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Showing content with the highest reputation on 15/09/19 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    This year has been a real rollercoaster. I've had far too many projects on my plate (and a lack of motivation to finish them), not much expendable income and a huge life change with my 5+ year relationship ending... So I've been planning on thinning the hoard, moving somewhere else and starting a new life. So when an old, rare 2 stroke bike showed up, the logical thing to do would be to pass on it. Right? WRONG. Enter the Wolf. This piece of Suzuki engineering is 1969-1971 Suzuki T90 Wolf. It's very closely related to a T125 stinger. My dad and I missed out on a T125 last year and we were gutted. It was a green one in "barn find" condition- but appeared to be missing the carbs: Then a wee while ago, @SOHC happened upon this old T90 Wolf that he and his friend used to ride around 15+ years ago. He said it would be available, so a deal was struck and I went to collect it over the weekend. It's a quirky wee beast and has some cool features like a seat that hinges backwards - I've never seen this style before. The seat has seen better days and needs a trip to midnight upholstery so @64valiant can work his magic on it. The frame, forks and motor are all bit dirty and there's some corrosion, but it's surprisingly good for a bike that's been sitting for this long. It needs a headlight, indicators, speedo cable (the thread is broken on the underside of the speedo unit) and the forks will need a bit of love to deal with the peeling chrome. I think a strip and re-paint will be good enough for starters. Eventually I'll strip this bike down and give everything a proper clean up. The frame could do with a blast and re-paint, the tank needs a small amount of rust cleaned up and a re-spray. Overall it's a very solid bike though! And runs amazingly well for something that's been sitting in a barn. All it took was a bit of fuel and it fired into life. Jeah! Rare, old, small capacity, 2 stroke, twin cylinder radness. This should be fun.
  2. 11 points
  3. 10 points
    Mounting the fuel tank was today's job, got it mostly done, little bit of welding left to do. Fuel filter and pump will go in the spare wheel well and I'll make a cover that goes over the top of the well I need to sort a sealed cap and a spill ring, and an extra fitting on top for a return
  4. 9 points
  5. 9 points
    Front brakes ready to bolt on VJ spindles, new discs with 3mm off the od thanks to @RXFORD, then @RUNAMUCK kindly supplied some wheel studs to replace a couple that got mangled on the way out, reco surf calipers, new wheel bearings, aussie valiant lower ball joints which have a shorter steering arm for more hektik drifts, and repco had some new dust caps
  6. 6 points
    left that alone for a while, i was in a huff and also busy with other stuff finally gave it a wet sand and filled all the shitty little fisheyes with icing, and put another pretty thinned coat of blue down and it turned out much better pulling off masking tape is the best. then lashings of dinitrol.
  7. 5 points
    I actually like the rude rude as white bonnet look haha. 2pac likes it and that’s all that counts.
  8. 5 points
    kinda boring update. hadn't changed the thermostat forever, so thought would try a lower temp one. seen on engine masters they made some more power running cooler water temps, so cant hurt to try.. new one is meant to be 68 degrees. but seems like more like 76 degrees. the stock Toyota one is 82deg and sits bang on that under normal conditions So yep, robbed. as you would expect no change in power, with only a 6 degree difference in water temp. but did confirm what have been seeing with oil temps; 20deg more oil temp is consistently another 3-4kw. that's going from 80deg to 100deg. faster engine is spinning more gains. in other news, some time ago i put a china alternator on it, because cheap. have been fighting broken bolts and alternator brackets for awhile. which i assumed was my crappy bracket that i made too lightweight. turns out old mate was on his 2min lunch break and this alternator skipped the balancing stop on the production line. spinning it up with my impact driver which maybe spins at 2000rpm it wanted to jump out of your hand. so yeh at 20k rpm... note windings held together with string
  9. 4 points
    Gave it a very quick sand and applied some old clear coat I had lying around. Looks like it might work.
  10. 4 points
    Righto, so ive been driving this to work every day for the last month ir whatever. Hasn't missed a beat. Its fucking slow. Fuck me is it slow but that's not such an issue, it's fucking cool and I like driving it. The front end is a bit all over the show If you have to hit the brakes on the motorway so ive replaced all the bushes. Castor arm bushes and upper inner bushes were completely fucked. Im fairly certain they were original ones. I'll do the back next weekend and put thre disk brake diff in at the same time.
  11. 3 points
    Just needs a couple of spannys and it'll be ready to scorch a few snags!
  12. 3 points
    New bike collected. Wonder if it'll do 700km after not moving for about 20 years?
  13. 3 points
    Only if you mention it in public searchable forums...
