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After many years of not owning an X, it looks like I'll be rejoining the faithful few. A 78 serie speciale was my first car about 18 years ago, and I've had a couple since then. I kept in touch with the guy who bought my last X and recently caught up with him. He agreed to sell me the green on e in the middle - but freight between our north and south islands pretty much doubles the price. Maybe it's a sentimental buy - but I wanted a serie speciale again, and a project - and it's definitely a project! Been sitting for at least 5yrs it's it's current location - and another 5yrs prior to that. So, its been a few weeks since I negotiated to buy the car, and we managed to pick it up over the weekend...it was a great 800km trip! We managed to get it running after a few hours, got the brakes and clutch bled, and away she went... The only issue (thus far), is that the battery light comes on and the battery doesn't get any charge. We spent about 4hours trouble-shooting the issue (power going in to the alternator, but not out), and took the alternator out, apart, and put it back in - with no success. Then we had an epiphany that we would try bypassing the voltage regulator, which worked and the battery gets full charge now. So a new voltage regulator is in order I feel. Anyway, she's parked up in the garage now - and I'm deciding what to tackle first. I need to stop the spread of any rust fairly quickly (although overall it looks not too bad), and then will probably move to getting the doors/windows adjusted so they open/close properly, then move on to some interior items to get the seats moving properly. I'm thinking I'll keep it running for now, and just tidy it up for a wof. Then slowly start stripping it back down for a proper restore... DISCUSSION THREAD:

Pics as sorta promised... well these are just a few from my Coke Club visit (the tuner shop). Still looking through relevant stuff for N360. Will be putting together my model soon too that I picked up from Japan, pics to come too. Been a year since buying it, feel sad I havent done a lot, soon tho bby, soon. Cleaning out garage more and more to get back into it so I may require you beautiful peoples help for how to old car things.Hoping to get the brake components removed and cleaned etc this year. A visit to ABC is soon i think CokeClubs race car, custom suspension, flares etc. Pretty damn cool Me cutting deals with the owner Takashi. View from upstairs office Stepvan that makes me all sorts of wet The workshop The workshop sign

i think i have another one somewhere….. also if you can drop your off about this time next year and give me about 30k to get started ill get stuck into it. that should net me about 16$ an hour.

I have this beast 1970s vintage 72cc and is rolling a 28 inch bar

Here's a coupe more pics as she currently sits.

Went to BIke Summit. Loaded bikes and people in, on and around the car. Such a packhorse. 5 bikes, 3 sexy men and a sexy lady.

So uhhh more things have happened, though I have very few pics because my sd card has been failing for awhile and I didn't notice. Dave and I ummed and ahhhd about the shitty UJ angles, and it was clint who gave us the idea to use cv joints from a commodore driveshaft. So we crawled around under some smelly commodores and fetched the sloppiest driveshafts zebra had to offer. I don't have any pics of what they looked like factory but here's what an end looks like. The adaptor that bolts to the cv and slides into the gearbag Here's the adaptor that bolts between cv and diff. Got some aliexpress exhasut wrap and did a thing. Lots of grunting, swearing, hitting and drilling and driveshaft loop is in. I wanted to move the spring perch forward so the diff can happily sit back further, threaded rod tells me where to put the centre of the perch. So It was about now that I got real unhappy at how much toe in it had, and I was real eager to have a go at fixing it, unfortunately my phone didn't save heaps of pics. How to bend diff: 1) remove everything not a diff case and make a jig around it to stop it flying into orbit when the welds break. 2) remove centre bits from diff head and spin up some bushes from delrin to replace the carrier bearings 3) spin up an "axle" from a piece of bar 4) put the things in place and now you can measure where your "axle" is sitting in the housing and use secret dave maths to calculate camber and toe 5) use bottle jack to abuse the diff case into submission 6) measure, success, marvel at the simplicity After this, dave very kindly donated his steel barrels and tyres (bruh skids on) for me to make some wheels that fit, I don't have any pics of this either but it briefly features on snapchat (thanks pooman) So yea grind the flange from the barrel that used to be there from a previous life, cut the shit out of a townace centre and hydraulic press that bitch in. Bolt onto car, adjust offset and run out with DTI magnetted to a mazda engine block and you're good to go to glue it together. Somewhere in amongst all that, dave sneakily tightened the shit out of the gilies and I believe it's tuned to a high c? They look absolutely perfect on the car, I couldn't be happier. Huge thanks to dave the tame machinist, he didn't choose the brap life.

