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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/30/17 in all areas

  1. Got the tailgate painted (nothing special I must say) and the glass reinstalled with a new rubber and plenty of goo. Sore thumbs after that effort. Drove up to Ohakune for a weekend with the Morris Enthusiasts Club (yes there was a literal Barry in attendance). First stop on Saturday was Horopito. Last time I was there I didn't have this car, so wasn't looking for BMC Farina models. This time was different. Found a (shagged) wagon And others Grabbed a right rear door interior panel off this one, as I didn't have one at all. It's not quite a match, but better than nothing. We also visited the Chateau, and Te Porere Redoubt on that side of the mountain. Sunday we stopped at the Tangiwai memorial which has been upgraded quite a bit since last year. Turned off the main highway at the railway crossing near Tangiwai and headed down the Turakina Valley. Mostly dirt roads down this way. Stopped for a cup of tea, and then lunch on this route. Also at a waterfall. Exited the back roads at Hunterville and headed home via P North. Took quite a while to wash the mud out from under the car (first wash since Nats I think) Weather was actually quite good (especially compared to the forecast) so didn't get to test the water-tightness of the duct-taped front screen seal. That will be the next bit to be worked on I think.
    7 points
  2. And the two crowns stashed away being friends in the all legal begal club.
    5 points
  3. Giant oversized novelty Acme slingshot for maximum LOL's
    4 points
  4. Just over a month til this lush event Come along on Sunday 9th July to trawl thru the always eclectic selection of treasure/junk Eat a speedway hotdog for breakfast Fight off hyperthermia Get your car stuck in the bog they call a carpark Find that super rare something you have been looking for since forever Neat Gates open 7am Paradise Valley Speedway up behind the badlands of Western Heights
    3 points
  5. Went to hamilton today to pick up this fine specimen. It's a 8.8 ford diff out of a 91-99 explorer. There are a few reasons for using this. They are cheap ish, have discs and a decent handbrake setup , lsd, 31 spline axles, same diff as a mustang so plenty of aftermarket parts available, and if you narrow one axle tube 3" and use 2 short axles it makes it just the right width and pinion offset for a valiant. I do have a 9" that I was going to use, but it has already been narrowed but not enough. New housing and axles was going to be 2k, plus rebuild the diff and get a lsd center, plus brake conversion, was probably the best part of 3.5- 4k. And yay, wheels fit over the brakes.
    3 points
  6. http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/industrial/earthmoving-machinery/bulldozers/auction-1332398420.htm Detroit powered too so it'd be a win win situation
    2 points
  7. Today I picked up a rebuilt wiper motor and ended up chatting to the geeze at the autosparkies, and chanced upon the fact he had a brand new in the packet wiper arm upstairs he was happy to sell me. Much joy.
    2 points
  8. Many many thanks Chris for helping cut up my car, and Mike for loan of the plasma cutter. Now I just need load the unwanted bits on to the trailer and take them to the skip.
    2 points
  9. Will calendar right now. Gah Calendar has be beaten for next meet with wahine's netball - hopefully an early game. Will make an appearance whichever side of the game I can make anyway!
    2 points
  10. Engine and gearbox in. Need to swap diff heads over then chuck the diff and driveshaft in.
    2 points
  11. Engine bayback of dash/trunkdoor jams and inside of doorsinner wheelwellsand back side of rear valance.Done.
    2 points
  12. Hayden Rowe does, for getting a thick aluminium plate cut. He has a project thread on here from memory. Patina and full rear guard is the way of the future IMO imgur free upload pictures
    2 points
  13. Someone sent me this last night. Some number plate spotter foamer saw what I'm assuming is what the previous owner traded this in on...
