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I've had a couple of PM's asking about my Brumby, So here's a pic of it too It runs a NZ market 2007 EJ20 with AVCS and Electronic throttle, with a Link G4. Running 27.5 " tyres, 14" rims and a 3 inch lift to make those fit. Constant AWD 5 speed, Hi/lo with center diff lock and clutch pack LSD rear end.

So it's been a while since an update. Quick rundown of whats happened since July. Spent the entire time trying to find a drivers mirror, have found a total of 3, two in Australia and one in New Zealand. Plus one more potential. The first one I found took forever to get the guy to send and when he finally sent it, he had sent me a LH side - even though I very clearly asked for a drivers side and he even sent me a picture of the RH to check I was happy with the condition. The second one in Australia I found, I agreed to buy it and was waiting for bank details then some fucking cock-hole came in and paid the guy more for it, so I lost out again. The third one is in Christchurch and even though the guy is super helpful, he seems to be too busy to take it off the car. Then today while I was working on the wag a random truck driver popped his head in to yarn after seeing it when he drove past. He told me of an XE in Upper Hutt on a guys lawn and even showed me on the map where it is. So I'll drive past his place tomorrow after work and flash some cash if he has a mirror. Fingers crossed I have better luck - if anyone else finds one in the meantime hit me up please. Other than mirror woes, what has been happening? Well not a great deal, exterior wise, it's almost identical after the panel repair, except I've taken the spotlights off and it's cleaned the front end up heaps. Nothing under the hood except for a new gas strut so I no longer need a broom to hold it up. It's all been interior stuff. Over the last few months I've bought a few bits of broken trim (still plenty left to still find and replace) Last weekend I started replacing what I could and at the same time I sorted out an absolute abortion of wiring behind the stereo. It was as if it has had 4 or 5 different aftermarket stereos fitted over the last 34 years and each one had taken it's own set of wiring pickups. There was so much unused and random wires behind the stereo. Spent a good half day just doing this and cleaning it up, plus I got the cigarette lighter working, and I have working speakers that don't sound like they've been filled with sand. Pretty happy there. I also found a replacement front bench after finding out my old one was just absolutely fucked, it was stuffed with old towel and bits of newspaper and even a couple of beer bottles were in there too. I found it in Hamilton and my good son @64vauxhall picked it up for me, gave it a wee birthday and then sent it down to me. I owe him a furious wristy for that. I got that in a few weeks ago but it didn't sit right and was squeaky as fuck, so pulled that out again last weekend when doing the wiring and have given it a bit of a touch with some silicone spray in the springs to hopefully shut it up. While I was there I decided I wanted to paint the door cards black. So I whipped those off and gave them a couple of coats of VHT vinyl spray - satin black FYI. It came up pretty good. Anyhow that's about it all. I took a bunch of pictures for before and after over the last few days but my phone must have had a bad trip and fucked out tonight. I literally have ONE photo that was left. So I'll post that here. This is 90% of all the changes to the car anyway. LOL This was the colour it was on the inside before I started swapping stuff around (photo stolen from internet) Have a few more things to do and will then begin packing for Wagnats next week. Whooop edit - oh yeah after driving to @Bistro and @LoveChild's place for New Years I got quite sunburnt and the inside of the car was a freakin glasshouse, so I got back and straight away got all the windows tinted to maximum legal darkness and the temp change inside the car is VERY noticeable. Very happy with that change.

Wouldn't ya know it, I went on Facebook and the original mirror seller who sent me the wrong side has just messaged me 20 minutes ago (while I was writing my update) saying he can sell me the right side now and will send it tomorrow if I want to buy it. Well isn't that dandy - it's like he read my update. LOL. Needless to say I have agreed. Hopefully it will get here by Tuesday.

It looks pretty good IMHO

I know. Because if they were mirror tints, instead of painting your door cards you would have covered them with snow camo.

Well. I will let you off if you own the gold and black look, by putting stockings over both your tail lights and headlights.

Flange looks like a goer so have ordered one and getting it sent direct to workshop. The flame still burns....

Was sooooooooo good to make a meet again. First time in ages! Little dude seemed to enjoy it somewhat. Well, he was happy with BF ice cream thingy. Took him the Pak/Botany/Whitford way home, but still no sleep......got sailing on Weds for the next couple months, but seeing as I’ve inadvertently reg’d the car for 12 months I’m gonna have to make the autumn/winter meets!

Here's a before and after photo to see the difference And after And hopefully that equally more flow, and will be one of many things that add up to more power. Next up for the motor is to calculate its port areas, timing, squish band and compression...then tweak those with yet more porting.

im about as keen on the shape of this as i am owning a britcrap car but you can not deny the skills involved in creating this, http://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=50169

and put long spark plugs in

Air/Water intercooler installed.

