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Showing content with the highest reputation on 20/08/18 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    Update time, took this to hanmer at the begining of the month. all was going well until on the way back... pulled off the road to adjust one of the kids seatbelts. went to pull away and had no gear selection. turns out the box was jammed in 5th and had snapped a selector fork.... fuck... managed to drive it back from just outside of Hanmer to Christchurch in 5th, there were a few dicey moments like the big hill out of waikari and the turn back onto sh1 but made it back. fast forward to the weekend just gone and its fix it time, man i need a hoist for myself. it made the job a hundred times easier. because of the lack of good gearboxes in stock we converted the car from short case r30 gearbox to long case box out of a 280zx. that did unfortunately mean loosing the bench seat thanks to @JustHarry the total GC for sorting the use of the hoist helping to get her done
  2. 8 points
    Here's what's inside a Jag electric mirror: I opened it because the mirror glass shook around too much to see anything while driving. On the left of the photo is the glass backing plate (complete with heating element because England), and on the right are the two motors. The 'fixed' central ball-and-socket pivot mount with the yellow arrow had in/out play for some reason. I put a washer down its socket hole to pack it out and take up the slack, and it's improved. Another even more important thing I needed to fix was the radio aerial. The original motorised one had failed (big surprise) and the previous owner had replaced it with a manual one. This made me die a little bit inside, especially as the aerial is out on the rear wing. One does not feel very wealthy pulling over and getting out of one's car to go and extend the aerial in view of passing commoners. I bought a new electric aerial (universal, not Lucas) and fitted it with much excitement. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. I feel like a yuppie. Antenna goes up.. ..and thankfully stops short of my very low garage door. Just need to find an adapter for the annoying coaxial connector on the Jaguar cable back to the head unit. Tomorrow the Jag is going away for a while to get those inboard rear brakes and their awful grinding noises sorted out. Expect some horror stories, but also expect some form of exhaust modifications to be done at the same time.
  3. 4 points
    So I said it should be sweet. Was I fuckin right or what?! I started by making each face of the new wing in separate pieces of steel and tacking them together. There was a time when I would have tried to fold it all out of one piece but it was much easier to do it this way. With it all tacked up, I snapped it off the pedal box and welded it fully. Then tacked it up again and welded it to the box properly. Then I marked and drilled the appropriate holes to mount up the master. The bottom bolt is a bit of a pig to get in and out because it ended up right on the wall of the original pedal box. Eventually, I think I'll swap it for the studs that the master originally had but shorten them a little and run a nut on the inside of the pedal box. Should make the whole situation a lot easier to mount. Finally, here is the pedal at clutch fully out, And fully in. Next I knocked together this little fella, And filled up the old clutch cable connection point. Their powers combined they make this: A neat little adjustable pedal stop with a rubber button from the original Mazda pedal. Much better than putting a nut and bolt through the floor like I've seen suggested on some pages online. With that, the pedal box modifications are finished (at least in the clutch department anyway). Now I just have to get on to mounting it. To start, I ground off the return on the doubler plate and clutch cable conduit where it would foul the new wing. Then I made an extension for the doubler plate and welded it on. Finally, I had to drill and cut the holes to allow the master cylinder to penetrate the firewall. It just so happened that the center of the main hole was inside the clutch conduit hole so a hole saw would have made a terrible mess wandering around everywhere trying to cut the hole. Instead, I bolted up the pedal box and used it as a template to make the two smaller bolt holes. Then I made a temporary support for the hole saw and bolted it to the bulkhead with the new holes. Which let me cut it out from the other side. I might weld up the oval parts of the original penetration but it works fine as it is for now. As tempted as I was to bolt the pedal box and master cylinder straight up, I figured I'd get a little more fab done in the area while I was here. So I made up this little guy, And tacked it in place on the firewall. I also threw the pedal box and master on while I was there, Before mounting this sweet piece of kit. It's a leftover from my old man's roadster when he mistakenly ordered the wrong kit for his braking system. I reckon it fits really nicely in there and I'll only need a short 90-degree elbow to connect it up. The whole thing came out looking kick ass and I'm really happy with the result. It's going to be fantastic when it's finished and running. I'm just leaving the mounting pedestal tacked on there for now until I find a brake master cylinder that will work in case I need to shift it to make it fit. That leads me to a request for help. What brake master cylinder should I use? Bearing in mind I plan to use princess four-piston calipers on the front and I'm not sure exactly what on the rear yet. I am going to use the R31 skyline diff that I have but I'm not sure what brakes to use on it. I don't have any for it yet and I'm looking at probable disks of some sort but I'm not sure which and I'm open to suggestions. I'm looking at a Datsun B310 master right now because it's the same bore as a standard Mk2 Escort master but it has the under and over mounting holes. I'll have to run a remote booster but that won't be an issue. My only concern is whether or not it would be compatible with disk brakes in the rear due to its internal residual pressure valve. I'm open to suggestions if you have any. Please let me know here:
  4. 4 points
    Getting more confident at this metal foldy bendy stuff.. Centre console bracket was missing from this car so i copied the one from my other celica. Carpet all installed Back seat area all cleaned/painted Wheel arch vinyl was tired so i resprayed it And finally stopped procrastination and primed the drivers side roof
  5. 3 points
    Finally got a bit of paint on it, started on the roof today. Striping/lace/flake to follow in the week when I get the chance. Defo not going to Baja it now, not only because I'm about to crack into the HiLux but also my stepson is about to start driving and stock beetles are about the cheapest thing to insure when you're 17. Sticking with the 1200 too, but still gonna drop the front. And maybe put the 8" rims on the back. Pics
  6. 3 points
    Broom broom, took it for a Hoon.
