Testament Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 16 hours ago, peteretep said: why would you say thinner material for stainless steel? with steel sch40/standard weight/medium is generally thicker than what would be needed but its generally the most common so cheap and easily available. sch10 is more common for stainless, because as stainless doesn't corrode much at all you don't need to allow for that so you get away with a thinner material when designing pressure piping. so basically for price and availability, not due to material properties or engineering reasons. @Vintage Grumble may be able to assist? or know an Auckland colleague whos hands could be shandied? otherwise yeah, steel and tube, HJ asmuss, maybe blackwoods paykels? or any general engineering supply place that supplies industrial welding stuff should either have or be able to tell you to go see xyz and tell them so and so sent you. just make sure you tell them you are using it to build a sweet turbo plymouth/valiant and they should hook you up if they are any kind of proper barry engineering supplier with girly calendars and drag racing and speedboat posters. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 16 hours ago, cletus said: Steam pipe bends and pipe and stuff for making turbo manifolds Where is the best place to purchase in Auckland? May i suggest you splash out on a nice investment cast merge collector. The WORST thing with diy turbo manifolds is sorting the collector. They are actually not badly priced given the quality and time savings. I think my bends were about 5 bucks a pop from fletchers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 How many cylinders? 4cyl are easy enough but any more than that and it's better to get the pipe laser cut for perfect fitment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 Or just get some T sections and make a log manifold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 13, 2017 Share Posted October 13, 2017 On 12/10/2017 at 21:18, peteretep said: hmm, I see. this one does not go hard what is this I am reading about changing cam belts every 65000km or 3 years, what kind of garbo I vaguely recall there being a revision to the cambelt service life. IIRC they were originally 120,000km untill they kept snapping, so they shortened the life to 80k or so and then later to 65k. If I'm thinking of the correct vehicle, that is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Calling electronic buffs Im currently sorting through issues on a townace truck I bought. One of them is an erratic temp gauge. It only works usually if you give the cluster a tap. When its working it appears accurate. I have pulled the cluster apart assuming it has a dry solder joint somewhere, so going to clean up any contacts and go over all solder with ba gun. However there are also a couple of resistors on the board it's attached to. Would I be best to replace these also? Based on how it operates when its working it seems fine, and that it takes a tap to make it work, I would assume not. However just want to be sure. Also is there anything else I should take into consideration? The way it works is a coil with what I assume is a magnet or something in the middle. And yeah. That's my story. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 Yeah sounds like dry joints on the voltage regulator I wouldn't bother Changing the resistors as they are unlikely to be a point of failure You can very carefully clean up the pivot point as they can get gunk in there or grinding dust if it's a magnetic type, and check that the gauge face is sitting nicely as that can also catch 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted October 17, 2017 Share Posted October 17, 2017 How do you choose a base jet size to start from? Just picked up a 32/36 from a kindly chap on here, which was on an A12 or A14 or something. I'm guessing that it'll need bigger jets to suit my Z24. Would 135/140 be a good starting point for a 2.4L, low compression, low rpm engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Where would I find a top hose # ch1312 or 050413 by tommrow morning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
66gt Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 1 hour ago, SOHC said: Where would I find a top hose # ch1312 or 050413 by tommrow morning? What's it For? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Google says a Volvo 240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 yes, there seem to be none in nz, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Where would I find some little 8" trailer rims like this in nz ? http://www.loadstartrailertires.com/Boat-Trailer-Tire-480-x-8-on-Galvanized-Wheel-5-Lug-Rim-590lb-by-Loadstar_p_34.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 On 20/10/2017 at 20:37, SOHC said: yes, there seem to be none in nz, Rockauto.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 25 minutes ago, SOHC said: Where would I find some little 8" trailer rims like this in nz ? http://www.loadstartrailertires.com/Boat-Trailer-Tire-480-x-8-on-Galvanized-Wheel-5-Lug-Rim-590lb-by-Loadstar_p_34.html Rex or Wheelco perhaps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 Is it ok to replace a 8-tooth starter with a 10-tooth on a vq30de? Some googling suggests it is done this way with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 On 10/24/2017 at 21:45, SOHC said: Where would I find some little 8" trailer rims like this in nz ? http://www.loadstartrailertires.com/Boat-Trailer-Tire-480-x-8-on-Galvanized-Wheel-5-Lug-Rim-590lb-by-Loadstar_p_34.html Do they need to be 5 stud? http://www.trailerpartsnz.com/product_info.php/tyre-rim-inch-5375-bolt-p-2449 Haven't checked brands at the top: http://www.trailerpartsnz.com/index.php/trailer-wheels-tyres-c-23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 13 hours ago, Bling said: Do they need to be 5 stud? http://www.trailerpartsnz.com/product_info.php/tyre-rim-inch-5375-bolt-p-2449 Haven't checked brands at the top: http://www.trailerpartsnz.com/index.php/trailer-wheels-tyres-c-23 They need to be 5 stud or they wont fit my hubs, I will check those places out, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 On 10/17/2017 at 23:21, Sambo said: How do you choose a base jet size to start from? Just picked up a 32/36 from a kindly chap on here, which was on an A12 or A14 or something. I'm guessing that it'll need bigger jets to suit my Z24. Would 135/140 be a good starting point for a 2.4L, low compression, low rpm engine? have you got it going yet? i have one of these that was on a running l28 that you can have. is corroded a bit, but the jets might be close? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 On 17/10/2017 at 21:44, Seedy Al said: Calling electronic buffs Im currently sorting through issues on a townace truck I bought. One of them is an erratic temp gauge. It only works usually if you give the cluster a tap. When its working it appears accurate. I have pulled the cluster apart assuming it has a dry solder joint somewhere, so going to clean up any contacts and go over all solder with ba gun. However there are also a couple of resistors on the board it's attached to. Would I be best to replace these also? Based on how it operates when its working it seems fine, and that it takes a tap to make it work, I would assume not. However just want to be sure. Also is there anything else I should take into consideration? The way it works is a coil with what I assume is a magnet or something in the middle. And yeah. That's my story. Sorted? It may not be the same, but our trucks have 3 screws holding the gauge to the board at the back of the cluster. Sometimes they do exactly what you say and a little tweak of the screws sometimes fixes them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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