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it works

I've had a mix of problems for a while, where the engine runs good under full load, but is a total dog at cruising or idle. I've been chasing around just about everything trying to figure this out. Well, it turns out that I've had the wrong knock sensor, which has been causing the chaos! When knock happens, it makes a certain frequency vibration in the engine block. The frequency differs depending on the bore and stroke, similar to how a trumpet makes a different sound to a big tuba or something. So the problem that I had, was that I had a knock sensor from a smaller engine. It was listening out for knock on a different frequency, and not hearing it when it happened. The ECU thought everything was dandy, so was smashing in shitloads of ignition advance because it thought I was running some wizard magic fuel that appreciates 50 degrees advance in all scenarios hahaha. Today though, I managed to find a knock sensor from a gen 3 3SGE at Zebra. Got home and swapped this over, reset the ECU and disabled all changes from the fuel computer. Took it for a run, and... sweet jesus! Idle problems and low load problems instantly solved. Idle has gone back down to 10 or so degrees advance, and the idle is stable at 950-1000rpm when previously it was running 12-1300. At low load cruising it's now doing 30-35ish degrees advance instead of high 40s. I took the car for a bit of a run out to the airport and back, the average for the trip was 8.5litres per 100km. Which is a lot better than the 11/12l per 100 that it was getting before. It can now sit in 6th gear trundling along at 1600rpm or so at 50-60kph with no worries. Previously I'd have to go to 4th or 5th. Pretty happy with the economy! It's a lot quieter in the cabin when the motor is running properly too, so pretty happy all round. An unexpectedly successful fix! Taupo trackday is next weekend, and I caaaannnnnn not wait

that large black and white cow/animal thing in the background would be a better investment

Heres some answers to commonly asked cert questions. What size tyre can I run on my rims? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf What are the rules with driveshaft loops? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf What are the rules regarding camber? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf How do i weld up my adjustable struts? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/ What are the rules regarding fuel systems? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf What are the rules for air bag suspensions? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf Where can I find the rules for WOF inspections? http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof What can I modify on a car without needing a cert? http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf What are the rules regarding wheel spacers? //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46520-wheel-adaptors-and-spacers/

Please fit ladder rack, mudflaps and canopy. Also maybe some 14x7 turbos with balloons

Next Friday 3rd of October I propose a richarsons oldschool extravaganza RICHARDSONS RICHARDSONS RICHARDSONS THERE WILL BE BEERS, pokies, pool, horse/dog racing, what's the time me wolf, maybe even ruggers on the big screen FRIDAY FRIDAY FRIDAY SO BE THERE I DUNNO LIKE 6 or 7 ish

Good friend of mine drew/vk327 took my old fucked shackles home last weekend and just sent me these pics to show the finished items. Pretty cool because new ones are $150

hmmmm... Do I need this? Some fella has dibs but if he doesn't collect it's mine... cheap. I have a problem lols, must be worth some money or something/stash it for later

If we go to the wheatsheaf, I might bring something special. ?.......

Since na 2L's are the most gutless engines ever created. Dialed in a full turn on the diesel pump. now its slow and smokey. At least now i can disappear in a a cloud of smokey awesomeness, when it gets stuck

29th is my birthday, what better way to celebrate than breaking my car?

Only in first gear, as that's the only time you're out of the powerband. But there's generally an abundance of torque in first regardless. After that you're at the mercy of your gearbox ratios and how many rpms it drops between gear changes. If the problem is that at 5500rpm you've got no power, and it dips to that rpm, it's the gearbox ratios that will fix the problem not the final drive. If you shift at redline each time, it's still going to drop by the same amount of revs per gear change regardless of final drive ratio. A 4.66 helps you get out of the slump in first gear, but that's it. It moves the peaks, but it moves the troughs too. I'll put together a technical illustration later with MSpaint to explain further

We used to have a few white vans back in the day and thats exactly the reason im not going white, everything shows up. Was thinking sign writing like this Look forward to seeing yours

romans fancy maths clearly shows the answer is powerglide

He has to fit brake lights first.

