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kempy

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Everything posted by kempy

  1. @h4nd Cheers, I have a couple of others already as well, knock yourself out @Ned
  2. Finally got around to collecting the finished wheel today This should get it off the mark a lot quicker than just the Jet, should I go this way...
  3. This should get it off the mark a bit quicker than the old one on the right
  4. Updating pics after iforce going the way of the dodo
  5. That's a shame, it had it's own crop circle included in the price Barfoots list it as being sold March 22 for $4,675,000 so Im guessing the Trademe link isn't pointing to the right place and just showing a suggestion, which i wouldnt mind TBH https://www.barfoot.co.nz/property/residential/papakura-district/ardmore/rural-property/818993
  6. Some dash cams do a similar thing , I have a HikVision dash cam that reads speed signs out audibly which is pretty handy in Akl traffic, it also has so other analytics like detecting if the car is moving away from you if you are stationary it says "Keep up with the car" but I turned that one off as its a little over zealous It can also warn you when the traffic lights go green..Kinda, Often Ive been parked and a voice speaks "Traffic light gone green", not a green light in sight, especially in my driveway.
  7. Yep, sure did. I forgot to mention... Before embarking on totally dismantling the motor, it's advisable to check that both sets of windings are OK, by memory the start winding was approx 8 ohms and the start winding approx 17 ohms. ( you'll need to take the terminal end of motor off to get to the winding side of the contacts to check this) If either winding is open then you're screwed without a rewind.,
  8. All reassembled, a quick check with the Multimeter and Fluke tester to check the windings, wiring of the reverse switch and earth leakage etc. and it's away. It starts instantly in either direction, the only thing that really need some attention is the black plastic or Bakelite clutch plate has a crack and in time could possibly fly apart. it also make a ticking noise when the clutch disengages and presses the black plate against the contacts as the motor comes to a stop or is starting up. Unsure if that's a part I will ever find so I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.
  9. The weights when spun, extend outwards and pull the clutch in (indicated by the direction of the Blue outlined arrow) and the contacts open, which disconnects the START winding. The issue here (as you may have already guessed) is that the Centrifugal Switch was jammed up by a little bit of corrosion and very old grease which had gone hard and by result permanently keeps the START winding open. Picture of a dirty shaft... Gave the motor windings and rotor a quick clean and blew out decades of old dust. Said shaft cleaned , lubricated, and reinstated clutch, points lightly filed to remove pitting and fitted, bearings were mint so were pressed back on and wiring reinstated to the correct terminals this time.
  10. This picture shows the clutch disengaged and the contacts closed, which would engage the START winding. The Start winding gives the motor an boosted magnetic field and kicks the motor in a direction determined by whether the phase/neutral are wired in forward or reversed. Here you can clearly see the two windings, The Red wires connect to the RUN windings, the black wires connect to the START windings. This of course may differ between motors, revisions. manufacturers etc. so don't trust this solely just by colour.
  11. As you can see from the picture above, it's an old Brooks 1/3 HP single phase motor. There's no starter capacitor on these, instead they have a centrifugal clutch which opens or closes a set of points/contacts. This motor has two sets of windings, one set is the RUN winding that stays powered when ever the motor is running, the second winding is a START winding, this winding is energised when the motor is first powered on and disconnects shortly after the motor reaches speed by means of a centrifugal clutch You can see from the L/H side arrow that the contact is open and sitting against a rest, it should be firmly against the contact which is shown by the R/H side arrow when the centrifugal clutch isn't engaged
  12. I haven't posted anything much apart from Random pictures for a long time, However realising that I'm in the company of other Myford Barry's and recently becoming a member of this exclusive sect, I thought I'd post up a few pictures for those that may come across this problem in future. I recently picked up a sweet little Myford ML7 lathe in really good condition, the previous owner has stripped it down and replaced guides, bearings, bushes etc. and apart from one or two things it's almost ready to go One of those things that needed attention was that the motor doesn't start by itself, instead it just meditates and hums.
