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Took it for its first ride last night, even with the weird ergonomics, unstable idle and shitty brakes it was a success.

couply hours in the shed and the GP looks like a bike again, should be doing ring dings again later tonight if i can get an hour or two in the shed once the kids are in bed. Tight timeline for DGR but gunna make it!

Front end back together after a year and a half. Now she's out in the sun all the body issues are painfully obvious! I've got some rust to fix over the R/R wheel and in the boot, and the clear is coming off in sheets, but it drives sooo nice. It's like night and day from the old 5M, and definitely glad I went manual. I've still got a long list of small stuff to tick off before cert, but I feel I'm on the home stretch now.

Something like this.... after the harley. Harley is sick

Been doin a little bit here and there at Joe/Goat/Flanges on Tuesday night Bike night Still a tonne to do but as long as I knock off a couple things each week I'm happy with progress. Last couple of weeks I got the front wheel on, motor in, speedo, clutch and brake cables hooked up, foot brake and seat mounted plus slipped leg shield on (hole was in the PERFECT place tonight for the carb to poke out - didn't even need to cut it) and then remounted the speedo. Next week will be getting it up high in the air so I don't have to crucify my back each week, fit the accelerator cable, centre the rear wheel, mount the rear brake arm, button up the rear end, final weld up the rear guard and pump it out a little so the tyre doesn't rub.

You absolutely should build a Harley with a 2 stroke in it.......

Is this car Kent powered? @Rookie’s technique was to just change head gaskets between runs at the track .

On a random side note, I did a mini spring clean of the shed today. I had accumulated a rather large pile of ever increasing junk taking up a bay for no good reason. Amongst this was a project I rarely look at...so I removed the covers to reveal it for a look... Fuck yeah...seriously...fuck yeah!!! Makes me wonder what the fuck I'm doing spending time on gopeds when I could be putting the finishing touches on this 99% finished harley? Someone kick me in the balls!!!

Big update mostly about clearances. Firstly the Supertrapp reps turned up and wow are they mint! Did a test fit and fired it up which sounded great, stoked!!! Now clearances, looking at a lot of other CB350 builds I always wondered why they added aftermarket headers. With the rearsets I realise that the factory exhaust sits too high so the brake leaver hits the muffler. Also the kick start hits the rearsets too, bit of a cluster really. Gave it a quick tune with the glass plugs, found the 70 idle jet ran too rich so swapped it out for a 68 which helped when tuning with the Air/Fuel mixture screw. Also added in the blue titanium hose clamps round the carbs, kind dig it kinda don’t, they are quite wide so they don’t quite fit. Can see them in this pic. The push button controls turned up for the handle bars too; again quality and feel is immaculate so far, they also did a perfect job of setting up the buttons as some were momentary and others were push on/off. Test fitted them to check and happy with the fit/clearance. I’ll thread the wiring properly down through the handle bars eventually. Realistically this bike won’t be ready for the DGR ride on Sunday so the CB250k is hitting the ride again this year with the DGR headlight stickers to support men’s mental health. Lastly found the winged Honda badges I brought ages ago to stick on the CB350. Factory colour is to fill them in white but I reckon black could be the go. Thanks for looking!

Do you have more cc in collection of gopeds than in Harley?

So what other interesting junk is sitting forgotten in your shed?

Only Nissan RB Barries could talk about oil pumps for 379 pages!

Back in the game! a literal bootload of 18rg parts just turned up at work. purchased from a mates mates father up north. highlights include; a mint block, that has been professionally honedand surfaced. nearly all rebuild parts. a couple of really clean heads and a partly complete dismantled but complete one. the early "230" head has port work. but ill most likley use the very clean and resurfaced "270" efi head as they had bigger ports anyway and are much stronger with a lower compression, they just had wimpy cams, so the 230 cams may find there way in there too. a slightly lighted flywheel, which will probably be ideal for a street car. once the crown is shipped off to panel in the next week or so, ill hook into building this engine. i need to do alot of measuring and thinking about what combo of parts to run though.