Opening The Can of Worms So I was cleaning inside the rear wheel arch to throw on some CRC Proseal as well when i found a rubbery texture inside the guard. Had a look and found this. So yeah nah not a fan of that. The rear arch has been replaced and there were still bits of welding wire hanging off the tacks. One 6cm long. Im not keen on replacing at this stage due to lack of funds and i have parts all over the show. It still has a decent amount of strength and cleaned up alright. It will go down on the list of future jobs when it gets bad again. So trying to keep the rust at bay again, i have rust killed it currently and the top coat was going to be CRC Proseal. What else does old school recommend? tell me below if there is more i can do to protect it for as long as possible.

A rack is more 'direct' feeling. However the biggest thing is getting the geometry correct. It is surprising how many people fit racks to improve handling, but end up making it considerably worse by not understanding how rack height/steering arm length etc all affects geometry I had a look at a car on monday that had a 1uz put in it and they had fitted a commodore rack to clear the sump. They had put the rack where it fitted, but it was too low, and it had 80mm of toe change from ride height to full droop. Another example on Tuesday of a charger with an aussie rack kit, its finally ok now the rack was lowered 20mm to correct the bump steer, previously it was about 50mm over its full range of travel fitted as per the instructions. Which is twice as much as a standard one has.

Good news and bad news. Good news, is overnight parts from Japan arrive (cheers Scott!), new sifter bushes as some of mine are non existent so the gearshifter is as floppy as KK's butthole after wagnats. Bad news is I spoke to the garage (where the car is at the moment to get the exhaust sorted), and first up they are having trouble finding a flange to suit the turbo downpipe, and also they looked at the brakes and the hub seal is actual the primary culprit, not the wheel cylinder (which is also leaking), which is dumb. So hoping they can get everything sorted within the next week or so, to give me time to try get legal for wagnats. Discussion

Some ghetto ass cardboard mockups to give an idea of how high the seat will be. I hope to get the seat pan off to Greg at Midnight Upholstery to work his magic.

My first attempt at video editing a GoPro video and first attempt to edit/add music lol. Have learnt that the green Gyro takes a rather long time to warm up and clear it's throat too, seems to be a Gyro thing though, Greg's brown one and my Plan B both take a fair bit of time to run smoothly when started from cold. The 90mj is a fair bit too lean for it, just took a while to warm up enough to show up fully. WeBike have shocks for it, but as there dangerous goods it's fucking stupidly high shipping (gas shocks) Can easily get ones like this that guys use in Zoomers etc but I don't think the spring rate will be high enough for the Gyro And I finally got to have a bit of a look over the new white one, it turns out for be about a 2002 model, has the late model wide engine like I swapped into mine from a Canopy model. Also DC ignition with a massive CDI box, emissions crap running all over the place and a few bits that will find there way onto my green one like the tail light extension panel! Had to have a play with it at Greg's, so with @Tumeke, @flyingbrick, @chris r etc's help/taking the lead while I watched as I was shattered and desperate for food and sleep at this point! After finding a couple broken wires and draining the really nasty petrol out it came back to life with a good squirt of engine start and a lot of kicking Pretty sure the belt is broken, it'll rev happily but theres no sign of movement, will have a look in the next day or so. Think I'm going to attempt to just give this one a tidy up, maybe a couple new plastics and remove all the emissions crap from it. The tail light extension and a couple bits like the DC ignition system may eventually find there way onto my Green one in the future too... Was keen to get it to the Old School Jap meet on Sunday, but just ended up too short on time and just didn't make it

Cases polished Transfer ports case matched

Thought I'd better post a pic of my latest family member and life long project car... NZ new, second owner and only 77 thou k's now, rust proofed when new so very very tidy, everything works including air ride, digital dash and not a single squeak or rattle while driving. I real gem I recon. Got a few reliability plans for the EA82T to keep it alive forever (under bonnet air/water intercooler to get that intake temps lower and stainless exhaust plus a few other tricks learnt over the years), but keeping it as standard as possible will be the mantra throughout. Bit of a dream car for me to be honest from the moment I saw one in 1985 at a motor show, i even had the Tamiya model of this exact car/colour/interior as a kid!. I think it's an interesting car from an interesting time that people either love or hate (both the time and the car haha) Joins my Brumby as a permanent member of the family along with the everyday drivers.

Oh yeah, forgot about about that, it's 1.5 out from memory but need to run through it again.

Now they fit: But I don't like the angle, its to restrictive and the reeds hardly open. So hell bent on thinking I can do better than the factory i further milled the base to change the angle.

