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For your claim to be true you will have found/brewed/invented a liquid with a higher energy density than petrol. This is a chart below lists energy densities of known types of fuel. Your mystery gas would need to sit somewhere much higher up the page than gasoline does but still have very similar combustion properties. (Aluminium doesnt flow through a carb and burn in a triumph engine all that well) Notice how other types of gasoline substitutes have a considerably lower energy density. Dont forget to collect your Nobel Prize on the way home today

Not a lean burn though

THE SECRET FUEL THAT BIG OIL AND THE US GOVERNMENT DOESN'T WANT YOU TO KNOW ABOUT

That's the classiest burn I've ever seen, Roman.

Speaking of key rings...

Also, how accurate are your odometers? If your speedo reads 110 when you're actually only doing 100, is it clocking up 10% better l/100km? I noticed the Vantage speedo is bang on compared to those roadside radar doohickeys so my 14.2 avg l/100km is presumably moderately accurate.

Oh man sudden urge to own a Subaru XT

Bit of an update. I decided on a TD42 Turbo for maximum torks. Engines quite long so one of the cylinders bobs up and down under the dash. Will chuck some better pics up next week or something.

Long time no update! Had a bit of balls up with the council/plumbing plan change which took about 5 weeks to get sorted and stopped me from pouring the slab, so I went about doing other menial tasks. First up, I spread 70 tonne of 65mm then 20 tonne of 20mm basecourse with the tractor, hand raking much more than I wanted to! Getting it any where near flat with a tractor is a lot harder than you'd think, especially with the middle poles in the way. Compacted with a 500kg compactor in multiple stages then put 6 tonne of sand over top and compacted again. The plumber popped in one arvo and put some pipes in. I borrowed my old boss Mark's 1.6 tonne digger and went to town, digging 120m of trench for the power cable and an extra 20m or so for the phone. Dug under the creek by hand later on and also through the gardens at the front of the section. Fun times! Driveway dug out and 60 tonne of 40mm basecourse spread out Up at 5am to lay out some polythene over the sand. Then four lads and a concrete truck turned up at 7. Home by 10. Mist didn't clear til about 1pm. I left them to powerfloat it and do the roller door rebates. There is no steel mesh in the slab hence laying the polythene the same morning. We used fiber mesh mixed into the concrete itself. Basically the newtech/hairy bog version of concrete! Once again borrowing Marks tools. I pumped water from the creek about 60m away to cut the concrete into 4x4m squares. Quite impressed with the fiber mesh tbh. Started the rest of the framing this week, just as the weather has turned to custard. Wind and rain ftl Couple random pics. Danger tape and trench back filled

Started stripping the passenger rear quarter today Virgin steel, and found stuff.. Needless to say I'm pretty disappointed. I actually had a nos quarter from Japan ordered but these monkeys wanted to go with this piece of shit panel, goes to show that even top end beaters are still wannabe plasterers at heart.. gonna have to cut it out and put new steel back there..

Coming back to this overly simplistic model I drew ages ago: As previously mentioned I've got a spare map sensor hooked up for datalogging (well it's not a map sensor anymore, just a pressure sensor) Tonight I thought I'd finally put it to use and see what sort of air pressure I'm getting at various points up the bonnet, up the windscreen, and start of the roof, and on the front bumper area. So, tape the hose to a certain part of the car, go for a run to 110kph on the motorway, log results, move the hose and test again. Results not as expected! Nothing I initially measured, varied by more than the margin of error of the sensor. As in, if it showed 101kpa when stationary it showed 101kpa when going 110kph as well. And yes I did double check that the sensor works haha. The only tests which showed any variation were taping the hose to the glass on the rear of the side mirror. (Showed a pressure drop, as expected) And having the hose in the rear of the wheel well area. (Showed a pressure drop, as not expected! Thought it would be high pressure area here) I saw more of a change in barometric pressure, than actual pressure variations across the front of the car. It may be that a more sensitive sensor is required like a 5kpa manometer or something, but then is it even really worth bothering about trying to change something if the pressure difference is actually so immeasurably low? I suspect that the rear of the car will be the interesting part for pressure drop etc, however probably what would be more relevant and interesting will be doing some wool tuft tests to see where the airflow detaches. Similar to this: I might need a volunteer or two to help out though at some point, to follow the car down the motorway and snap a few pics so I can see what's happening. Anyone out West Auckland interested in participating in some Dave Science? Disclaimer: actual scientific content may vary from advertisement

I saw you on the weekend. Buying a new angle grinder were you? CUT SPRING CRIMINAL Looking jazzy

Have you tested the components before you dismiss them as needing to be replaced?