  7. 3 points
  8. 2 points
    I bought a $90 jobbie off aliexpress can charge at 20 amps but also has enough balls to jumpstart, bonus feature is a desulphation function which breaks up the acid crystals that fuck batteries. Its revived several big 6 volt deep cycle batteries now bloody good value.
  9. 2 points
    Indicators finally arrived last week so fucked around with the mess under the seat and got them all working. Also brought some lame ass reflectors so as far as I'm aware I should be ready for a wof! Also went through my old phone and found a photo of the bike when I first go it, and am pretty happy with what I've done Hopefully sort warrant and license by next weekend and I'll be hitting the road. Before After
  10. 2 points
    glued the screens in today. it went ok. ended up using a Henkel product which is the right stuff apparently, we'll see........ i reckon a car doesn't really look right until the screens go back in. so, the screens are back in. 2018-08-18_12-17-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-08-18_12-17-08 by sheepers, on Flickr
  11. 2 points
  12. 2 points
    I've been trying to resist driving the Jag too much because of the condition of the rear brakes, thinking that my local Jaguar Barry was ordering me in some brake parts and would be contacting me any day once they'd arrived. Long story short, brakes not fixed and I need a new Barry. =( Meanwhile, the drivers seat had come loose and the seat heater wasn't working, so I took the seat out to have a look. What's it mounted with? Bolts that take a Torx T35. The seat heater wiring insulation was brittle and cracking and the wire had broken at an inconvenient point: I used a crimp joiner thing to fix it, and confirmed that the seat heater was working with a current clamp before putting the seat back in. Fortunately the reason for the seat being loose was just the rail coming unbolted from the frame (Jaguar appear not to have used washers), and I found a compatible replacement for the missing bolt. Now I use the seat heater at every opportunity, but considering the state of the wires and the amount of sag in the Jaguar seat bases, I don't imagine it will last long. Rather, one of these days it'll attempt to catch my arse on fire. Another thing I "fixed" is the squealing from one of the two cabin ventilation fans. I thought that the squeal plus a lack of air from the central vents meant that the motor wasn't spinning, so I took the fan out to test it. This wasn't actually too difficult - only some of the passenger side of the dash had to come out. The fan housing was getting a little rusty but the motor was OK and the brushes weren't too worn, so I lubricated it heaps and wrestled it back in place. I then realised that the central vents only lack hot air, but cold air works fine once I understand the controls. Still, the undignified motor squealing did spoil the ambience and I'm glad it's fixed (or at least stopped for a while). While trying to understand weird things about the dash, I checked the owners manual. I got a laugh out of this section, which aims to psychologically prepare you for life as an XJ-S owner:
  13. 1 point
    I see my worker @Kass has signed up to oldschool.co.nz Pretty sweet of you @MopedNZ to sus him a bike for the ride.
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Mate, a straight pipe and a couple of Cobys exiting through the sill and shit will be cash.
  16. 1 point
    I welded my brake pedal pad. You'd never know. I'm happy with it... better then the stock weld poo. I live life on the edge man.... just me and my 50bhp.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    cheers! I keep meaning to put a post in the depression thread, but every time i read it people are having a way tougher time than i was. but the advice given there was invaluable. focused on the shit job being temporary and kept looking for a new good opportunity and backed myself hard when going for it. after my entire professional career being fixing things i got pretty sick of it, and now i professionally break things cars, trucks buses at high way speeds into roadside barriers. hard work, but shit its satisfying, and then at lunch we play with company race cars, which is a seen as a learning and development exercise for all those interested.
  19. 1 point
    Tonight decided to make a start been a long week. I removed the engine mounts. The original mounts appear to be still attached but grinded off half n squared with chassis. Hopefully joining onto them will be easy. Gave it some hammerite metal protect.you can see the mount cut off about 15mm inside the weld line.
  20. 1 point
    Beverage in payment of picking up Barbie’s Dream Scooter. Even tried to get it running in my garage but Barbie’s hole was a bit too loose for the shaft.
  21. 1 point
    Thinking it might be a block heater for pre warming the engine with 240 voltrons
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Quick Update: @JustHarry Cut some shit And we cobbled together an exhaust system out of some spare 2" pipe and the remains of the parts wagons exhaust. I think it still has the front struts to suit the Z18 because they're not too far off the bump stops. Yay free slam but it gives the car a good 45mm rake front to rear. Saturday night I got very frustrated with wiring because of nothing having plugs and being in odd spots but the Charge light and oil pressure light work, it charges the battery, the fuel tank is bolted in and plumbed up, I bolted a front on the car (which something isnt quite straight), And I started cleaning out the interior. The Parts wagon had a full set of halogen lights which have made their way onto the car. Didn't get it ready for a Wof unfortunately but not much more to do. Just adjust and bleed brakes again, Tidy up then engine bay, clean and fit interior, and get some tyres with tread on them off @Beaubot.
