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Everything posted by kicker

  1. Cheers man, much appreciated In my case, comparing cables from two reputable manufacturers, the premium would only get me a metric thread hence asking.
  2. What sorta price have they quoted for the cable? I need a push pull too, I have a cheap boat option with unf threads but would be nice to have metric to avoid adapters
  3. In typical fashion I'm working on everything at once so I'm also deep in spaghetti I thought I would chop out all the unneeded stuff like lights etc, was disappointed that it didn't thin it down much I'm working from right to left so one side is tidy at least, gonna have to shorten a whole lot of stuff soon. At this point I realised I'm gonna have to attend to the list of brackets I have to make in order to establish the final positions of various things. I hate making brackets so onto something else. The shift lever (buttplug for reference) Looks good with the 10" steering wheel Look at all them snazzy gauges Now I need to make a bracket for it...fuck
  4. More little bits of progress. I needed to block off a few ports in the cooling system, drill, tap, plug, repeat. Gave em a quick clean in the blasting cabinet too. I cut a couple hose barbs off and had some larger ones welded on. Next job was replacing the roof air bleed hose. Attached it to the old one and it pulled through easily. Normally it would run to a header tank that lived on the left but now it will run to the radiator. I'll have a look to see if it can go under the frunk and into the heater compartment somewhere.
  5. Inspirational work there, it's coming along nicely!
  6. The cooling system is gonna take a few revisions to get spot on I expect, I'll put it together with what i've got and see what it needs before spending money on new bits. Things I don't know, will it need a bigger rad?, will the bike waterpump cope?, will I be able to get all the air out? etc etc The stock setup has two hoses running through a tunnel in the floor to the radiator up front, the hot side goes through the heater matrix first then a bypass thermostat before the rad, there is also a header tank in the frunk which takes an air bleed from the thermostat on the engine, this runs up the c-pillar through the roof channel, down the a-pillar then into the header tank. Interestingly it has no fan on the radiator, the heater fan performs this duty as all the hot water runs through it anyway. I'm mostly replicating the stock setup, due to the height of the engine the header tank and overflow will be in the back now so they can still be the highest point in the system. I'll also be adding a radiator fan and after speaking to the radiator shop I'm gonna ditch the heater for now to help with flow and will also cool the oil with air instead of coolant. So starting in the front. I had to buy 7m of 25mm ID hose to replace the 50 year old originals. Chopped up the heater box as the bottom was rusted out anyway The hose now goes straight to the bypass thermostat housing. The benefit of keeping this setup, as I read on an MGF forum discussing headgasket failures, is that it helps stop temperature fluctuations in the engine by warming the system up in stages instead of repeatedly flooding the engine with litres of cold coolant whenever the thermostat opened. I need to make a trip to supercheap sometime and rummage through hoses for a better upper rad one, one join would be ok but two with different colour hose looks a bit michael mouse.
  7. My local shop stopped stocking motobatt for that reason, they sell the Poweroad brand now instead.
  8. Cheers dudes, will try my best to keep progress rolling, so many little problems to solve heh
  9. The fuel system was a bit tricky, using a surge tank was the easiest option rather than mucking about putting a pump in the tiny 20-something litre factory tank. The tank had some pretty funky gas in it, so I had to seal it up till I could take it to the radiator shop as it would stink out my Leaf whenever I parked it in the garage. They cleaned it up and chucked in a return line for me I wanted to keep everything stock as far as the fuel pump was concerned so I bought a universal surge tank and chopped up the bike pump hanger until it fit. This had to go into... ...this. Please excuse my temporary shelf rail brackets and $6 lift pump, they helped me work out the fuel hose route, I'll have to swap them out for nicer ones later.
  10. Next step is to get the engine hooked up and running, so that means exhaust, fuel, coolant and electrical stuff first. I did a quick and easy job with the exhaust and used a 180 2" bend to join the headers to a cut down and repacked Yoshimura can I had spare. I'll see how loud it is then decide if I need to do a version 2 but that wouldn't happen till after the diff goes in.
  11. I remember Greg doing some work to make his 180B's semi-trailing rear adjustable, don't know if that is an option for you.
  12. I have been keeping an eye on the lvvta docs but if you see anything whack let me know. Crush tubes for the engine subframe mounts Put the rear ones where the original engine subframe mounted Bending tube to fit The subframe isn't finished, I still have another engine mount I want to pick up and maybe tie it into the shock towers but for now it's enough to get it in.
  13. So now I had a spot for the engine I had to work out if I could get drive from it to the axles that goes in the right direction. I spent more time thinking, looking at pictures, measuring, reading forums, asking @yoeddynz questions, doing nothing, buying parcel shelf speakers, looking at rims, starting other projects. I started to cad (poorly) up my own diff with countershaft unit when I found an outfit in the UK who do R1 conversions for Minis and they have their engines facing the same way, a quick email confirmed they would sell one of their diffs separately if I wanted one. This Or this So now I had a solution I started to fit the engine.
  14. The engine is a Suzuki GSF1250, so not a big hp R1, Busa type but the price was about a third the cost of a sport bike engine and it has a stacked gearbox which was gonna be useful. It still puts out 110-120hp with some easy mods but its main feature is torque, about 110NM which is all in by 4000rpm. Space was a big concern as these cars are tiny, 3m front to back, 1.295m side to side. From the rear axle to the back of the car is 50cm or something silly so I needed a compact engine to allow enough room for a diff, that's where the stacked gearbox helps as it makes the engine shorter front to back. I spent a while considering different configurations, putting it in front of the axle would make it easier to sort the drivetrain but there is still minimal room in that direction and I really didn't want to chop up the interior. This way around had some benefits but still not enough room. White tube at the bottom is the axle centre. Then I noticed the bumper sized space behind the headers.
  15. I got distracted with engine stuff. Pulling apart the sweet 3 cyl 2 stroke engine I found a blown bigend. I still intend on rebuilding it but after reading some cool builds on the net I bought one of these to go in first.
  16. There was a bit of rust in the plenum that needed sorting so I started poking around. View from the inside I cut it all out about 2 years ago and it's still in the same state.
  17. I picked this little thing up ages ago from Fronte fiend @Goat, good things take time but I just fuck around heaps so I'm only now making some progress worth posting up. Hopefully some peer pressure will give extra motivation.
  18. @peteretep https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/kawasaki/listing/3519802523?bof=8yFPNCGa https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/kawasaki/listing/3529890012?bof=8yFPNCGa
  19. Work looks good! Wish I had waited a bit longer when sorting my surge tank but I have already painstaking fabricated a hanger to fit in an off the shelf one. I might still need a larger coolant header tank so will keep you in mind
  20. Make sure you give them back fresh from 3 days spent shimming your arsehole half a mil off a lifan-esque power hammer
  21. Epic, vids of it running please
  22. I've got an XTool VAG401 from aliexpress, was about $75, has all the functionality of VAGCOM with none of the ease of use Once you figure out the menus and values you want its good but a snappy phone interface looks way better
  23. A Volvo 2 speed fan might just fit, they flow a ton of air even on the low setting. Internet says the fan outer ring is 17.5". I got one out of a 90's model, can't remember which but they were in a few. They can draw some amps though, had to make sure my alt v-belt was on spec or it would slip when the fan came on.
  24. Well done, one of my top fave threads on the internet at the mo. I'm still tinkering with my little car swap but it's no where near as tidy or progressing as fast as this.
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