cletus Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 Anyone have any idea what it would cost to get one/3/5 of these whittled up out of steel? Needs to be a good grade material , it's a band apply lever in a transmission I have a broken one as a pattern They are not that expensive but are hard to get in NZ It's probably 70mm long It's the bottom bit @ajg193 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 4.2 Lever-Billet | CRT (coperacingtrans.com) billet steel. 65usd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 have you rung ol mate chuck in vegas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 no, id ordered one from WAER and they sent it out, but the courier delivered it to the wrong adress, and they cant tell me where it ended up. they sent a pic of where they left it but it wasnt my house... got an email today and its going through the couriers insurance apparently Both me and Eric have been onto them, but no luck, and that was the last one he had in stock, it was delivered last tuesday to who knows where im not in a big rush, it was more just out of interest, if it wasnt super expensive i could get a spare or 2 made but i realise im probably being unrealistic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
440bbm Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 honestly give chuck a call. he has done heaps of mopar boxes, and may have something. Is the replacement WAER one alloy again tho? ( if it does turn up ?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 5 hours ago, cletus said: Anyone have any idea what it would cost to get one/3/5 of these whittled up out of steel? Needs to be a good grade material , it's a band apply lever in a transmission I have a broken one as a pattern They are not that expensive but are hard to get in NZ It's probably 70mm long It's the bottom bit @ajg193 ? I've got a guy down south if you're desperate. Comes down to knowing a bit more about how it functions and figuring out correct tolerances for whatever features but it looks simple enough Plenty of materials to chose from, even real fancy stuff can be cheap for stuff that size Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HighLUX Posted August 15 Share Posted August 15 If you have shitty cloudy plastic headlights get one of these kits https://mothers.co.nz/products/07251 So easy to get them looking brand new again, literally 15mins a side to get it looking new 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 dumb question, but I just realised that my starion has no flyweight or vacuum advance on the distributor. i cant think of another way it might change ignition timing... am I missing something? are there other factory cars that just have locked ignition as standard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Might have an ignition computer module? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoot Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 1 hour ago, gibbon said: dumb question, but I just realised that my starion has no flyweight or vacuum advance on the distributor. i cant think of another way it might change ignition timing... am I missing something? are there other factory cars that just have locked ignition as standard? Advance is controlled by computer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 I figured that might be the case, but the rotor is still only where it is, right? If the computer tells the coil to fire twenty degrees earlier, the rotor won't be lined up with the distributor cap pole? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Dumb question for the day. I have one of these coming https://tiltonracing.com/product/76-series-master-cylinders/ It's made of alloy, the holes for the flange are 8.6mm and because of the proximity of the flange to the rear port, I want to put a stud in the top flange hole. Ideally it's gonna be an 8mm stud, so I was thinking of tapping the hole to m10, and putting one of these in there. My problem being, part of my brain remembers that there is some sort of reaction between alloy and stainless and the stainless will fuck the alloy up, and I only seem to be able to find these in stainless. Am I correct? Is the stainless adapter going to cause me to have a bad day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Could you tap it for 10mm and run a stepped stud. Such as something a little like this. https://dubbed.co.nz/products/stud-stepped-stud-8mm-10mm-x-38mm The aluminum and stainless will kick off some galvanic corrosion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 12 minutes ago, mjrstar said: Could you tap it for 10mm and run a stepped stud. Such as something a little like this. https://dubbed.co.nz/products/stud-stepped-stud-8mm-10mm-x-38mm The aluminum and stainless will kick off some galvanic corrosion. That's the other idea I've been looking at, those studs wouldn't be long enough to pass through the firewall and the pedal box I don't think. The factory one sticks out 38mm from the flange. It may work and I'll measure tomorrow to see if it will. I couldn't find many other options of them that weren't stainless or in the UK though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Early jap nuter Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 22 minutes ago, GARDRB said: My problem being, part of my brain remembers that there is some sort of reaction between alloy and stainless and the stainless will fuck the alloy up, Yeah the Ali starts to froth white stuff out of it then fall apart. Anzor has a sealer that’s slows down the reaction but won’t stop it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARDRB Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 The other option is to bite the bullet and drill the firewall and pedal box to take a 10mm stud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 is it really that big a deal? look at your alloy inlet manifold, it'll have steel fittings out the wazoo. is stainless steel that much worse? I actually don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 1 hour ago, gibbon said: I figured that might be the case, but the rotor is still only where it is, right? If the computer tells the coil to fire twenty degrees earlier, the rotor won't be lined up with the distributor cap pole? remember the dizzy will be spinning at half speed of crank. so 20degrees advance is only 10 degrees at the rotor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 4 hours ago, GARDRB said: Dumb question for the day. I have one of these coming https://tiltonracing.com/product/76-series-master-cylinders/ It's made of alloy, the holes for the flange are 8.6mm and because of the proximity of the flange to the rear port, I want to put a stud in the top flange hole. Ideally it's gonna be an 8mm stud, so I was thinking of tapping the hole to m10, and putting one of these in there. My problem being, part of my brain remembers that there is some sort of reaction between alloy and stainless and the stainless will fuck the alloy up, and I only seem to be able to find these in stainless. Am I correct? Is the stainless adapter going to cause me to have a bad day? I cant see how these are different to a heli coil? As long as it's not in salt water or under water the corrosion issue will be fark all. Some alloy castings are helicoiled from day one. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty360 Posted August 24 Share Posted August 24 Or can you csink and use a csink head cap screw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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