It ain't no 4age bro. Puhuhuhuhu. GOOD WORK ON THIS DAFE, YOU BLOODY RIPPA YOU.

^ so in other words, you are going on a date...?

Got it back last night just in time to drive to the monthly meet. Had to do a mad dash to ripco for a new dizzy cap and roto and the points where wrong as well. I thought it ran like clock work on these parts Many thanks to Azzurro for the great photo Hopefully if it doesn't rain to much over the weekend so I can get the lowering done over the weekend

This is when Jamie comes in and tells me off for not buying the 4A injection gear he found at PAP, lewlz.

I would quite like a Manx style buggy, I think I know where one is that a guy is "going to fix up one day". Quite jealous of your purchase

Haha yep. It makes driving a toyota echo considerably more entertaining on long trips. Im all like "4.5l PER HUUNIT, CHEAH BOY!" *gang signs*

Thankfully the water marks in the passenger side foot well WERE from the heater core leaking. Since I have a compact heater/blower assembly I made for the Gemini I decided to biff it all and start again rather than cleaning up and replacing the core. Good choice because the plastic blower housing in the firewall was glued down and came off in about 10 pieces. I made the patch out of part of a Gemini bonnet that a mate swaged for me months back. Its getting a bit late to make noise so I'll grind the paint off the firewall and weld this over the holes tomorrow. Loving this project!

Tidied up my gear stick as it looks like at some point the rod has been been bent a bit and the threaded part welded back on. Also re-chromed it because I could(although not for long) Saw Brock this afternoon and got a new clutch slave, spigot bush and front and rear gearbox seals. Will have to got to Saeco for the speedo drive o-ring and seal. One slight issue I've encountered though is the new slave doesn't come with a pin to engage the clutch fork, I thought that the one from the R30 I wrecked would have one but nope not even a boot so anyone got an old slave cylinder lying around I can pinch the pin off??

No way mate, you wanna feel the wind/sand through your crotch like a true buggy enthusiast would.

The old ultra light weight no brake lights trick.

Yet. If KPR leaves this thing unattended somewhere it might have an accident with my angle grinder...

Sounds.... tasty.... /spam

I know its not until March but Brad you better bring that hunk of junk to the OS nats Hampton track day! Book the day off now PLZ

Dash harness was swapped as well as the fuel sender. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=upOOlq1WuiI

jees even i've been there. thanks dave

Do you still have the gemini as well?

Nice!

dope

It was a bit of a fuck up, but turned out mint in the end. I adjusted the back lash and ran the tig over the cracked welds. Then I checked the axles would fit, put it in the housing and filled it with oil. I didn't however check that the pinion flange was the same hahaha, so when I went to bolt up the drive shaft It didn't fit, after much deliberation I swapped the pinion flange with the 3.54 and counted the turns to take up the bearing preload, it was a bit whiney as can be heard in the videos, but you can't notice it in the car. The ratio is great for the track though, so thanks!

Got the tensioners in and sorted without having to take off head. Yay. Also managed to undo all the adjustment bolts without them breaking, which is pretty common. Another yay! Just gotta torque down the head and we're good to go!

SET YOUR FACES TO EWW: I have a full set of spare doors, the same pinky red as the guards, and plan to get a new bonnet and tail gate. This thing makes all the PISSSST and WAAARRRPPPP sounds. Tucked away nicely, can't really be seen from the outside. SCREAMER PIPE CHER. Much to do, can't wait to get it road legal. Regards, VG.

Yo, castle point sounds bloody good when's this all going on?? I didn't take much look at this but am keen and old enough Then again pongaroa sounds good We can go hunt for some hillbillys to have beers with

HEY JOHNNY BEE, HILUX AND CRUISER FRONT DIFFS ESPLODE WHEN THE COLLAPSING PINION SPACER COLLAPSES TOO MUCH AND LETS THE TEEFS MAKE ROUGH LOVE TO EACH OTHER.

