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Everything posted by Testament

  1. it might, but throwing things on the ground is cathartic and also satisfies the lazyness quotient
  2. Dropping them flat on the ground to rattle some the sulphur? off the plates just as hard as you can without busting the plastic case and spilling battery acid everywhere (who would guess that could happen) then putting them on a battery charger with pulse/maintenance mode/one of those^ things sometimes works
  3. definitely plausible. check out nugget garage and cornfedboost on youtube, plus google performanceforums for v6 holden stuff its certainly doable. BA falcon with barra would be better? but in reality really better doesnt matter as long as it doses and skids to your satisfaction moo is still going to moo though also I would note you need to put as much thought into the gearbag/diff holding and putting down the power as the turbo stuff. autos can usually hold the power and put it down but may need some fettling of electronics or valvebody type stuff depending on the box.
  4. I use a drum with some water in the bottom as a pre filter, the inlet from the cabinet goes down almost to the water level with the idea being the dust gets caught in the water as it flies down into the vessel out of the inlet pipe. seems to work ok my free vacuum hasnt died yet and almost no dust comes out of the vacuum outlet which I pipe to outside.
  5. Other solution would be to add more slam?
  6. if the camaro was 8 inches lower it would comply? the way they have demonstrated it looks like they mean it applies to hot rods with exposed suspensions
  7. valve sizes are the same yeah? so limiting factor = valve curtain area and valve seat diameter rather than port/chamber/etc.?
  8. There's quite a few jeep aw4 (jeep version of an 340) manaul controllers around as well if the solenoids are similar setup? E.g. http://www.radesignsproducts.com/rail-controller.html
  9. chain is ok usually too , a size you can get a 10mm or 12mm bolt through is going to be plenty strong usually. just make sure if you are bolting it on you have it so the bolt is not under a bending load. https://blog.uscargocontrol.com/working-load-limits-chain/ even noodle spec 6mm links are ok for ~500kg
  10. shouldn't be lifting suspended loads over your, or anyone's elses head full stop no matter the gears rating. 99% of legit construction/industrial sites "never go below a suspended load" is a golden rule that shall not be broken. yes there may be some particular job specific exceptions, but you get the idea dont go under anything that might fall on your head if someone strapped it wrong or pushed the control knob the wrong way etc. - any of those exceptions have be accompanied with a specific plan as to why how/exactly what is being done and how that is being made safe and risk being minimised as far as reasonable practical. /safety rant m10 will also probably tell you than what they are selling is not for lifting but for towing or load binding. for lifting a normal car engine with a normal engine crane you can use whatever as long as you are certain its not going to fail - whats reasonable will depend if its a 90kg 1NZ or a 400kg 6BT. use as large a strap/chain as practical really. try not to put your foot under it etc. and try to get things balanced within reason.
  11. probably thought of all these things already but the usual things from industrial machinery issues bent output shaft whirling around damaging seal (seems unlikely with no vibes) undersize output shaft OD for seal (pretty unlikely with new from toyota but not impossible) tailhousing bush not aligned with output shaft inner bearing so shaft is not central to seal bore axial movement of shaft in operation resulting in wrong diameter bit of shaft running on seal any seal marks/wear on the shaft?
  12. We usually use carboline paints or altex coatings on stuff at work when we need to ask for specific paints and have really good service/advice from their application people. TBH the last one I got some advice on I was very surprised, inside of an atmospheric flash tank, total ball of rust inside just painted it in hope to get it to last 4 more years/total band aid didnt have much else we could do at the time. opened it up last year (after 4 years in service) and 90+% of the paint was there. there had totally expected the steam and hot water to have just peeled it all off like it wasnt there.
  13. read the rules for whatever sanctioning body you are going to be running under 5 times then read them again. there are many differences between manz/fia/nzdra/ihra/nhra/oranz etc. etc. etc. alot of the time you can actually build something compliant to several but you have to understand the rules. height of the aforementioned door bars, placement of backstays, relationship of main hoop to driver etc. can all be subtly different.
  14. adaptors dont straight up make the reading wrong, but certainly add to potential for other forces to come into play than just twisting. This can certainly cause incorrect/less actual torque to the fastener. a bit like installing dry vs various types of lubes reality is many cases you have to use extensions etc to reach certain fasteners, just have try to do your best to only apply torque and minimise out of plane/bending forces.
  15. Testament


    +1 durepox. I have stuff I got from my uncles estate, must be over 20years old and its still good. well good enough to stick to things at least.
  16. @Roman wouldnt you want a minimum speed, rather than off completely at low/no load? unless thermosiphon morris minor stuff goes on?
  17. https://www.instagram.com/p/COoy8WLskO7/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  18. so implying more of an allowance for race/rally cars with stripped interiors
  19. dunno, rock auto do it pretty well but yeah everyone else fucks it up
  20. I just put alloy spool of wire+ matching size tip in normal mig welder+handpiece. has rolls with different knurl for alloy I think/maybe/cant remember. Plus pure argon for shielding. It works acceptably but its suited more for thicker/structual type stuff because you end up with not enough heat to start with, or enough to start with but it gets too hot quickly. so difficult to make a nice job of anything that is only a short weld. Also you are relying on the arc to blast the oxisided layer off, which with mig means wire going so this also is a factor in shitty starts to welds unless you can run higher amps etc. (i.e. thicker materials) The other tip with using it in a regular mig is to keep the torch lead as straight as possible. I never had any issues with brids nests etc. just the aforementioned limitations of the setup
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