KustomKreeps

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About KustomKreeps

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  1. For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

    thanks guys. Nothing on the cert side just wof?
  2. For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

    Hey ya Im half way through a 49 Hudson custom project. Coming up to the electrics. Have an American Autowire Highway 22 kit for the bulk of the wiring. Looking at upgrading the headlights from the old sealed beam 7" jobbies to say LED if possible. Keeping the original buckets and outer chrome trim ring but replacing everything else (lens/reflector/bulb/housing). Getting lens and reflector suited to LEDs. Im looking at using: www.vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-inch/vc4000-ultimate-kit/ or www.vintagecarleds.com/shop/7-inch/vc3500-classic-kit/ Look old but are made for LED. FAQ say they are E-Code etc. I know there are issues around HID conversions and non white or amber bulbs but im unsure if there are any about LED. Thought I better check in before I go much further. Is there a LVVTA fact sheet pdf? Anyone know of any cert issues etc? Cheers Alex
  3. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    recommended 1500psi. For the PS pump I have a PSC pro touring pump. They are mostly know in the extreme offroad/rock crawly community for tough, well made and top line components but are also making some damn nice circle track and street rod parts. three port reservoir and Type II TC pump that is rated 1500psi or greater. Hand built in the states and dyno tested. http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pro-touring-type-ii-pump-kit-for-rack-pinion-w-hydroboost-black-anodized-aluminum-reservoir.html Wanted a small pump to help de-clutter the engine bay but needed something that would put out 1500psi or greater all day. Want the focus to be the old Nailhead not the accessories when the hood is up. I went a tad overboard with the brakes. What with 6pot wilwoods and hydraboost.
  4. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground. Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section. As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess. As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor. Also started the park brake. Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy. Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time. Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it. Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively. You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together. As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever. The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly. Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable. Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes. Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess. Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s. But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace. Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground. Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section. As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess. As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor. Also started the park brake. Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy. Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time. Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it. Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively. You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together. As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever. The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly. Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable. Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes. Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess. Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s. But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace. Exhaust is done for the time being. Sure we will take it off to weld up and paint in the coming weeks but this is as far as we will go on it until it is sitting back on ground. Added in the two mid/front sections of pipe. Had to off-set one slightly to get better clearances etc as it comes forward to the trans. the H will be in the next section. As for the back. Well cut the holes for where the exhaust will pass through the frame but really need the car on the ground with the bumper on to get this bit sorted. Will tidy this up next week I guess. As you can see in the below pic everything is tucked up nicely. Those mufflers are 5 inch thick. Yip the big fat mothers are sitting flush with everything else and not dangling low whilst they have about half inch clearance from muffler to heat and sound treated floor. Also started the park brake. Using a Lokar kit. The Wilwood disks at the back have a drum assembly as well for the park brake and everything just clipped together easy. Routed the cables through the frame. Used a bit of airhose to insulate/protect the cables even though they are in a heavy duty housing. Thats what the blue pipes are on the top pic. Yeah not the best looking I know but really who cares. They will get painted up and after driving will be coated