KustomKreeps

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About KustomKreeps

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  1. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Did like five hours of scraping old sealer off or wire wheeling today. Got the missus to help out what kinda kept me on track what was good. Still think we have another few days to go to get it decent. Poor bird was stuck with the rear tire wells. Pain in the butt angles to deal with but she made some solid progress thats turning out good. Check out the sexy dirt tan lines on my scrawny arms. Similar to a farmers tan... that make it what ? a Bogan/red neck tan? these twisted wire wheels sure do a good job though. So good it uncover a few spots of rust >.> B@$tard!
  2. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Summer Dayz have been good. With the sun shining the 52 Buick has been rolling about the blacktop as much as possible. Haven't really touched the Hudson much but have tinkered on the Buick. Decided to upgrade to an electric fuel pump. The old mechanical fuel pump still is in place with its pipes plugged up. This is not just as a backup encase the electric dies on me but because the old vacuum powered window wipers are driven off it. With the left over plug wires from the Hudson I made up some new sparkplug leads. We had a few issues at highway speeds on a road trip when the car would missfire. Also chucked in new spark plugs. Gave the car a good tune up and adjusted the rockers. Cars going way better. Have a pertronix unit on the way I will chuck in the distributor as well when it arrives. The Hudson is back up on the rotisserie. Below are a few pics that show the new frame work. Obviously the Trans support isn't shown but you can see where it attaches in the above pic. Next is to strip down and wire brush the underside then rust kill, etch prime and lizard skin it.
  3. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Summers here and finally we are starting to get that drive to work on the car again. Winter months tend to make me like some reclusive old bear who rather stay nice and warm in his den and spring when it wasn't raining had us touring about in the old Buick. To help get the enthusiasm back up and get a better picture of where we currently look it was decided to throw the panels back on. Not only would this confirm the jig and new front sub fitted up how it was supposed to fit but it is a simple easy start to getting back into everything. Front On. Alot of this will be changed up abit down the track. Nailhead lurking in the background. we didn't put it in as it would just need to be pulled for the rotisserie. Picked up a visor cheap on HAMB. Adjustable width and seems only slight modifications are needed to make it fit. Will certainly make it look lower. Pulled it out to get a better look. Placed the side pipes just to see how they look. Pretty happy with its stance. This is air out. And finally a before and after. As you can see its dropped down a considerable amount. rear tire is no longer visible. Guessing we are looking at a 5 inch drop. so at air up fully inflated the car will be a bit higher than original. And as we hopped this has me pretty darn keen to get stuck back in to it. Blow it to pieces again in a few days time then get it up on a rotisserie again.
  4. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Some one on one of the forums I post on asked to see the gusseting a bit better. So images of it below. Innerside: Outter side: Basically the rails are cut at 45degress there. Plated on the sides along with top and bottom. Circles cut to show the 45 joins(or lack of it as you see) Cert chap ran his eye over everything. He is more than happy with the front and rear end. Only comment was to add a small bit of triangle bracing to the above image just under the floor pan there. Looking at the original chassis they had some thin metal sheet riveted on in this spot. Its no biggie and will do once the cars up in the air. I was a bit worried about the tie rod ends at the back. Being welded not a one piece. But he was happy with them. He explained the one piece are needed for certain rolls but the welded ones I have for the purpose they are being used for are fine. yey. So ya big tick by the cert guy for the work so far.
  5. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    sweet thanks man. have update the post across all the sites i post it on.
  6. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Fitted jig to locate mounting positions for front panels. Radiator and grill support brackets. Bumper mounts tacked into position. Notched out for radiator surround. Reduced front of chassis to clear front panels. Surround in position. Front panel fitted. Sub-frame removed for final welding & notching for steering arms. This shot can give you an idea of how we attached the front sub into what was a full chassis/uni-body car. All welded and bolted back in. Note xtra cross member installed, this ties the Hudson front together as there is no chassis running through to the back. Notched to allow full travel of the steering arms. Rods by Reid front end all tig welded. Looks good and is nice and strong. Extra bracing added to cross member. You can also see some of the gusseting that strengthens up frame. Thick plate with circles cut, welded in and out. Front brace and rad support completed along with the attachment points for the panels. Trans brace is lurking below on the ground. Done. Ready for the certifier to take a quick look this weekend. For such a project its good to have him follow along. Better to get any issues he might have delt to now than latter when its all painted up and assembled. Once thats done we will throw the panels on to make sure it all fits then rip em off and get the heavy old beast up on the rotisserie again.