Im building a pedal car fron scratch this time,mainly so I can get good at fabricating and welding for big boy cars.Welding 3 mm steel is definitely much easier than 0.8 mm steel .The steering rack and column look good and work great the rear axle was difficult to heat and bend up ive only got a gutless torch at present so will need a bigger one if I keep on this track.

Just had one of these kits arrive at work(BNT), might be what you are after? Suits M14 spark plugs, Can do one for $20 inc gst Edit: 2nd pic didnt post, was on mobile

If sheepers cant find it - I may be able to help

Does your fuel tank have a vent in the cap? as in, is the fuel able to flow freely down to your carb, with the fuel cap on?

So as I mentioned, tonight was the inaugural giving of the Oldschool.co.nz, Taranaki Chapter, Hardcore Trophy. The trophy is made from only the most hardcore grade of steel, Corten, named so because it is 10 out of 10 core hardness. Corten will get a healthy patina going on, but won't go properly rusty, so this trophy will age and become more hardcore as it gets passed from member to member. The trophy can be given to any member at a monthly meet for any reason, be it doing something awesome, helping someone out, organising an event, turning up in a bitchin car etc, anything! The trophy will be handed out by whoever is holding it, so if you win the trophy one month, you get to choose the winner at the next meet. Unless you don't want to choose, then you can nominate that the area rep make the decision. Tonight's winner of the trophy is Duke Blackwood (Steve). Duke won the trophy for two reasons: a - He was the only person who showed up. b - For donating such an awesome trophy! Thanks Steve for donating the trophy! Hopefully its something we can all get a laugh out of in the future!

Pics are fixed.

Electronic ignition added. Nothing much, just pleasure knowing I dont have to deal with points again. Got a few things to conveniently fix over the net 6 months before next WOF. Underside of car is looking less than desirable, need new tyres, brakes need adjusting. I purchased an 1100 for this, so hopefully tidy it up and see what it's got going on. I should learn how to strip down the simplest motor in the world.

i got a warrant!!!! its taken a damn while but Its been a long time between updates, reason being nothing much has happened while i've been waiting for my bonnet to be repaired. All that was needed for the wof was brake pads and bonnet rust fixed. After having this sit for so long with no bonnet (months) while it was getting fixed several average things happened to this seemingly cursed wag 1 - one day after moving around in my driveway the water pump decided its had enough of life and split its seal and subsequently drops half the water on the ground. Lame. Luckily i kept the new one that was on the other 1geu i replaced with this engine. 2 - Apparently spark plug threads aren't water tight when rain water sits on them for extended periods of time..... must have been pretty close to fucking itself because when i tried to start it one day it locked up solid! oops! with that shit all sorted it was time to put my sexy rust free bonnet on and get a warrant. Then upon returning home from said warrant the engine started loosing a substantial amount of power which was strange after it ran so well untill then. Had normal power for about 3-4 seconds after i buried the accelerator and then died down to almost nothing until i bcaked the throttle to about 1/4 . I decided this was probably another fuel blockage .... boy was i right Might be time to clean the tank out! And that's where I'm at right now. Must be time to lower it finally

sohc, you should start a company making self tapping 15.5mm sparkplugs.

certainly sounds like an intake choke with it only really acting up on high load situations. had similar issues with a scooter not reving out properly and it was because the carb had a pipe on it that didn't have a bell mouth intake and at higher rpm is was choking it off. tiny filter would do the same

Haha dope trophy. Was busy on shed missions/ helping set up the old mans milling machine

I concur with Chris, it won't be gear ratio. Gotta be either carb or electrical. Fuel is easiest to sort so check it all out first. Something as simple as partially blocked carb jets or a lose earth connection can cause same symptoms. Don't know what sort of carbs those Chonda Chinese knock offs have but if its a knock off carb as well - throw it in the bin. The engine doesn't matter so much but the carb does, very very fine tolerances and decent manufacturing are a must for carbs. Ask anyone who has bought / tried to use a cheap knock off carb and you will never hear anything good to say about them.