  13. This thread reminds me that I must get my shit together and try this.
  14. Maybe a little excited to progress on this after sitting dead'n'th'shed for 23 years
  15. Spent some time reassembling the GSXR, slowly coming together
  16. And just to add, Feeling sorry for Red "The concrete mixer", so it'll probably get a rebuild shortly too, then We'll start attacking some some of their looks. Pic of Kempy Jr. enjoying his first ever motorbike ride, you kinda get the feeling he was enjoying it once he mastered the clutch.
  17. So roll on a year later and well..Have a seat please..... I've actually made some progress! Finally got the GSXR750 running, it took 3-4 years for find the ECU (CDI) and once I found the tricky little sneak security circuit and corrected the bodged wiring it fired up on some engine start. Today I had it running from the fuel tank with a freshly installed tank seal thats been around the world in 900 days and finally turned up on my doorstep this week. I need to find a battery, assemble it and replace the remaining fluids etc etc and then see if I can go for a quick blat. I think I'll flickit off, it's not really my thing and the idea of using the engine for a go-cart just isnt gonna happen. (the real reason as I know I''ll do something stupid and kill myself on it) CT90 and the FH50 have gone... although there may be more CT90 action to come. Ole mate @Tumeke gave me a hand to get the ball rolling on a couple of the A50's and now blue FA50 is up and running, really all it needed was fresh fuel and a Tyre tube. The far Red A50 is running, kinda. It smokes like a bastard and we discovered that the contents in the oil reservoir tank was engine oil, swapped that out for propper like 2T oil but its exhaust still resembled the Bandit's nemesis, in a serious way. Throttle was a bit sticky too, so we removed the cover for the oil pump and discovered why it was so stubborn, that's the inside of the cover and as you can see it was nearly a full tide. Nothing a bit of CRC and an air compressor couldn't fix, freed up the pump/cable, So now Big Red runs, but still kinda.. it sounds like an old concrete mixer, you know those old ones that had a Ring Gear around the edge and sort of made a grinding noise as it loaded up the gears on the heavy part of the cycle?, well it kinda sounds like that with this weird weird noise phasing and out every second or so. I suspect it may be a bearing issue... I also suspect there's still half a Texas oil well in the crank case as it continually dribbles oil from any orifice that isnt as it should be, exhaust included. So next up is the old green machine, Its my original AC50 from school days which a mate lunched while I was living in Europe, Needs a new piston and it will get the full rebuild experience, busy ordering parts which are being delivered by courier, so I should be good by the year 2154.
  18. I put a cyclone separator on mine and it works quite well,you can buy them for under $40 locally. Mine feeds a vacuum cleaner with a variable speed controller so I can turn down the airflow when using super fine media. Pulled an old vacuum apart, stuck it in a ply box and fed it to an outside vent so there’s no fine dust in the shed which was fairly important as at one stage I was blasting some old bronze pieces and the dist from that it pretty nasty I've been told\ Bolted a tall round Systema container I stole from the kitchen (Shhh!) on the bottom of the cyclone so it’s easy to remove and clean out, the whole thing just hangs off the side of the cabinet as the input Port fits the dust outlet perfectly on the cabinet Have been toying with making a small vapor blaster with one of those 220l cabinets from topmaq
  19. Well....., to put it bluntly, I've done SFA lately on these wee bikes, apart from get them all out and line them up in a shed So I think the plan is to get rid of the GSXR750 or strip the engine out for a go-cart or some kind of think that I wont kill myself in, get rid of the Vespa, CT90 and the get the FR50 and at least 2 of the AC50's going. Have just sent the 5KW hub for the FA50 away to get it laced into the 12" Rim, should have a fair amount of torque being on such a small rim so I'm looking forward to getting that back
  20. You might want to consider adding some fibres in the concrete, I played around with building speaker enclosures and found that it kept falling apart, for bigger cabinets I used fibre and rebar. I also found that concrete culvert pipes made good enclosures, good fun messing around with this stuff.
  21. this arrived today + a 120 amp sine wave controller + bits. Heavier than I imagined @13.5KG
  22. Man, this is a pleasant blast from the past. run timedemo demo1 or something like that was the test for CPU/Video card we used to run on Quake I have a ton of old SIMM's and DIMM's if you ever get stuck. Ironically I was looking at my old Jazz drive and 1GB cartridges just yesterday wondering what was on them and if I should have a crack at getting it going..
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