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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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If you could prove that you have used the turbo spec drive shaft and it's a bolt in and not modified and the engine doesn't produce more than 50% more power than it did when it was in the s13 to start with  

I don't see how it couldn't meet the 'interchangeable drive shafts' part 

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On 09/05/2019 at 15:57, CorollaGT said:

A mate of mine is a fairly tall fella and keeps breaking/bending factory seat sliders due to always having the seat all the way back. Car is a FWD Trueno.

Would repositing the factory seat mounts be ok for cert? The front of the seat mounts on a brace from the sill to the tunnel thats spot welded. The outer rear mount is a small bracket thats spot welded to the sill and for the inner rear mount theres a captive nut on the tunnel (probably the easiet one of all to reposition using doubler plates etc)

Yep do able if it's all done correctly

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@cletus

Hey Mr Cletus, How bigger doubler plate do i need to add a middle seat belt to these existing mounts for the outside seats.there is currently a shitty white one bolted on underneath the outside ones. or is this not legal? and it would require its own doubler mount? they currently just have a big washer behind them which was normal back in the day I think. Its going to be for a spog seat as junior has become interested in car shows. 

I also need to add a tether bolt for the seat and there bugger all to fix the bolt to. 63 EH wagon. I was going to add a removable bar between the two seat belt bolts on the back of the wheel arches to mount the car seat tether off, thoughts around this?

A couple of pics to show what I mean hopefully.

Thanks for ya help!!!!

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20190512_192102_resized.jpg

20190512_192217_resized.jpg

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23 hours ago, cletus said:

If you could prove that you have used the turbo spec drive shaft and it's a bolt in and not modified and the engine doesn't produce more than 50% more power than it did when it was in the s13 to start with  

I don't see how it couldn't meet the 'interchangeable drive shafts' part 

So in my case, the engine is literally on the 50% increase mark (190hp to 286hp), but the drive shaft is from the M3 (and is labeled as such on the shaft). No added turbos etc, just more NA power. Still able to scrape by without one?

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This is just a chat question not i'm doing it tomorrow kinda deal. 

We have seen VW bug's with narrowed front ends. You can take a abritory inch or 2 or you can go full bat shit crazy 10-14" Narrow. As far as you can before the Shock mounts rub the body. 

Where do we with our rules draw the line? IS there a % of track front to back that you must stay within ? Or is it just a matter of judgement on the certifier ?

cheers Scott.

 

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On 12/05/2019 at 21:19, rusty360 said:

@cletus

Hey Mr Cletus, How bigger doubler plate do i need to add a middle seat belt to these existing mounts for the outside seats.there is currently a shitty white one bolted on underneath the outside ones. or is this not legal? and it would require its own doubler mount? they currently just have a big washer behind them which was normal back in the day I think. Its going to be for a spog seat as junior has become interested in car shows. 

I also need to add a tether bolt for the seat and there bugger all to fix the bolt to. 63 EH wagon. I was going to add a removable bar between the two seat belt bolts on the back of the wheel arches to mount the car seat tether off, thoughts around this?

A couple of pics to show what I mean hopefully.

Thanks for ya help!!!!

20190512_191914_resized.jpg

20190512_192102_resized.jpg

20190512_192217_resized.jpg

For your tether point, the section of the floor between the back of the seat and the lift out to get to the spare wheel, has a frame under it. Here is a photo of my EJ through the side window. It is good and solid, made up of 2 pieces so drilling and adding a crush tube and it will be fine. This is probably stronger than the parcel shelf in most sedans.

1537870849_EjSupportpanel.jpg.53a8e004044206d404804d419fdee690.jpg

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If a car has a 350 in it already certed,will it have to be rec-certed for a 383 and tunnelram? 

Also would the 383 be a direct bolt in on the original mounts? 

Thanks guys.

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2 hours ago, Casper said:

If a car has a 350 in it already certed,will it have to be rec-certed for a 383 and tunnelram? 

Also would the 383 be a direct bolt in on the original mounts? 

Thanks guys.

Definitely recert. 

A 383SBC is just a 350 with a different crank isn't it? So should bolt in. 

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Same block, longer stroke. No need for recert. You can’t tell the difference from the outside.

If adding a tunnel ram means you have metal poking out the bonnet that wasn’t there before you might need to see the cert man.

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I thought increasing displacement was a certable requirement regardless of being the same family of engine?

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So, legally and accurately it does require cert.  Like I said.  Just because you can get away with it doesn't make it legal. 

 

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Well it's that kind of misinformation that sees trademe and other sellers riddled with ignorance about what's required or not required for certification.  Oh my mate said it was fine and didn't require cert and he's a wof mechanic for Toyota...

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He is right though. First dude I took my car to for a wof went fine tooth comb on it, apart from the many many other issues, one was it needs a cert for the 1600cc as it deffiantly wasn't a 1200 and more.

Also @scooters heaps of people run 2-3inch beams without a cert, unless you know, most get away with it. The only really narrow car I've see in nz was a white bug on BRMs, pretty sure it was certed, anyway doesn't really answer your question but good to sharn.

I find with the 63, ground clearance is more of a issue, I've got a stock width beam and no drop spindles, and the beam is about 90mm off the deck. If i go over the speed bumps at work any faster than a crawl, the back of my front fenders get smashed, I would like to drop it one more inch.

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