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  1. Anywhere local to buy kilmat or is Amazon the only way?
  2. Something something gold. Few dress up pieces.
  3. 6/7 brake lines made. I had to buy a new brake master slave which had the brake fittings facing the drives gaurd instead of my original one which had them facing the engine. With my lowered brake booster set up, to run side drafts, the old brake lines were fouling on the fan shroud.
  4. Calipers assembled and installed Attached the fuel filler. Had to remove and giggle everything around just to get the floor rubber grommet to fit correctly. Happy with the final fitment though. There's a shield that covers all this from the inside.
  5. I couldn't see anything obvious with why the steering shafts weren't lining up so I ended up enlongating the hole in the firewall. This also gave me a chance to change the mounting design. The steering column is mounted to the firewall via a round bush housed in a bracket and bolted to the firewall on the cabin side via 2x 5mm screws, nuts welded on the firewall on the engine bay side. The engine bay side looks bare and had no real seal. I had a spare bracket and bush, so I cut the welded nuts off and attached the spare bracket and bush up the column from the engine bay side and bolted it all together, including the standard bracket on the inside, with 8mm bolts. Original Bracket added to the firewall Old vs new steering uni bush And I've started on making new brake lines. Austin princess calipers and rear cylinders are metric, flexi lines and brake booster are imperial.
  6. I don't have a lathe so I carefully cleaned up the shaft using using die grinder and a flap wheel, checking it as I went. I had removed enough material that the bush would snuggly fit over the shaft and move. Success. Then I couldnt work out why it was such as effort to fit into the steering colum. It would only go half way down. It's hard to see but the end of the shaft is slightly tappered. 39mm tappered down to 38.5mm. Out came the die grinder and flap wheel again. I enlarged the internal shaft to accept the new bush and we were away laughing. Until... ...I installed it all in the van and the ends of the steering shafts don't line up. Faaaaark. I will need to enlarge the hole on the firewall and move the shaft up. I thought the assembly was supposed to be the easy part.
  7. Much like the steering rack, I had disassembled 3 steering columns all in various states and all slightly different. One column shaft was longer then the others, one column and housing has absolutely been munched by the steering lock mechanism and none really shared the exact same internals, with different springs and spacers etc. I used a good short column and the best housing and had them painted. I started to reassemble it last night but hit a road bump. The new top bush, which replaces the older style bearing, is too narrow in the ID to turn freely on the column shaft. The bottom replacement works fine. I'll need to trim down the OD of the shaft or increase the ID in the bush. Even with grease and vice grips it didn't want to turn. old bearing and new bush
  8. I couldn't find my bonnet cable clip so pinched it off the blue van and made a replacement. Could have used a cable tie or p clip but because it's visible I didn't want it to look too out of place. I'll have the old black one stripped and anodized.
  9. Thanks to the great ideas here I had a new plan of attack. I drilled a hole beside the tap and cleaned the area. I could see through the new hole that the nut had 3 factory welds holding it on. Must have been very fatigued/rusted because it didnt require much force for it break away. Tried to plug weld/tac the nut on and managed to get a strong enough tac to take the tap out. I decided I wanted two different spots of weld on the nut. Unfortunately the first weld broke off when drilling the second hole but thankfully I had a screw in place just in case. New hole, new weld. Accidently welded too much of the screw so it required quite a bit of cutting and grinding to remove it in one piece. Required a lot of concentration to avoid the raised stamped areas in the panel. Ended up nicking the top coat once. Cleaned the area again with the die grinder, put in another screw but this time insulated it with copper wiring which worked a treat. Ground it all flat and this time it looked much better. The weld had penetrated and filled in the holes. Best part yet, the bracket covers the entire worked area. Easy for these small jobs to chew up time. Just need to keep looking at the big picture.
  10. Cheers. Yeah feeling much better after hearing the suggestions here. The tap will make a nice earth strap too....
  11. Makes perfect sense thanks. I was thinking of elongating the hole on the bonnet catch to fit over the riv nut if there's enough meat. This way it'll sit flat and the washer on the screw should cover it. As beens suggested here, I'll try drilling a couple of small holes and welding the existing nut in place first.
  12. Didn't think of this. The hook brackets large enough to hide any of the working so could get away with a touch up job.
  13. Looks the goods and the bonnet hook would hide it. Trouble is the tap was halfway through the nut when it let go so I haven't been able to separate the tap from the nut. Might be able to make something to get behind and lock it in place/thin bent spanner.
  14. I was tapping some threads in the engine bay, getting it ready for fittings, then this happened. It's the under side of the bonnet where the hook is attached. Nuts welded on the inside but this one decided it had had enough and decided to spin. Fuck. There's no access to the cavity behind to access to the nut so I'm going to have to cut it open, peel it back, weld the nut back on, stitch weld the panel back on and re paint the entire front section of the underside. Hard to see but agin the nut didn't line up with the hole very well when it was "welded" on in the factory and when I was cutting the thread it was hard up against the bonnet panel which probably caused it to break.
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