tim13

Overheating is usually either really obvious what's wrong or a total nightmare ! I use an digital infrared thermometer to confirm whether it is actually overheating or a guage issue ? Then if it is overheating you can find if there is a localized hot or cool spot to give you a clue whats up . some interesting things to find include internally bypassing radiators , water pumps with wrong impeller trying to pump the wrong way and more of a new car issue air locks , good luck dude , hope it's easier to fix than it is to find ......

just had a read of this and build thread and wondering if you have checked spark at plugs fuel at rail and pulse at injectors ? you prob have but it may help with our virtual diagnosis

na , 40's work great on a cammed L28 , will even run a 3.1 , absolute top end is the only area you would lose on but flexibility , throttle response and mid-range would be better than 45/8's

thats a tough roll of the health dice ! look after yourself dude ........ some of your symptoms (yours sounds worse !) sound like my medical adventure late last year (viral encephalitus , random viral blood infection which made my brain swell) pretty much back to normal now so hope you get through it quickly too

glad injector did the trick mine had jamex's and big rear swaybar was really happy with height , feel and handling (they were in it when I got it and had settled till not captive at all fyi) only cars I have ever regreted selling are AE82's

has been sitting a while maybe clutch stuck to flywheel ?

hmmm thats unusual , they fitted two because at least one is missing , broken or stuck from new . so yours is unoriginal/modified ...... don't people usually fit toyota boxes .......

I thought the p38 4.6 would be cheaper/easier/better than the old 4.4 these days ?

not sure if it will help but I recently had a car that with no plates etc just chassis number and they could track through that , it got interesting because we knew the car had been road legal here but the chassis number (as stamped on the car) wasn't on file ! as we eventually found out it was because it had been miss-entered when new (car was a 1999) we got a helpful person a vtnz who figured it out , I have since found I could enter chassis number into carjam and figure it out that way too , carjam as many different variations of chassis number (0 for o , 5 and s i and 1 etc . in my case they had reversed some numbers 123 instead of 231) and see what you find , good luck !

agree with trying a different guage mechanical if possible (infared thermometers are also good for checking which bits are hot where blockages are etc) , if guage is electric can also be voltage related , regulator , alternator etc

another thought on your tyre drama , given it is not a common size are they just old and hard ? check date codes on sidewall maybe different factory does tread rubber feel different to your other ones ? this is first bad feedback on T1rs I have heard , I know a few people who have loved them as a combined road/track compromise too

you tried different pressures ? in my experiences with T1rs they liked lots more pressure than some other brands (5-10 psi more , up to max rec on sidewall) cheaper than more tyres nitto do that size in semi-slick which everyone I know who has tried them loves , good luck

it is always possible to adjust manually , it needs to be cause auto adjusters dont always adjust .... automatically , the 'baking' approach is average at best and is more suited to oil/brakefluid contaminated linings , good luck

pull other drum scuff shoes and drum with emery (sandpaper for engineers) adjust brake to suit and should be sweet

it is good practice to replace shoes and both cylinders , BUT , what you have done/are doing will be fine in most cases (life left in shoes no other leaks or seized parts , both cyls same size)