I have been looking around for a while for a new work truck, wanted to go old school and update it to modern running gear and some creature comforts. I didnt have much of an idea but liked the look of older Chev trucks, did some reading and looking and got to this point. Truck will be in the country mid April, it is currently running a 327 and manual gearbox, and pretty much stock apart from that. Plan is to get it complied with existing running gear then modernise a wee bit. I have an LS3 and 6L80 trans and all associated wires and mechanical stuff in my warehouse now (cart before horse) and maybe a front end suspension transplant from a later truck and a diff with a lower ratio. this one will be either a 4.11 or 4.56 ish I believe, so a bit on the highside. While the intention wasn't to start/have another project, Im quite fizzed up about it. Going to keep it stock looking, no fancy wheels or any of that crap. Will get some hand painted signage on it, I want it to look like it was always there.

Curiosity got the better of me, trying to keep busy lately as things are not going so well. hmmm...... The head is still full of rusty shite so will get it hot tanked etc.

Since this has been fitted with VE wheels the speedo has been out by miles..... like 14ks out at 100 ive come close to getting a ticket so decided to sort it. The dash has always flickered and rattled so i decided to do a level 1 to level 3 dash upgrade and buying a license to reflash the body modules. This was fun as you can add the Hsv startup GIF and a cystom off message currently the "Blue whale" after the nickname it got from getting airborne chasing my work colleague in his sports car thing. Apparently Breaching is what my car does over undulations. So now i can plug in just like my VW and change shit in the BCM and ECU

Well ive tried to sell this after hitting rock at work and cracking the sump it sat on the lawn for 8 months getting nothing but a drink of oil and a short drive every now and then. I got sick of it been all forlorn full of water from been nose up on the drive and starting grow mould with no one biting on a low asking price. I got a offer for the 19" wheels i couldn't refuse so its now been put on 18s with new tyres and had some "more" money thrown at it so i can use it as my daily. ......... fuck it is quick. Ive got 2/3 of a 3" exhaust once i get warrant that can go under it for even more poke. A Sump a set of seal's and new cambelt kit are on the way from the USA to get it all nice again.

Got shit on in Chch that weekend. Sorry Plus bike won't be finished by then.

Just set the limiter settings so they are really soft acting in the ecu you are using.

He got back to me just now. "Hi, Unfortunately there is no set answer. Any RB oil pump will supply enough FLOW for what you want to do. They are replaced/upgraded for strength. Strength is required to cope with limiter bashing, high rpm etc. I have used stock used oil pumps on several builds of 600-700hp without issue but I stay off the limiter etc. If you can afford to, go Nitto. If you can’t, get a good condition used, or new genuine Nissan oil pump (be careful of N1 Chinese knock offs) and stay off the limiter. Good luck , Rob." So I will just get a new N1 Pump, and set a rev limiter using the ECU. Just need to find an answer on the crank collar, will try do some more research myself if I can find the time today. Cheers for the advice from everyone so far.

Great progress bro ! Looks sketchy as

Good shit. Up or down the hill first?

Theres a very long thread at skylines Australia about oil pumps. It was up around 379 pages when I read it. (Around right years ago) the crux of it (back then) was that a crank collar was a must, and that with a lot of hitting the limmie /limmie bashing the harmonics cause crankshaft flex. Since tje N1 gears are sintered metal they break when flexed. @DJZ had an N1 pump in his rb26. And those gears broke, while pulling big revs. Cost him a crank grind, but fortunately not a new BB turbo. What I took away from that thread was that actually the Nitro pumps were thw pick of the bunch. Sorry I don't have a link. If you search N1 you might find it. It's probably north of 500 pages now.

