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Hi everyone. I had a few minutes of boredom today so I played with the Landy for a bit. Poor thing is already buried, that flat deck is such a useful surface... Anyway, I’ve had it running on the rancid stale gas albeit with difficulty, so I quickly rigged up a very safe temporary fuel feed. Started very easily but runs a bit lean, so you have to leave a bit of choke on. Alternator even alternates! Meanwhile I have the fuel line poked into a bucket, catching the filth being pumped from the tank. Vid for thread: https://youtu.be/_MEXZxtKxHI

Yep we've got a place at Riverton so plan is to try it out there. Two rivers converge at the mouth (Pourakino and Aparima) so want to chuff up the Pourakino for a look (the one on the left). Being tidal you get dolphins chasing mullet up past the bridge, and target is big silver sea-run trout full of whitebait... Plus if I go upstream I can merrily float back down to the pub when it conks out (in a film of rainbow coloured water)...

Rego day. I took it for my first ride this morning, no helmet, kicked it into gear and the clutch was stuck, sledged across Dads wet driveway with the front wheel locked and the back wheel spinning. It must have looked awesome haha.

Cheers Mark. I can put some homekill sausages towards the rolling feed also, although might be quicker/safer if I pick up some precooked ones too. As far as vehicles goes, everyone is an adult, and free to do what they do. I don't feel its my place to tell people how to help out, I will offer my opinion though. The aim would be to gain a bit of efficiency with the cars, so, maximum people and bikes capacity per car/trailer combo. Hence the appeal of 5 seater utes with small tandem/large single axle trailer (preferably open top cage). I don't remember how many seats Max's 3dr Landcruiser had (maybe just 2?), and Marks 1tonner with 2 seats, but last year there were bikes and people coming off and on trailers throughout the trip. At times though I think from memory ute+trailer and the big box trailer were pretty well packed with passengers and bikes. A few people doubling on bikes. I think ideally x2 double cab utes with x2 trailers would be more than enough capacity, without taking excess vehicles. Obviously we can't be too picky though, about people that are choosing to volunteer their time and resources. (Everyone is very grateful to those willing to trundle along, half way past nowhere, slow AF, in the wake of us). I'm pretty excited about this though. Neato. Will try and get some emails out before next week.

So I've had surgery on my back about 3 weeks ago and everything is going great. Lots of walking mainly. I have ticked a couple of little things off though. Injectors. So the stock height injector made the fuel rail clash with the supercharger mount plate. I got some "shorty" injectors that allowed me to drop the fuel rail by about 30mm. I had to mod the bottom O ring seat to take the stock Toyota crush style o ring and now is all working. Need to make clamps to hold the rail down and it's done. 2019-11-20_05-19-33 by sheepers, on Flickr 2019-11-20_05-19-22 by sheepers, on Flickr also, WHY THE HORSE FUCKING CUNT CANT YOU LINK A FLICKR IMAGE ON A PHONE???????????????????

Quentin.

Parts arrived yesterday from the UK so I'll be able to assemble the mounting bracket properly. But time to look at my pleasure craft dinghy. Transom was obviously rotted out... And I couldn't figure out what was filling the gap between the two wooden sections, was bog... So unbolted/pried it apart, quite a few slaters living in it... and seemed to be stuck on with a gallon of silicon... But cleaned up looks ok. And all under the edge of the boat (the gunwale?) any cracks had been 'repaired' by screwing lumps of wood to it. All rotten AF now... So fair bit of fibreglass repair work to do but basically sound. I may look at using HDPE plastic as a replacement transom board to avoid painting/epoxy coating marine ply, will see how cost effective it is...

^ That's pretty sweet! My bike got a WOF, dude noted down a few things to keep an eye on, completely missed the head set bearings are toast and sound like they are full of rocks. Oh well, that's future VG's problem now.

