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Had a play with the sunroof the other night, things been a bitch to open and close since the resto, put some of it down to not having a headliner to help pull the second bow forward, but it also a dickhole going the other way. Had a good look and tried the second set of hole in the end of the wheel holder thing. Much better! Why the fuck hans drilled the second set I do not know. The only other instructions I've been able to find say bend the outer runner to fit? Was never sure how. After some careful prodding with a screwdriver and little progress, I found the use of the round hole in the runner. The two small rollers inside need to be even so the bow moves smoothly, by putting a screwdriver in the hole in the opposite side you can easily and gently bend the steel to just the right tension. Clever hans. These are castor shims, and longer beam bolts. These improve the road manners of a lowered vw at highway speeds. I already had a set installed but on very low cars, another is needed. As the shims space the bottom beam away from the pan longer bolts are required. Managed to install them without dropping the beam out. Easily the best 40-50 bucks I've ever spent on the car, it will sit on 60-70mph, one hand on the wheel, relax. Before you needed to keep your wits about you as it was very twitchy and unsettled. Now, just need to sort the vibration at and after 70mph, the deafening noise and smell of hot engine fumes and we're sweet. An't she cute dough?

Ticked off a few more jobs in the last couple of days. My new RCAs, caliper brackets and rotor hats arrived from MRP late last week, so I spent a couple of evenings fitting everything. Old setup - the arms were basically level at full droop (not what you want). New setup - this is much better, but I could possibly go even bigger with the roll centre adjusters. These are 38mm. You can also see the old vs new calliper brackets in these photos. With the caliper installed: Popped it on the trailer and took for an alignment: Pumped the lower lower arms out by a decent amount. Ended up with about 3.5° camber, 6.75° castor and 3mm toe out in the front. Also squared up the diff while I was under there. The extra track width looks tough from this angle. Hopefully it works well too!

This update has been a very long time coming - just due to life and covid etc. Ages ago I got in contact with a friend of a friend who was willing to help me make an oil catch can and a combined sprayer reservoir and radiator overflow. All the parts cut up: Reservoir/overflow bent and mocked up: He warned me that he was newish to TIG welding, but I'm happy enough with how this came up: There are still a few bits to do on it to get the washer motor and overflow inlet attached, shouldn't be long now. The catch can bent up: And welded: Both items need to be blasted and scotched up, but I'm pretty happy with how things are going. Once these are sorted I can start thinking about starting the panel work in the engine bay!

Nice day for a hoon up a volcano.

Pic for fred

Also, there is one extremely important detail that needs to be discussed. Is there a South Island equivalent of China Palace that we can terrorize during a dinner session?

I'm looking at heading down with my ute and perhaps a trailer (if the bike numbers add up beyond 3 bikes) from Hamilton on the Thursday, then back on the Monday. I need to start planning as part of the fizz build up process. Any interest in throwing a bike at me, preferably not literally?

** Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ ** As 3-4 months of winter snow is coming up in just a few weeks I'm going to take it off the road and do a bit of a refresh. It needs a bit of a tidy up body wise as there is some faded/crazed paint on the passenger guard and door, and some little bits of surface rust here and there to tend to. I've salvaged the Racing Beat Road Race header and Power Pulse pre-silencer and main muffler from the parts car And picked up some Enkei EK98 15x7 -3 wheels which could do with a bit of a tidy up. The lips have been painted silver and I want to take them back to polished metal. Not keen on the black centres either, looking to go a metallic silver or bronzey/gunmetal. Also found the original owner's manual

Te Urewera Undertaking successfully completed with a couple of hiccups The wires into the ignition snapped off so it was twist 2 wires together for headlight and dash to work Numberplate bracket snapped off on the last day and went byebyes down a bank into a swamp And the most exciting incident was just at the start of the Motu road Bolt holding the sprocket to the back hub worked its way loose past the lock tab and jammed into the swing arm while doing 75kph thru a corner resulting in a big lock up thinking id seized it then the tyre spinning on the rim and destroying the tube, it was exciting to say the least. Bunged it on the trailer for the day then fixed it in Gizzy with some decent cap screws and locktite for piece of mind

Wonder what happened to the 911

While I was fabricating the roller, I visited a bunch of engineers in the region and found that no one had a lathe big enough to machine it. Bugger. After getting some quotes from further abroad that would have blown my entire budget by themselves (15-20k). I decided that I'd just build my own lathe.. I jumped onto Ebay and ordered the cheapest set of linear rails I could find, including the ball screw and bearing blocks. 3-4 weeks later I got set to mocking up the "lathe" using the compound slide from my Stanko mounted to some adapters. Spinning the roll by hand with the compound slide clamped to the linear rail, I took the first test cut. "Fuuck yeah, this'll work" I said.. It would have taken forever to machine the 3mm x 25mm weld bead off, but I remember once when @kpr mounted his angle grinder in the lathe to cut through some hardening on a set of axles from memory? (that image is burnt into my mind, probably thinking it might be a useful trick one day. cheers dude!) The grinder worked really well and made short work of it. Spinning the ball screw with a battery drill.

