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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt


Roman

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10 hours ago, UTERUS said:

On the subject of HSS twist drills, do split point drills have a place for those of us playing along at home? Or are they for reserved for pros with bigger budgets.

I could be mistaken but I understood split point  to simply be an alternative (and often easier, imo) style of sharpening where you grind in a series of flat spots rather than a single curved face 

 

Dunno if that makes sense

Edit.

I just Read the article linked above- that's an information overload lol.

 

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Today I learn something interesting about caliper placement. 

The 350Z at work has some big ass Stoptech calipers with some big floating discs on it. 

Which now causes the problem of pad knockback... When you have a larger diameter disc, when the hub flexes it maginfies how much the outer edge of the disc moves. 

When you have a 4 pot caliper located on "top" of the disc, (as per 350Z) this means that the disc is being pushed against the pads which pushes the pistons in during hard cornering. 
A 2 or 1 pot slider caliper is more resilient to this problem because the caliper just moves with the disc.

If you put the caliper at the 3 or 9 o clock position instead, with the start of the pad just above or below the centreline of the disc.
Then you are much less affected by the hub flexing under cornering and you dont get knockback. (as much)

There are kits for the 350Z to relocate the caliper to this position, for this reason.

Pad knock back sounds scary as fuck. Coming in hot to a corner then your pedal sinks haha.

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Interesting
You can see a similar thing in motorcycle racing though not very common, a tank slapper can knock the caliper pistons back requiring a couple pumps of the brake to get pressure back but usually by then they have missed their braking marker and it's brown trouser time.

giphy.gif

 

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One solution is to use springs inserted behind the pistons that pushes them back out. 

Causes a tiny amount of drag but makes life less scary.

Sounds like an absolute bastard to change the pads though haha.

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Brake pad knock back 

Hayes push bike hydro disc brakes were so bad at dragging/sticking pistons the trick was to leave a slight wobble in the disc so it would knock the pads back for less drag/pad glazing /overheating/sticking more in a vicious circle 

the real fix was take them off and throw away 

funny I was just reading about the 350z brake issue last night somewhere else 

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4 hours ago, Spencer said:

It will run off load on the motor? some combo of temp,map/afm, tps, engine speed? can't really remember but ECU control with multiple variables surely.

Though that must be the case. Il get it running and see if it engages I guess

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On 5/20/2017 at 00:06, Roman said:

One solution is to use springs inserted behind the pistons that pushes them back out. 

Causes a tiny amount of drag but makes life less scary.

Sounds like an absolute bastard to change the pads though haha.

 

Or just give the pedal a couple of taps mid straight to make sure this doesn't happen. Don't know if you noticed me doing that at Taupo in January when you came for a ride. Also you can get an idea of pedal firmness.

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On 22/05/2017 at 10:01, HighLUX said:

 1GGZE- what triggers the supercharger clutch to lock on. Theres a supercharger relay pin on the ecu. Is that triggering it via tps or similar or does it run off a switch on the accelerator pedal?

Pretty sure it works like a 4A-GZE one, the ECU triggers that relay based on intake manifold vacuum. 

When vacuum drops below 8" the supercharger clutch is engaged. The clutch stays on until intake manifold vacuum has risen to over 10" for a period of 5 seconds. This time delay was added to avoid cycling of the clutch during shifts and momentary throttle transitions.

http://mr2.com/TEXT/SuperChargerInfo.html

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