  24. 1 point
    Sunday I was a little slow getting going after the late night but the show must go on. I bolted the gearbox support brackets on which i'd neglected to do while the engine was out, bolted on the slave cylinder and bleed it. New clutch felt good. I used the front half of the driveshaft out of the sedan I nicked the trans out of to get a good center bearing and to use the yoke that had been in the trans for 233k. The r30 driveshafts are odd with a large diameter front section and the rear section being 2/3 the diameter. Next was fitting the reconed radiator which I found Brendan had soldered a 20c coin over one of the holes left by the now removed trans cooler. When I picked it up he said it was an original core in very good condition but about 30% blocked so it was worth getting it checked. Had to slot the holes on the fan shroud so it cleared the fan for some reason. The C32 bottom hose fitted like a glove and the top one just needed 75mm taken out of the middle so naturally them being in usable condition and to save me going and getting new ones they were fitted using hose clamps I stole off a couple of the wrecks. Wasn't sure what condition the heater core was in so I just looped the feed and return hoses on the engine. While I was filling the diff, transmission, and engine with oil and fitting a new filter i noticed the engine didn't have an oil cooler. Another thing to fit at a later date. Because none of the wires are labeled and all are a bit of a mess It was a little entertaining finding out which did what. I worked out the starter trigger, glow plug, and IP cut which was enough for the moment. The R30 wagon wreck donated it's fuel filter mount and the C32 its filter housing and for the moment the fuel filter (it was water free and clean). A lawnmower fuel tank was plumed in for a temporary fuel supply and with a battery it coughed into life. yay. Before taking it off the stands the brakes were bleed and the clutch slave another check. It was then rolled outside to fill the cooling system and left idling to bleed the air out. Now I could finally take it for a short blast. And short it was..... about 100M. I'd neglected to plumb the fuel return line into the temporary fuel tank so it was firing the excess fuel out the back of the car where the fuel tank should have been. So I ran out of fuel pretty quick. It sounded awesome with the exhaust exiting a foot from the manifold. Being late and I still needed to drive home it was pushed into the garage. Hopefully WOF next week.
  25. 1 point
    Last week I took my transmission and fuel tank to work to fix. Welded up the crack in the tank and then pumped a few PSI of air into it to check for leaks which there were none. I also replaced the input and output shaft seals in the transmission and the front housing gasket in an attempt to reduce the oil leaks. I replaced the rear main seal on the engine too so hopefully the new clutch shouldn't get any oil on it. The weekend's goal was for it to run and drive. Saturday I picked up the new clutch kit and machined flywheel plus a new clutch slave cylinder as all mine were locked up solid and no chance of moving. Removed flex plate from engine, changed rear main, and then came changing the spigot bush. It was in bloody tight, so much so that the usual trick of pack it with grease and hammer a drift in didn't work. Even when I gave it a solid wack with a mallet it just ignited the grease and fired the bolt out. Yeah turns out you can ignite grease with compression. I resorted to cutting a groove in it with a die grinder to relieve the tension and hooked it out. New bush went in with a few taps of a hammer. Flywheel, clutch, and transmission bolted up no issues. Did a few other things, spun the car around in the garage to use the engine crane, had a little tidy up, and then it was engine fitting time. Attempt 1: picked engine up and found it was 180 degrees around on the crane. Put it down and changed the attachment points. picked engine up and slotted into the engine bay. With the engine hard against the firewall the mounts didn't meet by 40mm. Took engine back out and measured the distance between engine and gearbox mounting points and the respective places on the car. It was off by a bit. Turns out I had the the wrong engine cross member. Pulled correct one out of wreck in the dark. Then whilst cleaning it off it was noticed I had a better condition one sitting on the wood bin next to me being used to weigh the cover down. Fitted that and tried again. Attempt 2: Guided engine into engine bay. Was getting hung up on something and not fitting in. Crawled under car and found the sump was hitting the cross member. Took engine back out. Turns out that even though an R30 and C32 are both front sump the sumps are different. Went and found a skyline sump I had that had a dent in it but was usable and hammered some of the dent out. Took sump off engine and made sure the oil pickup was correct. Gave the skyline sump a bit of a clean with brake cleaner and cleaned both gasket surfaces. Fitted Skyline sump to the engine with RTV sealing it in lieu of a gasket. Cleaned diesel oil off tools and tried again. Attempt 3: Slotted engine into engine bay and it fitted like a glove. Finally. The engine mounts took a little levering to get the dowel pins to slot in place correctly but at 11:45pm it was off the crane and bolted in place. Did a couple other small jobs then pushed the car properly into the garage and called it a night at 1am.
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