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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs

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20 hours ago, 63Ragtop said:

He is right though. First dude I took my car to for a wof went fine tooth comb on it, apart from the many many other issues, one was it needs a cert for the 1600cc as it deffiantly wasn't a 1200 and more.

Also @scooters heaps of people run 2-3inch beams without a cert, unless you know, most get away with it. The only really narrow car I've see in nz was a white bug on BRMs, pretty sure it was certed, anyway doesn't really answer your question but good to sharn.

I find with the 63, ground clearance is more of a issue, I've got a stock width beam and no drop spindles, and the beam is about 90mm off the deck. If i go over the speed bumps at work any faster than a crawl, the back of my front fenders get smashed, I would like to drop it one more inch.

haha I'm sure you know about the Jeen's bug that was built and sold by Marco a while back ? 

http://fueltank.cc/blog/1974-jeans-beetle

Thing is dope. Love the cosmic rims. Thats what id build if I find another late model standard

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Crazy dutchies.Ah, air ride. That's a whole nother cert issue, has anyone ever built a air ride bug in NZ and got it legal? The shock mounts on vw's aren't really designed to carry the whole weight of the car? Which is what happens if you remove the torsion bars like people seem to do overseas.

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1 hour ago, 63Ragtop said:

Crazy dutchies.Ah, air ride. That's a whole nother cert issue, has anyone ever built a air ride bug in NZ and got it legal? The shock mounts on vw's aren't really designed to carry the whole weight of the car? Which is what happens if you remove the torsion bars like people seem to do overseas.

Actually..

That's exactly right. And something I never thought of. Shit

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On 11/05/2019 at 23:09, cletus said:

So If I read that right,
a valiant which began life as a 245, but was swapped with all the parts from a 318 car. And only has headers, a 4bbl, and "the cam is stock sir I swear it". (to be fair it doesnt have a ropey idle) wouldnt need a loop? (I could dyno it, then show a cert guy the sheet, vs the factory rating of "230hp")

All pie in the sky stuff becuase 

A), I probably wont bother certing it anyway. And

B ) I ll probably never finish it anyway. 

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On ‎12‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 21:19, rusty360 said:

@cletus

Hey Mr Cletus, How bigger doubler plate do i need to add a middle seat belt to these existing mounts for the outside seats.there is currently a shitty white one bolted on underneath the outside ones. or is this not legal? and it would require its own doubler mount? they currently just have a big washer behind them which was normal back in the day I think. Its going to be for a spog seat as junior has become interested in car shows. 

I also need to add a tether bolt for the seat and there bugger all to fix the bolt to. 63 EH wagon. I was going to add a removable bar between the two seat belt bolts on the back of the wheel arches to mount the car seat tether off, thoughts around this?

A couple of pics to show what I mean hopefully.

Thanks for ya help!!!!

20190512_191914_resized.jpg

20190512_192102_resized.jpg

20190512_192217_resized.jpg

you will need to fit a separate set of anchorages for the center belt. 

it gets tricky with the other belt mounts because they were done so long ago, they probably pre date the cert requirement, but proving that will be near impossible if theres no declaration, so it will be better to re do all the anchorages as per the standard, and cert it

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Seatbelts_& Seatbelt_Anchorages.pdf

 

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On ‎12‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 22:34, kws said:

So in my case, the engine is literally on the 50% increase mark (190hp to 286hp), but the drive shaft is from the M3 (and is labeled as such on the shaft). No added turbos etc, just more NA power. Still able to scrape by without one?

if its a m3 engine and m3 box and matching m3 driveshaft and its not modified and you can prove it,  correct.

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On ‎13‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 19:50, scooters said:

This is just a chat question not i'm doing it tomorrow kinda deal. 

We have seen VW bug's with narrowed front ends. You can take a abritory inch or 2 or you can go full bat shit crazy 10-14" Narrow. As far as you can before the Shock mounts rub the body. 

Where do we with our rules draw the line? IS there a % of track front to back that you must stay within ? Or is it just a matter of judgement on the certifier ?

cheers Scott.