in road gunk in no time. Made up a mounting plate with a access hole to get to the bolt under it. Idea is the front handbrake cable(using the stock Hudson one) will run along the inside of the outer frame to a lever we will make up next week that will attach to these brake cables. Lever so we can apply more force and thus lock those brakes up more effectively. You might of spotted the brake booster is in place. Was all very good chatting about levers etc for the handbrake but with real-estate under the car being restrictive we had to make sure both the brake booster and park break lever would fit in the same area together. As you can see – plenty of room for the rest of the park break system/lever. The placement of the brake booster worked out ace. way better than I hoped for to tell the truth. All I had thought was along the lines of ” I want it out of sight maybe hidden away under the floor like the original Hudson system.” Well how Flockie designed up the front sub frame works so well with the setup. Will bolt right up to the frame as you can see and it aligns right up with the hole in the firewall for the brake pedal assembly. Only issue was we had to cut a bleeping hole in the floor. Sigh. But what can you do? It hardly pokes through and with luck once its carpeted up with wont be noticeable. Guess I will give a run down on what im using. Hydrotech hydro boost unit. Supposed to be the bee’s knees with more stopping power than a vacuum booster. Runs off the PS pump not the engines vacuum so may free up a few HP. Has an accumulator that gives three or so full pressure presses of the pedal should a failure happen to the PS pump or something. Then the system would work like manual brakes. Then a dual master cylinder. Bore of 1.125 in./1.578 in. Have a remote cap & reservoir to throw on it so I dont need to worry about access holes in the floor and lifting carpet etc to check the brake fluid etc. More on all this latter down the track I guess. Will reposition the proportioning value under the MC instead of pointing down. Will also change out some of the hydraulic fittings to banjo’s /90’s. But yeah happy how it all mounts up & aligns up. Was thinking we might have to make big brackets to hold it in etc but how it lines up and mounts up with the frame is ace.
  5. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    If you have ever seen what can happen if a driveshaft goes bad then you can understand the importance of drive shaft loops. Mandatory here in NZ and come with a raft of requirements on positioning, thickness, design, how many you need and god knows what. The idea of being in a pole vaulting car as a broken shaft digs in to the pavement dosnt light my candle so to speak so Flockie and I got out to the shed and tackled the rear loop. one of the two the Hudson needs. Nice thick 6mm plate all bent up for the loop then a sandwich of another couple of 6mill plates on the floor to hold it all in place. Hanging off the loops floor plates we added more exhaust hangers. two for each muffler. this is to help stop the roll we had in the system that may cause issues over time. So in that section we have a bobbin/cotton reel mount carrying & positioning the load as it comes through the tunnel then two hangers just after it per muffler. We have so much tucked up in this area that we have to have that rigid placement to make sure all clearances are correct and everything stays where we want it to. Also added the two 90s behind the diff with flanges with a couple of bobbin mounts. Although everything currently looks good with no movement in the system and ample(yet rather tight) gaps we realize things can shift so these back mounts mounting plate are bolted to the floor to add a bit of future flexibility should we get some rattle or something. Guess next weekend we will do the front loop. Maybe run the front pipes and add the H cross over then toy with handbrake cable routing ideas(have a Lokar kit). Or perhaps look at the rear that will need strengthened & notched to allow the pipes to pass through.
  6. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    Cheers. Got it sorted. Front is easy but need to confirm for the back. If it needs one at all back there or if the loop that goes over the bearing will be fine. any one out there know ? for split driveshaft like pictured at the end of the build thread.
  7. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    We all pass gas. Cars are no exceptions right. The louder it is the better it is. And I like a good deep tone. Time to tackle how to get the stinking unwanted gas out the backend of the car. 0.0′ to much? ok seriously I will stop farting around. First off a general run down on the plan for the exhaust system overall. Running 2.25″/57mm pipe. Seems to be the favored max pipe size performance Nailhead guys use. Fine with me as I dont have much room to go larger. Shiny headers up front that Tee off to 2″ chrome sidepipes. Single exit not triples. These will be capped most of the time but will be functional. H to balance the gases and get a better sound and maybe better low end torque all going well. Couple of big ol mufflers. Exiting out the back through a Kaiser overrider. Christ it looks simple enough on paper right. How come thats always