sentra Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 ^i had all sorts of problems with manual tensioned squeely serp/multirib whatever you call them until i stopped being a sissy and wanged it waaay up the que to stop being a nancy was looking at a brand spankers marine engine with a supercharger+serp belt+manual tensioner, and that shit was sooooo tight / guitar b string level 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Gotta be pingin' 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, Seedy Al said: Wonder if I need to make something like this but not an actual damper but instead a solid adjuster to eliminate the the tensioner ability side of the tensioner completely. That's a manual tensioner there. The auto's don't have the shock absorber. Got some sideways hat mates that do the sideways driving and they all had trouble with the belt coming off their 2j on the mad downshift. The solution to their problem was to tap the idler bolt right through, put a washer on the front, and a bit of flat bar to the power steer bolt and do it up tight. The manual tensioner arm with the 2 bosses for that bracket was expensive as f from toyota. I can get a photo if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Anyone know any cars that have a fairly compact auto belt tensioner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 17 minutes ago, kicker said: Anyone know any cars that have a fairly compact auto belt tensioner? 1kz cambelt tensioner ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Could be a go with a spring providing tension Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 on the note of very corrosive stuff, if you want to rip anything off anything see if you can get this stuff. it blows off anything that a high concentrated base wont. We use it to clean the hand wash trough (which gets full of that aweful red dirt that sticks and eats everything) one wipe and bam, its gone . the boys use it to clena the tyres and it tears through paint in .5min I looked at the ingrediants and went ...phwoar. link to the white hot http://www.challengechemicals.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Challenge-Chemicals-SDS-White-Hot.pdf BTW the best shit for getting that shitty day to day grime off your tyres is very concentrated sodium hydroxide IMO, just dont let it touch unprotected polished alloy. it WILL STREAK the fukc out of that, and none protected paint. But you watch as it rips the dirt off, make a perfect base for putting tyre shine on , if that what you're into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 3 hours ago, fletch said: That's a manual tensioner there. The auto's don't have the shock absorber. Got some sideways hat mates that do the sideways driving and they all had trouble with the belt coming off their 2j on the mad downshift. The solution to their problem was to tap the idler bolt right through, put a washer on the front, and a bit of flat bar to the power steer bolt and do it up tight. The manual tensioner arm with the 2 bosses for that bracket was expensive as f from toyota. I can get a photo if you want Yes please ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 This was the mk2. You can see the strap behind the pulley to the power steer pump. Sorry it's not that clear a photo. Was just a bit of flat bar with a nut welded in and ground down and a longer bolt in the idler pulley. The pump end was just a slot. The reason for this was that the dog box allowed caused the motor to drop a couple thousand rpm in an instant in gear changes and the inertia of the alternator would cause it to pull the tensioner back as it slowed down and snap back and the belt jump off. The bearing on top was to stop the belt whipping. Dunno if it was necessary but 550kw means you try everything. ... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 My inverse correlator suffered a disruptive decomposition last night. I've traced the problem to inverse correlation module 3, sector 4A. It looks like the reverse ionic capacitor imploded after being exposed to excessive reversed inductance for an extended period. Does anyone on here have a ferrite cored, reverse ionic capacitor with a rating of 16 Henry's per Farad? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 WAT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 I have no fucking idea what that last question was about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.H. Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 1 hour ago, fletch said: This was the mk2. You can see the strap behind the pulley to the power steer pump. Sorry it's not that clear a photo. Was just a bit of flat bar with a nut welded in and ground down and a longer bolt in the idler pulley. The pump end was just a slot. The reason for this was that the dog box allowed caused the motor to drop a couple thousand rpm in an instant in gear changes and the inertia of the alternator would cause it to pull the tensioner back as it slowed down and snap back and the belt jump off. The bearing on top was to stop the belt whipping. Dunno if it was necessary but 550kw means you try everything. ... You can get alternator pulleys with one way bearings to avoid that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 47 minutes ago, igor said: I have no fucking idea what that last question was about. #Techspam. From Reddit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 1 hour ago, 00quattro00 said: You can get alternator pulleys with one way bearings to avoid that Pretty much every modern car has these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 2 hours ago, 00quattro00 said: You can get alternator pulleys with one way bearings to avoid that Yea but not on a Thursday night in Taranaki. The way they drive at the track they would probably need them on the water pump and ps too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 10 hours ago, fletch said: This was the mk2. You can see the strap behind the pulley to the power steer pump. Sorry it's not that clear a photo. Was just a bit of flat bar with a nut welded in and ground down and a longer bolt in the idler pulley. The pump end was just a slot. Thanks for that pal! Having a look at that set up I suspect my noise might be actually coming from my crank pulley as due to removal of stuff I am no longer pulling the belt as far around it. Will take a picture tonight when im there. Going to check charge out rates etc also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Righty. Did some tests. Ran car with no load. Charging at 14.7. To high. Add loads. Drops to 12.5 and when you give it some revs thats when the squealing starts. Ran for a few minutes and pulled off belt. All pulleys cold and belt looks brand new. Touch alternator and its hot as fuck. So thats that. Alternator is toast, even after throwing 160 beans at it for a new rectifier. Turns out 1uz is close just the off set is to far out. So going to the old me and cut down the mounts to suit. This I am 90 percent certain will fix this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris r Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 4 minutes ago, Seedy Al said: Righty. Did some tests. Ran car with no load. Charging at 14.7. To high. Add loads. Drops to 12.5 and when you give it some revs thats when the squealing starts. Ran for a few minutes and pulled off belt. All pulleys cold and belt looks brand new. Touch alternator and its hot as fuck. So thats that. Alternator is toast, even after throwing 160 beans at it for a new rectifier. Turns out 1uz is close just the off set is to far out. So going to the old me and cut down the mounts to suit. This I am 90 percent certain will fix this. Its not a dud new reg is it? reg doing hunntz and warming stuff up? or last reg fucked everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Totally possible. One test I did do with the 1uz alternator tonight was check my wiring for the plug. Everything seems fine and with the 1uz alternator plugged in, the charge light actually comes up on the dash, which the 2jz alternator never has in either of the crowns its been in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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