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Car is now at work which is a good/bad thing - less work more car... Tin is pretty much there barring holes in the firewall for wires and such things... Still a bit of a list but not far off

The gearbox is also mounted now, I have some pics of that so will post when I cbf but for now here's the car parked outside before loading up. First pic of the thing not at my house/parked regular style on the street in over 5 years. IMG_8964 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Front is going to come up slightly, I had it sussed when it had no engine in it but obviously the game's changed with the heft of a 4AG in the bay.

Almost ready for those top coats

Been a while since I posted but thought I would share my misfortune and luck. I went to the drags the other weekend towing my car and as I pulled out of Shell the carby shit itself and started running rich as feck. I got to the track and back home after having to idle it at about 2500-3000rpm and decided it was time to throw the 4-barrel on it. After trying the 600 admitted defeat as I bought it off TM as a rebuilt tested carb which flooded the first time I started and couldn't run no matter what I tried so bit the bullet and went to my parts box and pulled out the old 450 4-barrel which has been passed around on all sorts of V8's from a 253 to a 350 in a 4wd and it ran. Not great but I could drive it. Just finished giving the old a girl a tune and now it's running better than it ever has and pulls well to 5000rpm, next has to be the flows and maybe the cam later. I also have a VH dizzy which I bypassed the computer by running it direct to the ignition

So I ended up getting my new exhaust gasket just after Christmas And just ended up removing some of the exhaust studs that were too Short and put them back in the opposite side as someone had put them In on the long thread side. Got inlet and exhaust fitted up all sweet with some new washers And nuts Then I thought I would get some new studs for the inlet/carb Side along with some new nuts while waiting for Webber Specs to open up again for my new carb gasket as mine Had a torn in it and was missing the correct washers for it So I started with shortening up my new studs so they would Look nice and fit flush with the nuts etc Then February came around and I received my New gasket and then realised that I had not remembered That the new gasket came with some rubber washers and I had not allowed room on the studs for them so I fucked up And had to buy new studs again! Then this happened Now she's going and making Dort noises as it should! Also removed the rocker cover and Gave it a bit of a polish up

so , here we are again , a new year, and time to get back into the swing of thing, I have been getting side tracked allot . need to get focused . i went hard out on the mini project, and its so close to being finished, but then i got a bike. . . . 12000 rpm sounds so freeking sweet !!! so any who, this is what i have been up to on the carina front sump , its now real , just need to get the walls folded up so I can weld the sucker up. then make some kind of baffling I guess. . . this is the 3rd one of these I have concocted (water bridge) and yeah its not super great, shit as welding, the flat bit to miss the belt didn't go according to plan. it has been a pain in the ass trying to figure out a nice and clean way to plumb the front water bridge, the entire design from factory is very out of the norm. so this has and still is so far my biggest challenge. I may even do this again and try find some oval pipe and pie cut it . my ocd isn't happy with the out come thus far . . did some more plumbing, got all the vac lines done, booster done, here is a pasanger side picture of engine bay . and started doing some cad . . but not with a computer, haha, this intake pipe is a monster, its cause I chose to keep the m112 throttle body . and I couldn't find a 4.5 inch 45 degree bend and a reducer all in one. so I just thought fuck it, just stay at that size , I have the room for it, and hopefully it will make a sweet roar and awesome dort type sounds . . this is it in panel steel. I ran out of card board for the day. so tomorrow ill get stuck into it some more. got some other shit done , finally got some material for my wheels, and I made a sold works design of the wheels I want but cant find. the elusive Riverge . kind of like work equips but with a bit more style . so once I have a bit more things completed I can start milling them . I figure ill get the sump done first other wise I cant stay focused enough to do to big chunks of the project at once . I always end up getting of task and starting some other half pie idea but yeah I still have completed a few little jobs like making the heater control panel work properly, made a clutch hose up. sold some shit to buy a bike, got a license to drive it, then I got some beer, and I got a new bbq. . . . shit getting side tracked again . mmmmm bacon .

More Red !