  14. 2 points
    What are you doing this weekend?.. I finished assembling the 139 tonight, It even plugs right into the nifty loom! I just need to repin the starter plug and replace one crimp and its good to go. Next on the list for the nifty is square up the engine mount and figure out a rear shock or hardtail of some description. Currently the front of the motor is right under the old nifty shock mount. I'm starting to pre stretch the tyre with bits of wood in a attempt to make it easier to mount
  15. 2 points
    Awesome! I'm hoping to get to a ride or two before the end of the year. Hopefully I get it howling up to the original 68mph (best around the block was 70kph, but it'll get there). Found a headlight and gauge assembly from a T125 for $50. I've bought it and hope it will arrive this week.
  16. 2 points
    https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/lighting/reversing-lamps They don’t have to work, but can’t have a hole in the lens or a stuffed reflector
  17. 2 points
    Damn that things sweet. Dat engine, Dat tank, Daaaammmmmnnnnn.
  18. 2 points
  19. 2 points
    Back from holiday so called Stephen again, very friendly guy. Said he thinks this car might might be the one which the Redcross bought new to raffle off in Wellington. He thinks he should have some kind of paperwork. But it will take a while to look through, it was 40 years ago lol. Ask me to call him again in a couple of weeks. Wife has been sick since we got back so haven't had any time the last few days to work on cars, had the kids play on the driveway so I could have a look at the distributor. Thought maybe the points were stuck. Looks like its oxidized, moved ok. Then the boy sprayed the girl with the hose so I didn't look any further.
  20. 2 points
    Photo upload limit....
  21. 1 point
    We're not running under NZDRA or IHRA, so there's no official regulations to follow. The logbook rule is enforced by Meremere and is only relevant for club days like this.
  22. 1 point
    Interesting - I was under the impression a msnz logbook was generally no good.. Yeah the mx5 plus my honduh and an early 4wd mirage are the current caged logbooked machines. Mx5 is still on a low boost run in tune. Would probably bring the mirage if the date works with my calendar.. Non caged would have to be the turbocoon but I think that might not be ideal. Pity the turbo KP is not caged (yet)..
  23. 1 point
    Sick. Sick, sick, sick.! Cool on a new level! As you were etc
  24. 1 point
    Is it one of those if they are there, they have to work things? Like a spare wheel, if it's there, it has to be bolted down.
  25. 1 point
    This photo uploading gig is really trying my patience...
  26. 1 point
    So this happened today - purists please look away. I have a spare RX2 s2-3 bonnet that has just been gagging to have an IDA hole cut into it.... this was the result
  27. 1 point
    I am liking this progress. Stopping powah looks top notch.
  28. 1 point
    Who needs a welder? Sorry, couldn't find it in English.
  29. 1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Turns out i need to use the cylindrical style transformers, they need a longer ramp up time of at least 8 milliseconds, ideally 10-12. The little cube ones are nice but they seem to foul. Although the cube style produce a hot enough spark to burn paper & start to melt the spark plug electrodes, when fouled with fuel they can't even light a pan of fuel. The cylinder style build up a charge and discharge it all at once, this appears to help with the 'self cleaning' effect. A big plug gap will make them lag like crazy, but the spark is loud enough to hear from outside the engine block.
  32. 1 point
    so umm yeah I have an issue. another 260c. I couldn't help myself. it's got rego on hold and should go through a wof without any rust repairs. plus for those with ocd its only 33 rego numbers different to the red 260c. jap assembled. sold new in invercargill. plans are get it running and get it legal. the paint is stuffed so a re-spray at some point would be nice
  33. 1 point
    Getting there. Will find some words later on and give a full run through when it’s done.
  34. 1 point
    Headlight for tails would be great! And use the high beams for the stop lights. #tailgatersgetfucked.........
  35. 1 point
    The animated ones are the best lol. I hear you though, some can be pretty bright.
  36. 1 point
    Sounds similar to a key transponder / security nonsense issue you get on BMWs. Might be either playing up or bad voltage / batteries.
  37. 1 point
    Is the red padlock icon on the dash illuminated when the no start fault occours?
  38. 1 point
    A pair of molds to make a pair of grille inserts. Needs to be mdf. I'll pm you sometime in the future
  39. 1 point
    Not really any photos of the step by step, I took all the stuff out I didn't want, then filled the holes with cardboard and tape, then a bit of jib stopping compound (because easy to apply and sand) then some old spray paint because cardboard and jib stopping compound is pretty porous. Then usual wax pva etc before banging down a couple of layers of carbon, all I had was 300mm wide cloth so joins /overlaps are a bit shit. The underside is reinforced with some ~50mm wide strips of heavy weight chopped strand glass to stiffen it up. Then cut the edges to size. Basically because I cbf doing it properly with a mould first the finish is nowhere as good as it could have been but I was concerned with lift away at the edges with no vacuum equipment. Hey whatever it should do the trick. Photos of the prepped dash with some paint, wax and pva to assist with release.
