SOHC

I was watching those Pakistan engine rebuild guys and they crack tested a crank by dabbing chalk dust or something on it and hitting the webs with a hammer

Cool, I have a soft spot for iron head sportsters, i am after a set of pipes like that if you come across any

Split the crank on the engine I am going to use because the big end felt rough, no wear at all but lots of moisture damage, in my experience they don't last long at all if you try to run them like this, so I had a back up crank pin I could use but under close inspection it has had some kind of failure like it was too soft or something. I give up.

Try Malcom at econohonda

I had to get a pair for a yamaha xt600 and the genuine ones were over $300 for a pair, i got aliexpress ones for $12 a pair and they are fine, At the time I could not get anything for my SOHC 750 and when i got NOS ones ther were hard, That little lip they have on the inside that sits into the grove on the carb is realy important and i think why normal hose didnt work,

Proprietary shaped honda things, i tried runbber hose on my cb900 and it didnt work, they have to be perfect of they leak,

I tried with a solvent once but they expanded 3 times the normal size, silicon will work for a bit, use to do it all the time at the bikeshop when this old stuff was on the road on its last leags

I meen if one cylinder is burning the paint off 1st and getting hotter, Rubbers may look mint but if they are even remotely hard they leak,

#3 with paint burnt off will be an air leek somewhere I garentee

My 400 four and 550 all were funny on #4, and smoked constantly out the exhaust,i got a spair 400 engine and #4 was full of carbon on #4, i think its from people letting them idol on the side stand and it starves that side of the engine.

Seat is all mounted with new brackets at the front, spent most of the day on the front wheel, I had to grind down all the spoke niplels and give the spoke holes in the rim a little grind as that rim is drilled for another hub, i highly recommend using the correctly drilled rim unless you want to waste time. When lockdown finishes i amm off to the brittish bike parts library where i can exchange stuff for more parts

Moryes do a compressor oil

Save a shit load of money to

Just spoke to Trevor Hall and he reckons replace that whole bearing with a bronze bush, lots of bikes ran bushes for main bearings. If i got rid of the inner bearing completely and drilled a hole in the bronze or cut a slot for the big end oil feed would work

I will look into it but everyone has sed dont do it, the big end is oiled thrugh this bearing, the oil is fed into the needed roller main then the bearing extends into the crank slinger, i cant put a sleeve on the shaft because of this, i cant find an INA bearing even close, a ball race bearing cannot be used because of the oiling system. They did make O/S rollers but i cannot find anything and the shaft pitting is too deep

Pipe it into the ait filter

With a pump you dont have to, just blow them into the air

Some people use a vacuum pump

Shaft is 19mm and i cant take any more off it, if the sleeve was 1mm thick it would roll it up and blow the motor up, I have had gearbox shafts hard chromed and ground but they didnt have bearings running directly on the surface. The bond of the chrome is not stroung enough

I made one in the end from a $9 garden sprayer with the pressure relief valve tied shut with wire, was putting out 90 PSI

I got the races out of the caces very carefully as i want to re use them, cant chrome the shaft as the rollers run directly on it

Still looking for a set of 37mm honda CB froks or something, Finding someone to make that main shaft is proving to be difficult to

There is some trick where you grind a bit off the valve stems on the 5 HP because of the easy pull start system keeps the valve open untill just befor TDC, and if you set the tappits at the point its on that ramp on the cam it boosts compression a bit

He’s 5/8 tall? You could keep him in a match box

Where can I buy 5/8 UNC studs?