the way of things? So picked up the Headers and Lake pipes from the states at a sale way cheap. Pipes are 80″ single exit chrome 2″ jobbies you see all over the place. Using Patriot Tight Tuck headers. Reviews on various sites only showed good things – better than Sanderson and TA Performance. The ceramic chrome finish looks good. Mufflers im going for Flowmaster Super 40 series delta flow center/center. I know what a bloody mouth full. Big monsters that are 5inch thick. Always hard to tell when getting the right muffler even after watching/listening to so many sound bytes and youtube clips of Nailheads with the same muffler. Still they didnt seem to be to droning whilst still giving a nice deep sound. Only time will tell if this is the case. Always will have the side pipes to uncap and roar if we really want to let people know we are coming. Got some flanges laser cut up. Came with gaskets and bolts and worked out cheaper than off the shelf. Went for the thicker tube & bends pipe wall than standard. Easier for welding, sounds a bit better(apparently?), and with luck will last a bit longer. Also using Rubber bobbins/cotton reel style mounts through out the exhaust system. Starting in the middle at the hardest point. From bearing to muffler then over the diff. Many cuts & welds made the custom exhaust sit nice and snug whilst still allowing good clearances of about half an inch at the closest points to any other structure. May sound simple but took forever to get it to sit just right & point in the right direction whilst not dangling lower than the frame. Bloody happy how it turned out. Originally we had thought we might need to roll the pipe to flatten it a bit as we didnt think we would get it through the old Hudson center driveshaft hole. The mounts will carrying the exhaust load not hanging it. No matter if at Air out, ride height or Air up all looks good. Took ages getting it just right with so many tiny tweeks its just silly. But do it right and do it once. Very happy with the work Flockie did here. So ya. Thats where we are up to at the moment. Next weekend will C notch the rear frame to allow the exhaust to pass through so it can go through the stock Hudson bumper then through the Kaiser over rider. Similar to the below.
  8. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Time for an update as more nutting out, shelling out, figuring out and cutting out has been happening. Starting off with the driveshaft. I wanted a two piece. Front will be locked static from trans to center bearing. then I wanted a slider second section due to airbags changing the length by over an inch of the second section. Had looked at a heap off options and discarded them all. Jag, Holden, Land Rover, HiAce, 4WD and list goes on. Sure I could get a dirty old thing & get it cut up and balanced. Recondition it. but in the end it was decided that everything else is new under the car & I like the piece of mind knowing a custom made one to my engine and requirements should last with any abuse thrown at it. Besides the car will be to low to want to go feking about with driveshafts ever again. Aint cheap to get all new components and shaft made up but its made for a nailheads low rev high torque and not a high rev/hp BBC/Ford. Now this was not some over night decision. Spent weeks solidly thinking about options and going to wreckers & talking to those in the know around the country. Heck the drive shaft had been sitting in my mind from the start & Flockie had been thinking it over from the time he got his hands on it. You will note in some old pics various driveshafts laying about. learnt a heap and Fraser the chap who made it up at Circle Track Engineering in Christchurch NZ was a top bloke to deal with. Showing us abut the shop & explaining everything. Next step was to get the darn thing in the car. Original plan was to bolt up the center bearing in the Hudsons cross brace where the old shaft ran. Whats that saying about best laid plans of mice and men… Basically the bearing was a lil to tall to get in the hole with no cutting and of course a tad to wide to also allow the exhaust. No biggie when you come armed with a cut off wheel right. Tunnel Mark1. Keep the Hudson one piece design and C- notch the top for the exhaust. As you can see. Not the best looking solution (yes I know who will ever see under there anyway right). Also not that strong really even though it was done in 6mm plate. So scrapped that idea. Tunnel Mark2. Goal: make it stronger whilst tucking everything up more & allowing more room for the exhaust. Cut out the whole first idea. Measured & welded up some box section that is way stronger than what originally was in place. Drilled and tapped the center to mount the bearing straight up to the body thus getting it up further. As you can see much more room and a much tidier looking structure. Trim off the ends and added top plats to mount a 6mm plate that will add further strength to the overall area whilst adding an area to mount the exhaust from. With the driveshaft mounted it was time to start thinking exhaust. Will carry that on in the following post. Pretty stoked how its all fitted up and Flockie did a great job fabricating it all up. Stronger and more room than stock Hudson.
  9. Custom Driveshaft