Prepping a road legal 49cc Motard for the event. New tyres and Chain today. Now for everything else! Got new front and rear pads/shoes for my bike + new black and gold chain for extra nangs. Looking forward to getting amongst it! 4 Stroke for the win.

Same shit as the last few posts. skip to 1:30 if you just want to see some skids. Have heard many horror stories tuning itb turbo setups. But was pretty straight forward once had it setup in the right mode and got bugs ironed out. Fuel equation set as MAP, with main fuel map spanned in tps vs rpm. this takes into account the manifold pressure and adds fuel with boost. Also an afr target table set in map vs rpm, so it knows what percentage fuel to add at given manifold pressure. Still little bits and peices to finish and bugs to iron out. otherwise runs good

IMG_20191111_174007 by John Bell, on Flickr

I am practically a farmer so I need a truck. Made sure my Tetanus shots were up to date and got this. But I really don’t need another project. Wow, I suck at this. Mean tractor grips though, so WIN. Thread of discussion

Just went for its maiden voyage around the block and the rose tinted glasses have come off... holy shit. It will be an extraordinary achievement for man and machine if I can complete Te Urewera Undertaking on the ysr. It is comically unstable at all speeds. The brakes are surprisingly doughey for such a light bike. It swaps back and forth between unstoppable wheelie machine and bog monster. Unpredictably. And I found myself adopting the leg drag moto-x style even on the seal. And I saw a cop (haven’t installed my plate yet). Essentially, the absurdity has bolstered my confidence, and I can’t wait for this trip haha. I thought I was going to have quite a quick straight line bike compared to the scooters, but I’m beginning to think I may be the underdog, and the only way I’m gonna keep up is to ride the wheels off it. I will be a permanent roost. By the end of next weekend I’ll be a demon on this thing. But as a precaution, I’m gonna make some big ass crash bungs....

Quite territorial. 3 minutes worth!

Yes. It was very effective. Especially after the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. I think there might have been ~10 degree temp drops after the injector. But, the jets that came with the Aquamist system did not supply a consistent/repeatable amount of E85. So I replaced it with an inline fuel pump and additional injector and it was retuned. When the E85 injector was running, it reduced the 'normal' fuel at the primary injectors. It was reliable... for a few weeks/months until I took it to a track day and something failed with the E85 system. Since the ECU had no way to know there was no E85. the fuel mix went REALLY lean and shit melted. That's my story.

Chloe

49cc. All mopeds are 49cc. It goes 49kph. I swear ocifer.

Minor work stripping parts off to see the extent of the rust. The front and rear skuttle panels will be a challenge: The fender shows the prep issue with filler/paint lifting from fairly clean metal (and rust subsequently sneaking under). I would love to hear from folks who know panel&paint on what could have caused this:

Would be better with sound...

Awwww yeahhhh *not sideways in real life Soundcard is working with sound blaster compatibility. So cool, really need a serial mouse.

The thickness of that "paint" looks insufficient to be bog, it may be one of those 'spray bogs'. Most of the time the whole car would get done in it which unfortunately means stripping the whole car. This Alfa was done in it and i had to get rid of the lot.

This thread is relevant to my interests. A few years ago I installed DOS 6.2 and Win 3.1 or 3.11 on an mid 2000s Pentium laptop I had for shits and giggles. It must have been a rainy day or something. OMG all the speed and it booted up in about 7 seconds. Tried to install Netscape Navigator and see what the internet did but couldn't make the LAN connection work on old Windows.

Oh well. I'll see it another time. I did manage to get my Jag legal again today, after two weeks of handbrake repairs followed by a WOF failure because of tyre load ratings.... I need to make up the time that took, so I'll stay home.

This is what I did for this one that I built for my old cruiser, did all the metal work made it strong AF and then took it to a pro towbar place to mig it up and make the tongue. Got a load sticker that way too

20 min to replace, err, install the thermostat: Which one of you fecking OS bogans was in here before me! Those bolts were all not quite tight, and the two RHS head bolts had oil on their lower threads. Possibly implying some degree of head leak. Once the thermostat was in, tightened and the motor actually properly warmed up, it's running with noticeably more zing. Not up to original Japanese engine spec, and there's more to be had, but much better for commuting around the city.