  7. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Spring is here, sun is shining and the welder is sending beautiful sparks in the air. Progress is picking up. Engine is out as is obvious from the above pic. The jig that was made up way back when the Hudson was still whole to mark out the holes to mount any panel work is in place and everything is looking good. A few tweaks will be needed but other than that pretty happy with it. A better look at the trans mount and brace that strengthens up the frame so the whole thing dosnt collapse inwards as the sides flay outwards like some molten pudding. (im on a bit of a sweet vibe at the moment- would totally demolish a pack of licorice). Any who this shows the top hat cross sections way better than the last posts pictures. They will be out soon so the frame can be strengthen up. Pic above is for Hnstray on HAMB (I post this build on multiple sites). Showing the diagonal "braces" and how they are mounted on conveyor belt rubber at the bottoms so don't really add anything in the way of bracing. From the jig you can see how they are used mainly to mount the inner guards. That bracket up top held the horns. A better look at the jig that marks the mounting holes. Once everything is marked out the front clip will be taken off. Braced up where needed at the back. Holes cut - both for mounting the panels and rad but also larger ones to help add a crumple zone. Part of the NZ cert rules say we must have a crumple zone to help absorb an impact. So those nice big ol holes we used when doing the rear end will be brought forward up front. The half pipe notching for the steering arms will also add to the whole crumple zone. Then weld it all together, add a lick of paint, put it all together along with the engine panels, rad etc to make sure it all fits.
  8. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Front end is all tacked up and sitting on its wheels!Happy times.Been some time since it has been rolling and its a good feeling seeing it all together upfront again.Air out its sitting pretty much where we wanted it. If you enlarge the above pic you will see the trans cross member is bleeping low. have a couple of inch clearance at this point air out. Ride height is about 2.5 inch higher so say 100mm or 110mm or so.Engine is offset 20mm to get clearance for the PS pump. Not really noticeable even when you are told.If you have been twisted enough to follow along with the progress of the build then you know the rear ends shockwave airbags mounts are adjustable. At the moment is in the middle setting. May bring it up to the highest setting. I do love that rake but the extra inch at the back will help level the carbs a bit along with all the other obvious benefits. Time will tell.Cross support and trans mount are all made up. Folded top hat with a flat bottom similar to the original Hudson braces. Bolt in for ease of access if in the future we ever need to do work under there. Front brace helps for body flex etc.Pic above gives a better idea of how low the braces are. Just lower than the trans pan to help protect it a bit with luck. You can also see eight (4 per side) front access holes to the bolts that let you remove the whole front clip. The whole idea with all this is ease of maintenance for future work.Next is taking out the engine. Welding up everything. Brace up some bits with some gazeting. Notching the front rails for bit more clearance on the steering arms. Drilling the panels holes and ya ... golden. Oh and trim those long ass rails and add the rads front brace. Sigh list goes on.And talking about panels... Flockie held them in place as i took a gander. Instant grin when I steeped back to have a look.We did this not only just to see how it would look but to check the tire clearance as there was a bit of concern the inner guard my hit the tire air out. Nope it was fine with heaps of room. You can see how much longer the chassis rails are as well. Easier to make em shorter than longer was the idea.And talking of Flockie who is doing the welding, math and all the hard stuff at the moment for me.... BAMLooking pretty happy with him self and rightly so. He has done some great work.Go like him on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/flockieschassis/Oh and for a laugh check out my Buick gravel track fun vid on youtube here.
