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A quick shape and test fit using the 2 screws that held the original baffle in place... Old baffle placed to indicate it was located between the rockers, plasticine was around 4mm thick here... And a very thin layer indicated there should be enough clearance, if a bit tight... So a clean up and it looks like this... Big plate area blocking oil splash, no folded edges and a large gap around the edge for low velocity air flow... And loctited the screws in and installed. Hopefully it'll be the end of this sort of thing... I put my finger on it through the hole while I rotated the engine to feel if there was any contact... And great success. Went on a 30km thrash at lunchtime, and where this would have been full previously, there is a smear of oil in the bottom of the can, which could largely be residue from the oil that was already in the separator mesh.. Quietly confident I have sorted it, will see how the plugs look after some more miles...

No problem @johnnyfive. i might have to learn to use illustrator for an attempt next year haha. anyway, here was my ms paint sketch of part of the road into Waikaremoana submission. I am fizzing.

Last minute missions for beach hop. Built the exhaust with no mufflers, Was so loud, had the bomb rap going on but bit too loud haha. So chucked a couple of mufflers in last night. Gave the old siren a bit of a birthday before it goes in the truck. Mount that and we are good to go for beach hop next week.

Got a small update from the panelbeater today. Fucking STOKED with the outcome Discuss here From To Looks amazing - in my untrained eyes anyway

Soooo, I kinda fucked my knee, as in big time fucked it. No, I wasn't riding a dirt bike, a harley, scooter, motorized mobility scooter, tall bike, drift trike, gokart...nope, not even a goped. I simply went to step up onto a deck and some shit broke inside my knee. Totally unspectacular, no cool "war stories" to tell... Now my biggest problem i was about to face is that I drink coffee like water. In fact some days I don't drink water other than what comes in my coffee or beer. So I was getting kind of desperate to solve this first world problem...but never fear, a solution was in hand, introducing the copyright pending "crup holder":

About a quarter of a teaspoon of oil in the separator can after a good hoon on the way home, so relieved, used to fill up in a very short time. Great feeling of accomplishment, tempered by the fact the whole reason I pulled the engine 3 yrs ago was cos it was oily. Could've fixed baffle and been using it... Then again, the compression was wonky and I've replaced all the front suspension, so not a wasted exercise. It should be good for a while now though. Time to look at tidying up the appearance and wiring etc after a tune...

and yip, then i painted it. now got the back of the boot lid and the boot seal area to finish and i can start priming the outside. 2020-11-17_08-09-25 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-11-17_08-09-18 by sheepers, on Flickr 2020-11-17_08-09-11 by sheepers, on Flickr

Runner system printed.

Finally into paint. First seal coat on and now it sits for 7 weeks curing

THats probably the equivalent of 700 dude loads in ya bum jim

One of my customers (also mates with our rep) has an old jet sprint boat with a moo motor in it, and I think his mummy lives across the road from you. ANYWAY, he mentioned to me he might hunt you down to be a jet boat buddy, as he's just got his, and is worried about reliability/wants a tow buddy, puhuhuh. So yeh, if a big hairy guy in bib overalls and a stockman hat approaches you, he's not hostile. Yet. Regards, VG/Pointless sharner.

Watching various motorcycle touring/adv content. They all complain about how tiring it is to pick up your bike, and that in turn makes you more likely to drop your bike again. Mate just ride a sub 100kg bike. unfortunately it wont be as 'light' as my touring bike which i could shoulder fully loaded across rivers and up staircases, but will be close lol

Oh fuck yes. I'm a wizard, Barry...

I too was drinking coffee more than I was drinking water. Went to the doctor with dizzy spells. Doctor said I had made myself dehydrated which caused quite low blood pressure. Changed to only 1 coffee and 2L(4 big glasses) of water over the day, fixed the blood pressure in about 10 days. Regarding crutches, when I had a broken leg, I found scooting around on an office chair with wheels was really handy if I needed to carry something like a plate.

Once exhaust was done I ran it for a wof and failed on shit it shouldn't have. I was pretty pissed off so took it to another testing station, similar results with a wof sheet of bullshit again. Third time I struck it lucky only needing to rebleed brakes and replace a headlight. Will be taking it back for a recheck asap! Before the wof i replaced the old makita springs with legit lowering springs and tidied up a few other jobs. Also the gold lancer is a new addition to the fleet. And stopped in at Bigfoot house for a pic Bring on some summer cruising

I then zapped the center cap in, followed by the end caps and shaft. - This took quite some fiddling to get it all as close to round as possible as well as getting the shaft as central as possible. With the roller sitting on it's bearings, I checked it all with a dial gauge near both ends and center, with the worst being almost 3mm out of round - which would give me 8.7mm or so minimum thickness after machining in a couple of small areas. Most of it was within 1.5mm, so I was happy enough with that.