I had an Amstrad as my first computer, it came with a book on programming in Basic which had the code for some games in it. I once spent a whole Saturday typing out 600 lines or so of code and was super disapppointed at how shit the game was when I ran it for the first time.

New tail lights fitted, no dramas, all working now. Decided I'd let my daughter paint one of my spare cam covers. Turned out pretty cool in the end. Quite pleased and looks a million times better than what was there. The pretty cool looking headers will get a tidy up and probably heat wrapped at some point.

Ready for paint. The panel journey has ended and the quality is just outstanding. Thanks Greg at R3 Fabrications.

I've owned this car for over 20 years now, after buying it off my Dad while it was off the road. We stripped it back to bare metal, rebuilt the 1800 engine, and put it back on the road. Then came an engine swap to a 2L supercharged engine from a Lancia Beta Volumex. It was great to drive, but I have my gripes. Then life moved on and I parked it, as it wasn't the best daily driver at the time. Unfortunately weather triggered rust, it went into a state of disrepair before I found some dry storage. More than a decade later I'm ready to restart the project, with a number of changes. This seems like a good place to document the build for others. Immediate plans are to strip the exterior of trim, windows etc, pull the engine, strip the interior of the dash, carpet, seats. Then prep the rust affected panels. There is a lot of paint lifting straight off bare metal, so something in the original prep must have gone wrong. Will be addressing that this time around. Discussion thread here.

Heaps of knock offs around, be careful and buy from a reputable source.

Would have but i think i'd get lost again. Great idea though.

I have done this with an oscilloscope on a few occasions

I did a lot of research into it a while back. Came across some website of a salt.flat bike racing team. Their.kits were very expensive. But my other research revealed that the "coolingmist" brand stuff was the pic of the affordable stuff. There was a guy at datsun 1200.com running a datsun 1000 wagon with an A15 running 30 psi or boost. He ran two hobbs switches. The pump started up at 5psi boost, then a second switch opened the injection nozzle solenoid at 12psi. Theres quite an array of different irrigation type nozzles. (More misty, more surface area - more heat absorbed from the charge) but they require decent pressure to work. Pretty sure those cooling mist pumps run around the same pressure as an efi pump. But they're able to be dead headed, and they seals are able to cope with the rigours of methanol too.* *at least I think it was cooling mist ones that are the ones I'm thinking of

Looks almost the same as for 76 Colt but has auto choke

Radiator also in the dog box on my van so something else to contend with as I also want to fit a/c for daily driving. Gets pretty toasty here in Queensland and the sliding vent windows in the doors aren't the best for cabin airflow. Looks like there may be space to relocate the radiator up against the front grill if I was to find a long narrow radiator. Gent in the UK runs a Rover V8 with a standard Thames radiator, but daily temps are way different to what we experience. Pic of the engine box:

Thanks dmulally. Your's sounds like quite an interesting conversion. Good on you for persevering with the manual gearbox conversion. I fitted an auto box when I did the V8 conversion in my Bedford van and always wished that I had gone with a manual. My plan is to take the Toyota 5 speed complete with column shifter and linkages out of my donor van and graft them into the Thames. This assumes that the Toyota linkages will clear my engine and front suspension cross members as they are. If I have to modify them I will but that could result in adjustment issues. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I'm also going to move the entire HiAce rear axle across, so hopefully should get the same gearing as the donor van.