Clean your jets out. If the tank was full of shit there is every bit chance some shit is in there. Cant imagine gearing ratio is that different. And yeah check timing. If all failw take the mega reliable always cooler two stroke !!!

this was great! Everyone had ripstarters upstairs at de coree and it was good.

Mmmm.. dangerous chainsaws Got given these two XL12's, both run good but could do with carbs reco'd Reds 1972 Blues 1968 and is my main saw, now has a 20 inch bar.. can only use it for about an hour and then the fuel starts to boil haha Also bought a first gen 1964 XL12 at the swap meet last year for 5 bucks with the view for parts but it started and ran so it can keep going..

yes.

I dig the whitewalls. I've seen a Hunter with flappers which looks terrible, mainly because they emulate a wide whitewall. The thin whitewall looks much better and suits the age of the car. These are the whitewall tyres that STA parts sell: Click the picture to go to the trademe auction.

So in the discussion someone told me i should try whitewall tires on it What does everyone think about it? It needs more lowness first tho haha. (Its just a quick go on Photoshop)

On the home straight of sanding now. One side done up to 600 grit, the other up to 120. Next up will be heat treatment. Still yet to build the legs for the mini forge, but the burner is now complete - also visible in the above pic. The non burny end of the burner has the following assembly - pretty much just a valve and a couple of brass bits fitted/brazed together to attach a standard BBQ hose and fit it to the 15mm steel pipe. Have a couple of oriface options with a 0.8mm and 1.0mm option. Can just buy more caps and have different sized holes drilled if necessary At the end of the day its just an oversized Bunsen Burner - hopefully enough to heat the forge up to the 800 degrees I need toe knife to reach before dunking it in oil

I have been getting carried away with the second row seat mount design... Also I found a little man who does auto electrical stuff and now the charging issues are fixed, it was just a bung connector in the charging wire between the alternator and the battery. Stoked with that. There was an issue with the rear lights and the RH indicator, which turned out just to be blown bulbs - this was slightly embarrassing. Still, I am not an electricians arsehole and have never pretended to be...

Why don't ya make a nice less bulky arm rest so there's no seat there at all.

hmmmm maybe i will try sell later brake set-up and try find 2nd gen solids, according to lvta hobby car manual even if i retained drums i would need to run a dual circuit master anyway, which is far safer so makes sense. the joys of the snow ball effect from thinking hell yea twin cam efi

b1500/1600 1969-77 have single circuit master with drums all-round, so far I'm thinking, option 1: get shoes re-lined, and try brake test/ maybe add booster depending on feel option 2: try find next generation b1600 solid discs and boost front circuit only. note: in no way do I want to cheat the certification process i want it to be safe and legal in every way sr2 you are correct it wouldn't be suitable if it was tandem, but i have heard its possible to use two vh44 or the likes to boost both circuit and maybe add proportion valve for rear

Is it still mullet man doing the test ?