Just In case people didnt know So this is happening http://www.eventfinda.co.nz/2015/the-great-wellington-truck-show/upper-hutt Truck Show, 13th of March at the Trentham memorial Park

The work piled in today but still managed a couple hours after work to spend on my little project. Got a bit of the front suspension painted- struts, swaybar,hubs and springs. I think the black blue and silver will work? Whatta reckon? Also finally finished repairing the dash with resin and epifill which has now joined the rear seat at the auto trimmers

Been overseas for a few weeks, but got back on Saturday, Sunday got back into the rust bucket. Only one major drivetrain parts assembly remains to to be unbolted from the body: geddoudofit Axle seals leak, (have new ones 'in stock') but so does the pinion seal which i dont have . Pinion is leaky to the extent that on removing the diff/driveshaft flange it was literally full of old diff oil which is always nice, but on the positive side has also kept the underside pretty well rust proofed . The parts car wont save me this time as has no spare diff head to swap in, and i also hope the wheel bearaings are ok (as retaining collars are NLA?) and im not keen on speding up large for a full diff rebuild (the old mark and slightly over tighten will do for now i think!) Ill also replace the hard brake lines while im there (only has a soft line from the body to the diff tee), and add lowering blocks & new bumps Anyway with that off i could play with the ride height (the rear is about 3" lower at rear from where it was sitting before the front torsion bars are wound up as far as they will go (lower arms are just above horizontal)

put some bog into this to try and get the shape a bit better. at the end of the day its a fiberglass part and its never going to be prefect but it looks a bit better now. i put another coat of primer on it and ill block it tomorrow night and see how it looks, if its looking ok ill put some colour on it. 2016-02-23_08-44-10 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-02-23_08-43-54 by sheepers, on Flickr

spacing the caliper is not a problem, make sure the bolts are long enough etc. also i assume that pic is with the caliper not bolted down? something that a few people get tripped up with is using calipers that dont match the discs- ie the pad hangs off the top of the disc, or a caliper designed for a 30mm thick disc fitted on a 24mm thick one, the pads can fall out or jam when they wear down

Well after the hiccup with the head gasket I repaired it and then took it to the Drag racing yesterday. Off the trailer it ran a 14.1 @ 97mph with a 1.97 60ft - I was like sweet that launched and no spinning I then ran a few 14.0's while I tried to work out my shift light and that pushed me into 13.9 and 13.8's. I DYO'd 13.85 and buttoned off at the line until a Skyline beside me pushed me hard to the line and I ran 13.7 but because he red lit I won The last couple of runs I couldn't get traction and the track was going off as others had similar issues, the weather had a lot to do with it. I was so impressed with this little car and so many others

so yet again I have changed jobs, worked out that I was over fixing other people cars. and even thought I up skilled I just couldn't get the pay I wanted. so I have jumped in the deep end and now I am an apprentice cnc machinist/tool maker. back to the bottom of the pecking order once again. ANYWAY. . . . so couldn't move around in the garage, needed to re decorat Started by making a dedicated metal working station, something that I could bolt everything to so they stop moving around when loading up. couple hours later I had this bad boy Then the move around , shit is much better this way !! So cool to have my tools at home, fuck yeah! So got some gas and continued making exhaust. . . And had to bend up some ten mm rod for hangers, I couldn't get my hands on a gas set, so I managed to borrow and old school torch. this thing is so bad as that I went and bought my self-one for any time I need some heat!!! it got the rod to cheery red, so not quite white hot, but hot enough to bend and easily manipulate. this is a paraffin burner, or as we call them in new Zealand kerosene torch. I made some washers on the lathe at work, slid them on . Then I made a pinching tool so I could heat up and form the ends of the rod so that the rubbers won’t fall off . It was all really good fun , never formed anything before so this was a sweet thing to learn how to do . And since that is all done I decided to plug up some of the extra cooling system barbs that I won’t be using . So it took this amount of fucking around to drill out the old fittings and tap them for a 1/8 bspt plug. I did a couple more but you get the idea, this was hard because nothing is flat or straight to drill and tap. I also decided to mill up the original idle air control valve, got rid of the cooling barbs on this too, this is what it looked like originally and now this is my adapter plate , milled and new tinny air filter, IAC completed ! with that all done I decided to move back to suspension and wheels . I worked out that the spring rates from the Honda springs are up the shit, and they are not heavy enough. and if I cut them any smaller they need keeper springs. So I borrowed some siliva suspension, and I made some rough template spring hats, my idea was to move the spring down so that the top mount could be narrower to make it fit into the rear shock mount. well long story short it all didn't work , really fucked me off . I got so fed up with trying to design and make suspension work that I threw in the towel and bought some mx73 bc's. so now I am waiting for them to arrive. since I couldn't get them right away I thought I would tape on the flares so I could start looking at rims, borrowed my good mates wheels again for measuring . 8 inch on the front 9 inch on the rear and still got a lot to fill. looks like I will be buying some custom wheels ! my pockets are hurting already and I haven't even found out the price for them yet

