antz

Ok got new M14 rods, also looked online and seems one guy that makes these hooks uses countersunk screws as hooks, which makes perfect sense since they're the right shape. The bottom hooks I'm making from two 2.5mm corner pieces, this doubles the amount of weld that holds it in place. It's definitely looking a lot stronger than the first attempt anyway. Here are the new rods above the old ones for comparison:

Yeah nah, have had a look at some posts of people snapping spring compressors, I think I'm gonna scrap this shit, and redo it with something substantially thicker, and won't weld to rods, instead will weld to the tube that's secured with nuts. Will also use 5mm plate to make hooks. Its cheap enough, I'm not in any hurry, better do this properly.

Finally got around to making up hooks for the trunnion suspension to take the front springs out. Used m10 threaded rods, and 3mm mild steel plate to make hooks. Feels pretty solid but what I'll do is once I jack it up, and release the spring saddles on these hooks, I'll give them a bit of a bash around while it's still inside there and can't go anywhere, so if anything fails itll be still in there. Will definitely be chaining the hell out of it as well while winding it down to release the spring tension, this is gonna be pretty dodgy. Cant wait to get these springs out of there.

Took it to Kumeu last week - went all good, temperature didnt go above half. Today got these whitewalls sorted, cheap as at STA parts, seem very decent for the price. Managed to drop the profile from 75 to 65, and width from 185 to 175, which is what I was after so pretty happy. Plus I've never had a matching spare in any of my cars, so decided to do it this time.

Took it up the road to test it out, didnt go far, seems to go pretty good. Might venture out a bit further next weekend. But man it sits high, gonna have to sort out those munted AMC spring clamps, pull those springs out sit it on it's ass. It's 187mm at the lowest point from body to the ground. So that gives me 3 inches easy and it still wont hit 100m.

New Dizzy, new coil and new leads. Got someone who knows what they're doing to actually tune it properly for once instead of me learning as I go. WOF is due in March, and I don't think it'll pass easy, so I just want to drive it until I'll inevitably have to take it off the road to fix up the rust and whatever else they'll find. But so far it runs really well. Taking it for a decent spin now, hopefully won't be posting a pic of it on the back of a towtruck later this arvo.

Just got the replacement dizzy - the old one had multiple issues so it made sense to just replace the entire thing. Hoping to chuck it in this weekend and get it running, fingers crossed will be able to take it for a cruise on Sunday.

I hear you man. Although, that's why working with old crap is so much nicer than new cars, whatever they use now 0.8mm or whatever steel, vs the old stuff where you can (not that you would want to) get away without using a dolly, or there is never any heat warp from any kinds of orbital work, etc.

Haha your shop must have been much more thorough than mine dude. I dont think anyone worried about thinning the metal when I used to do this, then again most of the time the pitting I came across would get taken out with a DA real quick, anything that wouldnt sand out relatively easily would then get the 36 grit soft disk grind-up, etc.

As Spencer said you can acid it, i've never had issues DAing it till it's nice and shiny, etch priming it and then going from there. A couple of cars I've done in 04-05 like that without any acid treatment are still sweet to this day without anything coming back. Ofcourse, if you acid treat it, it'll only reduce the risk of it coming back so makes sense to do it if you can.

If you have access to a DA, I'd go 80grit on that. It's not too coarse and still does a good job. Go over the entire area or otherwise feather off the edges. Once done, etch prime that with a thin coat before priming it with a hi-fill or whatever you're using.

Check figure 3-1-2 here: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact Verse a: "deformation from the original shape that has affected the vehicle’s structural integrity" will be what some might think applies to you. This is down to the inspector. Some might understand that it's clearly nothing to do with the structural integrity and will not worry, some will have a baby over it. To avoid it - I would absolutely cut that piece out, rust kill it, chuck some epoxy based primer on it to stop further spread of rust and bung it up with a rubber/plastic plug like other cars have from factory. This will be totally down to an inspector. There are so many grey areas in VIRM and this is one of many, so by addressing this before the inspection you'd reduce the risk of them failing it.

No worries man. Just getting all the right bits now to make it myself, plenty of people seemed to have made them and good designs/specs have been posted so should be pretty sweet.

Hey man, the VIRM doesnt have it as an exclusion: https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/brakes/service-brake-and-parking-brake (see table 8-1-1) which means it'll have to be certed. Looking at LVV standards: https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Braking_Systems.pdf , section 2.2 verse 23/24: A low volume vehicle may be fitted with one or more proportioning valves which are purposely designed for automotive applications. A proportioning valve which is adjustable from inside a vehicle must have the facility to be temporarily disabled or locked into a position of normal operation to prevent unintended changes in front to rear brake balance occurring whilst the vehicle is being operated on public roads. Based on this it looks like it can be done if certed. I think? Hopefully someone else will be able to confirm.

