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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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16 hours ago, cletus said:

Are you sure they are 6mm? They look like 8mm from here 

M6 for sure

That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly.

If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy.

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Do you have to be able to flash your headlights to pass a wof?

My headlight stalk is a bit iffy, but everything (high beams, indicators and horn) other than flashing works on it.

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5 hours ago, NickJ said:

M6 for sure

That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly.

If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy.

Tophats are fitted to rotors with a cap screw and a lock-nut, usually a distorted thread type or similar due to the high temperatures involved. In 22 years of motor racing I've yet to see one come loose. If one ever did you'd notice through the steering wheel very quickly, I don't think you have a safety issue there.

The main thing I would be concentrating on would be that your tophat was hub-centric on the hub and the rim was hub-centric on either the tophat or the hub.

 

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Is this wof fail? if so, what would be acceptable repair methods?

This is the rust at the bottom of a door, in case it's not obvious...

20190908_212512.thumb.jpg.6a1a1d0b33fcc9246eadd61ceefd6bb3.jpg

 

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8 hours ago, tortron said:

Wire brush and some rust converter. Not close enough to the hinges to fail

so is anything like this confined to the bottom edge ok? this is the worst of 4 doors, they all have them but not as bad this one.

apparently a feature on early mk 3 mondoes....

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14 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Could possibly fail under the '50mm' rule, but you'll probably be OK if you clean it up first.

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact

 

 

yeah at least I'll have to colour match the rust area to the rest of the door before WOF... :grin:

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It was a hypothetical question lol. More around was there any rules that says that there must not be holes, like there are specific rules around the size of rust

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Hi, I've got a wilwood pedal box which has the clutch and brake pedals spaced reasonably close together. 

My factory pedals have dog legs in them (and are considerably less beefy) to get around the steering column. 

As-is, there's no way that this is going to fit and allow a decent amount of pedal travel. 

My question is - I understand that modifications to a brake pedal is obviously out of the question.

But seeing how a clutch pedal failure is comparatively non critical...
Could I space my pedal box over to the brake side, and then fit a modified pedal for the clutch that's got a bend in it? 

It's hilarious how massive these pedal stalks are compared to OEM ones which are just a bit of bent plate. 

A more structurally sound version of this:

50067815_dogleg.png.763848c3a9617ebe7e81bee6cf002689.png

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