antz

Ok got new M14 rods, also looked online and seems one guy that makes these hooks uses countersunk screws as hooks, which makes perfect sense since they're the right shape. The bottom hooks I'm making from two 2.5mm corner pieces, this doubles the amount of weld that holds it in place. It's definitely looking a lot stronger than the first attempt anyway. Here are the new rods above the old ones for comparison:

Yeah nah, have had a look at some posts of people snapping spring compressors, I think I'm gonna scrap this shit, and redo it with something substantially thicker, and won't weld to rods, instead will weld to the tube that's secured with nuts. Will also use 5mm plate to make hooks. Its cheap enough, I'm not in any hurry, better do this properly.

Finally got around to making up hooks for the trunnion suspension to take the front springs out. Used m10 threaded rods, and 3mm mild steel plate to make hooks. Feels pretty solid but what I'll do is once I jack it up, and release the spring saddles on these hooks, I'll give them a bit of a bash around while it's still inside there and can't go anywhere, so if anything fails itll be still in there. Will definitely be chaining the hell out of it as well while winding it down to release the spring tension, this is gonna be pretty dodgy. Cant wait to get these springs out of there.

Took it to Kumeu last week - went all good, temperature didnt go above half. Today got these whitewalls sorted, cheap as at STA parts, seem very decent for the price. Managed to drop the profile from 75 to 65, and width from 185 to 175, which is what I was after so pretty happy. Plus I've never had a matching spare in any of my cars, so decided to do it this time.

Took it up the road to test it out, didnt go far, seems to go pretty good. Might venture out a bit further next weekend. But man it sits high, gonna have to sort out those munted AMC spring clamps, pull those springs out sit it on it's ass. It's 187mm at the lowest point from body to the ground. So that gives me 3 inches easy and it still wont hit 100m.

New Dizzy, new coil and new leads. Got someone who knows what they're doing to actually tune it properly for once instead of me learning as I go. WOF is due in March, and I don't think it'll pass easy, so I just want to drive it until I'll inevitably have to take it off the road to fix up the rust and whatever else they'll find. But so far it runs really well. Taking it for a decent spin now, hopefully won't be posting a pic of it on the back of a towtruck later this arvo.

Just got the replacement dizzy - the old one had multiple issues so it made sense to just replace the entire thing. Hoping to chuck it in this weekend and get it running, fingers crossed will be able to take it for a cruise on Sunday.

I hear you man. Although, that's why working with old crap is so much nicer than new cars, whatever they use now 0.8mm or whatever steel, vs the old stuff where you can (not that you would want to) get away without using a dolly, or there is never any heat warp from any kinds of orbital work, etc.

Haha your shop must have been much more thorough than mine dude. I dont think anyone worried about thinning the metal when I used to do this, then again most of the time the pitting I came across would get taken out with a DA real quick, anything that wouldnt sand out relatively easily would then get the 36 grit soft disk grind-up, etc.

As Spencer said you can acid it, i've never had issues DAing it till it's nice and shiny, etch priming it and then going from there. A couple of cars I've done in 04-05 like that without any acid treatment are still sweet to this day without anything coming back. Ofcourse, if you acid treat it, it'll only reduce the risk of it coming back so makes sense to do it if you can.

If you have access to a DA, I'd go 80grit on that. It's not too coarse and still does a good job. Go over the entire area or otherwise feather off the edges. Once done, etch prime that with a thin coat before priming it with a hi-fill or whatever you're using.

Check figure 3-1-2 here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact Verse a: "deformation from the original shape that has affected the vehicle’s structural integrity" will be what some might think applies to you. This is down to the inspector. Some might understand that it's clearly nothing to do with the structural integrity and will not worry, some will have a baby over it. To avoid it - I would absolutely cut that piece out, rust kill it, chuck some epoxy based primer on it to stop further spread of rust and bung it up with a rubber/plastic plug like other cars have from factory. This will be totally down to an inspector. There are so many grey areas in VIRM and this is one of many, so by addressing this before the inspection you'd reduce the risk of them failing it.

No worries man. Just getting all the right bits now to make it myself, plenty of people seemed to have made them and good designs/specs have been posted so should be pretty sweet.

Hey man, the VIRM doesnt have it as an exclusion: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/brakes/service-brake-and-parking-brake (see table 8-1-1) which means it'll have to be certed. Looking at LVV standards: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf , section 2.2 verse 23/24: A low volume vehicle may be fitted with one or more proportioning valves which are purposely designed for automotive applications. A proportioning valve which is adjustable from inside a vehicle must have the facility to be temporarily disabled or locked into a position of normal operation to prevent unintended changes in front to rear brake balance occurring whilst the vehicle is being operated on public roads. Based on this it looks like it can be done if certed. I think? Hopefully someone else will be able to confirm.

Mate that's mint!!! Ok, straight to the point then - do you still have the front suspension clamps to extract the springs? If yes - can I either borrow them, or buy them, will pay shipping ofcourse.