Mate that's mint!!! Ok, straight to the point then - do you still have the front suspension clamps to extract the springs? If yes - can I either borrow them, or buy them, will pay shipping ofcourse.

I just got this Rambler transported up from Christchurch last week, so at this point the plans are to actually drive a car and enjoy it for once, instead of having it in a never-ending project mode. I'm sure a full body restore + respray will come in the next 6-12 months but for now my goal is to lower it and just drive it around for a few months at least. So this thread won't be anything mindblowing, just keeping a classic running and giving it a tidyup in the near future. It's a 1966 AMC Rambler Classic 770, running stock (even matching numbers) 6 cyl 232 with 3 on the tree. NZ new, first registered in Christchurch, and it's been there up until last week. 3rd owner had it since 76 until 2010, and then last owner before me only seemed to take it out for WOFs and drive it about 50-100ks between warrants. The paint is original, pretty rough but very very clear of rust (for a car of this age). I suspect I'll fail a wof for some surface rust around A pillars, but that'll be a good reason to strip it all down and do a full panel/paint. I went to rip the suspension out of it to try and match it to something a bit more common, and thanks to the good people on this forum I found out that this is running "Trunnion" front suspension which requires a purpose-made clamp and using car's own weight to compress it by jacking the opposing rear corner. Although now I've had someone in a Rambler Facebook group tell me how to pull out the springs without it, but I'd rather not risk my life for the sake of sussing out the right part so will do it properly. So this will have to sit this high for a bit longer until I sort out this clamp. It runs drives / has WOF, Reg. Well, it drove when I dropped it at the transporters week and a half ago in Chch, got here empty on gas and flat battery. I suspect it was left running, ran out of gas, sat there for a bit and fried my points. The points are gone, so I'm replacing them and the rotor at the same time (picking them up tomorrow). Will then blow the fuel line through just in case and will see how it starts. A bit annoying but small price to pay to get this beauty up here. I'm the 5th owner, this is the first time I've owned a car of this age where I had the original ownership paper, and the plates and engine matched. So the ownership cert had to go in a frame, pretty anal I know, but I don't know if this will happen again so might as well make the most of it: There seem to be bugger all of these around, trying to find any parts for them all shops seem to try and juggle between other models of AMCs, so ill start a list of all parts that seem to fit this particular model, and if anyone happens to come across one of these in the future and needs parts, at least there will be a reference of what parts to get: Ignition Points - BOSCH GD 501C Distributor - Cardone 84-1646 or Cardone 301646 Suspension Front shocks: XA Falcon (TBC) Rear shocks: LH Torana (TBC) Front springs: VB-VK Commodore (TBC) Rear springs: ? will find out

Yup I figured the same so have chucked it all back how it was for now. Gonna get that tool either shipped over or will make one, and will follow their directions on how to take it out safely.

Mint thanks man. Yeah reading over that AMC forum reply seems like this might be the only way to do it properly (and safely).

When I remove the shock, the bit (no idea what it is, its in the last pic - like a wishbone but its made of 2 separate sections) - it sits on the chassis rail and prevents the whole thing dropping further down. I suspect I may need to undo the steering control arm and then perhaps try and undo this wishbone?

From the front: From the back:

Nope nothing at the top. Flat plate. There is a single bolt but nothing can be pulled upwards.

Hey it's a 66 Rambler Classic 770. Just came across a post here: http://theamcforum.com/forum/rambler-classic-front-suspension_topic4109.html 3rd post down says you gotta jack up the opposite rear corner to put load on the spring, then somehow hook it , etc. Hmm.

Never thought I'd ever be asking this question but this got me stuck. Ive never had to remove front springs which aren't mcpheresons struts, normally strut comes out, spring compressors, losen the shocks, all done. But not here, I jacked up the hub, took the shock out, the whole thing dropped quite a bit lower, tried compressing the spring as much as I could, but its still tight as in there. I dont want to cut it as I need to size it up to something common that matches this so I can lower it. But no idea how to actually compress the spring enough to pull it out. Has anyone come across this before? Any help would be appreciated. Attempted spring compressing, its not happening.

Ok I ended up grabbing this one here (the 34mm version): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Six-diameter-24-26-28-30-32-34-mm-Mikuni-universal-Carburetor-parts-Scooters-with-power/32397946437.html Looking at the graph that Locost_Bryan posted it'll be a bit low on power, but we aren't planning to rev the crap out of it anyway. The carb looks extremely simple which is the main point of this for now. Thanks again for everyone's help.

locost_bryan mate thanks for that, thats exactly what I needed.