Okay...more porting, followed by more porting... I'll do a bit more on the flow side and then polish it up again.

Great car raisin, look on the bright side, you didnt find any chicken wire and newspaper in there Id do what tortron said. Once its sealed underneath you may be able to reach in from the boot and get some fish oil on the inside for extra protection.

Internal gillies

I'm more OCD than Barry so uniform tints all round wins the mental battle and the windows are already tinted anyway. LOL

I know, there were no signs. they covered it up well it wasnt untill i had a brush under there and the rubber coating started to peel and expose what was beneath. Old lady prior must have had it done.

the Avenger 'Wagon' was classed and even called a "Van" with no interior door handles or window winders in the back seat area (with seats folded flat) /lingor if you're Barry enough to fight it?

No pic update- Just ordered new rear discs for both bikes.. will also put on new pads front and back.. got a used caliper for the 85 sent up from Brown Bros...massive plug for them, paid for it at 4pm yesterday, it turned up before lunch today...outstanding!!! Ive also pulled off all of the wheels on both bikes..will give them a clean and re-grease the bearings etc..all axles are yukasfuk, yup no grease found..id like to strip the suspension pivots too for a re-grease but I dont want it to turn to custard yet. the 250 had sand everywhere, will degrease and clean both bikes and spray them up with alloy wheel cleaner for some shiny shiny time.. the plan is to have both of these ready to ride at Thundercross valley next weekend, which will be the big unveil to the mrs... aka...look at these bikes, yes theyr ours, oops... you got it, she doesnt know they exist yet.

The next day, i noticed this: FFS man, why do i even! So that meant a change to the timetable of Job 3: COOLING SYSTEM from like, whenever yo, to right now already. So, to the bat cave for more crusty shite! Started with the heater unit, its a two part unit that clips together the fan on the bottom is easily removable, to then remove the upper section with matrix and flaps and controls that bolts up under the dash. I had previously 'overhauled' the fan* so i knew it was fine (*its the switch that is patu) and the matrix is the leaky bit. Its actually somewhere around the heater valve thats leaking, so i try undoing the two nuts, one is fine, the other just turns but wont come undone, uhohh. it must be leaking from the loose fastener and new hole that is now behind the gasket. I think the leverage from the mechanism acts on this nut and the brass eventually fatigues and breaks around the captive bolt. This is the one from my 125 that i swapped out already, same failure mode. Not a spare then. this is the other spare matrix. Ah nope, also leaky. The 125p one was in the best nick of a bad bunch so i cleaned out all the muck, greased everything and slathered the valve/matrix joining area liberally with windscreen sealant. Alos swapped the mounting tin over with new foam seal as it was rusty as was the mounting area on the car, so that got a wire bush, rust converted zinc paint and lots of lanocote for good measure as its pretty inaccessible otherwise. Next part, the radiator. Setup in the ute was a bit pants, had a cheap generic 10" fan set up to push, bolted (!) through the radiator, which was also in pretty poor shape with lots of lost and corroded fins. To be fair, the factory fan is also 10" (a later model plastic one is visible inshot) and is also un-shrouded Spare of unknown condition on top looks in slightly better condition, but is older, as it takes a 'long' radiator cap. Ended up doing a PickaPart run and got a nice slim 11" fan from a Toyota Curren and made up a shroud with alloy sheet (left over from the Sign of the Year trailer ) BTW PaP is a bit meh now with numbers and shit, especially when 'supermarket' shopping looking for something that you will know it when you see it rather than from a specific vehicle And installed. For a lack of a 'long' radiator cap i stuck with the original radiator, but removing the bolts must have triggered something as it leaked like a sieve afterwards. Then I checked the cap on my blue sedan, and then stole my first part from it and now the cooling system is much betterer. OEM Toyota Fan is very quiet and moves a LOT more air and cycles in about 2 minutes instead of 10s of minutes like the old cheapy. I also wired in a bypass of the in radiator thermo-switch (which earths out the fan at a lower temp than the thermostat) , as its a bit of a sketchy set up and one cant be too careful, can one. Its running mostly water and dishwasher powder to clean out the coolant system, which is a bit greasy (skum in the overflow). Its getting less greasy with flushes, so hopefully its not a gammy head gasket letting oil into the coolant, but its running way cooler already so, woop!

Sounds like you are trying to find an excuse to bring a van to wagnats.

The want is so huge. Well done mate!

Took it to Kumeu last week - went all good, temperature didnt go above half. Today got these whitewalls sorted, cheap as at STA parts, seem very decent for the price. Managed to drop the profile from 75 to 65, and width from 185 to 175, which is what I was after so pretty happy. Plus I've never had a matching spare in any of my cars, so decided to do it this time.

