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Everything posted by Testament

  1. Testament


    Yeah hammering bad. Mild controlled heat maybe ok but rubber/plastic seals kinda limits that to maybe 80c . If no seals you can go a little bit hotter but you don't want to start smoking the grease/oil
  2. Testament


    if you put it back together with the same crush spacer you have to do it up just a liiiittle bit more. basically still to the same torque value, which is usually hooven tight. If you feel that you have gone much past the point it was previously done up to by much its just deforming the crush spacer more and more and thats not what you want. tight enough that its only just starting to deform it again. its not the right way to do it, but i've done it before in a pinch and the axle shaft broke well before the ring and pinion had a problem. but grain of salt /yrmv etc.
  3. I have a pumped system on the fiat but it's general other shit running issues precluded seeing any benefit from it to date, will have to see if sequential injection solves the other issues and report back. That said it depends how its tuned. if you tune it so its fine without the water injection then no big worries. also put a low level switch/warning ideally. basically the WI should lower the IAT so the ecu should know to retard timing/reduce boost etc. when IAT = too high another option with WI for simplicity is using an air atomising nozzle and boost pressurised tank so theres no pump to fail. you bleed boost off the compressor to push the water out of the tank, and in the nozzle a second supply of air bleed is used to atomise the liquid which is then injected upstream of the compressor - this makes the air denser and increases the mass flow rate of the compressor so you can use a slightly smaller compressor wheel for a given flowrate/power level. Air to air is certainly the least fuss to live with but none of the issues with WI are thaaaaat big of a deal if it's actually put together well. You can have the same kind of issues with your main fuel injectors or fuel pump blocking up or stoping working.
  4. hmmm even with encoders normal plcs wont actually record the data reliably at that data rate from what I know. although maybe im just used to different plcs that are slower for reasons of systems compatability and reliability. anytime we need to measure stuff in ms its always with a standalone recorder/datalogger thigns like circuit breaker close times, stop valve close times, shaft vibrations/orbits on journal bearings. talking at speeds like that alot of things could make a difference like the glue as said, even just ambient temps, wear of moving parts etc. I would think you would want to have a fair bit of headroom in the machine speed to account for that if reliability/unattended operation is pretty important. so maybe the listed speed difference between the options isnt really a big deal? chose the one that ticks other boxes best? also one of them listing a higher speed but will only do that for 100 hours continuous or something where the one thats listed slower max actually will run at the speed for 10,000hours?
  5. physically what are the glue guns, how do they work? are they piston things with variable stroke, is there a pressurised supply of glue behind them, or mystery under the blanket operation? until measured with a high speed recorder or something I would probably question the accuracy of most of those timings anyway - so may just have to take a stab at it and adjust from observed production result anyway
  6. oh yeah I don't mean someone with a ticket is bad choice at all, esp if they are keen on doing the work that is excellent. someone qualified should very well know how to drive an arc and not dip tungstens etc. just whether they have experience working with thin and rusty stuff is the question really, while the basics are the same there are alot of technique things that are different. much more to do with not burning holes and minimising warpage vs on thicker stuff where the important parts are getting penetration and preventing any inclusions etc. to ensure passing NDT.
  7. Yeah ticketed welder for rust repairs is a wives tale, I don't think there are any tickets for such work. the closest would some kind of panelbeating/sheetmetal qualification? doesn't mean a ticketed welder is bad at rust repairs, but it doesnt mean theyre good at it either - it is a somewhat different type of welding. welding tickets are typically for structual steel, pressure equipment and airplane stuff, maybe other safety critical applications. and even then there is not actually anything called a welding ticket. You have weld procedure specifications (WPS) and welders can then be qualified to the WPS and gain a procedure qualification record (PQR) is the correct terminology. The PQR is completely specific to what is on the WPS, e.g if it is pipe welding it might be carbon steel, in a certain position, tig root run and SMAW (stick) cap. the type of tig wire and stick electrodes will be specified, the range of allowable welding settings, sheilding gas type, the piping will have fitup dimensions and bevels specified, minimum temperatures, allowable interpass temperatures, a range of diameter and thickness above and below the tested qualifying weld that the WPS can be used for. Then if you need to weld structual steel sections, or stainless steel, or significantly larger or smaller pipes you then need another WPS and PQR appropriate for the application. then for each PQR you need to have tested qualifying welds on a regular basis - it is not an indefinite qualification. tl:dr welding qualifications (tickets) for industrial welding have almost no application to most automotive repair work.
  8. Theres a few cars with electric power steering pumps that might work? if you have a small alloy sump it would dissipate enough heat before the pump I would think. A class mercs are one, probably others too. maybe some toyotas? MR2? MR-S?
  9. yeah the volumex is good, the inlet manifold is not the greetest mostly. all of the talks though, just for lols drove my 124vx from thames to coroglen in 5th gear at coronats way back when. Crossing fingers that going to sequential injection is going to solve the majority of the issues I've had with mine being a piece in one way or another. I wonder mark, do you know Steve Spiers and Blair Wald? I remember Steve telling me about a 124 coupe with VX kicking around auckland a million years ago.
  10. fyi should really put this question in muffler tech thread maybe will still fit depends on actual OD and ID and fixing mechanism. "100mm" might be the OD or the ID or it might actually be 4" 101.4mm OD and ??? ID.
  11. Testament