So yeah, I have actually got off my ass and did something for a change. Am pretty sick of my projects not doing anything and me just watching tv shows in the evenings. So bam: Ready to go: Head with valves back in: This was a terrible job without ring compressors: Done: Mmm, no carbon buildup: Popped the head back on: I need a tourque wrench to torque the head down. Will get that this weekend. Put the cam in and timed it up. Super simple. I did make an amature mistake though, i thought the cam chain tensioners could be put in after the head was on. Aparently not... Will have to come out again, no worries though. Shouldnt take long. FULL STEAM AHEAD!!

Progress over the last two nights.Dizzy cleaned up and fitted.Rocker covers now fit just waiting on new oem seals this weekend along with waterpump,hopefully paint them this weekend depending on weather.Front TEQ logo all made just needs paint and polish.i was thinking about back lighting it with some white LEDs..thoughts? also cut up the 1jzgte oil cap to adapt to the more suited 4m cap which will get a fresh zinc plating.

I believe you have yourself a catdog...

Wheel size of 260mm dia means it travels 816mm per rotation 1225 rotations per km To go 30kph = 36764 wheel rotations per hour 612 wheel rotations per minute So if your engine can do a max of 3600rpm (3600 / 612) You would need a 5.88: pulley ratio between the motor and the wheel. Assuming you had the torque available in the lower rpm range to get you there.

old and slightly wrinkly? It'll happen.. just wait Oldmatedan- yeah Kevin loves travelling. The first trip out in the van he meowed a bit but soon settled. Now he just jumps into the van and goes straight onto the dash. As we drive through Nelson he gets up on the engine cover between the seats and sits his paws on the dash so he can look straight out front. He seems to love all the city action. He loves it when i park out the front of new world facing the windows so he can watch all the people. Once on the open road he goes to sleep between us on the engine cover. Then he wakes up when we hit the hills near the land and starts meowing within a couple of Ks from the block. gets all excited like. Cant get out quick enough and does a little lap round the cabin all excited and happy. Then expects food for his ordeals.

I need maximum 205 GTI attendance at drag day btw.

Woooooot! Car's all back together, and HOLY SHITBALLS! It drives so much differently with the LSD adjusted. Previously, you would make a suggestion along the lines of "Please, may we turn this corner" and the car would be all like "FUCK YOU BATMAN" then you're all like "NO FUCK YOU" and then it turns. where as now, the steering effort seems about half, and it turns in soo soo much better. It doesnt single wheel peel either, and the diff noise has completely vanished so great success all round! It's still got miserable traction, but I'm due a set of fresh tires. Traction brackets might be the only thing that will really help though. I've been looking at the options of either R888, Toyo Proxes T1R, Achilles 123 or Nitto NT01. It's just a toss up between whether I want faster laptimes but shittier to drive any other time, or nice to drive but overheating tires. I think for now I'll go with the T1Rs (which I've used previously and found to be awesome) and then keep an eye out for a spare set of wheels that fit before getting semis perhaps. Either way, pretty happy right now! Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece

Much happier with the clearance now

Dave beat me to it. I was going to mention the fact that his tank will hold no oil because the Kent will have dumped it all onto the ground. Would truly be a dry sump setup then....

Awesome Dane !! I too have changed my tune . Looking at Hardtailing ! Look forward to progress pics ! Your right about bikes . I've currently got 9 in the space of on small Datsun !

