Leaderboard

Alex has wanted one of these wagons for ages. We had a MK2 version in England and it was a lovely car - really comfortable and very useful. They are thoroughly modern cars and very underrated/undervalued. Anyway, earlier this year a MK1 wagon was posted up for sale here: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43810-someone-save-this-triumph-2000-mk1-wagon/?hl=%2Btriumph+%2Bwagon and Alex decided to buy it. Then somehow it became my car and "a good first project on which to practice my welding skills" (thanks, Alex!). We were ridiculously busy sorting out our new property so the car sat in a field near Woodend for a few more months then last Friday we braved the holiday traffic and did a day-trip to collect the car using avengertiger's Izuzu as a tow vehicle (thank you Dave). We arrived and got stuck in pumping up the tyres. One of them had a puncture so we had to retrieve the spare. Look at all the goodies we emptied out of the boot: Including a brand new wing and bonnet! After a bit of shuffling using we had the car on the trailer and were back on the road Now the car is in our new workshop we have been assessing the good and bad points: The good bits - amazingly the headlining is mint The car is also pretty much complete with the added bonus of two spare bonnets, a full set of doors (from a saloon but could be modified to suit), a wing, a spare overdrive gearbox and most of the trim. The bad bits - lots of rust and disintegrated rubber. Plus the engine is most likely stuffed. It's definitely all repairable but will take lots of time. I'm determined to do everything myself with a bit of guidance from Alex (it's his turn to be the assistant). My aim is to have it road legal by Nats 2016. I'll be on the look-out for a replacement engine (2.5) plus power-steering set-up but there's no hurry as the rust repairs are going to keep me very busy. It's going to be such a cool car - I'm very excited.

I'm probably going to onsell the 16's, because I don't really know why I even bought them. Anywhoo. The others. I found these on Yahoo a week before I actually picked up the car, and at that stage decided I absolutely HAD to own them. Owing to the cavernous dimensions of the arches, you can fit a fair whack of wheel and tyre under a 944. Now Porsche's, for all intents and purposes come in 2 different offsets dependant on age. Early and late (well, duuhhh). Being an '87 model (post ABS) this car features the late offset, so basically anything post 1989 fitted to a 911 or Boxtser or otherwise was going to be within cooee. Since there is a large population of Porsche in Japan, and Japan makes the raddest wheels Yahoo offered the best selection. So I bought this set of Work Meister S1, for an absolute steal. Sizing is 18x8.5 et41 front and 18x10 et45 rear. The gold is going, there is some corrosion beneath the (non factory) paint, I plan to have these sprayed a champagne sorta colour, maybe with a touch of flake for that sunny day pop. Naturally I was wetting my strides with excitement so I applied timber and tried them on for size. IMG_7035 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_7046 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_7061 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_7065 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr You couldn't really ask for a better fit. IMG_7067 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_7069 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr I reckon the above is going to be the moneyshot angle once these are on and the appropriate ride height is settled. IMG_7073 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr You can fit an SSR Mk3 13x7" wheel inside an 18x10 inch Work Meister S1, just in case you are wondering.

This is my vk holden rep me and the old man built got all the good stuff as u do when building a car 350 holden injected block with sta supercharger kit link ecu water meth kit etc makes 401 kw at 10 psi getrag 5 speed lsd diff bilstein shocks 17" corvette rims painted brock blue with body kit car was a 75000km car with blue interior //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46539-d0dgees-vk-holden-brock-rep/

Also for the first time ever Bex looked at the car (a first for any car I have owned) and went "damn that looks good."

Needs a engine to heat it really a 4k or similar could use exhaust for sweet carbon monoxide bubbles.

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46536-hannahs-1968-triumph-mk1-wagon-estate-restoration/ Fuck yeah, I'm lichen that. Don't let that scurvy Alex chap start hogging all the limelight! Keen to see how you get on with this, no doubt you'll quickly surpass all of my automotive skills in this one build. Sweet that you've got that shed to have it sitting in now too. Are you thinking low on steels or low on slots? Or jacked on modgies?

Ok so let's do this aaaannd if we still want a drive in movie night then we have a factory available for use but it needs to be soon, like in three weeks soon. Power and toilets no prob. Will require though a projector, screen and movie. Plenty of room to swing your dick around and for cars to be parked inside.

This car will be so so rad. And holy hell it looks right at home in your monster shed. I'm keen for a nosy at Des' place too, I bought a few odds and ends off the old joker when I was still pissing around with Trumps. Maybe I should buy another Trump.