Just ask, What Would Hunted Do? Answer: bean can and hose clamps, job done

Trust me- this is a cool science project but the line of sight thing is the deal breaker. Buy a few bottles of vinegar and soak the bottom of the door.. Then soak in a baking soda solution afterward. Vinegar is 100000% easier and better than Electrical methods

After sitting for about 6 months it was time to pull her apart. The first thing on the list was the engine, it was out in a couple of hours with no major problems

I thought this was quite a smart way to make speed holes. Never throw that old junk away

Piston received a little love. It was black as black can be with carbon build up. Here it is after 10 minutes sanding: Still looked shit...so I broke out the random orbital, couple minutes on that, then on the buffer wheel...finally got the dome polished where it needs to be. That was way more work than anticipated.

Was this our first merchandise that went into production?????

@Leebo3 What about these for a stroll down memory lane!!!!

and also i finished the last two doors today. fucking long week its been doing all this but im pretty stoked with the outcome. while i was about it i gave the island benchtop and end a sand and another coat of oil. 2018-01-20_05-22-11 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-01-20_05-21-56 by sheepers, on Flickr

Sandblasted and zinc sprayed all the parts that go inside the doors. Also stripped the rubbers and glass out of the vent window frames, sandblasted, epoxied, primed and painted them in 2K black. Did the same to the door and bonnet hinges except did them in the blue. I have already used just over 3 litres of blue so far! Will need to get some more at some stage. Now that all the glass has been removed I made some wooden templates and sent them off to get some new ones cut. Should be done next week sometime and then the doors can be assembled. I have also made a start on the inner guard where the engine was too wide. Have changed my mind many times about how to go about this. Decided it was easier to try and make in two pieces rather than attempting to get one the right shape and fitting nice enough to weld. Although it ended up being made in 3 pieces, because the front compound curved part ended up too small. Worked out really well this way, as I just started with a rectangular sheet of steel with the edge folded, then just trimmed it down until it fitted in the gap. Once it was fitted and tacked in I could make up the compound curved piece to fit. Test fitted it back on and there is heaps of clearance, wasn't sure if there was going to be enough at first. Took it back off to fully weld and sand. Has come out pretty good and it's all quite smooth/blends in very well. Made a start on the lower flange. Needs to raise up in the middle where those two lines are to clear the engine mounts on the chassis.

Honey i blew up the fridge. This was on the evening thursday 21st and I've already lent out the van and are overseas for 3 weeks leaving early morning sat 23rd and can't leave the housesitters without a fridge and the house is a fucking tip and the shops are total chaos and faaaark.....! Solution! UTELISE IT Old fridge off to the dump with a solid load of other carp. Hard parking waiting for a load of boulders to be dropped in the tray from a height like a real mans ute SMUG FACING AT THE DUMP Delivery mode engaged And so thats how Chrismo was saved. Happy Holidays from Straya, ya cunts.

Give yourself a pat on the back man Looks awesome love the look of these slammed and jap wheels

It's on the mend - yay insurance!

So cool! I never knew any made it over here. have worked with them a bunch in Europe, just the ticket for snow at odd angles. It was pretty much the secret allowing us to build this thing

There are always the questions being asked on this forum. "What is considered Oldschool?" or "Is my car Oldschool?" These are always very difficult to answer and to save the conflict you will more often than not be told to piss off. There are no real hard and fast rules for a cutoff date or style and the parameters can change over time but we have decided to try and define this as best as we can here. Some points you will agree with and some you will disagree but this is the best medium we can come up with - accept it - please. Oldschool cars are not defined by make or model or country of origin - so make and country of manufacture is irrelevant - end of story. What we can agree on is that anything made before November 1986 is definitely what we would call oldschool in NZ - this was the date when the government changed from black plates to white plates. We can mostly agree that if the model was made prior to 11/86 and continued into the next few years without a significant facelift would be well regarded as oldschool too - a good example is the Toyota KE70 which was made until mid 1987 and still sold new for the 18 months or so following that. Where it gets muddy is the next 5 years from '87 through '91. Some cars fit and some cars don't. Just as 1949 is a marker with traditional Hot Rods and fenders being moulded into the body then we will say 1989 is a marker for Old School cars and bumpers being moulded into the body. In both cases there are valid arguments for cars on either side of the line that are not considered correct by some. No - there will never be a standard answer for this and there is no need to force your opinion onto others no matter how strong that is. Getting your heckles up and starting an argument over it will result in your thread or post being deleted. Because we don't want the conflict. If you find your project thread has been moved to other projects and you truly believe it should be in the OS projects then PM a mod or admin and put your case forward. Thanks Admin Team