    2 points
  14. Hi All, So early last year i decided id by another bike and get my license this time round. after much searching and research i found this RF400RVV just one street over. It was pretty tidy, and rode well. With 53Hp and 195kg dry, it sits at the upper echelon of the LAMS Power to weight formula. Rode it day in, day out all through winter and did the following work: Front wheel bearing New pads all round New air filter (wasnt running one when i bought it) Brake fluid flush Bridgestone T30 tyres Valve Clearances checked and adjusted (Being a 'VC' engined model, this was a massive learning curve even for the mechanic, and was well beyond my skills and limited toolset) After all this work, the bike was running really well, and i was thoroughly enjoying it heading into summer. And then this happened: Hit a patch of oil on Paekakariki Hill road, and Lowsided at 70km/h. Would have been fine, except shortly after I hit the bank, the Bike did as well. Having over 200kg (wet) behind it, it had considerably more momentum than my 80kg frame, and as it hit the bank rear end first, it pirouetted and came down on my leg, and then carried on further down the road. A Local Good bastard was following, and he called an ambo and moved my bike to the side of the road, because at that point my legs were not working. The cops turned up, took one look at the oil covered road and declared that it wasnt my fault, and "we're really friggen happy you're alive". Good Bastard shot home, grabbed a trailer and took my bike back to his and stored it for me. After Most of the Day in A+E, it was declared that I had sprained the PCL Ligament in my left knee, and had nerve damage in my right Leg. I was OK and could go home. After about a month of physio i was walking normally again, with the ligament about 85% healed and the nerve damage 100% healed. So anyway, I got my bike back and stripped all the plastics off it to assess. At first i though it was OK, however closer inspection revealed that the frame took a couple of good hits, with a good crease up front, and the rear subframe well and truly fubared. Its sat like that for 4 months. I had a half assed attempt at straightening the rear subframe, but gave up when i realised it was too far gone, and even if i could straighten it it would have lost much of its structural integrity. As the rear subframe is welded to the main frame, I couldnt just find another and bolt it on like some bikes, also with the crease up front i decided that the frame was toast. Then as if by magic, a frame popped up on Trademe that had everything i needed: Main Frame L/H Rearset and Gear Lever Front Fairing Support Front Fairing and Screen Dash Cluster (Rare as rocking horse shit - the last two years of production used s different cluster, and only on the 400s) Came to a deal with the seller, and i'm getting the lot incl freight from Hamilton to Kapiti for $500. So i'm well stoked. Should arrive later in the week or early next week. So the plan? Paint frame 2k satin black Strip existing bike, inspect everything and replace rubbers/bearings and seals where necessary Strip forks, paint fork tubes, refresh fork oil Repair plastics - a lot of work is needed here and i have a fair few tricks up my sleeve. I don't think i need to replace anything other than the front fairing. time will tell though Fix Dents in Gas tank Paint Buy some Leathers (My textile gear melted during the slide. would not trade again) Pics:
    1 point
  15. I have a few sets of chains. What size? I probably have both sizes. Too big and too small.
    1 point
  16. Lel first ever Oldschool snow meat? that could be rad / id pay money to see @kyteler whack some chains on the Merc and do fat elevenses all the way to the summit
    1 point
  17. metallurgist i would suspect?
    1 point
  18. Yep- very cool idea. I'll do my very best to come along. I like food
    1 point
  19. Was a great adventure! Would anyone be adverse to a trip to somewhere lush like Arrowtown ? The Fork and Tap goes extremely well
    1 point
  20. Yeah will be flicking it off when i get time etc. You interested? Hydroboost unit is from Hydrotech with CPP proportioning valve. Universal mount. Basically the setup below. Alex
    1 point
  21. @Toddy415 took us on a lovely guided tour round some of Riverton's finest unsealed roads
    1 point
  22. I have junk that can go in the stall and not come back with me........ suckers
    1 point
  23. Shouldn't need high stop light, it's only MA class needs them. There was a recent change in the rules anything pre 90 doesn't need them
    1 point
  24. Right so as previously discussed our meets will retreat to the warmth of New Zealand's oldest pub, The Moutere Inn. This will be held on the last Thursday of every month with our next one on the 29th June I think 6pm is a good start but of course anyone can just turn up when they can. There will be Beer, Banter and Sharns so come along and join the fun. We can discuss any upcoming events or organize a weekend drive from there Chur!
    1 point
  25. Finally got round to fitting the peep mirror I bought at magoos during nats. Looks good but is currently set up in a way rendering it useless lol. However will address at a later date, as seeing getting this thing sorted to the point I am happy enough with it has taken over a year. Next thing on my list is get the datsun van legal so I can sell it. As I still own 7 cars. Its to many.
    1 point
  26. You mean a trebuchet... As obviously it can launch a 90kg object 300m. Edit; shit boi
    1 point
  27. Steam catapult like on aircraft carrier. With a crappy plastic office chair strapped to it.
    1 point
  28. I have always thought these were a good looking bike! Don't be too harsh on your riding gears damage! sounds like it did its job pretty well (eg you didnt mention losing skin ) glad ur ok
    1 point
  29. Autosparks ashburton street sprint 2017 - Run 1 This was about 10.30 in the morning on a cold drying track. First competitive outing on brand new semi-slicks. Was pretty tentative due to lack of grip.
    1 point
  30. I've been having some issues with overheating under load for a little while now, to the point that I couldn't really drive up any hills or drive under boost. A bit of amateur diagnosis pointed to the issue being a blocked/dead radiator. I'm not surprised, as my current one was put in from a parts car I had six years ago, and it wasn't really in great condition back then. On top of that my fan clutch is totally stuffed. So the only options I had were a second hand radiator off trademe (which was likely to be just as shit as the current one), importing a new radiator and fan clutch from rockauto with no guarantee of quality, or for a similar price, getting a new aluminium radiator & electric fan. So the last option is what I did. It also allowed me to removed the rather sorry clutch fan, saving a bit of drag on the engine, and freeing up some space: I installed the new radiator (it is designed for Nissan S13 Silvia with SR20) , with a little assistance from @ProZac's build thread: It needed a custom bottom bracket which I made from a piece of 90 degree aluminium bar, it's functional and solid, but it looks like crap (I'm terrible at metalwork) so I'll probably redo it sometime. I still need to make some proper top brackets, the current one is just temporary. The top radiator hose is from an 89-90 Pajero v6, which fits pretty well. For the bottom hose, I used a bend cut off a P11 primera hose that had lying around, which is attached to the (shortened) factory hose with a length of 35mm OD aluminium tube. I flared the ends a bit to stop the hoses coming off: The fan is controlled by a Flex-a-lite fan controller via a relay, but the radiator actually has a bung for a screw-in temp switch (the seller said it didn't), so I'll probably swap it out at some stage as it has an ugly probe which fits in the radiator fins, so it looks pretty messy. I got it all together and took it for a bit of a test drive tonight, all is working well so far, temperature was stable when driving or idling, and I also took it right to the top of the hill I live on, which is a pretty decent climb and no dramas at all. The fan switches on nicely and pulls quite a lot of air through. So now I just need to do those top brackets and tidy the wiring up a bit