Finally Cut the horrid mess of a rear guard. That's the Lexus inner guard you can see poking out. Also welded the modified panel from the spare wheel compartment back on. 200-300mm further forward than it was on the Lexus. 15inch wheel still fits no worries. Few more filler panels needed in here, for the last few holes. New panel rolled and swaged made up to go above the ems panel. Both sides all tacked in, and ready for final welding. The boot is going to need a lot of massaging, cutting, and additions, as she's a bit of a mess too.

I'm going to fight you like an upset teenage girl , crying and slapping you

So all legal and been using it a bit, seemed to be going all right considering the rough tune, but after I took her out to a car show at Mataura it damn near run out of oil, The catch can was chokka and the plugs were a sooty, oily mess... So depressing, immediately thought the worst, I'd somehow coozed the rings (perhaps with a cheeky skid as soon as I got it going). A quick compression check though and all cylinders were around 160psi, not particularly high but was a cold test and were all pretty close... Then started thinking about what could cause the problem. Valve stem seals kept coming up, particularly as it gave a puff of smoke on startup, but they were damn near new heads. Was gearing up to pull a valve with the heads on for a look when some extra research led me to look at the baffles in the rocker covers. I knew there were baffles there... This seems like it should protect the PCV valve well from oil splashes, but a theory is the small gaps at the edges create a high velocity draft that pulls oil into the baffle, and the folded ends means oil can pool there, getting sucked into the bottom of the carb. A cotton swab inside the hose at the carb end confirmed oil was getting through... It was an easy thing to test so started knocking up a bigger, flatter baffle after checking clearances with plasticine... And found a bit of suitable scrap...

I talked to Egmont industrial supply who I had bought my lathe off previously, because I remembered they had stock of large diameter pipe in various sizes. After telling them I was making a roller, they said they could also supply end plates and shaft to suit. Mint! Fast forward a few weeks and this lot showed up. 2.1m of 762mm x 12.7mm culvert pipe, end caps, center plate and 70mm shaft. The reason for the large roller is due to the RPM limit of the retarder as explained in my previous post. One benefit to this though, is better traction than small rollers due to the increased contact patch, which also reduces stress on the tyre. It turns out that culvert pipe is hugely out of round. But that's nothing that a couple of dodgy 20t bottle jacks and some wood can't fix though!

JB Weld is a miracle, when it hardened to a putty consistency I flattened it out, pushing it under the lip, and looked good (put it on dash of other car in the sun to speed up curing)... And cranked up good with no fuel spills, ran it 10 minutes to cycle coolant and cure header paint... And a quick hoon with no bonnet... No probs apart from some hoses needing tightening, plus the upper arm is pretty close to the tyres, hopefully an alignment will improve this... And bonnet on and time to wash off 3 years of storage dust and grime... to Mr Sparkle... And down the bottly for a celebratory ale... Another check and nothing amiss, still need to fit air cleaner and fan shroud, plus top up trans fluid... And deserved I reckon...

Anyone got a spare bed in gizzy? Also can’t remember who I booked in with at the lake, keen on a barby too

Failed a wof on ball joint and drag link being fucked. Going to be un os and pay to get it fixed as I'm busy/won't get it done before drag day

The desire to have real aggressive tyres with deep tread is unnecessary. Says the guy with non dot rated MX tyres.

The first year I took a bunch of OSM's, Bumper bars, and cookie times. Got home and stepped on the scales. I gained about 3.5kgs.

Ps I was planning to pick Bort up from the airport on it and nutstobutts the minden

Probably not brand new then, most likely a Japanese import.

I like that one more. Vespas fucking is boring. Vespas are boring. Fight me.

I've got a lot of ideas for this, some of them are even good ones. I'll start keeping an eye out for parts and see where this goes depending on what pops up.

Looking good there KK It's amazing what they can do with bog these days. J/K, looks sweet.

Goodrides I had in the past weren't even round, so there's that aspect too I'd say the #1 most important thing is the behaviour of the tyres in moist/wet conditions. Nothing worse than not being able to steer or stop safely when you really need to

Not a whole lot to report here. Just been doing a tonne of driving since the engine rebuild. Put over 3000 km on it in the last month and a half. Rebuild included going to far more mild cam, just adds about 500 rpm onto power curve Replaced exhaust manifold with some rush headers as well, no more leaks. Fuel economy is as good as or better than ever Got some new Falken ze912 tyres today, thanks to Chris @CUL8R at Mag and Turbo - should be good for a few more years Here's an adventure picture to compensate you for your time

Been driving this a fair bit, Supermarket runs, farm shop vege runs, pub runs. Its slow but fun to drive.

Did bit of a time laps video of the camtree casting. Not great but its a start.

I have nothing scientific to provide but I was at a 40th a couple weeks ago and got speaking to an older coach builder whose worked here, Aus and Eng. We got chatting about things and he mentioned your youtube channel, he was most impressed with your testing and set up. Thanks for giving us something to chat about.

Is it your wife?

Im still planning to bring a hunk of sheep to bbq on the weber on Saturday night

Did this I'm ok with it, for now anyways. Running out of motivation for making stuff, so went the git er dun approach, so I can go ride it and get some miles of smiles. Probably need 2 plate lights, but ehh it's good enough for the near zero night riding. Just on a slotted bracket. Now next time I feel like an hour or so of work I'll go through and do each little bracket as a little job, and every one wins

I too have done this at a school concert. Count me in for tomorrow's dinner.

I dropped off my bike in @Thphantum man cave last night. @RUNAMUCK can drink beers on it if he wants. plz don’t forget to bring it Mark otherwise I’ll have to ride j5s JetSki or something

That massive volume of seam sealer scared me but then it looks like it's that terrifying from factory in the before pics so they've replicated that well. The drain not being smooth seems like it could cause the issue to reoccur faster than it should though. I'm probably just being picky though.

So, I found this body shell online. And the dude is driving from Napier to Auckland this weekend and has agreed to meet me about 10km from my house with it in his van...total GC!!! Its almost to good to be true, I hope its not a situation I end up regretting, as I'm pushed into said van and wake up days later naked, chained to a pole in his basement? But hey, at least I won't have to worry about doing the shopping and paying the bills... *I'm not actually serious about the van, I've already declared my undying support for vans, van drivers and all things van related in an early post*

of course. might even bring a trash bag for if it rains

Ow wow, didn't think it'd been that long since the last update, apparently it has.. So this time last year, I took it to Damon @ Rocky Auto, got him to pretend he was taking it for a wof and to make me a list (before putting it through for cert) . He wired in the electric fan for me, suggested I correct torque tube angle and couple other small jobs. Took the opportunity to fit up the Front Gaz Adjustable Shocks to match the rears.. Seeing as the Rostyles were illegal about 2 months after I had had them made all those years ago, I've been on the lookout for some suitable rims for Certification. Back in lock down I found a set of 5x 13x7 ATS Classic's in Germany, with the help of ebay and Google Translate I purchased them. Ended up waiting 5 months before they arrived, having to pay a premium for shipping, but gotta pay the cost.. Had them garnet blasted, diamond cut the face & lips, and then powdercoated & masked up. To keep it legal I had to fit a set of 215/50r13 Nankangs One of the other things Damon picked up on was the filler neck didn't seal with the radiator cap (standard type) so ordered a nice billet unit from summit racing. Fitted it up this afternoon and took it for its once yearly drive around the block, first time with proper pressure in the cooling system Discuss: viewtopic.php?f=18&t=20250