This thread is frustrating.

Quality read, A+ would read again.

was sucking some crazy hot air with bonnet back on, so air box jumped to top of the list. couldn't find much to make an airbox from when sifting though all my crap, other than stock air box. it was far from fitting and way too restrictive, so as usual, cut it up was a bit of a dick to get it to fit, as running out of room in engine bay. (yeah yeah i don't know how that happened ) plus bonnet did not want to close

SHE KNOWS, JIM SHE KNOWS

Yeah Im keen on that too and Im sure Hannah will be too as she'll need some bits and bobs. I'm really glad she is starting with an easy restoration to learn the ropes on.. so with that said I think I'll just put this here...

Rad Hannah. Bring to Wagnats a month before Nats next year and tour around between the two of them.

Kia Ora! My method of fixing up my failing cooling system. I went on a road trip over new years and my started motor crapped out. To have a look at the starter the headers have to be taken off. When I got them off i noticed that one of the welsh/frost/core plugs was leaking. Now I already new that the radiator was on its last legs/the core was rotting/tanks leaking and a heater hose needed replacing so I figured it was a good time for a cooling system overhaul. I went to a radiator shop for a quote and they said $275 for a new core with modified second hand tanks fitted. Not wanting second hand stuff and I new I could get cheaper, I was looking down the road of retro fitting an ally rad. I picked up a "half sized" civic alloy rad from Scarles for $130. Obviously, to make it fit will require some brackets made up and also some fan modifications. As well as the new rad, I've taken out the old welch plugs (no. 3 cylinder was the leaking one and I found no. 4 cylinders' was very close to castisrophically failing) and chucked the garden hose down there to flush all the crap out. Turned out I needed a pick and some wire to get rid of the rust and sludge from around the no. 4 cylinder. I don't think any anti-freeze had been used for quite some time. Anyway, the radiator install so far..... The old rad, notice the "soft" core on the lower left and right where it has started rotting. The new rad compared to the old. The alloy rad is a 3 core and here's hoping that a new alloy rad with an electric fan will be good enough to keep it cool. I made up some wicked CAD (the old cardboard-aided-design trick) templates to allow the rad to mounted in the factory location. I'm using 4mm think ally sheet and will get some L shaped supports welded on to stop any flex. Beacuse I'm using the smaller rad and its completely different the factory shroud wont be anygood so the old clutch fan is coming out. I have a spare 12" electric fan off my GT4 project that I shall be using. I will have to make up a switch for the fan and I don't really want a manual switch on the dash so I'm going to make an automatic switch using google knowledge to help me. I've found a wiring diagram to use and I've just bought a "Thermometer relay control module with probe" off Trademe. I just need to get a relay and fuse holder and I will be away laughing. I put an order through BnT today for all the welch plugs, gaskets and bit and bobs so hopefully should see the end result by the weekend.

here is a pic of my f100 I have been working on over the last 6 months. got it wofed and reged the other day. would be keen to come to some of the meets in the wellington and get to see some other peoples opinions of it. Discussion Thread Cheers James

Surprised this hasn't been brought up yet! But anyway, this years instalment of the annual NZFMR is looming, set to take place over 2 weekends at Hampton Downs raceway - January 17th-18th and January 24-25th. This year the event is focused on the career of Howden Ganley, a noted NZ single seater ace and particularly successful in Formula 5000 cars. As such, there are over 50 F5000's attending the event, as well as at least half a dozen Formula 1 cars! Supporting classes include Historic Muscle Cars, Sports Sedans, Heritage Touring Cars, Under 3l Saloons, Sports Cars, Formula Junior/F3, Classic Trials, BMW racing etc etc. dependant on weekend. http://www.nzfmr.co.nz/index.php Full details in the link!!! I'll be attending on the 17th, as well as the 24th and 25th so hope to see some of you there! Pics of stuff you might see at NZFMR: IMG_8063 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_9395 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_1494 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr IMG_1590 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

The nosecone has been removed: Apart from the expected surface rust and the one patch of serious rust which needs welding in the left corner, the structure is sound. The nosecone will be refitted as it is. It's tidy enough for now. I also fitted these: As you can see, there is nothing but air where the brake master cylinder used to reside. I dropped it off to be re-sleeved and am expecting it to be ready before the end of the week. Then I can finally test the brakes. Or more like test to see which other parts of the braking system are leaking..