Don't mind this, it's just a basic, primitive tune i spent the afternoon adjusting // constants won't change. Used here to set a pin number: const int coil1 = 3; const int coil2 = 5; const int coil3 = 7; const int coil4 = 9; const int sensorPin1 = A4; const int sensorPin2 = A1; const int sensorPin3 = A2; const int sensorPin4 = A3; int sensorValue = 0; int sensorThreshold = 200; int sensorMax = 0; // Variables will change: volatile int coilState = LOW; volatile int coilPin = LOW; volatile int sparkTriggerDelayActive = false; //added this to try & see if i can delay spark at low RPM. volatile int sparkTriggerDelay = 0; volatile unsigned long rpmCurrMicros= 0; volatile unsigned long rpmOldMicros = 0; volatile int sensor1TriggerCounter = 0; // counter for the number of button presses volatile int sensorTriggerState = false; // current state of the button volatile int lastsensorTriggerState = true; // previous state of the button/sensor in this case. // constants won't change: // Generally, you should use "unsigned long" for variables that hold time // The value will quickly become too large for an int to store const long dwell = 10; // but this is how long the "points" are open, open longer reduces duty cycle of coils. // constants won't change: const long coilCharge = 2; // interval at which to charge coil (milliseconds) void setup() { // put your setup code here, to run once: Serial.begin(9600); pinMode(coil1, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil2, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil3, OUTPUT); pinMode(coil4, OUTPUT); pinMode(A4, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A1, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A2, INPUT_PULLUP); pinMode(A3, INPUT_PULLUP); } void activateCoilsIfLow(uint8_t inPin, uint8_t outPin) { volatile unsigned long timestamp = 0; sensorTriggerState = true; if (analogRead(inPin) <= sensorThreshold) { if (lastsensorTriggerState = (false)) { delay(sparkTriggerDelay); lastsensorTriggerState = true; } else { coilState = HIGH; coilPin = HIGH; digitalWrite(outPin, HIGH); timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == HIGH && (timestamp + coilCharge) > millis()); //Busy wait digitalWrite(outPin, LOW); coilPin = LOW; timestamp = millis(); while (coilState == HIGH && coilPin == LOW && (timestamp + dwell) > millis()); coilState = LOW; coilPin = LOW; } } else if (analogRead(inPin) >= sensorThreshold) { sensorTriggerState = false; if (sensorTriggerState != lastsensorTriggerState) { rpmOldMicros = rpmCurrMicros; rpmCurrMicros = micros(); lastsensorTriggerState = false; rpmConsultRatioTable(); } } } void loop() { activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin1, coil1); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin3, coil3); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin2, coil4); activateCoilsIfLow(sensorPin4, coil2); } void rpmConsultRatioTable() { if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros >= 497512) //sub250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 255024) //125rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =57; //prev'55 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 169491) //177rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =39; //prev' 37 } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 127512) //250rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =27; //at 250 RPM and 45 degree sensor advance, this would be 30ms to TDC, subtract 2ms for coil charging and subtract more m.s. for advance } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 85008) //375rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =16; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 61000) //500rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =11; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 48000) //625rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =7; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 41000) //750rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =2; } else if (rpmCurrMicros - rpmOldMicros <= 31500) //just under 1000rpm { sparkTriggerDelay =0; } } Posting this here so i can find it later if i'm not home. Side note: i am probably the only person using milliseconds to determine when to fire the plug compared to using actual degrees.

She was still running underwater.

Here's what we had.. That was a good game too.

So, still chugging away on this, finding all sorts under the paint. Nothing major, just annoying. All in all, very straight and rust free. I have been getting some spray gun tips from a friend, so far so good. A few patches of paint from one of the old resprays reacted weirdly, so had to re-strip back further in those areas. Front guards and both sides of the bonnet are primed and looking good. The rest of the car is all masked up, hoping to get it primed this week. Not very exciting really, but will be a big milestone for me to have it all covered and one colour again. Starting to feel like the end is in sight. Also I figured that while it's still a garage queen for a wee bit longer I might go ahead and get some of these. Will get the paint done, everything back together and warranted. Then, when that's done, fit these and sort out the new suspension.

