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Witchcraft! I just replaced the original fusebox with a new magical one from the future which isn't all hot and melty and gives me more than 9 volts at the headlights! Amaze. Represent. Another year of legality. And since all my thread images are poked, here's one so you and I don't forget what she looks like. <3

Sooo when I was chasing out all the threads I managed to put the wrong pitch M10 tap through one of the bellhousing mount holes. So had to invest in some thread repair kits. OUCH! My wallet. I got an M6 at the same time because there are some stripped threads on the gearbox. ...the gear lever retention plate thing is held down by four M6 bolts and all the holes are stripped.

Donkey deep in the swap now. Finished up wiring on weekend, have put a vaporworx pwm set up on the fuel system. It gets fed fuel pressure, MAP, and ecu on off signal and makes the magic happen from there. I reran the fuel line in a 1/2" line, dead headed set up. Trans and engine are in, changed rear stoppers to disc, also changed pinion yoke to 1350 size, it was 1310. Remade all the front brake lines, replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, basically all the steering/front end stuff is new. Changed the Instrument stuff to a Dakota digital set up that plugs into the Ecu for all the info. Cert check soon !!

Off for the final blast, then refit the bonnet, doors and boot lid and then off to paint woohoo

What’s wrong with points? A new set and condenser work fine. Cheap, easy, no hassles.

I should be in town sat-sun 5th and 6th oct for some mercury plaza if anyone is keen to join me

Not immediately build related but after seeing this stuff article @myk00l ( https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/115722682/worker-to-clean-up-christchurch-hoarder-house-begins ) I managed to get in touch with those involved and a sad sight awaited me. Three 110R wrecks All realistically too far gone to save due to rust, the guy told me they had driven into the site three years earlier but I found that verrry hard to believe. There was also two 120L models (one half converted into a rally car) and one solid looking one that apparently only has ~50,000kms on it before the head gasket blew and it was taken off the road. A guy in Dunedin who I've been in touch with has a 120L that he and his son are doing up but were struggling to find parts (was quoted $2,600 for a windscreen from Smith and Smith!). I managed to save the white 120 and will be taking it to Dunedin this weekend when I go down to pick up the Sabre. It's surprising solid considering it's been of the road for ~ 20 years. Almost don't want to let it go! Would come up good with a proper scrub! Also found a loose half axle sitting in one of the cars that I'm reconditioning to put into the Sabre after the fuckery I endured trying to replace oil seals without the right tools / knowledge. Aim is to have it on the road in time for the Mcleans Island swap meet.

Keen dependent on time

Ordered most of the engine bits, having trobble finding a TM kick start lever and TM cylinder head. Frame is also at the blasters and will get Duropox chassis paint. Also trying to find some rear shocks that are 340mm eye to eye with a 12mm hole.

Got it going with new gear ratio. It sheds the wheels spinning them with ease! Definitely worth the extra work to gear it at 6:100 in T8f. I need to raise it with thicker sleeves as I've bottomed out the chain a couple times on my driveway. Another 10mm ground clearance will make a world of difference. But hey, for 39cc it shreads!!!! Pretty happy with this one.

Rust repairs and painting gives me the shits, would much rather be doing exciting things... like smokey 11's Anywho, some more progress, back bumper was hiding some gems which needed dealing to.

Hi all, Nan from The Bling Company has invited us to check out the build of the 3rd RWB NZ Porsche on November 30 / December 1. Some of us will be on the East Cape ride, but this will be a fun day for those who are local. All the key details can be found here:

classic car parts in hawea can supply a complete set up pretty cheap. I recently got a electronic conversion kit, leads, triple electrode plugs and coil pretty damn cheap... check my build thread for the pic of what I got.. no point trying to retro fit something else if you can get off the shelf components.

They're not as smooth or reliable. An electronic ignition setup is fucking massively better. Almost night and day spec.

I'm keen.

assuming its got the standard 25d4 lucas dizzy (like my old 73 had), you can buy off the shelf electronic conversions for the factory dizzy as they are the same internally as every other mini blmc etc 25d4 dizzy, nice and easy swap to ditch the points

I'll text Jase. He's pretty busy with his newborn son though

Count me in

Email this morning: 17 September 2019 Mercury Plaza deal clears way for CRL Station City Rail Link Ltd (CRL Ltd) confirms it has completed negotiations to occupy central Auckland’s iconic Mercury Plaza for the City Rail Link (CRL) project. The Plaza, located in Mercury Lane off busy Karangahape Road, is the site of a long-established Asian supermarket and food hall. It will be deconstructed and the site used to support construction of the Karangahape Road underground station entrance and tunnels. “While a lot of people will be sad to see the closure of Mercury Plaza and the culinary diversity it brought to Auckland, the site’s temporary use by CRL Ltd is contributing to the transformation of the area and of public transport across wider Auckland,” says CRL Ltd’s acting Chief Executive, Patrick Brockie. Mercury Plaza’s food court developed around the Asian supermarket run by the Ng family. For 25 years the supermarket serviced the needs of the Asian community, and stall owners fed hungry Aucklanders with a variety of dishes from countries across Asia. It is due to close on 20 October. CRL Ltd says its agreement to occupy the site followed successful discussions with the owners of the Mercury Plaza and with the community of operators of the food stalls there. The supermarket will reopen in Panmure in early 2020 as the New Gum Sarn Supermarket. CRL Ltd says the Mercury Plaza site will be used to support excavation of a mine shaft on a next-door site for the station to be built up to 42 metres below ground. Access to the Plaza site will help ease the impact of construction on the local community. Karangahape Road is one of two underground stations being built as part of the CRL project, which includes construction of twin tunnels 3.45-kilometre-long below central Auckland linking the existing Britomart and Mt Eden stations. More information about the CRL project is available at https://www.cityraillink.co.nz

Here's the same circuit with 110v input,

Perfect. I'd have been real sad having my 100cc 2 stroke raped by the 125 4 stroke hahahahhaa.