After I got back from America, I listed the FZR250 and sold it, got side tracked with the rest of the year / moving out / life /other shitty bikes and left the CB360 sitting sad in the corner. That brings us to the present, I ordered a few basic bits from 4into1 to try get this thing going / back on the road for summer 2021. And made a start on getting it going.

Theres a terrific shit yarn attached too. (Best told over a beer)

Continuing to remove the blue paint, am getting there. Thought I'd remove lights etc so I can make a proper job of it. Well not happy with the twist and tape wiring connections, the soldered on wires inside the lights and the homemade number plate light. All new stuff coming tomorrow. Also going to add clearance lamps onto the taillight mounts to aid with night reversing. Ive also got rid of the god awful pool noodle shit as the hull wore straight through it. I had mentioned this to a workmate and front up to work this morning to a couple of really good second hand rollers and an "axle" to chop up. Trademe purchase of a rubber snubbing block for the front gets rid of the pool noodle at the other end. NO PICS..... Typical

I dont really know what dining offers Blenheim/Nelson have tbh. I like eating food in places that sell beer in jugs tbh. Or just some beige food with some cheap beer from the supermarket works fine too.

Sweet Downloaded XDF File now i can see whats goin and turn stuff on and off. Compared the tune I downloaded from net against stock from the ECU I installed only minor changes so will zap it in tonight can always go back to stock if its balls.

It will be minutes and alot less money if you put a Lifan in it

Hey mate if you use stainless bolts make sure they are marine grade and try to put plastic washers so the less stainless hitting the Ali, the 2 metals react and it eats the Ali (even worse it it’s old Ali).

forgot to mention, a supercharged 1UZ pulling hard at 7200RPM sounds pretty ace.

tidying a few things up with the tune. i had no speed signal so the ECU didn't know if we were moving or not. with an E throttle that makes quite the difference. so i put a wheel speed sensor in the back so now it knows we are moving. the other major thing that needed sorting was the rev limit, it was set too low (6500) and it was pretty harsh. so now th rev limit is a more excellent 7500 with a really nice cut that just works. lots of little things were made better in regards to coasting to a stop, the fan coming on, part throttle curse, just more drivability. the other thing that we did was add a bit of timing up top which coupled with the higher rev limit it made 275 killer wasps at the tyres. keen for drag day TBH.

Went for a drive today, it’s going better than ever apart from the hot start problem witch may be related to the worn out ignition switch witch causes a misfire sometimes. Speedo is working well, 30 MPH works out to be about 58 KPH I can live with that, side mirror blew off but luckily it landed in the car, PCV is wonderful, oil stays clean and way less fumes, I am wondering about slotting the distributor for more advanced, I set it max advance all ready and I am running 91 with no pinging. On the hunt for some 600-15” tires, my front tires are old and hard like they are made from stone

I was looking for a box to fit my nixie clock in as leaving the circuitry bare was a bit dangerous. So I found a box. Plan is to fit it in where the radio frequency tuner was behind the glass. Then add a blue tooth amp board with modern speakers.

Grew some balls. Drove it up West Coast Road to home. Made it. Everything but a wof. Calling that a tick on the goals for the year.

Picture this, It’s March 2019, you’ve just got back into the country after spending 3 weeks riding motorcycles in Malaysia and Thailand. You’re watching the days tick by as in a week, you’re about to fly to America for a month for a Holiday with your partner. You’ve got a 1986 Yamaha FZR250 in the shed, It’s an inline four cylinder sports bike with 45 horsepower, and a exhaust note that sounds like a formula one car as it runs out to its 18000rpm redline. It’s great, you’ve been using it to commute on and done the odd weekend thrash run with it which is great, power delivery is fun, and it rides well, but being 6ft tall after a couple of hours in the saddle, your hips start getting uncomfortable. It’s now the Friday before you fly out, and something catches your eye on trade me...

Fast forward two days to the morning of the Sunday that you’re flying to America, and you find yourself driving across to the other side of town with a trailer attached to your car to look at a ‘unfinished cafe racer’ It had been sitting since 2013, Didn’t run, had had the usual remove all the lights and slap some clip ons on, then loose interest cafe racer attempt done to It, and was missing a bunch of parts but, it had rego on hold.