    similar reason why I decided to be bloody minded and use a hilux. considered 8.8 but for a fox body with the factory triangulated 4 link the upper mounts need to be on the sides of the centre housing. only the factory mustang 8.8 has those cast in and welding some onto the explorer section didnt seem like taht greatest idea v.s. welding onto a hilux housing. getting a mustang housing in nz is costly. /hindsight should have sacked up and bought a 9" auto and 2.92 ratio ftw - bigger stronger pinion, and less torque load on axles / torque sponge to absorb shock loadings
  12. some isuzus run a Dana 44 of some description too. need to identify exactly what diff you have plus what ratio, as some diffs have different carriers for different ratios too. then you can probably find parts online/ebay/rockauto/etc/etc/match something up. diffs are something where most manufacturers do not reinvent the wheel very often so usually alot of interchangeability/they use someones elses design heaps.
  13. TBH with that setup id even be looking at 3.5" for at least the front section does depend how much hps and rpms you are talking though. and how much you value the free hps and quicker spool less backpressure nets you.
  14. actually so many choices haha https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?trafficChannel=main&d=y&CatId=0&SearchText=crankshaft+position+sensor&ltype=wholesale&SortType=total_tranpro_desc&groupsort=1&page=1
  15. Cherry GS100701 is the usual one have used on a few projects with good success. they are nice because you can adjust the gap with the threaded body https://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659321/ you can find them a little cheaper from overseas maybe. or you might find an equivalent on aliexpress for less. that said you might be able to scrounge or buy an OEM style one from an efi car that uses a geartooth type crank position sensor. e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Crankshaft-ZonCar-0031532728-0261210170-Mercedes-Benz/dp/B07W4JZR3V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=crankshaft+position+sensor&qid=1570063554&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWEc5TktGUUEwVkdRJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDEwOTIxM1JHUFZVMVQzN09NRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDAyMjYyMU5HV0ZUNU9BMFk5RSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= the only thing is you will need to get the datasheet info to find out if you need to put any resistors in the wiring to get it to suit the ecu - you do need to do that with the cherry sensors but it is listed in the documentation what resistance value to use. with an OEM sensor you may or may not - something you would have to figure out.
  16. may need to consider increasing the chamfer on the wheels transition from mounting face to hub bore so the spacer has enough meat, or consider steel rather than aluminium if its very thin
  17. does bumper to bumper takanini friday afternoon traffic help due to lower wind resistance/drafting effect?
  18. Testament


    It's pretty avg. Durepox or similar two part epoxy primer is what you want as said 124 times in this thread before.
  19. Testament


    Full face is really nice, they don't fog up, but yeah quite a bit spendier. 3m Half mask with filters are pretty affordable from most industrial supplies places.
  20. this is on the 124 with supercharged 2L. its 2.5" with a 2.5" coby and currently a 2.25" turbo style on the back as it was too noisy with a 2.5" straight through. both were just cheapies form chase. the whole thing is a bit crap as I have modified it a few times over the years and it gets banged up pretty often as there isn't much room to tuck things up under the 124 chassis which then makes vband clamps and flanges leak. Also depending on how link/sequential tuning goes I could end up taking the S/C off and going turbo so Im thinking of going larger pipe size to future proof. Thinking oval tube so still 2.5" deep but 4" wide, similar flow to between 3" and 3.5" . There really is only room for 2 silencing things, one before the diff ~ 400mm x 225mm and at the back similar size and has to be pretty shallow for a muffler, cant be much more than 125mm deep so no barrel type with dumpy tip may apply good to know, I have been looking at their stuff, not cheap but when you compare to shipping similar spec stuff in it works out OK.