    Just thought I would post a follow up. Hate those threads that ask advice or a question and never get back with the outcome. All new components custom made and balanced. Quotes mostly all came in around $2000 give or take $50. Thats from about six or so different driveshaft outfits around NZ. Parts alone ran around the $1300 mark. Some companies didnt give it much thought and put a quote together that would suit a BB Ford or Chev. A few took the time to read over the build thread and come back with something that would suit a Buick Nailhead that is not a high reving engine. CircleTrack in Christchurch sorted me out in the end. Fraser was a top bloke to deal with and made up a good looking product. Should easily handle the kind of HP, Torque and revs my engine will be putting out.
  10. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    thanks man
  11. KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion

    you can get Lizard Skin from Rods by Reid in NZ http://www.rodsbyreid.co.nz/ But I got it from Summit in the states as it worked out cheaper at the time. Hard to tell as yet how much it will deaden the sound as its just coated on the outside. In the end I will have it every where inside (floor, roof, in & ondoors, boot, firewall and anywhere else I can get it) But saying this. I did a tap test. - had meant to record it but forgot. before spraying the floor "rang" when tapped. after with the underside sprayed its a solid thunk. Cant find the youtube clips that kinda sold me on it. first was a hand bell before and after and the other was for high end stereo with dyno mat vs LS. But the time to apply, places able to coat and area of coverage vs traditional sound deadening mats kinda balanced out the price for me. few youtube clips:
  12. Custom Driveshaft

    currently trying to figure out what I could use. Think HiAces and some 4WDs have split driveshafts with a sliding section but its bit of a pain searching out info on the net and no pick a part around here just to go looking. Whats the DS you used from? and what kinda HP are you putting out?
  13. Custom Driveshaft

    yip had a yarn to the lads at Humphris. Waiting to hear back from them. Also flicked emails off to about six other outfits around the country. Cheers Alex
  14. Custom Driveshaft

    Looking like I will be needing a custom driveshaft made up for my current project. Its one of those things I never really have given much thought to. Kinda take it for granted right. So im after info and feedback from any and all about getting a driveshaft made up. Prices to expect. Dont really mind where in NZ but im South Island based. Basic idea is a two piece setup. Front being fixed. Then the back being sliding as the diff will have 6 inch or so travel due to the airbags. So ya ideas & suggestions please guys. We are not dealing with huge HP. Max I guess is 400HP. Had thought a 4WD setup maybe. But everything else in the car is new so now kinda leaning toward a custom setup. Never had one made up and have no clue at what it may cost or who are a good crowd to deal with. Cheers Alex
  15. Kustom Kreeps 1949 Hudson Leadsled

    Im a creature of comfort I have came to realize as I grow older and my waste band wider. So it goes without saying that I want a ride that is quiet enough to think and warm enough to have my gal showing off her legs in a short skirt next to me on the bench seat. Well quiet when I want it to be/side pipes are capped. To help achieve this level of sloth I chose “Lizard Skin” for my heat and sound deadening. Inside and out. Part of the attraction admittedly is the fact its so bloody easy to apply, cleanup and will go anywhere you can spray it even under the dash with its 90′ nozzle. Write ups of the stuff all sounded promising. The ceramic heat one has a video of a hot plate. Half coated in LS and the other untreated. ice on either side with the treated side not melting at all. Anyway to cut to the point we sprayed the under side first with the sound deadening Lizard Skin. Has a special gun with a large nozzel and sprays about a softball sized pattern. Layed a few coats of this down the first day with cleanup being simple as a wash n wipe down with water. Next day went in with the ceramic heat coating and again it splatted on nice and easy. You can find out more about the stuff if you are interested here. Went in and hooked up the diff and chucked in the bags front and back. With that done we threw on the Fuel, Brake and Air Lines. Bolted down with Rubber insulated P clamps every 300mm. Currently trying to figure out what to do for drive shaft.Thinking two piece. front section fixed. Then D shaped bearing and the second piece sliding to allow for the diff travel as it raises and lowers from the bags. Also working out where we will run the exhaust. Looking at 2.25″ pipe. more on that latter though unless anyone has some insight.`