All good mate, hopefully he can help

Decided to get this out and try sort a few things. Wouldn't start at first so had to put some fresh fuel in, clean the points etc. Started eventually- took it outside, pulled the radiator cap off and there are bubbles- was only running for about 3 minutes. Water was hotter than expected too. Removed the radiator to flush it out with a hose, even after running rad cleaner through the whole system awhile back and filling with a good antifreeze mix it still has rust scale shit in it. Replaced the top hose as it had a pin hole in it. Refilled and went to run it with both caps off (it has one on the rad, and one on the top of the head). Under light load it is pushing water out- so I suspect a head gasket, someone may be able to confirm my diagnosis, as I often have no idea what i'm doing... Aside from the potential head gasket- Other contributing issues with cooling are that the bottom hose is on a fairly steep angle upwards to reconnect to the water pump, which might mean the pump has a hard time pushing water back up the hose? The top hose also angles downwards, but the inlet on the radiator also points down- again, not the easiest flow path. Assistance with diagnosis greatly appreciated:

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Bit done over the weekend, tidied up the last of the wiring, stripped an internal thread on brake bias adjuster (bastard) , checked electrics, powered everything up, got radiator for supercharger heat exchanger mounted behind the diff, looked at trans cooler and put it back on the bench, got power steering half plumbed . One of my lads is a plumber so going to run 3/4" copper lines from front to back for the heat exchanger plumbing. And probably need to cover the front of radiator with mesh or something.

So Al my work mate was good enough to give the intake manifold a bit of a tidy up with the die grinder while I was assembling the engine With getting the engine pretty much together I thought it was time to get onto a few of the bolt on items. I know from my mk1 cortina that I was wasting my time the orginal alternator. So I found a old Nissan alternator and fitted that. Redrilled the holes and it pretty much lined up. Changed the pulley over from the old Lucas alternator. Which just ment turning the hole out to suit the Nissan alternator. So it's pretty much together just have to sort the flywheel out next.

have been thinking about the air feed and was going to weld a recessed plate into the bonnet for the scoop but the bonnet has so many curves i think i might stuff it up.....so had a re think. made a card board airbox to see how much room i have to play with once i had marked out the area on the bonnet and drilled the holes for the scoop i took the bonnet off and flipped it over. the bonnet its self has indentations on both sides and they are almost perfect for the Porsche air filter.. i marked out the area needed for the filter and cut it out....needed to make a wee bit more room. trial fitted the filter again i then made some sides and back so that the filter can now slide in from the front and be held tight and sealed to the bonnet refitted the bonnet and checked the hole for placement filter in and scoop on. im pretty happy with it so far

They're breeding like rabbits! Plus another one on the bench as a "work in progress". Waste of money you say - can't argue with that...but some people gamble or smoke that amount in a month, so there's worse habits out there I guess?

So I did the upper ball joints as well.. ..but it wasn't those. The push/pull play at 6 and 12 o'clock was still there. So I looked at how to adjust the wheel bearings.. I was expecting it to be horrible but it was easy, and now the play is gone. Should have done that first. Alas, the vibration is still not quite gone. It's probably just something I have to live with in a British car which has made it all the way to..... 200,000kms. So I got a new obsession instead. The engine doesn't run all that well - it has a random half-stumble at idle and low rpm.. You can see the misfires by watching the shaking of the motor, and although it appears to smooth out if you raise the rpm sufficiently, the higher engine speeds could possibly be disguising the problem. The car has also never really started that well from cold. I checked the spark plugs and they looked amazing to someone who has never owned fuel injection before. I looked for bad connections and vacuum leaks, since the ECU directly reads manifold vacuum (in V12 cars, the ECU is in the boot and its vacuum line has to run the whole length of the car, because why not... ). Nothing stood out though. Several tanks of fuel system cleaning pills didn't help either. Today I took off the airflow meter and cleaned it, and this did make an improvement. The raise in engine speed on startup is more pronounced, and the idle speed seems to have raised slightly which makes the car coast better / makes it not decelerate as aggressively when you lift off the accelerator. But just like my reduced 80kph vibration, the shaky running issue's still detectable. I'll try a compression test and then randomly change every ignition system part, idle valve, fuel pressure regulator and injector before giving up in 6 months from now. The Jag let me know what it thinks of my diagnostic skills:

oh oh oh i forgot the coolest part. Had our resident PPSC pinstriper do some subtle tank art for it. PENNY PINCHERS SCOOTER CLUB BUY FOR CHEAPS SELL FOR HEAPS

Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3

Reverse lights are not needed for a wof

The answer is to drop in an asian market 4Y. Straight in. Use a Weber carb from Oz and you can jet to suit. Weber comes with a Lynx air filter, fuel line, vacuum line and a wire for the electric choke. That's all. 2Y is 79 hp @ 5000 rpm and 140 nm @3200 whereas 4Y is 95 hp @4400 and 182 nm @3000 Gear up with slightly taller profile tyres. I run 205x60x15x6.5 alloys from a Daihatsu suv. More power and huge increase in torque at around same revs. Result it pulls hard everywhere and with the zero emission control junk sensible fuel economy is restored.