I finally got this back after my own laziness and tbh money stuffs. (visas are expensive) But i painted my ute, triumph is chugging along nicely as a daily for the missus so i free'd up enough plastic to get these parts home Surely would've been easier to stick a 4age or CA18 or, even an RB but feck it. i love the sound of these little motors on carbies and its got a bench seat and a column 4 speed manual for epic cruising times so no fucks given fun times ahead, after another few parts are sourced. Note the size difference in the rocker gear. The Valves are 2mm bigger than stock as far as i can make out ( they're a bit difficult to measure with the verniers once installed.) inlet 38.4 exh. 32.5 Cam specs Power Band: 3000-7000rpm Valve Lift: 0.349" Duration: 286° Timing Figures: 35/71/71/35 Inlet Timing: 108° ATDC Inlet lift at TDC: 0.077" Valve Clearances: .020" inlet/.022" exhaust +60 oversize pistons. 82mm. rods are original but have been checked, balanced and 'weighted' together. dunno the proper term. this is the only thing limiting the redline really, the cam will run out of steam at about 7000 but if i wanted to stick a wilder cam in it in the future, with proper rods and the rest of the work its set for the racetrack. The difference between the old main caps Vs the new. held in with arp studs and nuts. Electronic dizzy with expensive coil (because chrome) mapped with the right curve for my cam. and a boring cover plate, but its been balanced right through with the flywheel and crank. And i got these bad boys today. Chur to Shaneo for putting me onto them. These are exaclty what i wa after Quattros 13x7. 4x108PCD. Not an easy wheel to find it turns out. but man i'm chufed to bits with 'em. all i need is nuts to bolt them on too they're ready to go. bonus. She's gone from whitewall grandads car to bogan staple in 15 seconds im still shopping but that is the bulk done. thank fuck. the missus would actualy kill me is i had anymore bills to pay like these! haha (nervously laughs whilst sweating) Discussion. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46071-mighty-joes-english-duo-cortina-67-triumph-74/ I\l update this a bit more regularly now. i'm hoping to get the car home this weekend if i can get the trailer and work on it at home instead of having it in the workshop.

Look around some wreckers or online (what ever your cheap goods page is there, gumtree here..) Find some used drawers from a 4wd and fit in the back. all ya small stuff goes in the drawers. And mowers on top. Make up a folding ramp setup that once you Open tailgate you just fold it down and roll the mower up and in. Saves ya back. Then grab a second hand cargo barrier from a wagon or van etc and fit it in to stop mowers etc from entering the seating area. And id definitely be getting the jerry cans out of the cabin.... the fumes will be a c@#t. Not to mention over here most cops would grill you on the spot for having them in the cabin.

good guess!

Not lying actually do want that tape player, PM sent

Being a complete noob I made a couple of mistakes, but got there in the end. I wondered if the corrosion mark in the bore was because it had blown a head gasket at some point, and been left with water sitting in it? It is now 1310cc (had to go up a size to get rid of the corrosion) It ended up needing a replacement crank - had a huge crack in it. I got the cam reground to a Kent MD266 profile. This is what happens when you try to flip the gearbox over by yourself to bolt it onto the block, and drop it on your arm: I fitted a lightened double row timing chain and checked the cam timing. It was retarded by 7 degrees! Ended up fitting an offset woodruff to get it right:

I took it into what turned out to be the most expensive engine reconditioner in town. After the price estimates kept getting higher, I told them just to do the machining, and decided to have a go at rebuilding it myself. This was pretty daunting for me since I hadn't (and still haven't) replaced a wheel bearing or ball joint etc. Might as well start with the hardest job!

Minor update. I've done a couple of things. Made a tow bar and found a nice piece of chain on the road that now lives on the bulldozer. Made a shifter so I can change between first and second in the auxiliary gearbox. It is much faster now especially in reverse. Fitted a new exhaust. Took it to some motor scooter thing. Then I towed some stuff and posed a bit. Does anyone else here get fizzed up about chainsaws?

http://iforce.co.nz/i/11bhjgyv.xof.jpeg http://iforce.co.nz/i/yi2x0igv.ha5.jpeg http://iforce.co.nz/i/thbdyegw.oug.jpeg http://iforce.co.nz/i/fjyqgw3b.f3g.jpeg http://iforce.co.nz/i/nfqnoysd.jj0.jpeg

Shit got a birthday, new studs and nuts all round;

drilled or slotted rotors can help. the short version of why? when pads get hot, some of the stuff that bonds the pad together turns to gas. this microscopic layer of gas prevents the pad from 'gripping' the disc. the slots in a slotted disc let the gas out, reducing fade.