Most of that is from the leading edge of the bonnet you scoundrel and you've another of those.

No idea, as it turns out they won't fit due to the way the 944 hub center sticks out a bit too much. A 5mm spacer would solve it. Thanks though folks. I am rapt it's sorta coming together as visualised.

Shit son. Pics 4 and 5 tickle me the right way! Looking hot.

Wow. Just wow

Oh my, that looks very, very tasty.

there isn't a spec for feets on seats _ would depend on how long it is and the design of it and how fat you are. but if its just a couple of _/ shaped things from the seat rail to the floor then probably 25x8mm flat bar or similar, smaller if you can gusset it, etc

Today, the container from Japan arrived. Inside were a couple of sets of wheels. The first set are these 16's from a 964 Carrera 2. Commonly known as 16" 'Cup' alloys they're relatively sought after and pretty light for an OEM cast wheel. Pirelli P-Zero tyres a nice bonus, the 225's on the 8" wheels are in top nick but the 205's on the fronts a little dicey with some cracking. IMG_7054 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr Unmarked condition. Absolutely immaculate. Also seen in slightly different form on 968's. IMG_7060 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr

tidied the oil line, sorry for the break down on Sunday's cruise...

Draftsight will allow you to open and edit them. Although you dont need the editing ability it is the best program for the job. You will be able to measure things if needed too http://www.3ds.com/products-services/draftsight-cad-software/free-download/#xtor=AD-508-[swfreetools]-[middle]-[intext]-[www.solidworks.com]

170kw. I am running rose joints with parallel arms and a panhard rod. I did it because I had problems with axle tramp and wheel alignment with the factory arms/bushes. I also tried poly bushes at both ends(I thought the rose joints were shagged, but it was diff noise), then it was pointed out that they were so stiff, the diff could only go up and down but not twist, so I went back to rose joints. I like the direct feel. No problems with mounts cracking. Noisy as in a stripped car though. I get a lot of noise transmission from the LSD. But racecar, so who cares.

I don't get any binding throughout the travel of my diff with the t3 4 links fwiw. But have only test fitted and moved the diff through its range of motion whilst on axle stands. If I don't like rose joints then I'll change it later but for now, rock on.

50mm if it's opaque, and 100mm if it's see though.

aww so pine, there must be less than half a dozen mk1 wags left on the road, thats rare as rocking horse shit. Even mk2 wags are thin on the ground. I have an array of spare bits if you need stuff but you do live in NZ triumph heaven. Good good for nats, im going to tee up a visit of Des Faraleys graveyard of like 200 triumphs in Tauranga, appraently the old codger gives you a guided tour, im guessing youd be keen for this? PS giz me spare gearbox, my od solenoid isnt returning.

strewth! thats cool shame i cant dish up multiple likes on this cos I would

Who actually rebuilt this motor? Are we talking a full rebuild, or just a head gasket? I feel like there is more to the story here.

Today I went into full-on Mr Bean mode Drove like this all the way from Albany to Westgate, she was mint. Bungee cords are bloody handy. Also went out into the paddock and took some photos the other day, turned out quite nice with the sun setting behind some trees and whatnot! Now my new years' resolution is to try and sort out the interior of the car, as it's currently a combination of black Mk1 trim (not original for the car) and some 1980's mini seats, in combination with some pretty average bluey-black carpet which looks a bit pants. New interior bits will probably just mean a lot of money though, so it might have to wait a while!

Just in case my blathering above didnt make sense, here's some more nonsense to ruin the pictorial part of your brain also: Basically... there are 6 axes of movement rotation which a joint potentially needs to do. Rotation on XY, XZ, and YZ planes. Then movement in the X, Y, and Z directions. Rubber pretty much allows all of the above to occur. When the bushes get more worn out, they allow even more XYZ movement. Generally when replacing rubber the idea is to reduce the 'slop' (X Y and Z movement, which makes it feel like the car wobbles on the diff) Different 4 link ends restrict different axes in different ways, a Rosejoint restricts down to the three rotational axes and removes all XYZ movement. On my car, the upper 4 links (non triangulated) have cutouts in the rubber bushes to allow increased movement in the X axis but keep the Y and Z axes stiff. However the point of contention is whether or not the end of a 4 link arm needs to allow for X axis movement on a triangulated 4 link. Theoretically the answer is yes, and some peoples broken floors and worn out rosejoints say yes as well.