  40. 1 point
    cheers, no luck so far, anyone else got any ideas ? I registered on the Toyota Europe GS site, it said all done no problems then just dead. Im going to try a bluetooth phone OBDII reader thing but I doubt itll do what I want. Also transplanting a 1KD common rail diesel into something else is possible, I done it and am driving it
  41. 1 point
    Faaaarkin’ finally! Only took 6 months and parts from 5 countries.
  42. 1 point
    hey also, here's a technical tip for those of you interested in the finer details of auto trans setup, if you want it to not leak fluid out the bottom, do up the drain plug. you got that?
  43. 1 point
    Sorted out the bore size so it's the same as the disc bore. Then I made a mandrel to stack the disc and the sandwich plate and the old disc, so I could use the holes in the old disc as a drilling guide.
  44. 1 point
    today i drove took the car for a decent drive, first drive since power steering install. fuck me, its a different car. the old steering box was fucked which didnt help but man its a different car, both in carparks and on the motorway. so much better! and during the night time i decided i wasnt happy with the sub box i made yesterday so i made another one today. its much better, sub faces forward instead of sideways and the box fits into the car better. the internal volume is closer to what i was trying for as well. every body's a winner! 2019-07-28_04-20-39 by sheepers, on Flickr
  45. 1 point
    Got some 20mm plate plasma cut. I had a one spare cut in case I fuck it up. I started whittling at it with the mill. Managed to drill 4 holes in EXACTLY the right spots on the first one! I used the dial thingamies on the table adjuster wheels. I still need to machine it down to 15mm, make some 11mm spacers and get some bolts the right length.
  46. 1 point
    have begun the process of installing some sounds. got the head unit mounted. next will be figuring out how im going to mount some front speakers. 2019-07-22_08-52-56 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-07-22_08-52-39 by sheepers, on Flickr
  47. 1 point
    Ok so I'm still chipping away at this. Kinda slow... what have I done...? - Stripped the blue clubman for anything useable and took the shell for scrap (It practically folded in half from rust when they lifted it off the trailer). - Using the front subframe out of the clubman which is the one I need (earlier type), pulled apart that running gear but the bores are rusted out... - Pulled the drivetrain from the yellow mk3 and stripped that one, bores are ok and should come up with a hone. - Took the interior out of the mk3 and started fitting that to the mk2, kinda digging the brown/green combo. - Realised that the hoodlining is different between mk2/3 so am thinking of trying to mod the body to make the mk3 one fit (I 'think' it will)
  48. 1 point
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  49. 1 point
    How to put a curve in a 4mm thick aluminium sheet to fill the hole you cut in the sump. Get a random bit of thick wall rusty pipe about the right diameter. Wrap it in card so you don't mash rust into the aluminium. Then, using another bit of square section, clamp it in the vice along the bend line. Put a big bit of wood against it and hit it with a mallet. Pick the wood up off the floor and put it back. Hit it again. Pick the wood up off the floor and put it back. Hit it as hard as you can. Pick the wood up off the floor and put it back. Wail on it like a crazy person. Each time, picking the wood up off the floor and put it back. Observe how much it HASN'T FUCKING MOVED AT ALL. Switch to sledge hammer, hit it literally five times. Done.
  50. 1 point
    Pulled up my suspenders, slid on some spectacles and fired up the soldering iron, the day has arrived to attack the emulsion tubes! From the previous post, suspicions of the emulsion tubes not being right was strengthened, spending the day pondering methods to attack I settled on the 4 large holes at the top, from my understanding, the jet at the bottom controls fuel flow to the venturi, via the emulsion tube, which mixes air into the fuel assisting atomisation, this air mix is governed by the air corrector and the series of smaller passages along the length of the tube. roughly speaking, the holes at the top control mix at idle, the holes lower down, WOT. Having already messed with the air corrector diameter and unable find a combination that gave good mixture throughout, I was always left with a gaping hole around 3500rpm, so, dead spot around 40% throttle and 4 large holes around one third of the emulsion tube, reasonable place to start! Now, one would ask, why not just buy another set? well first of all, i'm cheap, a set of four to try would be a good chunk of efi money, second, i'm a sucker for learning and thirdly, the only difference between the 4 available styles is the body diameter of which I can't find solid data on what this actually changes. So, remove said items: Air corrector at the top, emulsion tube center, main jet bottom. Fill 2 of the 4 upper radial holes with solder and leave to dry Being a Friday night, I felt a quick drive was needed, so not expecting much I casually drove out to the open road and wow what a difference! the chasm is now a friendly ditch, I really should have hooked up the data logger as mixture stayed within acceptable limits for the first time throughout the rev range, more testing needed but a step forward in battling against the 50 fudges that constitute mechanical carburettors. PS, this is in no way an endorsement of twin carbs, EFI is king!
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