  9. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Things are looking good.Surgery was required & the firewall was cut up a lil bit. This has meant the engine could be brought back a bit whats solved a raft of issues. Clearances for PS rack hose connections solved. It was right up against the sump. But now we have ample room. Able to bring the engine into the center more. Its now only slightly offset by about 20mil. Engine mounts will work way better. Able to get the carbs to the ideal flat positioning as it was on a bit of an angle. Positioning for bracing to join the two sides of the rails will be better. Being able to go under the engine in a bolt in set up. How the trans will sit along with the two piece drive shaft will be way better and pretty much flat whilst not having to modify the floor pan other than maybe slightly at the very front. The distributor will be hidden more. I wanted wires out of sight as much as possible so this suits me. Being a pertronix unit I shouldn't need to get to it much but if needs be will still be able to with out to much hassles. Weight and center of gravity move a bit more back behind the front wheels instead of over them. better clearances for sump. Doing all this means we may have a heap of room up front. Not what I really want but we will have to wait and see how it all looks with the alt, PS pump, radiator and fans. the custom fan shroud I was envisioning may need to be bigger than I was thinking to help fill the gap. Time will tell. once I have the panels on & rad in.Speaking of the radiator. i have decided to keep the original Hudson radiator. Its getting re-cored by a local shop Timaru Radiator Repairs. Russell the guy in charge is a top man and been bloody helpful with some great input. Gave options for different cores etc for the old four core copper rad that included different row spacing etc.Since the tanks are off etc im getting him to do a few other modifications. moving the bottom outlet to the other side to match the Nailheads inlet then shifting the radiators top inlet to the center to match the Nailheads centrally mounted thermostat. Thinking of using a flexy hose to give it that vintage look you see in all the old 50's and 60s mags. Plus the ribbing will go with the fins on the engine.Since its not a great idea to have the filler at the same point as the inlet due to pressure etc im getting it moved to one side on the top but im also getting a dummy one added to the opposite side. This is merely to please my OCD nature. when im standing with the hood up looking down at the engine I want to see the top hose running center rad to center engine then two caps to add balance on either side. My train of thought was with just the one to one side it would be a bit lopsided for the look im after. The dummy will also have a dummy overflow pipe just to keep it symmetrical. OCD much? /twitchA slight notching is needed on the chassis rail above for the steering arm.The engine mounts minus the side supports shown. Along with PS hose clearance. Once the trans is lifted slightly and bolted up it will get the carbs flat along with increasing clearances around the racks hose fittings & rocker covers. Hard to tell from that photo but its looking like very little if any modifications will be required to the floor pan. Will pop it in soon to have a look. Should still be nice and tucked up even at air out.A look at the old Hudson rad and where everything is being shifted to.
  10. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Been ages since I have posted. I find at this time of year i can make an excuse out of anything to put work aside and stay inside being nice and warm.Winter here in New Zealand.My mate Flockie who is doing the brunt of the work has been pulling some long ass hours at work as well and only recently has been able to find a bit of time to get back on to the Hudson.Still as I last said its time to move on to the front end.Loaded up the Nailhead and took it to the Hudson den so measurements could be made.Plonked the engine up front along with the front rack just to take a look.Decided to raise up the low / air height a bit from 2" to 3".Front chassis tacked & assembled. Reid front end in position.Further bracing is still to be added.The whole front sub is bolt in/out. The four holes you see (lower right) is where the front bolts attach. The rear ones obviously are not shown. Some of the bracing will be removed as its just there to hold everything in position.The front clip will be in and out a few more times as things are drilled, welded and god knows what. But still the basic structure is now laid.Slight modification is needed to the rails for better clearances of the front rack.Engine will be in soon enough. Seems like there is heaps of room for it.So things are still progressing.