 

 

 

there is a track width requirement

 

Wheel track 
2.2(7) A low volume vehicle that has four wheels and tyres, must have a front wheel track, measured from centre to centre of the tyre treads, that is within 20% of the rear wheel track. 

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On ‎17‎/‎05‎/‎2019 at 15:26, Casper said:

If a car has a 350 in it already certed,will it have to be rec-certed for a 383 and tunnelram? 

Also would the 383 be a direct bolt in on the original mounts? 

Thanks guys.

legally, yes.  

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40 minutes ago, RUNAMUCK said:

So If I read that right,
a valiant which began life as a 245, but was swapped with all the parts from a 318 car. And only has headers, a 4bbl, and "the cam is stock sir I swear it". (to be fair it doesnt have a ropey idle) wouldnt need a loop? (I could dyno it, then show a cert guy the sheet, vs the factory rating of "230hp")

All pie in the sky stuff becuase 

A), I probably wont bother certing it anyway. And

B ) I ll probably never finish it anyway. 

probably easier and quicker to fit a loop, than fluff around proving you have fitted a 318 shaft that was out of a factory 318 car then pay someone for a dyno run

 

 

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I have 2 options to swap hubs for my front wheels.

Option one

Fit a sleeve over the spindle to adapt the inner bearing and dust seal.

 

Option 2 

The spindles are held in by a small lip, a big circlip, and a friction fit.

I can press the original one out and fit the one from the donor car. I would however need to get the upright machined out a very small amount as the donor spindle is a hair oversize.

The donor spindle is arguably a little stronger although it would be unusual to break either, I would need to fit an adaptor but only for the inner dust seal lip. Either way the wheel position/track stays the same

Either way I need new bearings.

 

Here's an idea of the setup

IMG_20190519_091412.jpg.c552afe3982e02094d861f7d6b4706e9.jpg

 

More of a tech question possibly? I'm not super keen on the bearing sitting on a sleeve, but locktite is probably fine.

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On 08/05/2019 at 21:58, kws said:

Im not 100% on whether i want to go with recaros or not yet, but will need to get the car certed anyway, which is kinda why i was thinking of relocating the belts but using standard seats as it would give me the option down the track to change if i wanted to (without getting the cert redone).

Any thoughts on this? I know its a weird question, but i'd be interested to know if its a doable thing.

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strangely, I have a question for this thread

 

if person 'a' puts rego on hold for the minimum of 3 months

then sells vehicle to person 'b' after 1 month

person 'b' then puts rego on the vehicle, rego then starts from the date of change of ownership, this is on the nzta website

 

does person 'a' get a bill for rego because it was on hold for less than the 3 month minimum?

 

the reason I ask, is I bought a bike with reg on hold, I put 3 months rego on it, but the date of expiry was 3 months from when the reg on hold ran out, not 3 months from the date I put it in my name. so I got nearly an extra month free.

 

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Hey Cletus

just wondering, if a car has had a section of the floor replaced and this needs a repair cert.

how would one find the repair cert paperwork?

ive done a car jam report and it doesn’t say anything, nor is there any other paperwork to go with the car

do these get logged on a system of any sort?

 

thanks

ash

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Hi Cletus,

- Can you tell me if it is possible to cert a half cage (or if its even part of a cert) with side intrusion bars? It would follow the design of being out of the way of the driver and passenger head.

- on that, what is the definition of 'head restraints' when it comes to a half cage?

 

The half cage would be welded in, unsure whether the side intrusion would be bolt in or weld in. I prefer weld in but it depends if its even possible.

The reason I ask is because I want to add safety and stiffness to a late 60's kei car design but I don't want to have to have an authority card and log book for a 2nd car (I am planning a full cage in another project).

 

Thanks again.

 

 

 

 

 

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On 19/05/2019 at 13:31, cletus said:

so I got nearly an extra month free

I put my bike rego on hold for 3 months over winter,  got the letter saying regos due (they come like a month early) put 3 months on hey presto you get 4months! So I imagine you were in that time frame otherwise it would of back dated to date of purchase?

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