Only about 6 months shipping from Russia to nz

I stayed at a motel within walking distance of the springlands tavern for the Onamalutu valley fire back in 2013. They had pub nosh, and beer in jugs.

@Chunky_t will be living in renwick by then so we can just all roll up half tanked to his place

"HOT Tune" yeah nah car didn't like it tried to run but kept stalling. Got a check sum error after loading it so stuck original tune in fired straight up and ran fine. Will find something else a bit more mild perhaps.

Long time, no update, mainly because I haven't done fuck all lately. So I had an issue with and oversized drum on the front, got a hot tip that the hub from another bike was the same. Got one in from Thailand, went to lace it in, and noticed it was quite different/wouldn't work, so kept an eye out, and after a while got my mits on a mint front wheel, Another major advance was getting the seat covered (like 18 months ago, lols) by some chap that likes ice creams, from a place called midday upholstery or something, he spent ages getting the foam shaped, and did a lovely job, So it's basically done, apart from finishing/shortening the wiring, and putting a speedo on it. I have been thinking about selling it, as I really should get the RD going, so if anyone is interested, PM me. I've spent well over $1800 on it, open to offers. P. S. I'll get a pic of it together to show where it's at currently.

I'm thinking about selling this. Had a wof. Reasons it might not get the next. Headlights aren't working. Don't know why. Suspect switch. RH rear outer door handle is jammed. These things went bung since last wof. Can't remember when that was. I suspect last Summer.

Just press it on without the magnets and clicks in place

Just to follow up, I'd been massively overthinking the complexity of this job. (with head on the bench off motor) Step 1: place stuff under the valves to stop them moving/bending Step 2: place a 19mm socket with a magnetic thing on the inside, on top of the retainer Step 3: hit it with the hammer step 4: Valve retainer thing is off Too easy Now to try the rope trick and get a knot stuck in it Might try on a pick a part engine first haha.

Yeah buddy, I'm in and I believe a few other PPSCers are planning to attend too.

im in, peter t is in. any other north islanders? can someone please hold us to task on this.

Just a small update - not long after getting it I put it through the Ontario equivalent of a WOF, the "Safety Check" which it passed not needing much. With new plates (old owner takes their plates off) and ridiculously expensive mandatory insurance it was back on the road. It's first legal trip was to the supermarket, where someone in their oversized Datsun prompted used my bumper (and 2 day old fresh plate) as a parking spot. I now have a dashcam & tyre valve stem remover kept in my glovebox for these times. Bought many a box of service items from RockAuto And some Solex locks from 'straya maaaate because the original lock barrels can be opened with almost any key and it has keyless entry anyway. Also had my first break down, can you spot the problem? ** Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ **

Popped into work to use TIG. I've only used one once and that was for about 30 seconds when I was in high school. It's pretty ugly but should come up good enough with a grind. That was on how welder was set and with zero guidance from anyone. I'm quite proud of it, for basically a first timer

I would also like to register my interest for this ride, looks grouse! Better get my a into g and build my cb125/200 rig and ride that

These disposable welding gas bottles, are they any good? Do they last any sort of reasonable time? I have a couple of small patches of rust I need to weld, and have no gas/regulator at the moment and thinking of changing from flux cored to solid wire for this job just to have better/cleaner welds. https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/O0185 I know the bunnings side D bottles are good value, but $129 + $240 (plus regulator) is a bit much for me since I use the welder once every couple of blue moons.

Feels like it's taken forever but it's now a complete unit apart from master and slave cylinders

Yeah, I'll just clamp a bit of hose on the cooler ports Need to block the speedo drive hole (as I found out last night while lifting it)

Find a tube socket that fits over the ceramic but sits on the metal of the plug and give it a whack with a hammer. That'll squash the washer under the plug. Works for copper washers under banjo bolts

50cc only needs car license. /I did half of cape ride with no motorbike license on a dereg crashed gn125

Lining up another batch of these skins for people who want them.... have all of my steps pretty well sorted but thinking of getting a smaller radius setup on my pipe anvil

Chopped the crooked face plate onto the port and cut a new face plate Marked out the appropriate circle with a bit of cardboard with a hole in the appropriate place I don't have a jigsaw or router so barried my way through

Ten years since the last one...

Tank seems sealed. Replaced Tierods, inner and outer, but seems like the replacements I got were about 0.8 -1.2mm smaller and didn't fucking work, so wasted a day and all out of whack now from disassembly/reassembly and didn't get to the alignment place in time for the WOF before Xmas I had planned. Still, looks fucking dope. Any protips on getting it reasonably straight and driveable alignment wise I can do myself before getting it dialled in properly?