A supertrapp for each pipe

Last weekend I picked up this slammin' parts car. Beneath the rough spots it is actually a decent car with minimal rust, and it has a full black interior including leather. So most of that including the carpet will be going into mine. I will be keeping my Mtech seats however. Yesterday I started fitting my M5 replica front lip. Test fit: Paint: On: I also swapped the good fender from the parts car onto mine. It's actually in better condition than the last one was before the hit and the color matches close enough for now. Nevermind the sagging bumper, I will be putting my new one on shortly too. Started cleaning up some of the black interior parts from the parts car to go into mine: I'm going to be fitting the non AC center console from the parts car, just need to make a panel to fit my radio and I'm going to incorporate a space for some gauges while I'm at it: Also this arrived today: After a very long and tiresome search, I should have a single mass flywheel in the next couple days. So with any luck, the car will be going again by next week. Then I can cruise around and show off all my nice new parts.

Today I made good use of nothing to do and pulled the gearbox off to see what disaster awaited me. What I came upon wasn't pleasant. Those with weak stomachs dare not read on. This is what fell out as I separated the gearbox from the block: The remains in the bellhousing: Then I went back under the car to have a look at the pressure plate and remove that behemoth of an assembly. This is what awaited: I was not expecting that, and can't say I've seen that before. It must have been one hell of a party in there (which I funded by the way). The total sum of the destruction: Luckily no damage was done to any other parts so I can just put on the new flywheel and clutch kit and hopefully carry on with skids. I don't like to end on a down note, so here is a stance picture: Phwoar.

An actual update! Surprised how easy this was, not perfect ( a few small bubbles) but only took an hour from woah to go (pulled the panel off the car to make life easier) and looks a million times better. cheap too! Its just cheap stuff ($8/m for a 40cm strip) but at that price I dont care if it fades overtime or whatever Excuse the potato photos Discussion //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/41006-beavers-87-gloria-wagon/page-4

Got it idling. And bonus points, it moved under it's own steam about 10cm (We're in a pretty tight garage!) But after warming it up completely, few things to note: still potentially a missfire in there somewhere, running rich, still only has 85psi compression (Should have 160) Guess a rebuild is in order. 2016 perhaps I can figure something out. Before I rebuild however, I'll probably do some Italian tuning. Maybe try that sea foam stuff or whatever its called? I needs someone to either bring me a leak-down tester or help me feeler gauge the valves to see if the issue exists there. In other news, found out you can bore the sleeves on these bad boys and run EB1 Civic pistons, giving us ~400cc, newer/easier to find piston rings. May give me that 3hp I need to beat the Mrs' Mini in a micro-car drag race Next on the list is to put it up on stands and pull all the brakes off and rebuild. Then when that's done I can bring her outside and hoon (See: "Go fucking slow") down the road. Excitement level 4.

Goat you beautiful man you. She runs finally. Spark issue in the end, condenser is poked, joe happened to have one rolling around his flatmates starlet. Rangi mod installed and she fired up pretty much first pop. Grin was ear to ear.

Tried to start the gay little thing lol. Friend Nathan came around, we started the day off with some creamy blue cheese on crackers and cup of tea, really to set the mood good. Made some pork rib dry rub in preparation for a bbq after the lundy 500 in a couple weeks then got down to business. Replaced oil, plugs, fuel (Jesus the fuel, it resembled coke when we drained the old stuff out!). Found this car has an electric petrol pump, sounds like a very small bilge pump lol. Enough about that, inspected the points, connected a battery up, tried to turn it over. *Clunk*. Unsure what I was thinking to be honest. Hmmm. Lets try 14 times more to see if it was just an off chance. *clunk*, nope. Still poked. Rocked the car back and forth, tried again, nothing. Another friend josh came over as he's an electrical genius, cleaned a few earth, ran some tests over the car for voltage etc. Tested relays, seem fine. Manually spin the motor over a few rototions with a spanner, still nothing. That sad moment you have to figure out how a Motor-Generator works. The silly thing doesn't have a starter motor, it has a motor and generator in 1. When you apply juice to the motor it spins and start the motor, but as it's spinning it generates power, so when the car continues to run, the motor's spinning and generating power. Oh Honda, you produce some innovative hunks of crap, but it's still very cool. Well next time I'll be taking electrical stuff apart and looking a bit like this while doing it as I really have no idea.

just had a mental pic of pete on a pulsed owt tanga dozer with modgie centers for the tracks, flat peak cap, gang sign fingers, camo seat cover, dented k&n filter sticking out of the hood, gillyz.......