Alright! I haven't collected this, but I will be tomorrow. Hasn't run in awhile, been told it has good spark with low compression so it won't run properly. Pretty excited to have something to tinker with, I guess I should pull it apart and check the rings etc first? Pic for thread; Cheers!

New rad should be sufficient with the stock fan/plumbing setup shouldn't it? If it was mine I'd try it like that first - make sure the fan is attached the correct way around.

I wonder if the toe-in and wheel alignment is working against you towing it like that. Might be better with the front wheels on the dolly.

First off FUCK WHITE KNIGHT PAINT!!! :-x Been curing for days, baked with heat gun, baked in the oven, still soft enough to smear with a rag!! Going to scrub the engine with a rag and brake cleaner, mask it and just blow it over with plain old silver or black high temp Anyway, bearings and seals arrived from VG, so I armed myself with some dry ice and put my cases in the oven, decided to risk it with the bushings fitted I just kept a close eye on them! Went together easily enough! Got in trouble for the shitty paint ruining her good chopping board Even remembered how the gears go lol Yet again the 4 stroke engine came through for me, like new brake pads! And that's about where I'm up to, think I've seated my smaller crank seal too deep so will need to get another one, and I don't want to go fitting the manifold and new cylinder etc up before I repaint it, so tomorrow I'm planning on fitting an old cyl with no piston, covering all the openings and masking it all the best I can so I can try to wash all this paint off Oh and had a play with the LED lightbar I was going to use as a headlight originally Kinda ugly, but function over form!

Copied GWA and adapted the new, smaller rad to the old shroud/mounts. Turned up a couple of spacers to fill the gap. Also gave the shroud a quick sandblast - ready for paint. What do you guys think about... A. Leaving the OEM fan on and putting the new electric one on the other side VS removing the OEM fan? B. Swapping to a header tank/pressurised radiator system (like on a mini) VS keeping the current pressurised expansion chamber system? Discussion link in me sig.

Yeah that's what I have been doing. Keep it all under 400 NZD

beat me to it haha

yeah probably means worn loose-ish rings? hopefully its not all slappy but a rebore is pretty cheap. you can get top end big bore kits for them pretty easy too. clean the carb first - dunno if theyre points or CDI but check points if it has them. Carb + points will be most of your starting issues sorted

Is this a suitable no-weld solution for joining my booster rod? Sleeve is 4340 and once you give the go-ahead i will pin both ends of the shaft with rollpins. Under the sleve the two shaft ends are hard against one another so during braking the rollpins and sleve take SFA load.the sleve is a very snug fit.

Soo what are the rules regarding spacing out calipers. I test fitted some Holden calipers on my struts today. They bolt up but the disk sits off centre. What is the legalaty on placing a spacer between the caliper and mounting lugs?? Like a 4mm plate. Here is a pic of how the disk and caliper are off .

An old radio will have it's own faceplate which will cover the original white lettering. You poke the spindles through the existing holes, place the faceplate over the top and then screw the retainer nuts and knobs on. A modern radio looks worse, plus you can hide it elsewhere. Once cut you cannot undo the damage done to the dash. Seems a shame to butcher it to fit a new radio in.

