kempy

Going back to this, It seems quite probable that I can tell the wheel to overspeed by setting the wheel size incorrectly. The larger controller I'm using has a 100KPH max speed setting, I'm also going to use a 72v Battery pack., so if I tell the controller that he wheel is 16" wheel instead of a 24" wheel it should have a max speed of approx. 150Kph, which the hub motor doesn't have the grunt to do. But with the 2 turbines pushing it , Who knows? . Incidentally, No I'm not going to try on those rims/wheels. I haven't actually looked at the settings for a 16"wheel so I might be spouting garbage, but some of the E-Bike guys think its the way to do it.

Meanwhile on Aliexpress, I'm back to buy another battery pack. As luck would have it the 7.2v 2P2S pack just didn't cut the mustard when trying to start the larger turbine, this is for a couple of reasons being that the pack has probably had it's day and its a larger turbine to spool up. Also, its Kero-start rather than Propane-start and it takes a lot more current to heat up the starter injector, add to this it has to start the other turbine as well. On the left is the new pack 4P2S 21700 cells, the purple old pack with the melty balancer on the right, and you can see the Kero start injector on top of the turbine.

Tank in trial position

Thanks to another GC OSér, the tank and mounts are in the process of being fabricated

So, back to a real time line. Pedals have been shortened, because then its still a bicycle

7 September 2025 The controller keeps the motor at 71K's, However it was suggested that I set the wheel diameter to a smaller size on the controller settings and it does spin a lot faster without any load. There was also a comment that I should be careful pushing it past what the controller is designed for as the mosfets could fry, so I'm looking at a 72v controller and just limiting the current, the good news is that I have a new 36v 25A pack here that I thought was going unused, instead of buying a 72V pack I'll just get another identical 36 pack and series them for 72v, and I found a 72v controller I forgot about, guess this project has been on hiatus for longer than I thought On a side, Does anyone need 20x 3.7v 30AH LiPO new pouches? new in their box...

And here we go again, another battery pack on order..

I think logically that may be the way to go, along with a higher voltage battery pack but current limited so things dont melt.

6 Sept 2025 While I'm waiting for a new battery pack arrive, there's some design limitations that I’m pondering, the first being the hub speed limitation set at it's max of 71KPH which is below what the turbines should be capable of, even the Cruiser would sit around 75KPH on a dead flat road. The new bike will have the Electric Hub for silent-ish running and off the mark speed and the 2 Jet engines for fun, hopefully in time for December Drags. There will be losses like fatter tyres, more weight etc.. but the Turbines will have 3-4x the power of the Cruiser, so unless something is drastically wrong it should be well capable of 100+ on the flat, and this is where the Ebike hub could become a problem as the controller will be seeing the hub over speeding and most direct drive hubs seem to limit top speed, I’m pretty sure the one I have does. At present I'm thinking of using a 3Phase 40a relay to disconnect the phases from the controller so it effectively freewheels, I'm not too sure if this is a bad idea as the motor effectively becomes a generator with open outputs with possibly a high value bleeder resistor over each phase to stop any possible HV arcing on the windings, Option B would be to trick the controller by perhaps some type of 2:1 divider on the Hall Effect Sensors to make the controller think it's doing 1/2 the speed it's actually doing, but this may have other consequences. haven't put any thought into it yet but perhaps someone like @Ned or @h4nd may know of a solution? I have already set the controller to think it has a larger diameter wheel so it will think it's going slower than what it's actually doing. Maybe there’s a controller that allows higher top speeds or freewheeling without a freewheeling hub?

Not sure if they are solid or not, but I'm thinking of shortening them

Today, tortron said.. are they solid arms? cut em short, i have a left and right tap here for pedals. plus it would be funny to have tiny little cranks

21st of some month I forgot to note and I think this post is out of order.. Situation at present (probably a few months ago) New Battery pack had been ordered, this is because late night numb-nuts purchased the wrong thing, again. Have I mentioned Aliexpress yet? Add to this about 20 times too many connectors and bits ordered from you know where. Replacement bits for 4 Pot brakes ordered, learned from previous experience on the Healing Cruiser that those rubber squeeze against the chrome rim brakes don't really cut the mustard when your doing speeds you shouldnt really be doing on a Healing Cruiser thats probably as old as me and came within an ants one of rear ending the car in front that was probably doing around 40, So Yes.. you can teach an old dog. Tonight I finally spun the bike motor up on a power supply and a 12v battery as the PSU only goes to 40V and maxes out at 160w, but!, rewire a success!

3 Sept 2025 In brief, the bike has a 1KW motor, four pot Disc Brakes front and rear, Pedals you dare not pedal unless you want to catapult yourself over the front as they are way too long and touch the ground without much rotation. Back to that strapping a battery on and go statement, well.. it ends up that this particular motor's windings are wired for higher speed rather than torque which is by fluke actually what I wanted, but the drawback of this is when you go up a long-ish hill it draws so much current that it melted the 3 Phase wires together The upshot of this was that the wires amalgamated into a long rigid blob of multicolour plastic which were a hair's breath of shorting out. This led to me getting hooked on Aliexpress and buying stuff, There were several occasions when I perhaps got a little impulsive and didnt really read the description properly, or I thought it might be a good idea as it was cheap as chips. After multiple purchases I ended up with a wiring loom that was what I actually needed and in the end the phase wires were increased from 2mm to 3.5mm, this was accompanied by long hours of frustration trying to make something fit what was too big for the hole, Jimmy. Eventually with the help of some non-personal lube, heat shrink tubing and enlarging the hole diameter by 0.5mm I eventually got there without damaging the cable, even if the loom ended up 1/2 a metre shorter from all the attempts. Another delightful experience was to find that the bearings were stuffed, I found this out by spinning the hub on my finger and nearly breaking my finger off in the direction of the hub rotation as it caught and suddenly stopped by transferring the rotational momentum to my finger up the middle of the bearing, so the bearings were pressed out with a precision big screwdriver and hammer and new ones inserted with slightly more care, and grease. Pic of wiring birds nest from hell almost sorted out because no pics is boring.

2 years later... So... Time marches on and very little progress until now. Have put the 8Kw Hub aside for now, and purchased a custom bike that I intend to modify that already had a hub mounted. Here's a pic of it when i first got it, Initially I thought it was going to be pretty much throw on a battery and go, but no... Good bones to start from at least.