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Stay in school. Don't do drugs. Although, I'm currently unemployed, and I just unwisely spent/invested a good chunk of house deposit money on a 27 year old car so I'm probably not a very good role model. Also, to put it in perspective, 348s and Vantages only cost about the same as a double cab SR5 Hilux with a few options so you definitely don't need to be a millionaire.

Cleaning up the choke helped a lot, still didn't want to idle below 1000rpm, found there is another little adjustment screw tucked away near the end of the linkage. Backed that off 1.5 turns now the idle adjuster goes from not running when backed out up to 2500rpm fully wound in. Replaced all the vac lines and it's running fucking awesome now, idles smooth at 750.

Don't have kids and go contracting.

Petes career advice: Sportscars, not Auckland houses.

Preempting barry chats when filling up

^that should be enough to pay for some insurance.

Oh, just remembered I got to see a guy, about a thing on that day........

It's a type of mag wheel maaayte

I was joking! the thread is going nowhere, conclusion was made that even though it's fine to move the rack sideways it's illegal. It's up to the OP now not a Barry pissing contest.

Do your own homework before you write off my statements as "Rubbish" please.

Those ridiculously wide doors on the Fez are to mask some sort of cooling system gubbins from what I've read. You should go pick up that sheila from The Bachelor NZ in it. She's on the rebound and would probably swoon.

I had some free time so decided to adjust the odometer on the replacement manual instrument cluster to the same reading as my original odometer. Here is the replacement manual instrument cluster: And here is the Km's it reads: How many K's my car/cluster have done: Flipped over and starting to open it: This thing is the speed chime which making a sound when you exceed 100Km/h (roughly). Plastic cover removed: Interior cover removed: Some kind of really weird effect I noticed on the inside, like Lichtenberg figures: Speedo/odo removed: Odo separated from speedo: In order to adjust the reading the barrel/stack had to be removed: Cleaning it up: 178812Km: To remove the barrel two small plastic tabs? had to be broken, it fit back without any issues however to make sure it doesn't fall out over hard bumps I applied a little epoxy: Housing cleaned up: At this point I had everything back together except the speed chime. It had quite a bit of surface rust which I wanted to clean up: So I used electrolysis to clean it up a little: Bubbles are hydrogen and oxygen so don't leave this overnight in a confined space: All done: By the way, hes a short video I made of the speed chime in operation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A8TZjLPuE-s Finally reassembled and on the bench till testing: Oh and here is a slightly more artistic shot I took with my other camera, just because I thought it would look cool:

SHIT YARNS GUYS

Mayte I'm in it for the turbo. Wats a turbo?

You had him at "easy on the eyes"

he has more experience than books man.

No offence intended mate but after reading your thread all I can say is I'm impressed with your obvious fab skill (love your project) but you need to ditch the LVVA lapdog persona. The LVVA is a self perpetuating "old boys whiskey club" whose primary agenda is justifying their own existence. It's the guys on the front line doing the certifying who are trying to ensure the safety of modified vehicles on NZ roads. (Give credit where credit's due).

So the panels have been rubbed down and the colour made, It was hard to get a good photo of the colour with the booth lights and a shitty cell phone camera, will try remember to take some proper pics with my camera when I get it home. So that's not me ^^ i'd actually use a mask when spraying poison into the air I'm breathing, also the colour is as mentioned above not shown very well here it looks more brown than it actually is. So the plan is tomorrow, paint the red and the black bits and then bring it home for reassembly in the weekend. Also when I have photos I'll mention how the front of the draw didn't work out quite how I would have liked I'll also have a go at using a razor blade to tidy up the gaps on the body where the paint has bridged a little, if I can't get that to look tidy I may try a very fine black pin stripe over all the joins.

I bet poor Mick Freeman gets blamed for a lot of shit.

I can't help with much else but don't even some 90s coil packs still have condensers? I had 4g93 coil packs on my gemini and I'm positive it had a condenser (or atleast something that looked like one) on it

I'm only going to come if I find an LED / LCD TV on the side of the road like last time. I got $230 for it. Going there or coming back, I don't care.

pics

Haha the internet doesn't put sarcasm across very well

I'm not arguing that, just saying it ain't cool to call BS on my facts when they are well founded

isnt this the generation with the autochoke that gums up inside and out ? if so often the suplementry idleup unit for a/c & p/s wont be engaging cause choke still on a bit ...... worth checking what choke is doing before you go much further anyway cause that may explain the high idle you are trying to adjust/bend into submission too ! also check basics like timing and vacuum leaks sooner rather than later , good luck

Can probably do that. Send me a PM

When I took the car for the first test drive after the HG fix things didn't feel right, stumbling at cruise and slightly rough off the line, in a fit of rage (drawn out over a week or so) I prepped the twin carb manifold and swapped the dellortos back in, cos if i'm going to mess with carbs, i'm going to mess with carbs worth fiddling with! Ultimately i'm sure the issues were just gasket/ airleak related and would have been an easy fix but where's the fun in that! I now have a nice sounding engine tuning is a tiny bit off but I need to remove the battery to get at the ports to check balance between front and rear but it drives, and knowing the rings really need to be done I can't complain too much! Dort on And because picture less updates suck, here's a stag on the alpine fault near big bay to chew up your data:

I assume you mean LHS? I meant to comment on it when I put up the photo. It's the fuel filler flap release handle. When you want to fill up, you have to pop the bonnet/boot/back bonnet/venetian blind(?) to access the filler release handle.