    1 point
  31. Some epic work going into it, but at what point does it stop being a Chrysler and start being a Joshbuilt custom?
    1 point
  32. Fuuuuuck. Was hopeful to smash it today but the more I dug the more was missing. Thats the firewall, so had go slow so as not to burn it with fire. while I was waiting for the rust converter to dry inside the sill I cut open the outer C pillar and the inner between drip rail and door shut. Not good news. Also hung the door back on without any issues, Stoked it even closes! wire wheeled, rust killed and etched the upper wheel arch where the guard bolts on. Soaked the captive nut clips in acid then converter ready to go back onto the area just etched
    1 point
  33. This is the most racecar looking piece I have ever made.. When the car was last together (quite some time ago now) the throttle pedal feel was terrible. I tried different cables and spring rates etc but always felt like it should have been better..maybe I'm just used to more modern things....I dunno. So the goal here was to reduce the cable length significantly- the snake will now come through the firewall and start directly behind the carb rather than above the gas pedal. I was going to use an aluminium or stainless tube but then found a carbon tube cheap on AE. I bought bearings from AE too- the housings are self aligning and they are CHEAP. Next I measured up the factory gas pedal assembly, copied it's basic geometry, made some quick drawings and had these cut. And bent the pedal pad Then this morning I took some aluminium And made these ends up in aluminium. they have lots of drilled and tapped holes for mounting the arms. And here it is together with the ends pressed in. It looks totally badass and is pretty cool to hold and play with as it's SOOOOO light and rigid....a shame it will never be seen haha. The pad will be welded on when it's bolted into car and I know that angles etc are right.
    1 point
  34. oh wicked! i own this now and its manual with a 1g-gteu twinturbo motor in it
    1 point
  35. Hey thanks man. Thats wicked what you said. Im also a fan of the pickups. Like the grill how it curves in the center behind the fog lights. Have seen a few that had been used back in the day at race tracks with modified decks. The center section of the tray opened up like two big door and folded flat to reveal a collapsed beam that you rise up, add the supports and BAM you had a tow truck. Cant find the pics of them at the moment but here is a similar modified 1950 Buick wrecker. link with more info for those wanting to see more here. "Nailhead" came about due to the fact the engines valves kinda look like nails. they are that small. So the old donks have troubles breathing. Factory 2x4 setups used two 600s. These days with pros and the guys who are in the know all recommend two 650s. More so when used with the top intakes like i have coupled in with porting etc. I have had alot of guys go WTF over carbed and point out there worked 350 chev or 351 ford uses half or less of my total CFM. Different strokes for different folks. Yeah im pretty stoked with how the Cnotch turned out. Flockie did an awesome job on it. For breaks im using a Hydroboost setup with 1.125 in master cylinder and proportioning valve. Was wanting to keep the engine bay clean as possible and vacuum units can get rather large. Then the more I read about Hydroboost the more I wanted one. The old 401s dont make much vacuum and if i do the cam will be even less. With the hydro boost running off the PSC pro touring PS pump & external reservoir it will be better for me. The thing will have three full powered breaks worth of compression with engine off and decline from there to normal unpowered breaks. Better yet they sent me TWO full units when i only ordered one. Hydroboost info here. Tell the truth alot of the reason i went with Wilwood was its just easy and simple. the Rods by Reid front end was made for em. John gave me the part numbers needed. Hubs included. No messing about and I was able to get them from summit on special then with my other junk via Kiwi Shipping to NZ considerably cheaper than buying in NZ. Again thanks for the words of encouragement man. Alex
    1 point
  36. By the time you improve the shitty bits, is it worth buying,ie is it cheap? Or would you be better off adapting some pick a part type bits yourself The factory 'diagram' is lol, looks like I drew it
    1 point
  37. Dude that quad looks farking great! I vote roll (lol) as-is. People would pay damn good money for that bike when it's fixed (could just sell it and buy something else more fitting to a project?)
    1 point
  38. Pretty lame compared to some of the sweet projects, but I though i'd whip up a dimple die for making some rigid holes. @mjrstar Please rehost here
    1 point
  39. Finally got an opportunity to wave at a guy driving the same car as me today.
    1 point
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