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Everything posted by kicker

  1. I finally got around to looking at the 250SR oil pump and good news, it'll add the extra oil I need. After seeing that its gear ratio was similar I opened up both pumps, the 200 uses a 3mm piston where the 250 has a 4mm one, yuss. The drive gear also stuck out further but it swapped over to the other pump fine. Ready to go back in. The other part of this problem was that there was no oil feed port on either the intake boot or the carb. The carb had an unused boss (probably for this purpose) so drilling that would be easiest. I pulled a nipple out of another carb I had and pressed it in with a bit of loctite. The last bit was fitting the valve that stops the oil tank from draining when the engine isn't running. This normally sits in the boot but a few minutes in a drill with a file and now I can put it inline between the pump and carb.
  2. A few things have been happening lately with the KDX. Since I had it sitting in a drawer I fitted an O2 sensor and wideband gauge to see if it will help with tuning my new carb. Manufacturer advice is to locate the sensor on the upper half of the belly of the chamber and to expect a shorter life span. I had a few bungs so put one where it was convenient at the end of the belly. I hooked it up to the battery pack under the seat, hose clamped the gauge to the bars, calibrated it then fired it up. Seems to be doing something and doing it consistently. Current carb needs jetting to suit my exhaust changes but I won't bother with that one yet.
  3. Yup gotta play the game They send it to the station that verified it There isn't much info out there on the process it would be a good idea to take on board what we are saying, or not but good luck with that.
  4. But it isn't, NZTA aren't going to take some random old guys word for it.
  5. I have used the alternatives docs process recently, it is confusing and they ask for the things you don't have. The vin/chassis numbers will need to be verified as mentioned, I got a handwritten confirmation on vtnz letterhead, also it needs to be done by the actual compliance person and not just one of the wof guys. This was needed before submitting the form so they were wrong about not bringing it in. As far as the police thing, I would go into a station and try to get someone to write down the vehicle isn't showing as stolen and have them sign and stamp or whatever. Vehicle history is tricky, you will need to flesh out what you have. Copies of old photos, of all correspondance, if you have his email send another and if it bounces back saying it is invalid then add that to your submission. Even a screenshot of a white pages search that you weren't able to find them. Write down any info the previous owner yarned about when you picked it up and add that. I had similar lack of history so I was emailing companies in Japan to get them to confirm they had no info, gotta get creative. Not sure what is going on with the receipt thing, you will have to explain why the name doesn't match yours, maybe get a jp to sign this. Fill out a statutory declaration that you own the vehicle and get a jp to sign, piece of piss.
  6. Good post, nut clarity too
  7. What is the hallway lighting like? Wood is good if it aint too dark
  8. A guy in NZ is doing a couple Land Rover repowers at the moment https://youtu.be/eQENOgw6AUQ
  9. Steel tank is one of the obvious differences plus the oil injection gear (if there is an oil tank accessed from under seat. You can always grab the engine number, if it's DX200G***** then it's the road one (DX200E***** would be offroad) I'll try to find the model recognition pdf's
  10. The SR version was the only model designed to be used on road, comes with an extra charging coil and all the lights, speedo etc, regular KDX will just be a headlight and taillight and premix. You can put most of the gear on a non-SR easily enough, the hard part I guess would be compliance and what kind of checks there are that would stop an off road vehicle from being vinned. Early 90's RMX250 is another that had a street legal version, they come in a tasty yellow colour. This one has been listed for a while due to price, it's an F1 version which from what I have seen is just an SR with right way up forks that was for the Oz market. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dirt-bikes/kawasaki/listing/3174312600?bof=5vxszvqb There isn't many of these bikes in NZ but they do pop up. Lots on Yahoo Auctions
  11. Can recommend, it's the most fun I've had on a bike in a long time
  12. For only 200cc it can be a bit of a handful. Power comes on very quickly once the revs are up, wants to lift the front all the time so need to get up over the bars but it still has decent low down power so can be ridden civilly. I need to clean up the pilot jet circuit though, feels a bit 4 stroky just off idle. Ideally I'd bung on the replacement carb and tune that but I am still sussing the oiling system. CBF running premix due to hassle and 40:1 at low road rpms will poo everything up, the injection pump runs about 90:1 at idle. I remembered that there is a 250cc version that runs a 33mm carb and oil injection so I picked up the pump from one of them. I suspect the pumps might be identical and are just geared differently, if that is the case I should have the option of swapping gears or boring the pump and making a new piston for it.