Use to pay SpyHunter and simcity on this,

Dragged this home yesterday. IMG_20170513_102342 by John Bell, on Flickr Needs a little bit of a birthday, but really is in pretty good shape for its age. It came from some family friends who have had it since the beginning of time so has a bit of a history. I'm new to Land Rover details, but I think its an early Series 3, although the plate inside the cab says 2A. Its been fitted with a Nissan LD28, and has no sign of a cert, but has been issued Warrants in this configuration so I need to figure out if it ever had a declaration and if a copy still exists. The LD28 doesn't exactly fit very well though, and the diff head hits the oil pump, this apparently is a fairly common conversion so I'm curious as to how others have gotten around this. Apparently the original motor didn't have anything wrong with it, and is still available so if it is too difficult to get the LD28 to work (and legal) I may look into this. The tyres are a set of very perished 'oodYear' retreads which I find hilarious, my guess is that GoodYear didn't like you reusing their casings for retreads so they all have the 'G' rubbed off. The wooden deck is solid enough for now, but it might need a bit of attention, I'd love to be able to fit a wellside to it possibly. For now its home back indoors. I've got to sort out a few things before I get into it properly. I'm pretty excited to have a project that you can buy parts for. LD28 IMG_20170513_111906 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20170513_113127 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20170513_143948 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20170513_144002 by John Bell, on Flickr Tell me the secrets of Britannia here

So over 18 months and 100% of not much achieved. Was hoping to use this thing as wedding car, didn't leave myself enough time to do anything substantial. What to do? How about the bare minimum? Pulled the rims off, they'd been painted over the original cream, with the body colour turquoise, was looking kinda shitty. IMG_20191031_082525 by John Bell, on Flickr The old retreads were pretty nasty and mostly tore to bits coming off. Glad to see the back of them. Had the rims blasted and painted close enough to factory cream. On closer inspection 1 rim is a different style/offset. It is now the spare. Might keep an eye out for another correct one. IMG_20191109_115330 by John Bell, on Flickr Mounted the tyres, went tubeless, which may not be advised on tube style rims. Fuck tubes though right? IMG_20191109_160709 by John Bell, on Flickr Got some fasteners for the spare on the bonnet. IMG_20191110_182034 by John Bell, on Flickr Gave the insides a clean out, decades of farmer stuff, dozens of earplugs, gloves, matches, boot polish, all sorts. Found a 1985 pocket calendar behind one of the vents. IMG_20191110_180321 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191110_180330 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191110_180335 by John Bell, on Flickr There was also this shaft and repaired, and destroyed gear, unsure if Land Rover or just farm trash. IMG_20191110_155444 by John Bell, on Flickr Put some new cheap repro mirrors on, secured the battery. Scrubbed the insides and badly recovered one seat base. Got both vents freed up/attached and working nice. Flex out, might get a bit more with a good weight on the back. IMG_20191118_121605 by John Bell, on Flickr IMG_20191118_121418 by John Bell, on Flickr Still a bad fit with much travel, and as manky as ever. IMG_20191118_121511 by John Bell, on Flickr Went to a wedding received_2427387784166746 by John Bell, on Flickr Have gotten a bit of a kick out of using it, so will try and keep the ball rolling. Although its driveable, basically everything needs touching up to some extent, time to chip away as funds and time allows. Talky link https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/56349-johnnyfives-land-rover/

We use to run ours on the TV.

Always been a fan of Burt and his achievements, had to build a tribute to him, not the same model nor is she a streamliner. Drew up the plans on paper then cut bits of old bikes to get the parts for the frame. Live pretty isolated so only got an arch welder. Few twists with this one she has an electric pedal assist kit. Gave her the "barn find" paint job. Engine parts, bits of plywood, plumbing pipe, brake lines, an old torch and other junk. She can be a board tracker as well as a street machine.

Do a wheelie bro

Matt sent me some better pics of when he was doing the floor and stuff