  11. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    Yeah will be flicking it off when i get time etc. You interested? Hydroboost unit is from Hydrotech with CPP proportioning valve. Universal mount. Basically the setup below. Alex
  12. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    Hey thanks man. Thats wicked what you said. Im also a fan of the pickups. Like the grill how it curves in the center behind the fog lights. Have seen a few that had been used back in the day at race tracks with modified decks. The center section of the tray opened up like two big door and folded flat to reveal a collapsed beam that you rise up, add the supports and BAM you had a tow truck. Cant find the pics of them at the moment but here is a similar modified 1950 Buick wrecker. link with more info for those wanting to see more here. "Nailhead" came about due to the fact the engines valves kinda look like nails. they are that small. So the old donks have troubles breathing. Factory 2x4 setups used two 600s. These days with pros and the guys who are in the know all recommend two 650s. More so when used with the top intakes like i have coupled in with porting etc. I have had alot of guys go WTF over carbed and point out there worked 350 chev or 351 ford uses half or less of my total CFM. Different strokes for different folks. Yeah im pretty stoked with how the Cnotch turned out. Flockie did an awesome job on it. For breaks im using a Hydroboost setup with 1.125 in master cylinder and proportioning valve. Was wanting to keep the engine bay clean as possible and vacuum units can get rather large. Then the more I read about Hydroboost the more I wanted one. The old 401s dont make much vacuum and if i do the cam will be even less. With the hydro boost running off the PSC pro touring PS pump & external reservoir it will be better for me. The thing will have three full powered breaks worth of compression with engine off and decline from there to normal unpowered breaks. Better yet they sent me TWO full units when i only ordered one. Hydroboost info here. Tell the truth alot of the reason i went with Wilwood was its just easy and simple. the Rods by Reid front end was made for em. John gave me the part numbers needed. Hubs included. No messing about and I was able to get them from summit on special then with my other junk via Kiwi Shipping to NZ considerably cheaper than buying in NZ. Again thanks for the words of encouragement man. Alex
  13. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    With the car now off the rotisserie its time to start looking at the front end. As is blatantly obvious there is a slight lack of one currently. Its laying outside somewhere. The old Hudsons one although fine in the days of dirt track NASCAR was a little lacking for what I was after. That being an updated drive train with disk brakes, power steering, airbags and room to fit the engine & trans in. Unfortunately the heavy old setup fell short on pretty much all these points. Now I think I have already rambled on about the process of deciding what to do up front and so wont go on about it to much. Basically it boils down to shelving ideas such as restoring & updating the old setup, to a Fatmans front clip, to Jag IFS, to a Holden HQ-HW setup, to the current custom made setup that is made to my ride height, weight, drive style with zero bump steering, anti dive and all that guff. It also meets all the rigorous New Zealand certification requirements. The little progress we did on Saturday was just assembling the fronts hubs & brakes along with nailing down the desired and final air out height up front. So nothing to hardcore. Using a Wilwood setup. Main thoughts being I already had Wilwood at the back, they sell the complete hub & brake kit so things should fit together easy, and they should give no worries with stopping the heavy hung of iron. Also the kit should fit under most 15" wheels but would be fine with larger wheels upto say 20inch. - yes im still unsure what im using wheel wise. The kit used is a 6 piston, vented, drilled & slotted 12.19" rotors with ford stud ( part no. 140-10741-D ) purchased from Summit who had them on special and nicely also chucked in stainless hose brake kit for free valued at near $60 USD. Nice perk that will make it not only fit all together easier but will look sweet as well. I must admit I think Summit Racing is one of my favorite stores in the world *~*' Bearings and aluminum hubs all fitted together nice. packed up with high temp grease. Of course Wilwood would have to be different and used bleeping star shaped T40 & T45 headed bolts. And naturally we had to drop everything to pop down to the local engineering shop to pick up a half inch set so we could torque em up. Once back said newly purchased sockets firstly snapped trying to torque to a small 20 or 25lbs then twisted trying to do the next size ups 40lbs. Was more than disappointed with Teng Tools quality and they will be going back. these happened to be the only ones they had in imperial at the time. It will all be pulled off anyway when we go to paint everything but still... holdups and crap tools. Sure many of you know the frustration of it all. And whats one of my posts with out a bunch of photos... Setup on the welding table. Sitting in front of the car. Drilled holes in the shock bars at air out/low height and have it set to that. This is the car at our original ride height. note the 25mm/1 inch bar up front under the car. Bleeping low and we have decided to raise the front up another inch so will have two inch clearance at this lowest point when air out. Will also give a slight rake to the car whats cool. The rear can be raised or lowed as well as its on its middle setting but we are planing to keep it there currently. And to give a better idea of how high it currently is.. a pic of yours truly standing next to the car. Love how the roof looks chopped but its still factory. Again note this is air out not at ride height.
  14. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Off the rotisserie. Sitting at Air out lowest height. Looking at assembling front clip this week at some point. Then from there its fabricating the new front ends rails etc and getting it all together.