TD42's in everything i say. As much as i would love a manual i felt as though i really needed something decent behind the TD42 and no W series or Nissan "big box" would cut it. The safari/patrol 5 speed FS5R50A boxes are more or less a truck gearbox. Not only are they friggin huge, they are very hard to find in RWD format. Even then they are a remote shifted box as used on a Civilian bus. The standard Safari, Patrol, Civilian auto trans is a RE4R03A with a 4WD transfer box bolted to it. Im using a RE4R03A from a 300ZX (VG30DETT) bolted to a standard TD42 bellhousing. Its semi electronic so i will need to do some electronic trickery to make it work correctly. Should tow pretty mean once completed.

Done.

I will be calling them tonight to give an idea on numbers, please let me know if you have not already so far have *Beaver Las Vegas + Kapiti Expressface Bwarp pish Hoeseph McGoatface Steelie Dan KKK Shazatron (maybe) Kicker Audio Big value Ballbag Mourning Bannana bread + Mike Tyson Seedy Al Boreland Terry + 1 All Talk

you are risking electrical fire by pushing it?

You could use 2 outputs one for your tacho and one for your economy figures. Wire tacho input to common on a switch and each output to no / nc on switch. Then when toggled itll switch either output to your tacho display on dash.

What's the length of a TD42 anyway? Are they significantly longer than say, an RD28?

So im finally making finishing progress! Wiring is away getting done atm (Worked out easier / cheaper to send the looms to someone that's done the swap up North than find someone local) Just scored some brand new Trust headers fairly locally for cheap! (cheaper than through Yahoo anyway) Time to get it to the exhaust shop... Then fork out for BC's and it's ready for cert. Fun times.

Getting some roost Another Vid from the bro.

You now probably own the lushest magna in Australia.

When I used to drive trucks I could get my Kenny down under 400m/l, lots of turbo whistley noises occur when doing that hahaha.

so I've still been working on this POS. I have done: - fitted remote central locking and swapped out front door handles for ones without key barrels for someone to screw driver. Yes I have run power lines to the boot if I get a flat battery etc - fitted power mirrors and permanent hidden power feed to dash cam - finished fitting the maroon interior and retrimmed the roof lining as it was sagging down - swapped out shitty rear speakers for not so shitty speakers - replaced a rear brake caliper as the handbrake mechanism had seized - swapped over the best five rims I had from a set of ten - doubled up the number of horns and added a relay Future plans are EFI swap it with Magna TR/TS manifold/loom/ECU etc and maybe five speed swap if I can be bothered - I kind of like the super low gearing and the surprising smoothness of the stock auto.

that's the oil cap

Ahhh one other thing. I made a table in the ECU that temporarily converts my tacho to a fuel economy meter. It's not as simple as just measuring injector pulsewidth, because you could have the same pulsewidth at a higher speed means better economy. So it uses some calcs based on injector pulsewidth, rpm, and vehicle speed in order to wave the needle around, it's a bit unnerving at first haha. But if the needle shows between 2-3k rpm you're doing good, and if its pinned at 8krpm you need to revise your driving strategy haha. Will be interesting to keep an eye on it on longer trips. I dont think it's useful for quantifying changes to the tune etc in the same way as taking averages from the logs though. I also found that I'm a bit of a noob and had my fan switch-on temperature and hysteresis set to a temperature where my fan would just be on all of the time. ha. So fixed this and now the fan runs only very minimally.

Often the speedo will read faster but the odometer will actually be correct (had people years ago worried about road users on their Hilux's which the speedo was reading quicker than they were actually travelling)

Your cranking speed is very slow - either starter is bad or your battery is not so good - poor cable connections etc.

Rusti, don't forget to bring your party proposal tomorrow and remember, I need pictures.

I was poking fun for economy. Maintenance costs of bikes are quite high. I did 12000 km on my fxr and in that time used two sets of tires and a set of front forks. Smiles per miles can't beat a bike

Me. 34 other listed as going on facebook. But don't look up rule 34...