Could be keen

Fark what a cool project. Love the ignition system made from plastic bottles. This rocket science is way over my head but I'm loving the diy. Keep up the good work.

Unless you get a cop that shows an interest in bikes or is old school traffic type i'm sure most wont care. In saying that if you're being a dick i'm sure they'll find something. It'll be an exciting ride with the 200!

For me it's 'less bad' if people have a bike license and ride a big cc swapped Moped. Then you're only risking riding a bike with the 'wrong engine' as opposed to riding on the wrong license class (even though the bike is cheap moped reg). Keen to see how this goes though! Will be pretty interesting to see it finished for sure. WR200's are fun even in stock form. Forgive my uber safety old man speeches btw. We lose a customer or two each year to bike accidents and having a solid crash a few east capes back + doing a ride forever course made me realise I knew way less than I had thought. Bigger cc and stock brakes make for some butt puckering moments. Nang hard. Do a skid etc.

We’d decided we were going to tackle 42 traverse. Which was a great choice for a shakedown ride imo. Adventure50 handled it quite well, 4t motor is just lazy and loves being held wide open to bounce up obstacles. Did a few jumps, bashed through a bunch of puddles, and succeeded at most hill climbs (let down by lack of rider skill mostly) apart from the really wet slippery clay ones (like picture) due to lack of tyre grip, as the SR241 trail tyres just clogged up. Cleared instantly though once back onto the more solid bits of the trail. relocating the airfilter into the frame was good, as it increased the wading depth. However we still had to carry/float the bikes across as a section of this was mid thigh deep. Even made it up to see some snow only issue on the day was I lost the exhaust nuts -my fault for not double nutting/using lock nuts. And could go for some firmer front springs as it bottoms out fairly easily. / less bent fork tubes might help too. however we only did 42 one way as on the way back Andrews bike broke and we had to walk it out. So I need to go back to ride it both ways again. #cape

Decided to get off my arse and install the efi, after the last run to hanmer I got sick of the flat spots and rough running.. Got all the gear out to hook it up. Got this far.. Then realised the injector plugs I grabbed from pickapart 5 years ago were wrong and they're for high impendence injectors, so I need to back out and get some others. Also while I'm out there I need a Nissan vg30 tps for the vg30 tb. I also need to buy an Oxy sensor, an ignitor and ballast resistor for the injectors. Speaking of injectors, still haven't been able to find any info on the denso's I have. 195500-0285 is the code if anyone knows.. Bought a new battery today as mine is about 2007 and doing random slow starts..

I actually like the rude rude as white bonnet look haha. 2pac likes it and that’s all that counts.

Bit of the old grease on the top of the IDA filter then lower the bonnet gently down, capturing the initial lower outline of where the cut needs to be. I need to get a couple extra bits to complete this like the thin black trim for the hole edge. My original red bonnet will remain mint so that I can chop and change the look at will. I noticed it was vibrating towards the front at 100km therefore I had a good look at it when I got home. The factors glue holding the frame to the skin was separating. Now we pumped a load of Wurth glue in the areas of concern and it all should be sweet after the glue tacks off.

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I have successfully made something that gives me 4 times as many shocks as a single ignition coil. Those sad old squares ignore me too.

So I found a local place that could anneal my sump which would allow me to pull it flat. Dymo Manufacturing in Wingate. They put it in their kiln with it bolted to the jig. It was heated up to.... hot, then allowed to cool down slowly over many hours. ~10 I think. $70. The heat seems to have baked out any oils and cooked the sealer that was still in the grooves on the mounting face. The sealer just crumbles and turns to powder when I scrape at it. Only down side was it caused some of the small M6 bolts to seize in the jig which I wasn't expecting, so I broke one and stripped at least two more. So I'll have to find some suitable bolts to bolt it back to the engine. Oops. But it's more or less flat already. So I am happy to bolt it back to the engine, the sealer will sort out any tiny gaps. Cast iron table saw top is the flattest thing I have. I did try move it around a bit, just in case the table saw top was bent. It's the same which ever way I put it. There is still a tiny gap at the front of the sump, but it's no bigger than 0.5mm and if I put some weight on it, it closes up. Yay.

Ill be pulling out the Motor/Box late this month. Any interest please contact me, it is on retard me, I will do a better deal for someone from here. Selling the complete LS3 ecu Trans pedal package. Pretty much a straight bolt in if you have a small block chev based car/boat/van/truck/camper/plane/chainsaw. Have bought another box with fancy stuff in it that is good for 800hp/lotta torque, still a 6l80 but better. Photos to follow when I go dig out the new engine from hidey hole that missus doesnt know about... shhhh Its kinda a little bit tempting to overdrive the boost a bit to make the most of the gearbox. Im unsure as to how much the driveshaft/12 bolt will live with, so will probably leave it alone at this stage.

Finally got round to making sure the tune was ok in the pig. Done 4000 ks in it so far hassle free, touch wood, did a bolt check and threw a bit of grease around. Made 353 hp at the rears (263.6 kw). Need to get the filter out of the engine bay, apart from sorting out some spark tables, it was knocking and reverting to low octane fuel tables because of inlet air temps. So theres 15 free (ish) hp available just by using a holesaw and a bit of panel steel... I havent got the tutd working as yet, wired up, but in the comadore it runs through the bcm (body control module) which I dont have in the chev, So I need to keep playing with that to get it working. Also discussed superchargers with the dyno operator. We both think its a great idea.