KKtrips Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Is the buses GVM over 3500kg? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted August 31, 2019 Share Posted August 31, 2019 Don't think so, it's a Parkway like this: https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/caravans-motorhomes/motorhomes/6-69-metres/auction-2279187455.htm?rsqid=9e0573732b504729acc68e9072e9a654-001 Basically want to avoid doing anything that needs extra inspections and compliancing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted September 3, 2019 Share Posted September 3, 2019 That example there is 4900kg GVM, a bit weighty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Bronze Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Interesting. And no idea tbh, I'm just a chump helping a chump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MACKAZ Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Hypothetically, in 2050 when I get this thing to cert time, it'll be a case of book a date at a cert place in AUCKLAND, (bugger this jerk up here) trailer it down. I'm building it to the HCM with guidance from Dave at Henwood Automotive/The Hot Rod Shop Whangarei. Sound right gents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Sorting our brakes for a racecar that is intended to be certified and have been sent the front rotors to machine an adapter to suit the new hubs. Is this set up even legal, 6x M6 seems a little light? Are rotor adapters allowed/are there guidelines for material selection? There is no other mechanical connection other than the bolts, this seems like asking for trouble or is that normal? Please forgive the tie wire too, these were part of a stack of parts purchased but thankfully never raced. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 The "adaptor' is called a tophat, as a rule of thumb they are usually fitted with 6,8 or 10 bolts. As long as it's not a floating setup 6x 6mm is fine, the torque is not transmitted through the shear of the bolts it's transmitted through the friction from the two surfaces being clamped together. Nothing wrong with the tie wire's at all (everything on a race car tries to undo itself!). By the look of the radial surface cracks they've done some work and had some heat in them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Are you sure they are 6mm? They look like 8mm from here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickJ Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 16 hours ago, cletus said: Are you sure they are 6mm? They look like 8mm from here M6 for sure That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly. If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kws Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Do you have to be able to flash your headlights to pass a wof? My headlight stalk is a bit iffy, but everything (high beams, indicators and horn) other than flashing works on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 7, 2019 Share Posted September 7, 2019 Don’t need to flash for a wof 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sr2 Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 5 hours ago, NickJ said: M6 for sure That tie wire is a disgrace, is not that hard to do correctly. If any bolt came free and friction was reduced, there is nothing to hold it together, on track an expensive embarrassment, but for a road car i'd personally like a bit more more redundancy. Tophats are fitted to rotors with a cap screw and a lock-nut, usually a distorted thread type or similar due to the high temperatures involved. In 22 years of motor racing I've yet to see one come loose. If one ever did you'd notice through the steering wheel very quickly, I don't think you have a safety issue there. The main thing I would be concentrating on would be that your tophat was hub-centric on the hub and the rim was hub-centric on either the tophat or the hub. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ul9601 Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Is this wof fail? if so, what would be acceptable repair methods? This is the rust at the bottom of a door, in case it's not obvious... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Wire brush and some rust converter. Not close enough to the hinges to fail 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ul9601 Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 8 hours ago, tortron said: Wire brush and some rust converter. Not close enough to the hinges to fail so is anything like this confined to the bottom edge ok? this is the worst of 4 doors, they all have them but not as bad this one. apparently a feature on early mk 3 mondoes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Could possibly fail under the '50mm' rule, but you'll probably be OK if you clean it up first. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 The 50mm rule is only for places in the shaded area of figure 3-1-2 https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact#figure312 Doors must have no rust within 150mm of the hinges or catches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ul9601 Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 14 minutes ago, Nominal said: Could possibly fail under the '50mm' rule, but you'll probably be OK if you clean it up first. https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact yeah at least I'll have to colour match the rust area to the rest of the door before WOF... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Can't fail you for having a shit looking car. Trust me 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiRge Posted September 8, 2019 Share Posted September 8, 2019 Can you fail wof if you've just cut out the rust, so no more rust, it's just a nice cleanly cut hole 1 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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