I could here a rumbling coming from the engine bay. Flicked the fan belts off and found the air con pulley bearing was super noisy. Seeing as the A/C has no gas anyway that belt can stay off for now. The alternator bearing was a bit noisy too so I whipped the alt out. Replaced the front bearing and the brushes. The rear bearing is a needle roller bearing and was sweet. The battery cable from the alt has lost some of the insulation and had some tape on it, so I splashed out on some brand new insul tape. No expense spared. Success

Sunday arvo meet???

Wednesday the 14th?

Beaver got any piccys?? Edit not of naked men..

My stupid front seats weigh about 10 billion billion kilograms (well, about 15-20kg each) I pulled one apart to see if there were any hidden gold bars, but alas. There's about 4-5kg worth of complete junk in there for adjusting every little seat thing possible though. Think I'll just weld the adjuster thingies all solid except for the seat angle and headrest height and biff all of the stupid shit in there. I didnt even know some of the things in it were even adjustable. Saving ~5kg per seat though is pretty swish. My usual welding technique is: 1. Stick weld it 2. horrible failure 3. Sentra Dave tells me off 4. Drink his beer while he fixes my blunders Oooorrr I might try get the argon bottle refilled this week so I can make blobs and holes with tig instead.

One good thing about the car is that the mechanicals have always ben serviced and no expense spared. The 1700c Motor pulls hard and was previous used to tow the last owners boat. The main area of the car I will be improving is the exterior paint - many dings and dents and a few patches of rust starting to bubble through.

So turns out red car was the one that turned over. The floor is rotten but not beyond repair as the sills are solid. After some head scratching I replaced some bits and bobs (dizzy, leads, plugs, points, condensor etc) And bugger me she fired up! Only had it running for a few seconds as it was off gas I poured into carb. I've got some fuel line so I'll hopefully video some running tomorrow. This thing has been sitting for 42 years!!! I also took some CLR to the body and then waxed it, got rid of heaps of surface rust, it's rocking some bad ass patina now. Some before shots : After a CLR and wax : Pretty happy with how that turned out. Keen to just roll it as is. Discussion thread here : //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45928-stylez-59-borgward-hansa-kombis-discussion/

Casual update. got rego , (shit I love vintage rego, 59 dollars for 6 months after not having it on hold for 1 year and nine months haha) so yeah, made it over the hill to masterton and back, using all the available stopping bays etc haha I don't actually remember it being quite so bad on hills, I guess those twin port 1600 motors actally do go a bit betterer than the bettle 1500 lol. will still keep my mind set on rebuilding the original at some point. was good to be camping in it again, bit more space than a wagon etc. So the only issue I had, was I managed to gorget to turn my compressor switch off on the way home. now it seems it wont work. was cold when I stopped and figured it out. which I guess means it may have seized up. will pull it out and do some test. fingures crossed that it just has a trip switch I can reset or something. anyone know where I can buy pressure switches from? I assume just a compressor shop like ash air or something? anyway. heres a pic of camping spec. once again thanks to Alltorque for fitting my wof in short notice

so yea took the valiant for another drive and done a skid. brakes are still dumb so i pulled them apart to find not much of the shoes left on the front so il wait till the local shop is open again go price up so new shoes. also got a website for drop spindles from a fellow member so waiting till those shops are open as well so i can find out prices/order some. i dont see the point of pulling this apart to put new shoes to buy the spindles 2-3 months down the track to pull them apart again. so i SOAKED!!! everything in WD40 and will continue to do that later today to make sure everything is well and truly soaked and easy to pull apart when i get into it. also done some weight reduction and cleaned some dirt out while i was at it. left side right side the wheel bearings looked good so il just jam some new grease in with them when everything gets assembled again. think thats that for now.

Should have bought an S2.

Photoless update, but the wagoon is fully road legal. I've also started scrubbing the interior clean, have added an alarm and central locking + wired it up for speakers. The coolant system was a mess! Chick full of rusty poos, so ran it with 3 cups of soda crystals for a few days, flushed it out and fitted a new cap (old one didn't fit/seal), now running it for a few more days with more crystals, new hoses and thermostat to follow! Going to start polishing up the wheels in the next few days, so pics to come when I make some progress there! Reckon paint stripper would hurt the window monsoon trim things? Mine have been introduced to Mathew Black at some point. /kinda pointless update! so inspiration: