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Hi everyone. I had a few minutes of boredom today so I played with the Landy for a bit. Poor thing is already buried, that flat deck is such a useful surface... Anyway, I’ve had it running on the rancid stale gas albeit with difficulty, so I quickly rigged up a very safe temporary fuel feed. Started very easily but runs a bit lean, so you have to leave a bit of choke on. Alternator even alternates! Meanwhile I have the fuel line poked into a bucket, catching the filth being pumped from the tank. Vid for thread: https://youtu.be/_MEXZxtKxHI

Yep we've got a place at Riverton so plan is to try it out there. Two rivers converge at the mouth (Pourakino and Aparima) so want to chuff up the Pourakino for a look (the one on the left). Being tidal you get dolphins chasing mullet up past the bridge, and target is big silver sea-run trout full of whitebait... Plus if I go upstream I can merrily float back down to the pub when it conks out (in a film of rainbow coloured water)...

Rego day. I took it for my first ride this morning, no helmet, kicked it into gear and the clutch was stuck, sledged across Dads wet driveway with the front wheel locked and the back wheel spinning. It must have looked awesome haha.

Cheers Mark. I can put some homekill sausages towards the rolling feed also, although might be quicker/safer if I pick up some precooked ones too. As far as vehicles goes, everyone is an adult, and free to do what they do. I don't feel its my place to tell people how to help out, I will offer my opinion though. The aim would be to gain a bit of efficiency with the cars, so, maximum people and bikes capacity per car/trailer combo. Hence the appeal of 5 seater utes with small tandem/large single axle trailer (preferably open top cage). I don't remember how many seats Max's 3dr Landcruiser had (maybe just 2?), and Marks 1tonner with 2 seats, but last year there were bikes and people coming off and on trailers throughout the trip. At times though I think from memory ute+trailer and the big box trailer were pretty well packed with passengers and bikes. A few people doubling on bikes. I think ideally x2 double cab utes with x2 trailers would be more than enough capacity, without taking excess vehicles. Obviously we can't be too picky though, about people that are choosing to volunteer their time and resources. (Everyone is very grateful to those willing to trundle along, half way past nowhere, slow AF, in the wake of us). I'm pretty excited about this though. Neato. Will try and get some emails out before next week.

So I've had surgery on my back about 3 weeks ago and everything is going great. Lots of walking mainly. I have ticked a couple of little things off though. Injectors. So the stock height injector made the fuel rail clash with the supercharger mount plate. I got some "shorty" injectors that allowed me to drop the fuel rail by about 30mm. I had to mod the bottom O ring seat to take the stock Toyota crush style o ring and now is all working. Need to make clamps to hold the rail down and it's done. 2019-11-20_05-19-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-20_05-19-22 by sheepers, on Flickr also, WHY THE HORSE FUCKING CUNT CANT YOU LINK A FLICKR IMAGE ON A PHONE???????????????????

Quentin.

Parts arrived yesterday from the UK so I'll be able to assemble the mounting bracket properly. But time to look at my pleasure craft dinghy. Transom was obviously rotted out... And I couldn't figure out what was filling the gap between the two wooden sections, was bog... So unbolted/pried it apart, quite a few slaters living in it... and seemed to be stuck on with a gallon of silicon... But cleaned up looks ok. And all under the edge of the boat (the gunwale?) any cracks had been 'repaired' by screwing lumps of wood to it. All rotten AF now... So fair bit of fibreglass repair work to do but basically sound. I may look at using HDPE plastic as a replacement transom board to avoid painting/epoxy coating marine ply, will see how cost effective it is...

^ That's pretty sweet! My bike got a WOF, dude noted down a few things to keep an eye on, completely missed the head set bearings are toast and sound like they are full of rocks. Oh well, that's future VG's problem now.

Prepping a road legal 49cc Motard for the event. New tyres and Chain today. Now for everything else! Got new front and rear pads/shoes for my bike + new black and gold chain for extra nangs. Looking forward to getting amongst it! 4 Stroke for the win.

Same shit as the last few posts. skip to 1:30 if you just want to see some skids. Have heard many horror stories tuning itb turbo setups. But was pretty straight forward once had it setup in the right mode and got bugs ironed out. Fuel equation set as MAP, with main fuel map spanned in tps vs rpm. this takes into account the manifold pressure and adds fuel with boost. Also an afr target table set in map vs rpm, so it knows what percentage fuel to add at given manifold pressure. Still little bits and peices to finish and bugs to iron out. otherwise runs good

IMG_20191111_174007 by John Bell, on Flickr

I am practically a farmer so I need a truck. Made sure my Tetanus shots were up to date and got this. But I really don’t need another project. Wow, I suck at this. Mean tractor grips though, so WIN. Thread of discussion

Just went for its maiden voyage around the block and the rose tinted glasses have come off... holy shit. It will be an extraordinary achievement for man and machine if I can complete Te Urewera Undertaking on the ysr. It is comically unstable at all speeds. The brakes are surprisingly doughey for such a light bike. It swaps back and forth between unstoppable wheelie machine and bog monster. Unpredictably. And I found myself adopting the leg drag moto-x style even on the seal. And I saw a cop (haven’t installed my plate yet). Essentially, the absurdity has bolstered my confidence, and I can’t wait for this trip haha. I thought I was going to have quite a quick straight line bike compared to the scooters, but I’m beginning to think I may be the underdog, and the only way I’m gonna keep up is to ride the wheels off it. I will be a permanent roost. By the end of next weekend I’ll be a demon on this thing. But as a precaution, I’m gonna make some big ass crash bungs....

Quite territorial. 3 minutes worth!

Yes. It was very effective. Especially after the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. I think there might have been ~10 degree temp drops after the injector. But, the jets that came with the Aquamist system did not supply a consistent/repeatable amount of E85. So I replaced it with an inline fuel pump and additional injector and it was retuned. When the E85 injector was running, it reduced the 'normal' fuel at the primary injectors. It was reliable... for a few weeks/months until I took it to a track day and something failed with the E85 system. Since the ECU had no way to know there was no E85. the fuel mix went REALLY lean and shit melted. That's my story.

Chloe

49cc. All mopeds are 49cc. It goes 49kph. I swear ocifer.

Minor work stripping parts off to see the extent of the rust. The front and rear skuttle panels will be a challenge: The fender shows the prep issue with filler/paint lifting from fairly clean metal (and rust subsequently sneaking under). I would love to hear from folks who know panel&paint on what could have caused this:

Would be better with sound...

Awwww yeahhhh *not sideways in real life Soundcard is working with sound blaster compatibility. So cool, really need a serial mouse.

The thickness of that "paint" looks insufficient to be bog, it may be one of those 'spray bogs'. Most of the time the whole car would get done in it which unfortunately means stripping the whole car. This Alfa was done in it and i had to get rid of the lot.

This thread is relevant to my interests. A few years ago I installed DOS 6.2 and Win 3.1 or 3.11 on an mid 2000s Pentium laptop I had for shits and giggles. It must have been a rainy day or something. OMG all the speed and it booted up in about 7 seconds. Tried to install Netscape Navigator and see what the internet did but couldn't make the LAN connection work on old Windows.

Oh well. I'll see it another time. I did manage to get my Jag legal again today, after two weeks of handbrake repairs followed by a WOF failure because of tyre load ratings.... I need to make up the time that took, so I'll stay home.

This is what I did for this one that I built for my old cruiser, did all the metal work made it strong AF and then took it to a pro towbar place to mig it up and make the tongue. Got a load sticker that way too

20 min to replace, err, install the thermostat: Which one of you fecking OS bogans was in here before me! Those bolts were all not quite tight, and the two RHS head bolts had oil on their lower threads. Possibly implying some degree of head leak. Once the thermostat was in, tightened and the motor actually properly warmed up, it's running with noticeably more zing. Not up to original Japanese engine spec, and there's more to be had, but much better for commuting around the city.

I had an Amstrad as my first computer, it came with a book on programming in Basic which had the code for some games in it. I once spent a whole Saturday typing out 600 lines or so of code and was super disapppointed at how shit the game was when I ran it for the first time.

New tail lights fitted, no dramas, all working now. Decided I'd let my daughter paint one of my spare cam covers. Turned out pretty cool in the end. Quite pleased and looks a million times better than what was there. The pretty cool looking headers will get a tidy up and probably heat wrapped at some point.

Ready for paint. The panel journey has ended and the quality is just outstanding. Thanks Greg at R3 Fabrications.

I've owned this car for over 20 years now, after buying it off my Dad while it was off the road. We stripped it back to bare metal, rebuilt the 1800 engine, and put it back on the road. Then came an engine swap to a 2L supercharged engine from a Lancia Beta Volumex. It was great to drive, but I have my gripes. Then life moved on and I parked it, as it wasn't the best daily driver at the time. Unfortunately weather triggered rust, it went into a state of disrepair before I found some dry storage. More than a decade later I'm ready to restart the project, with a number of changes. This seems like a good place to document the build for others. Immediate plans are to strip the exterior of trim, windows etc, pull the engine, strip the interior of the dash, carpet, seats. Then prep the rust affected panels. There is a lot of paint lifting straight off bare metal, so something in the original prep must have gone wrong. Will be addressing that this time around. Discussion thread here.

Background I've been intrigued by the idea of electrifying an old bicycle for a while, possibly as a test run for doing an electric hub classic scooter. No real plans but interested in the concept so started squirreling bits away. I don't want a balls out speed machine, nor a boomer spec mild pedal assist, so went mid range 350W geared front hub motor, easy to install, small enough to be relatively unobtrusive (130mm diameter) but big enough to pull you along around 30km/h for an hr or so. Grabbed this one on Ali 11.11 sale and it's on the way (36V 350W - $177 delivered)... Originally wanted to do my Raleigh Twenty, but spent so much on the oddball rims and spokes I'd prefer to keep it as is... Also looked at doing my Czech folding Eska bike, but those wheels are even smaller and low top speed may be an issue... Then I saw this one online, and realised how wrong smaller ebikes can look (granted it has a bigger direct drive hub), but still super dorky... so now looking at my old Raleigh/BSA full size jobs, have a few hanging in the shed. I like the old Sturmey Archer rear hub so a combo of that and the lectric front wheel seems a good recipe? (Motor hub not much bigger than the dyno-hub they came with as an option). Have to see if motor will fit forks first before making a decision on base vehicle. Like this old BSA Sports though... Came from O'Shea cycles in Ch'ch... I have a couple of suitable SA rear hubs and new alloy rims set aside, and reckon with the patina this thing could look pretty cool with a sympathetic ehub... Power pack Batteries are bulky and expensive and you have to compromise size/weight/cost vs range, so I bought one of these after seeing them in the moped/motorbike electric conversion thread, the Vruzend battery pack - (10S, 3P kit for $44USD) as they look a good way to avoid the solder vs spot weld arguments/faffing about... And the 11.11 sale on Ali encouraged me to order some Polymide tape (kapton), 220mm PVC heatshrink tube, a 10S 36V 15A Li-ion BMS and a 5.5mm nut driver tool, so all up I'm into this around $270 so far... So still need a controller and charger, plus spokes to suit whatever rim I end up using, but have enough to carry on with. Also need batteries, the no-post ruling is a ballache, and at around $10ea in NZ I'm looking at $300+ which is a bit daunting. Might look at scavenging laptop cells or similar, but got some time to look into this... Anyways, long term project but parts ordered, by the time I actually build anything technology will have moved on and this'll be proper OS...

Yep sounds like a plan, will have room for bikes/gear too if needed

@MopedNZare you heading down to j5"s on thur or fri? shall we convoy again?

@Beaver @mark105 @Geophy @Archetype @Yowzer @Zeubin @macabre @bobby1930 @vk327 We're pushing this back a couple of weeks. We'll do a Raglan run on December 12th.

Try LTSpice to simulate, or put a current transformer around the output lead.

Thanks dmulally. Your's sounds like quite an interesting conversion. Good on you for persevering with the manual gearbox conversion. I fitted an auto box when I did the V8 conversion in my Bedford van and always wished that I had gone with a manual. My plan is to take the Toyota 5 speed complete with column shifter and linkages out of my donor van and graft them into the Thames. This assumes that the Toyota linkages will clear my engine and front suspension cross members as they are. If I have to modify them I will but that could result in adjustment issues. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I'm also going to move the entire HiAce rear axle across, so hopefully should get the same gearing as the donor van.

Hah, I really don't know if I should thank you or not?!? One of the AC50's (The Green one) is one I purchased off my neighbour in 1984, I remember seeing it as a wee kid thinking it was huge by how it towered over me, bought it off him a few years later and rode it to school regularly until I got a car Ran flawlessly until a mate blew the motor up while I was overseas in Europe Was an awesome bike and cant wait to get back on the road after not having a bike for 20yrs

Don't mind this, it's just a basic, primitive tune i spent the afternoon adjusting // constants won't change. Used here to set a pin number: const int coil1 = 3; const int coil2 = 5; const int coil3 = 7; const int coil4 = 9; const int sensorPin1 = A4; const int sensorPin2 = A1; const int sensorPin3 = A2; const int sensorPin4 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorThreshold = 200; int sensorMax = 0; // Variables will change: volatile int coilState = LOW; volatile int coilPin = LOW; volatile int sparkTriggerDelayActive = false; //added this to try & see if i can delay spark at low RPM. volatile int sparkTriggerDelay = 0; volatile unsigned long rpmCurrMicros= 0; volatile unsigned long rpmOldMicros = 0; volatile int sensor1TriggerCounter = 0; // counter for the number of button presses volatile int sensorTriggerState = false; // current state of the button volatile int lastsensorTriggerState = true; // previous state of the button/sensor in this case. // constants won't change: // Generally, you should use "unsigned long" for variables that hold time // The value will quickly become too large for an int to store const long dwell = 10; // but this is how long the "points" are open, open longer reduces duty cycle of coils. // constants won't change: const long coilCharge = 2; // interval at which to charge coil (milliseconds) void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(coil1, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil2, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil3, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil4, OUTPUT); pinMode(A4, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A1, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A3, INPUT_PULLUP); } void activateCoilsIfLow(uint8_t inPin, uint8_t outPin) { volatile unsigned long timestamp = 0; sensorTriggerState = true; if (analogRead(inPin) <= sensorThreshold) { if (lastsensorTriggerState = (false)) { delay(sparkTriggerDelay); lastsensorTriggerState = true; } else { coilState = HIGH; coilPin = HIGH; digitalWrite(outPin, HIGH); timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == HIGH && (timestamp + coilCharge) > millis()); //Busy wait digitalWrite(outPin, LOW); coilPin = LOW; timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == LOW && (timestamp + dwell) > millis()); coilState = LOW; coilPin = LOW; } } else if (analogRead(inPin) >= sensorThreshold) { sensorTriggerState = false; if (sensorTriggerState != lastsensorTriggerState) { rpmOldMicros = rpmCurrMicros; rpmCurrMicros = micros(); lastsensorTriggerState = false; rpmConsultRatioTable(); } } } void loop() { activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin1, coil1); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin3, coil3); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin2, coil4); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin4, coil2); } void rpmConsultRatioTable() { if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros >= 497512) //sub250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 255024) //125rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =57; //prev'55 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 169491) //177rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =39; //prev' 37 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 127512) //250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =27; //at 250 RPM and 45 degree sensor advance, this would be 30ms to TDC, subtract 2ms for coil charging and subtract more m.s. for advance } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 85008) //375rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =16; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 61000) //500rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =11; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 48000) //625rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =7; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 41000) //750rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =2; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 31500) //just under 1000rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } } Posting this here so i can find it later if i'm not home. Side note: i am probably the only person using milliseconds to determine when to fire the plug compared to using actual degrees.

That video card is massive! I got Heretic working but without sound, I only have ISA slots so need to find a sound blaster or compatible. It came with a sound card but I’m still looking for drivers and not sure if it will work with dos games. Also need to find a Serial Mouse... installed windows 3.11 lol

She was still running underwater.

Here's what we had.. That was a good game too.

This was my favourite game, check out the sweet soundtrack

Our 48V 1kW motors actually run a 2.2kW speed controller, again with a 40A fuse - not great for the longevity of the motors, but good for performance! We don't have pedal assist, so the bit of extra oomph to get you off the line is a winner.

My mate had an Atari 520ST. That was fairly neat, he had Shinobi.

My advise is to draw vertical lines around the seat in vivid so you can see when you've got good contact. And go easy with the coarse paste. It's quite easy to sink the valve quite deep into the seat. The deeper the valve sits, hurts flow.

just do them until there is a nice clean lap mark all the way round. but you may not get the whole face of the valve seat which is fine. another thing to do is put bearing blue on the valve face and let the valve drop on the seat and see how much is contacting. also valves and seats may need refacing on a machine depending on the wear. also check the valve guides aren't too worn too And make sure the head/valves gets a good clean after lapping them in too hope this helps

PPSC shakedown run went alright yesterday, i loaded up with gear just to make sure it stayed on the bike, great success. Ridge road - Apiti pub - pohangina loop from palmy. Bikes were neck and neck matched. Mine was rich, couldnt figure out why, pulled carb apart one more time and whilst doing so found a rag jammed in the piece of the casing that connects the carb housing to the airbox from when i paint stripped the engine. that explains it being flat as hell until 8000rpms Gr8 success

threw the seal kit into the carbs and no more leaks and no more lean spitting. (also put new O rings in the soft mount kit) went for a drive around the block and it cruised great but any time you tried to accelerate quickly it would hit the wall hard and sound like a rev limiter. not something you could drive through. clearly a major issue in the carb setup. Luckily i took photos off all the jets and tubes while i was rekitting them. Went inside for a coffee and looked up some suggested specs. found all the jets to be similar enough to the suggested specs that they were probably within tune, except for the venturi chokes, the were 30mm and suggested was around 35mm. Included with the car was a set of 34mm chokes, im not sure why the 30s were swapped in but i doubt it ever drove well. fitted the 34mms and it woke right up! still not perfect, but it runs pretty bloody strong! comes on cam (i heavily suspect its hiding something fun under the cam cover) pretty hard and sounds like the apocalypse at about 5000rpm. wof very soon and then ill have to try get some video. only new photo i have is of the grill i had a play around with painting. quite like it.