Just buy a Citroen

reminds me of venetian blinds, basically my house is a ferrari

3 more new posts above tonight ^ Fitment of the freshly chromed bumper and tail light bases, and rear trim etc First wedding for my mate, was best man so mrs drove the bridal party in it Talk among yourselfs //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34313-the-westpala/page-9

Also re nuteral on downhills. Most obd1/2 cars will cut fuel on deceleration so you could use more having engine idling while coasting

Nah you can keep your Dutch card, because on average the fuel consumption by your 7 vehicles is SFA....

I've found doing skids is detrimental to fuel economy...

what clint is saying, is to rub a bit of dirt on it while the paint is still wet.

Hi, figured i better get some pics up of the daily hack, (to brokenarse poor to get something 'respectable).Spending most of the time & money driving & fixing it- + buying random shit i may not end up using in it. A pic of the weedy little slug that motivates it, a rousing 45 ponies @ 5000 revs when it was on the rollers a while ago, has a wee bit more coz i've been fiddling @ a pic of what we want to stuff inside it, top crank is avenger bottom is........ toyota. Why? why not i like the idea of it looking relatively standard, AND its a 20mm stroke increase- 1500 out to @ 2L is the plan Discussion Thread

Here it is nearly finished, after this it made some bull bars for the front and fitted a towbar to the back - then just drove it whenever I could. cars098 cars097 cars096 For those interested in old trucks - the front bumper was taken off a 50's Dennis truck (ex council rubbish truck) seen in the background of the picture of me sitting in it.

Snow skid vid plz That weld splatter next to fuel popper....?! Doesn't Ferrari have Ferrari cows for Ferrari leather for extra ferrari$$,

From what I've seen/heard, the balance pipe gives it the typical V8 rumbley sound, twin pipes sound like two four cylinders..

what is unsafe about moving the rack housing sideways? nothing, the system is in the wrong. the older i get the more i prefer to continue to be a criminal than be involved in this farce.

Yes I know it's wrong model etc but still Vid of grass road side skid please

As Murphy's law would have it, just after I bought the Vantage, a tidy 348 came up for sale in Japan. It's quite rare to find a TB (solid roof). Most that come up are TS (Targa top). It's also quite rare to find one in such original condition out of Japan. Heaps of them have horrific aftermarket racing bucket seats, sports steering wheels, multicoloured dashboards, weird wheels etc. One thing that has been done is the sills and bottom of the bumpers has been painted red, which is how I prefer, rather than the original black of the early 348s and Testarossas. From what I can gather, it's a very early (1989) car, first registered in 1991. It also appears to be USDM spec with all the extra little rectangular reflectors. All the buyers guides say to buy as late a 348 as possible because they'd ironed out a lot of the issues by the later ones. I bought about as early as they come. Oh well. A familiar sight.

That's where it very much comes down to the particular engine. Probably less of an issue on modern VVTI motors buutttt The relevant term here is BSFC (Brake Specific Fuel Consumption) Basically an engine has a sweet spot where it makes the most amount of power, for the least amount of fuel used. (Based on both rpm and vacuum) So the closer you can get to your engines point of best BSFC the better. However since they generally dont give end users a BSFC map with your car your best bet is just to check with OBD2 or whatever. Looking at this example here, the best power for fuel used would be found by holding the engine at the smallest "island" Not sure what this graph is for but maybe a generator or something that's designed to just be held at max load at 1500rpm. Some car engine BSFC maps that I've seen will have the "island" at say 2/3rds throttle and 4000rpm or something like that. On a VVT engine you'll find that the lines are further apart because it holds better efficiency through more operating conditions. So 3rd or 4th gear might be in the same efficiency region.

Just make sure you're in 4th or 5th gear to get best Litres per skid kilometer.

By all means please do! Get a link to run it, I'll help you tune it. Then I can pass the baton to the next generation of people using a Carina to draw pointless graphs on the internet.

Got most of the interior in now carpets,seats,belts, etc And multi point efi manifold arrived from auzzie this morning, brought from rhubarb77 ( thanks heaps) Next is to get the die grinder out and modify the inlet ports on the head to fit the injectors, assemble head, fit head, collect clutch kit and fit gearbox and finally drop her in! Hopefully within a couple more weeks

Yesterday I took the Niva for a short drive, upon starting to head home she decided to have a throwback to the 1800s and billowed steam out the exhaust, with not a bucket of coal to be seen I took this as a bad sign and shut down. Removing the plugs for a look showed coolant in #4 so I left the plug out and made a noisey crawl home. pulled the plugs again this morning for a look and found this: not a good sign! So head off and hope that its the gasket and the head doesn't need machining as it was on its last legs last time I had it planed.... Lada/Fiat gods please smile on my modest wheels.......

ok so i havent had much time lately but i wanted to try the whole rust vs vinegar thing and it actually works this was my first go left it over night then gave it a quick wire brush. gave it a coat of paint then i realised i had forgot the overflow tank cap face palm but that one cleaned up even better worked well on bolts aswell

There is minor rust coming through the rear of the front guards but nothing major. I think there has been a rust demolition in the tail sill and hatch near the key button but For interior the seats need a bit of love. but hood lining, door cards, dash and carpets are mint Unsure of touch ups on the guards but nothing noticeable. There is minor rust in the front guards coming through and I'm fairly sure the rear hatch sill has been replaced or repaired in the past but nothing new coming up through there. I'll get it on the road and drive it until the rust bothers me too much then do a full scorched earth approach on the rust before a repaint to match the original paint in the engine bay.