a flat face so it didnt matter. May look at changing it to more of a boss like the others.
    1 point
  27. Pretty sure a cam drive isn’t going to have a ‘hunting tooth’ in it?
    1 point
  28. I was doing that kinda stuff in oz in the early 90s. Done a f**k ton of old minitrucks and drag cars in that style. Long live the 'heartbeat' pinstripe, palm trees and checker boards lol.
    1 point
  29. Na he is sold on this flat 6 thing - commer ts3 it is then lol
    1 point
  30. @jackeo21 hooked me up with the correct AC bracket Made the call to purchase this other HKS AC thingy from yahoo last night after eyeballing it daily for a month or so. Looks like a big job
    1 point
  31. Never rule out a failure because a part is "somewhat new"
    1 point
  32. Had a productive weekend Got the headlights working with dip switch got horn up and running and removed the ridiculous speaker boxes on the doors . There was some left over vinyl so i hole sawed and patched over Not perfect but 100x better than previously Treated myself to some hydraulic wheel dollies so handy for small garages Cars running like a bag of dicks not sure why..
    1 point
  33. Hi guys this is my 1973 datsun 260c h230 that my grand father got brand new. I've had it now for about 6 years and kept it stored away for the right time to start rebuilding it.
    1 point
  34. Fixed that issue with pic #2! 350mm was not able to locate the smaller one new.
    1 point
  35. Bit of a random project. Always wanted one of these. So brought it on an impulse buy when it was on sale at super cheap auto last week. Problem was it's useless just flopping around on top of the bench. I tried all sorts of Mickey Mouse ways of holding it down with clamps etc, none of them were successful. So I decided that a purpose built stand was in order: Hmmmm...what colour should I paint it? I know...red??? Yip, red was a good choice... Location wise, this is a dead space in the shed that is of no use for anything else, so I stuck it there. Iv
    1 point
  36. How to be a nerd, Part 7 I've always loved the NSX-R steering wheel/horn button combo, and have long wanted to pop one into a DC2R as homage to the original Type R. Since I had my first one, all those years back. Anyway, these steering wheels are actually still available, as is the horn button and the trim ring. The steering wheel price is $1440.00. Yeah um. Maybe not. The trim and horn button, while expensive (for what they are) don't break the bank, so I hatched a plan. 2000 Honda Integra Type RX-1060-Edit by Richard Opie, on Flickr Here, you can see I bought a conte
    1 point
  37. So the plan is to add 4 risers to the thick top areas. Then add chill blocks for the bosses in the middle. Couldnt find info on sizing a chill block so Im going to go with making one set total the mass of the boss and the other set twice the mass. See if they are any different. Also doubled the ingate area (back to what its meant to be in theory) and made it feed from both sides.
    1 point
  38. Interior/Engine bay finished off: New Driveshaft done. so tiny!: I was lucky enough to be able to borrow a spit which made doing the underside possible. But what a mess it ended up making stripping the paint/underseal. Before: After: Really happy so far, looks a lot tidier.
    1 point
  39. Gn125 cam chains are cheap. go on, put GN parts in it
    1 point
  40. More cleaning up bits, just scraped off any old gasket then some solvent and scotchbrite, messy but easy, also cleaned up any loose bits with cotton buds... shouted myself some new dowels and popped on the gaskets... and heads loosely in place, I'll torque em up and clean up the intake next...
    1 point
  41. Ooh, update ? Nah, clickbait. Was tidying stuff out at my dads & found an aerial I had on loads of cars back in London. I probably bought it in about 86 as it was on my Imps. It also lived on two Granadas, the Consul, at least two Cortinas and ultimately, for that period of my life, the Marina I used as a getaway car when I headed for Wales. That got scrapped coz I had to crash that car, it but I kept the twig 'safe'in a damp box in a rat infested shed. Spent time messing about with it today and now it lives again on the Hilux. /Circle of life /pic Catch
    1 point
  42. done most of the testing over the last 2 days. going to take awhile to put all the info together. found some interesting stuff. the peaches didn't do as bad as you would think haha
    1 point
  43. The trunk is coming together great, The Chevy supports come down beautifully onto the pinch weld around the Lexus rear wheel wells. I need to purchase the tail pan replacement panel from EMS. Plug Welded in place. The 85 litre Petrol tank doesn't quite fit. due to the trunk hinges. But like most of the Lexus, is full of rust. So smaller aluminium tank will likely be made to fit between the strut towers. And seam welded the parcel trays together. Couple of filler panels to be made around the strut tops. Back seat still fits. It just sticks up into t
    1 point
  44. spent well over 200 hours on this recently. Have had the body on and off countless times. Trying to get it down low enough. The sills are now as low or lower than the Lexus floor. Just the exhaust hangs lower. But that will all be tucked up. Started Filling holes left in the Lexus, Plated over, then cut open again to create clearance for Chevy hinges. The LH sill on the Chevy had been repaired quite well in the past, The RH sill however had not, so i cut all the rust out, and wire brushed it back to nice metal, Folded up a new panel welded it in.
    1 point
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