mikuni

Sheepers' RA28 Celica

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On 09/03/2020 at 12:25, RUNAMUCK said:

I realise there must have been nowhere else to stick it,

But genius who said "let's put the starter in the Vee of the motor" must have been a special kind of sadist.

Great progress David.

Bravo!

Yea but this is a Toyota.  The starter doesn't fuck out. 

In all seriousness though,  starters in UZs are pretty robust, they aren't known for giving trouble and they're getting pretty old now. 

I rebuilt my one just because it had it out but it wasn't to bad

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I'd do the same. Brushes and bearings are heaps less hassle than being stranded somewhere.

Although at least being a manwell you could pusher tow start it.

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On 11/03/2020 at 19:10, sheepers said:

 

49646972862_88d3429ddd_b.jpg

Hey mate, this ^^ is exactly what I wanted to do for the CAI for my commodore under the airbox running a flexi hose from the front spoiler. You reckon there should be no hassles come WOF time? not a structural part of the car & all that? cheers

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So that means it will go through a WOF no worries? I imagined cert is all good, but i'd have thought fail a WOF because chop chop?

 

 

Glad to see things coming together again, new intake pipe looks sweet. Pretty handy having the tools and skills to weld everything, no matter the material / fabrication required.

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Do you know what caused the orginal ding in the last headgasket?

Air in the coolong system? 

Compression tested yet?

Running hot because its a new motor with tight clearences, everything oiling right? 

Bypass on the supercharger working correctly? Got an air temp sensor after the supercharger?

Issue is at idle yeah? If the sc isnt bypassed at idle that could be your issue

http://kennebell.net/tech/supercharger-tech/warning-how-bigger-non-stock-cams-can-lower-vacuum-prevent-the-bypass-valve-from-opening-destroy-your-supercharger/

 

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Stupid question time.....are those electric fans sucky or blowing . Also does one go all the time . Doesn't the early 1UZ use a hydraulic driven one that runs all the time . The problem must  be simple just not clear as mud

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Hey Mr Sheepers, what's your AFR sitting at? Can you try adding a bit more Dino juice to cool the combustion temperature? Perhaps chuck a pyro on too to see what your EGTs are. Need to determine whether the engine is running hot, or whether it's a cooling system issue.

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You absolutely certain you are measuring the bulk temperature of the water and not just the localised temperature? I.e. there will be parts around the combustion chamber that will give you readings 10 degrees higher than if you take the temperature from the upper radiator hose

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Afr wise,   14 - 14.5:1   will be hottest.     going either way will be cooler.    but running  the hottest afr shouldn't put  enough extra demand on cooling system , unless borderline already.

 

 

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Superchargers run hot. Quick google of mustang owners said so. 

Its a heat/air pump. 

What happens when you squash air?

it gets hot.

just send it...

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Can you take it for a big long blat to try and wear it in a bit? Like a few hundred ks

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1 hour ago, governorsam said:

Superchargers run hot. Quick google of mustang owners said so. 

Its a heat/air pump. 

What happens when you squash air?

it gets hot.

just send it...

If you have an Exhaust Gas Temperature probe it can be normal to see 800-900-1000 degrees on the way out of the combustion chamber.

I dont think heating idle air to even 100deg pre combustion is going to make any real difference to engine temp.

What could be interesting though is if the alloy manifold to the supercharger is acting as a heat sink. Thats saturating the heads with heat, so your ECT reading is possibly higher than what the engine ever sees down in the block first.

But he has said hes tried it with the pulley disconnected so I think its fairly safe to rule out anything to do with the charger itself.

I reckon +1 to try the standard manifold back on. At the least it will be a good isolation test which rules out a bunch of things.

Is it possible that the welding of the sensor holes on the water bridge left some goop as a blockage inside? 

If it were me the first thing id sanity check the ect sensor itself. Assuming hasnt been done.

If the ect sensor has been moved too this triggers my spidey senses.

Ive seen a mates trackday get cut short because his oil temps were going through the roof every time he floored it. Turns out his tuner hadnt calibrated the sensor so a small temp gain was a huge temp spike according to ecu.

Dave is there any chance of recording a log file and posting it up / email or similar? 

 

 

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10 hours ago, Evan said:

Put the OG manifold back on

Put the 5m back in and have the same issue

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I'm liking RomanDaves theory, have you tried an independent temp sensor and gauge shoved in the top rad hose? I seem to think you have confirmed the accuracy of your temp sensor but I'm not gonna read back that far.

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Some further learnings.

Did 150ks in it on the motorway.  It will sit at 88deg with air flow,  climbs as soon as i slow down from 100.

Inlet temp 22deg (ambient)

Inside manifold under supercharger 45deg

 

 

Something else to think about. 

It's irrelevant if my two temp gauges are wrong or right, the fact is that when the fan starts the temp keeps climbing. I cannot stop it from overheating without 100kph air flow.

Cams are in the correct way around. 

I dunno, I've given up on it. 

Fuck it. 

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Have you changed crank / WP / Alt pulley sizes? How many volts are the fans getting at idle when running? Does the temperature plateau at idle or are you not willing to find out? What temp are you pulling the plug at? I'd your volts at idle are too low your fan won't spin as fast. Also, what ratio antifreeze water are you running?

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