Ended up going with signal orange 79. It's an original color for an escort, but not this van. Sampled a blue and a different signal 77 orange but settled on this. Have been spraying it in sections. Engine bay, interior and inside of the doors. Still a while to go before I can spray the outside but its certainly progress!

FFS i actually have money in bank and a car to sell...... someone talk me out of buying this.

Had been driving this daily for a while and out of blue it overheated on me just as i was heading in to work, confused as it shot up really fast i banged on the AC for extra fans and it cooled off. I thought I'd found the leak from bottom rad hose as it was super squished i trimmed it a bit refitted, still leaking...... fuck! climbed up top then i saw it the passthru on the radiator tank for the trans cooler the nut had wound itself off, ive nipped it off and leak is gone. Handy tip to save money on coolant a few drops of food coloring in your radiator makes leaks really obvious as it leaves little trails when it dries.

the ecotec engines have a problematic intake manifold/valley gasket that leaks oil into the coolant and/or vice versa so gives the impression it has a BHG.

So i think i know more about Volkswagen control systems then i ever thought i needed to know. And it boils down to this.....

I think I'll go for this reddish one. Still a rusty pile but in slightly better condition.

A long time between updates! Mix of work & renovations have meant that there hasn't been much work done lately. Latest news is I finally managed to get to the infamous Marshland Road site to hunt for Skodas. Didn't expect to find so many, it almost seemed like every fifth car was 110 or sections of one! I had watched a video on youtube someone had made of the site ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIzthlI87hc ) and in one shot there was a fairly solid looking Sabre! Sadly though between the video being taken and today someone has beaten me to it! There were three other Sabres on the site but in much worse condition. I will buy one of them just to get the original seats & wheels (my Sabre has 110L seats and 13 inch 120LS wheels) and maybe the windscreens.

I now have a working electric handbrake, aircon that blows cold - had to do a bit of a rewire of the fan... a gas gauge that reads right, and Ive worked out the WOT dead zone issue with the thing. Also resealed all the doors / windows / rattle free !! Washed original blanket and reinstalled. The WOT bit is due to a stupid gas tank that has a pick up at the front and no tube internally to the rear of the tank, so I will make up an adaptor fitting and see if that works, or do some kind of surge tank set up to alleviate the issue for ever. To do list is little - Rear deck (full day job Im thinking), sort out fuel issue... The End. Also need to install speakers on stereo and probably alarm it. Anyone on here do this ? Im seriously unmotivated towards the stereo. And the speedo stopped working just after the gas gauge started working. Its a sign I think.

Couple more photos of engine bay and interior.

Im Torn... The ratio in the current diff is 4.56:1 which is way to high, I can get a 3.14 for this which would be sweet, but, LSD's are virtually unobtanium for this year, and Id have to do a bit of a work around on parking brakes, cause theres no provision for these, it did have a drive shaft mounted drum..... So I can swap to a C10 diff (photo 2) throw an eaton tru track in there and do 11's. But the C10 diff looks sooo whimpy, the C20 is 8 stud, and manly, but single spinner... Thoughts ? Gratuitous outdoor shot because.

Looking into a limited slip glove compartment should help contain shit.

No point having all that power if the glovebox cant handle it. what a waste of money

Been daily driving for a couple of weeks now. Leads, plugs and a holley 600 worked mint on the old girl. Taken the tray off and sent it to autoblast to have all the chassis sealed up against the dreaded rust !! Got a mate machining up some boards for the bed, mounted fuel tank in the back and the front seat will be off to be re upholstered soon. Engine swap is happening end of September so anyone after a 327 give me a yell !