Hmmmm I'm in two minds. My car needs 25hp more to push through the air at 200kph, which doesnt seem much. So what are we left, with, good fuel economy? Nah because the engine in the XT was rubbish. A modern engine into an XT could be interesting, but then I guess if you wanted something slow and economical, it's not like there's a shortage of other options. Then if you wanted something fast and aerodynamic, there are a lot of other options which will be more reliable. Cool gimmick factor though (the importance of this cannot be understated!) but largely pointless to own one unless you like the shape. (and fixing cars a lot) I've still super keen on a Subaru Omega/Leone coupe though, haha.

Consider it done... let me know the address! MAYTE. Come for a ride to Caffeine and Classics in it at the end of the month. Shh just come.

No problem, can supply a ride if it's just you? Taking a 2-seater you see.

Such a reasonably efficient burn

Dual fuel absolutely the liquid used was what was interesting.

Ah, pick a part Wingate. Spent countless hours there once upon a time. Geez, have not seen a V3000 in years. I remember the MOT used to have black and white patrol cars in wellington when they were new. I also remember there was a car getting around with the number plate MOTSUX. This was just before they merged with the police.

Wednesday night, people. Don't forget

Would an overtightened cambelt whine hard like pingin gilliez?

So I ordered some new OEM HT leads ex Japan, imagine my surprise when they finally turned up and this was printed on them: Mazda must have changed suppliers in the last ~25 years, hah. Mildly annoyed they are blue instead of factory orange (to match the turbo hat and radiator fan) but I guess beggars can't really be choosers. One odd paradigm I noticed when swapping over was that the trailing leads have switched back from stud-type to solid tip terminals (thereby rendering this previous post completely academic). I'd had the foresight to order some more BR9EQ-14 plugs from Rockauto while they were US$1.18 each on clearance, so installed a pair of these with the solid tips now attached. You can see the two new bright red coils at bottom left, hah. Now the car pulls to redline better and runs smoother than ever (probably the best it's ever been), and even started with no issues since it was last driven in January, so I'm somewhat happy. Discussion: http://oldschool.co....showtopic=27846

Just take it to Tim at TTT. its not Rocket Surgery or Brain Science.

It failed compliance on a broken door release cable. There's a surprising amount of DIY resources like workshop manuals, parts catalogues, and forum guides on these, thankfully. The wheels are directional - the thick side of the spoke is supposed to be towards the front. At some point, someone has mixed up the rear wheels. It came with this lush briefcase of Ferrari paint tin lid openers and some flat tyre wind with an F40 on the can. It's quite low. Doors are amusingly thick. Supermarket car parks might be tricky. It feels really strange sitting so inboard of the edge of the car.

As Murphy's law would have it, just after I bought the Vantage, a tidy 348 came up for sale in Japan. It's quite rare to find a TB (solid roof). Most that come up are TS (Targa top). It's also quite rare to find one in such original condition out of Japan. Heaps of them have horrific aftermarket racing bucket seats, sports steering wheels, multicoloured dashboards, weird wheels etc. One thing that has been done is the sills and bottom of the bumpers has been painted red, which is how I prefer, rather than the original black of the early 348s and Testarossas. From what I can gather, it's a very early (1989) car, first registered in 1991. It also appears to be USDM spec with all the extra little rectangular reflectors. All the buyers guides say to buy as late a 348 as possible because they'd ironed out a lot of the issues by the later ones. I bought about as early as they come. Oh well. A familiar sight.

Sweet! I was going to ask about the seatpost/rails - looks mint. Internally routing the cables is a cool idea, how much of a mission was it to get them in/out at the correct spot?

You're a wizard, harry.

Here is a photo of a not so jacked gloria wagon. 50mm blocks in the back and kawasaki special springs up front. sills are pretty much spot on level but looks whack as front guard opening is so big. would like the front a touch lower at some point but this will do for now. Next is wheels, either 15s or 16s to help fill the guards. not much room in the back so wont be anything cray cray //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41006-beavers-87-gloria-wagon/page-6

I'd run their own power supply. Screw relying on the factory wiring for that.

fuck, having mega flashbacks from the breadbin and all the other wackness going on here. A+++ yuck/awesome.

http://www.machineofmayhem.com/box-house-part-4/

I've been thinking about importing some of this, and see how it works for some automotive stuffs: http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html Might make my floor near the exhaust a bit cooler / keep intake manifold from heat soaking perhaps. Possible start of an obsession with various engine bay temperatures, hhhnnnggg HPC on the exhaust manifold would probably be 90% of the battle done with though.