Ooooh its been over two months since I updated this thread. I have not touched this engine since stashing all the bits under the bench out of harms way, throwing a blanket over the main block on the bench and spending most of my time since then buying up many Micras, working on the housetruck and building the mezzanine floor in the shed. Oh and some of that paid work thing too because we do have a mortgage to pay. However - I still have a little bit of progress up my sleeve to report before we get up to real time. So I can do an update and hopefully soon I'll be back into working on the engine. I'm very much looking forward to moving in upstairs because I can whittle away on the project even easier. Well at least I think it'll work out like that? There's still a load of sawdust to create yet before we can move in though. So where I left off last time was in making the start of the adaptor plate/engine side of the bellhousing. I needed a flywheel to work out its depth, due in part because I am intending on using a concentric slave cylinder, one that was left over from the Ford Mundano that we had robbed ages ago for its engine to fit into the Viva wagon. I had a Subaru Leone 1800 ring gear to suit the gearbox. I needed a clutch setup to suit and started hunting a variety of places. I found a brand new subaru Leone clutch disc going cheap on trade me so I snapped that up pronto. Now a suitable pressure plate. I was just going to buy a Subaru item but had realised that it wouldn't have worked - hence my question to you all in the last update - but no one on here came forward. Someone on retro rides forum won the prize though and guessed the issue. Whilst out on a run, my head clear and thinking of things it suddenly dawned on me that the pressure plate tension straps would now be in compression due to the Hondas anti-clockwise rotation (or clockwise when looking at the pressure plate). Luckily there's loads of clutch components available for early Hondas with their anti clockwise engines and I ended up sourcing a new pressure plate from a mid 80s Honda accord/prelude that would fit the bill and suited the new subaru leone clutch disc I'd already bought. The pressure plate was cheap from Rockauto - turning up only 5 days after ordering. They always amaze me! Clutch sorted and sitting on the bench. I could now measure up and start on a flywheel. I had Dylan @ThePog draw up a cad file of what I wanted- the right diameter and pilot holes for the adaptor bolts. He suggested that I get them to leaser cut pilot holes for the pressure plate bolts while at it and this saved some time. Got my plate cut and picked it up from Dylan's - giving me another chance to marvel at his Dynafari. I first set it up and bored it out a 1/4 way through to fit perfectly onto my flywheel hub I had previously made (this hub also has the surface that the rear main seal run against)... I could then seat the flywheel onto the hub, clamp them down and drill right through into the hub. Drill out to tapping size, tap the hub holes, clearance the flywheel holes and finally countersink and spot face the flywheel holes to suit some fancy bolts I bought - these need to sit near flush with the flywheel surface to clear the clutch disc damper springs. Pics... Flywheel now bolted to its hub I set it up in the lathe for machining... Then gave it a skim. Checked it again, double checked it and then triple checked it. All good. I then machined the required step onto the face to suit the factory specs for the clutch. Next thing was to add the ring gear I add. Now this was a bit tricky because my lovely old Mitutoyo vernier calipers (one of the first tools I bought when starting my apprenticeship) were not big enough to measure that diameter. My old work place I did my time at had some lovely 600mm Mitutoyo calipers in a lovely wooden case. They were one of the treasured items of the tool room and I used to love using them. I had priced up some 600mm items from a variety of other brands but wayyyyy too expensive for me. I'll still keep looking because they'd be handy for many jobs. Might find some second hand. But that didn't help me when I wanted to do this flywheel now So I made an extension from some stainless I tigged together, replicating the end of my calipers. Taped in place securely and hey presto- I had a new updated tool. Never perfect like the real thing so I had to really triple check my measurements but managed to turn the flywheel down to give me just the right amount of interference fit I wanted from a shrink fit. Into the bench top oven the ring gear went, heated up and it dropped on to my machined step nicely. Cooled down and its not going anywhere. With that in place I rechecked it all and got the throw out on the flywheel down to about 3 or 4 thou. Super happy with that. My clutch kit now bolted on in place and I have something I can set my bellhousing depth to suit... I have added the required dowels and its all done. I'll get the flywheel, clutch and crank balanced together before assembly of the engine. So that will be the next update I think. Machining the spacers that will become part of the engine side of the bellhousing adaptor. Then I need to finish off making some chain tensioners to suit the oil pump drive chains. However I still have plenty of other jobs to do on the housetruck and the mezzanine. Those are a priority whereas this is just a fun little project. But I must mention that today whilst out on a bicycle ride we had about 50 various motorbikes pass us on part of a charity run. I spotted a bright metallic blue Goldwing 1500 go past and as it accelerated up the hill we were on it had that distinctive flat six exhaust note and just sounded superb! It certainly got me tingling and all I thought of was that sound coming from my Imp A good incentive!

double update tonight ^ Got the factory intake and exhaust manifold off and prepped it for the fenton style split manifold Got the manifolds on and all the parts from sticky flanges to make a twin 44mm to 38mm tail pipes exhaust to get some rapping going on . Also got the leaves in the front reset 2" to get it sitting a bit better. Bit of a before and after, looks much better i think! Finish exhaust, mount the siren and we are good to go to beach hop.