I actually found an incar video against a quick Holden ute where i hit 3rd way too early. I think this was my 3rd run and I sorted the shift light after this run.

been there done that ,with real results on 11.5 to 1 was better to use bp 98 made 156 kws on std motor .on e85 made 158kws same day same dyno ,but the bp made more through the midrange and uses less fuel ,e85 was 30 % more used over the bp but you are right but for 30%more fuel used i stayed with the bp

Been a while, but waiting to see some results. Pleased to share that after changing the pcv valve with a second hand one, consumption has reduced to half a litre in the last 1800km. Might buy a brand new pcv when I'm in the States next month. $12 US versus $130 plus Gst ex Japan (main dealers in NZ take piss-taking to new heights)

Gals bike is a fat bike that we turned up side down.

Too polite to lift a cover but happy to deface/graffiti their door? ...interesting... The juxtaposition of Run Free with two "cross-boned" AK-47's is a little odd to say the least. The AKA on the rear quarters of the car is quite yuck, IMO Otherwise though, you've done a fairly good job with the ol' Corolla shopping trolley. Good work.

Picked up a new radiator from Redline so that'll be the final piece of the puzzle in the cooling system dilemma. Going to have to sort out some mounting brackets this week and decide whether to route the expansion chamber to the new spout (and get a flat cap for the radiator) or go with the pressurised cap that came with it and put a header tank next to the window washer fluid. Also got a screw on oil filter housing on the way so that should go in this week too.

Nearly done, might put some more horizontal east-west bars coming off the wide V parts (if that makes sense) as it looks a little empty there. Then I guess it can all be welded and the engine can go back in to figure out mounting and driveshaft hoops etc. Picked up a commodore diff as well, since it has disc brakes. So can also start setting up the 4 links as well.

Yep, they're staying.

if you do it properly/tidily etc then you should be ok, a wof inspector can ask for a panelbeaters report if he (or she, lol) has any doubts as to the quality of the repair

It has a step on the left side. One puts their right foot on it and scoots a bit of speed up. Then one transfers their left foot onto the left pedal and swings their right leg over the seat. One is now tall biking!

I'll start. Chris R and I are driving down to Horopito on Wednesday the 2nd of March. We have accommodation just up the road from Horopito Motors (Smash Palace). It is a small lodge with separate toilet/shower facilities for male/female stayers and has 1.5 acres of land, plenty of parking. There are 10 beds and space for up to 20 people to stay the night. So far it looks like it will just be Chris, Mrs Chris (maybe) and myself staying there. But if you're a responsible person who won't make a mess then feel free to express interest. It's very cheap per night (just making inquiries now)_ and will be even cheaper with more people. We'll stay the night there on Wednesday the 2nd of March and leave the next day. You can either go to the track day, explore the area or head straight to the Nats venue once it opens. Here is the Horopito accommodation:

Big 3 day weekend. Netting, drip edge flashings, paper and corrugated iron all done. Pretty stoked with that.

Kemp Road (waiuku) Hillclimb run by the MG car club Line up of Escorts Mine - Pinto powered (red one) Bills - Pinto Powered (green one) Dav's - Crossflow Powered (blue one) Marty's - Crossflow powered and on the last run this happened The exhaust got pushed into one of the 4 link bars and put it a bit out of shape Guards cracked from the impact rear panels got a few bumps now and so does the rear quarter luckily the rear tow hook took most of the impact and sheared off

didint keltik have the same problem with his wagon?

It's not magic So basically its gotta be going out zorst or leaking out of block. Put ur face behind exhaust and see what it smells like at 6,000rpm

Someone get Kempy in here

Put the front back together this evening and fitted my latest wheel acquisition, 13x7 Watanabe Falcon Turbo. See Steeb, I got "turbo's." The wheels are brand spankers - never been fitted to a car and date stamped with August 1980. IMG_7085 by Richard Opie, on Flickr

The re registering a vehicle thread, 4 threads below this, is probably the place to look, it is all covered in there.

There's pics on the nzta / lvv sites outlining it all

That. Also dont do it.

Pine Engineering for all your pining needs.

few bits I've picked up.

courtesy of Mutiny - some pics from Mazfarm days

66 rebuilt speedo, recalibrate to 200 mph. I'm stoked with this thing !