So as per above, I'd been looking at changing the diff ratio and changing diff type. After doing the maths on the diff ratio, in order to keep the tire sizes I want (195/50/15 and 205/50/15) and get 3000rpm at 100kph I would need to drop right down to a 3.7 ratio from 4.3. Changing to 4.1 would make bugger all difference for the effort, so 4.3 it is! Regarding the diff, after doing some homework I found that the Cusco units are VERY adjustable, and from factory they are on the highest settings for everything. At the moment it has too much preload (how much the clutches are pushed together / locking the diff when nothing is happening) Too much locking under accelleration (Annoying trying to put power down on corner exit, acts like a locked diff) Too much lock under braking/decel (Makes the car understeer on corner entry, and partly responsible for doing 720 spins into turn 1 at Taupo a few trackdays back!) Some people would suggest just adding more front camber to the car, but that just means each end of the car is fighting each other and so you're scrubbing away grip for nothing. I'll be adding a small amount of camber over it's Necessary-to-pass-cert 0 degrees setting to negative 1-1.5ish. After pulling the diff back out it looks to be the Type RS model, which is the less aggressive compared to the MZ version and thankfully it's a lot easier to adjust the preload. The preload is set by a bunch of springs holding two halves of the unit apart internally, that you can see here: The MZ type has cone washers instead, which are even more aggressive and not very adjustable from what I understand. phew! There are slots for having up to 10 springs in, mine had 6. So took two out, respaced them evenly and used the reccomended minimum of four. There are also notches in the sides, which determine whether the diff is set to one way or two way: I've changed this from two way back to one way. So when I'm not on the throttle, the car should drive like it doesnt have an LSD at all, apart from the preload force which should hopefully be a lot lower now. aannnnndd the final thing that I can adjust, is the order of the clutch plates. Basically half of the clutch plates hold on to the shaft which the axles slot into, and the other half grab on to the outside of the housing. So they either have 'tabs' on the outside or inside circumference of the plates. They are normally one then the other, however if you stack two of the same type of plates back to back, in the order prescribed in the manual you can reduce the effective friction down to 60% of what it was to start with. As explained by this excellent diagram: With everything restacked, it just needs the housing plonked back on, and the two halves are only held together with 4 phillips head countersunk screws. The reason being that they are just there to hold the halves together until the crownwheel is on, they dont need to be done up super tight... Then add the crown wheel and torque it all back up to factory settings, and back in the housing. From here it's no different to the process for installing any other type of diff. It looked pretty intimidating seeing the exploded diagram, but they've done well to have the minimal amount of parts and super easy to adjust or service. Here's a Gif of how it stacks together: This is all yet another tick in the box towrads the idea of going to an easier to work on car than previous... I shudder at the thought of having to make the same changes to a diff buried inside a transaxle! There are a few other things to do while the the diff is out. I found that the brake discs were pinching on the outside circumference of the axles - so they werent sitting completely flush against the axle face. This pretty much busted the near new wheel bearings on the axles, so will need to replace those again. Bummer! Easy and not too expensive problem to solve though, I'm relieved it wasnt a bent axle instead causing the problem. When towing the car on the trailer I've had to be careful about throwing strops over the diff as well, as the brake hard lines are in the way. So I'll be redoing these in a more strop friendly location, then painting the diff housing finally, then mash it all back together. This should take a competent and motivated person maybe 3-5 nights after work and a weekend to complete. So, ETA is December Thankfully most of this work I can do on the bench in the garage instead of scrounging around under the car, which isnt particularly appealing at this time of year. Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=21625#p614135

Sooooo trying to get a WOF has been a giant fuck around mainly due to exhaust noise. I ended up taking it to VTNZ as the guys there said that although it was loud, he wouldnt fail me on that as he thought it was acceptable. It was quiet there so ended up with three of the VTNZ guys, with varying competency, going over it with a fine toothed comb. They found the following issues: 1. Failed on wheel spacers on the front (Which is interesting, seeing how said spacers do not exist) 2. Failing to comply with 100mm ground clearance (Which is funny, because that's why I've got a fucking cert plate morans) 3. Rear brake imbalance (Fair enough) 4. Mismatched wheel nuts on the right rear side... Two open faced, two closed. Oh the humanity! Luckily there was some boss level VTNZ guy who talked some sense into them about the ride height, they had another look and didnt see spacers, then I rushed off home to replace the brake pads and change the wheel nuts. Rush back to VTNZ at 4.59pm pretty much just as they are pulling the roller door down for a recheck, super stoked that I'm about to get a wof. Then this happened: Haha damnit! Fixed it now, hopefully tomorrow it'll pass, unless the guy finds a dead beetle in my washer bottle tank or something equally dangerous. Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/page-6