  13. Noones going to ply the doorcard off to see
  14. I made a new bit of exhaust for the Toomey silencer so tried that out. Not any louder but sounds a little better. Today was engine break in day, had done a couple heat cycles on the stand so time to load it up on the road. It's got a lot more zing now, pulls hard when the pipe comes on, lots of fun.
  15. Monkey upgrade? https://silodrome.com/honda-z50j-monkey-baja-africa/
  16. The engine rebuild is pretty much all done, after getting it all back together I found the kickstart shaft and shifter springs had unseated during assembly so had to drop the oil and coolant and open up the sidecover again. All good now. Sounds a lot crisper too, some of that will be due to the gutted expansion chamber. Before and after I haven't been able to ride it yet but hopefully I can soon, in the meantime I still need to install the light for my new plate bracket and can try out the new silencer. Also, typical for bikes like this it has a chewed up kickstart shaft thread I have to deal with, now that its all done I might just send it with some stud lock and hunt down a nicer shaft for the future. An old flatmate of mine had a KX125 with the same problem, his didn't even have a nut, and if you forgot to take the lever off after starting it'd fall off somewhere while riding and you'd spend ages trying to find it.
  17. I have cleaned up the cylinder and power valves, there was a lot of spooge but a soak in some petrol made it easy. Valves back in now and operating smoothly. Here are the valves in their closed state which is below 4000ish rpm, you can see the centre valve at the top of the port and one of the side valves to the left. Open state, you can now see the extra exhaust ports that the side valve uncovers. From the top you can see the main exhaust port and the extra two on either side the power valves control. Nothing left to do engine wise at the moment so I gave the frame a clean so that it's ready.
  18. I always die inside a little when I see those red and blue crimps used on an otherwise tidy project.
  19. Crankcase all back together. I found it is missing a washer on the clutch release mechanism, I can't see how it would negatively impact it other than reducing its throw and it has been running for who knows how long without it but I'll order a new one as its a 5 min job to install. I'm still waiting on an output shaft collar to arrive and need to order a new piston but in the meantime I can move on to cleaning up the cylinder and the powervalves.
  20. Ooh yeah, crankcase halves went together easy. Used the hot slug again, had even made a crank puller in case it got stuck part way on but didn't need it. Gear shifter and kick start mechanisms in along with the oil pump drive gear, will torque up the primary when the clutch goes on. Next up is cleaning the sidecover and replacing some more seals.
  21. A bit more today. I fitted the freshly rebuilt crank to the right case half. I used the hot slug method. You put the crank in the freezer then heat up a socket with a gas torch, the socket sits snugly in the bearing inner race and heats it up making it expand. When you feel the bearing give a bit of resistance take the socket out then get the crank out of the freezer and push it straight into the bearing using feeler gauges to centre it in the case. The main reason for doing it this way is because using a torch or heat gun might cook the crank seals which have to be installed first. Now time for gearbox reassembly and pressed in a couple seals to finish off
  22. Some stuff arrived. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4: press in the seals Step 5 Step 6: press in the rest of the bearings cos the heat and freeze method didn't work
  23. Loving your work so far. I have been using a pipe bender to bend tube recently cos I'm cheap, I have found a couple tricks help to minimise the kinks. First is packing it full of sand (ram it then just put some tape over the ends) and second is to use a tight fitting form where you are bending it to stop the tube from flattening out, try using one of your slick forms in place of the white one. There are probably better ways than mine like using an oxy set but we use what we have
  24. Will see how painful the whole process becomes, premix might be easiest long term but not the best for keeping the power valves spooge free
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