mikuni

Sheepers' RA28 Celica

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i hate coolant temp issues so i feel your pian mate.

the factory head gaskets should be fine...ive seen 500hp turbo 1uzs that havnt been pulled apart ( not long for this world...but 1 of them has made it almost 3 yeara so far)and the they stay cool with factory coolant setup and radiator. 

i would be so tempted to pull the heads off and check that there isn't  an issues with the gaskets....wrong side....wrong way around....stuffed..

 

apart from that ill keep reading replys

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There does appear to be a left and right though 2032901856_images(1).jpeg.65e65aa5b52ae5bd02ce742131d27972.jpeg

 

Edit: Also, did you say the heater is hooked up? Is it blowing hot air when the engine gets hot? 

Dodgy thermostat? I wouldn't think so if it's heating straight away. 

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it cant be a massive  airlock can it.?.

it does sound like a water flow restriction and it doesnt take much...1 small hoke covered  by gasket and coolant temps go crazy 

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Looks like it's at the top on the pump outlet. One would assume it's the right way around with the valve at the top?

Can/did you burp the inlet hose at the water manifold just under the front of the charger? 

What's the Senders taken out of that manifold? 

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The thermostat is in the return line like a few toyotas.

I jacked  the front of the car way up and burped it with a funnel fitting into the radiator filler neck. 

Ive done  this three  times. 

The sensors removed fron the front water bridge are cold start trigger (hasn't been used since I installed the link about 6 years ago) and the temp sender for the autometer gauge which is now in the rear water bridge. 

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Stupid question but are you sure your themostats good? As it should be deactivating the bypass when it's open pulling water from the radiator instead of circulating it.. I'm not sure if pulling the thermostat helps as the bypass is active.. 

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Pop the top rad hose off and fire it up, as soon as the thermostat opens it should projectile vomit the coolant out pretty quick. That'll tell you quickly if it's a flow issue or not

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Oh, and by the way, this whole thing is awesome. I think this is the car that @kyteler used to drive me out to cell-phone coverage for in Coromandel, because middy was stressed about a thing. The attention to detail is superb, right down to touches like the nice lighting on the gauges, (good colour, and even light coverage). Bloody magic in person!

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have you though about Meth?

 

 

....injection

 

or even water?  I know that's a backwards way of thinking to cool things when it shouldn't be acting this way in the first place

Seems weird (and frustrating) one bug is giving you so much mischief (following in the hope its something simple & not a sizeable setback)

no chance any custom water pipes or mods are hiding under the intake and sitting wrong?

chin up champ!

how have other boosted Yota's got on with anything like this?

(edit 50 mins later)

and I'm talking about this stage

what was involved with the pressure test : ie just air? or Fluid

I'm more ling than anyone else commenting here so really just here keen to learn / follow

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this engine has new pistons right? could it be the piston to bore clearances are too tight and there is too much friction going on?

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It turns nicely by hand.

If its eating itself that would have been evident in the oil filter but that showed  nothing untoward 

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Also I really appreciate your input team.

Im sorry if im coming across as a bit curt or short but I am incredibly fucked off and really angry at not being able to fix this.

The radiator guy hasn't has a slot to look at my radiator until now so I'll take that up to him now and hope like fuck that's been the problem. 

Fuck, I really hope it is because I'm running out of things to try.....

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I reckon since almost none of the hardware ( engine size, radiator size, fans etc...) has changed you are on the right track with bleeding..

I fought similar temp issues on the 4g63 in the mx5 for weeks, it would rocket to North of 105 degrees very quickly, no amount of fan did anything to stop the skyrocketing temp, in fact it would climb to 112-115 once the engine was shut off... in the end it was an airlock, I made a bleeder arrangement at the back of the block using a brake bleed nipple. 

 

The bleed point is permanently installed, to bleed you crack it open and plumb some clear hose into the header tank, my temp issues have disappeared even with boost its rock solid. 

 

Also you haven't changed the pulley ratio of the water pump - leading to it running at a greatly reduced rpm? ( sorry if this has been asked - or are these cambelt drive?) 

I don't quite grasp from your photos exactly how the coolant gets from the back of the engine (is it that crossover thingee between the heads)to the front. 

 

Edit: had a quick look through your thread.. where did this welded up bit go to originally? 

Screenshot_20200219_123253.jpg

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