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Update time, took this to hanmer at the begining of the month. all was going well until on the way back... pulled off the road to adjust one of the kids seatbelts. went to pull away and had no gear selection. turns out the box was jammed in 5th and had snapped a selector fork.... fuck... managed to drive it back from just outside of Hanmer to Christchurch in 5th, there were a few dicey moments like the big hill out of waikari and the turn back onto sh1 but made it back. fast forward to the weekend just gone and its fix it time, man i need a hoist for myself. it made the job a hundred times easier. because of the lack of good gearboxes in stock we converted the car from short case r30 gearbox to long case box out of a 280zx. that did unfortunately mean loosing the bench seat thanks to @JustHarry the total GC for sorting the use of the hoist helping to get her done

hooooly shit. Just read through all 28 pages of this trip. I'm keen to do it on the C1 now that it's legal if people are still good to sign on at this late-ish stage? @64vauxhall I'm down to tag along on your extra journey just lemme know which days I need to take off work. Looking to find/make some roofracks for it or just use tie downs.

Decided it was a good time to pull the front end off and pull the motor out to clean up the bay and motor since it was a bit shabby looking.

So I bought this wagon off ol mate Aaron over a year ago got it shipped up here and drove it around all last summer to Leadfoot festival etc.

What the fuck is that

Here's what's inside a Jag electric mirror: I opened it because the mirror glass shook around too much to see anything while driving. On the left of the photo is the glass backing plate (complete with heating element because England), and on the right are the two motors. The 'fixed' central ball-and-socket pivot mount with the yellow arrow had in/out play for some reason. I put a washer down its socket hole to pack it out and take up the slack, and it's improved. Another even more important thing I needed to fix was the radio aerial. The original motorised one had failed (big surprise) and the previous owner had replaced it with a manual one. This made me die a little bit inside, especially as the aerial is out on the rear wing. One does not feel very wealthy pulling over and getting out of one's car to go and extend the aerial in view of passing commoners. I bought a new electric aerial (universal, not Lucas) and fitted it with much excitement. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. Antenna goes up, antenna goes down. I feel like a yuppie. Antenna goes up.. ..and thankfully stops short of my very low garage door. Just need to find an adapter for the annoying coaxial connector on the Jaguar cable back to the head unit. Tomorrow the Jag is going away for a while to get those inboard rear brakes and their awful grinding noises sorted out. Expect some horror stories, but also expect some form of exhaust modifications to be done at the same time.

Canadian club plz. Blue diesel will cause removal of engine and a worn out one installed instead

Added a few other things into the wagon New carpets, tig welded up an over flow bottle out of stainless, seats are at midnight upholstery currently, and new moon glitter bomb wheel.

Holy lols, thats quite a thing. Yeah no trouble, should have a proper entry form for everyone shortly, I'm holding things up need to pull finger etc. But yeah, do it.

Been a while since last update. Been getting a bit carried away with my datsun of late. Baffled sump all made up with water cooled copper line inside Going to be putting engine back together this week

So I said it should be sweet. Was I fuckin right or what?! I started by making each face of the new wing in separate pieces of steel and tacking them together. There was a time when I would have tried to fold it all out of one piece but it was much easier to do it this way. With it all tacked up, I snapped it off the pedal box and welded it fully. Then tacked it up again and welded it to the box properly. Then I marked and drilled the appropriate holes to mount up the master. The bottom bolt is a bit of a pig to get in and out because it ended up right on the wall of the original pedal box. Eventually, I think I'll swap it for the studs that the master originally had but shorten them a little and run a nut on the inside of the pedal box. Should make the whole situation a lot easier to mount. Finally, here is the pedal at clutch fully out, And fully in. Next I knocked together this little fella, And filled up the old clutch cable connection point. Their powers combined they make this: A neat little adjustable pedal stop with a rubber button from the original Mazda pedal. Much better than putting a nut and bolt through the floor like I've seen suggested on some pages online. With that, the pedal box modifications are finished (at least in the clutch department anyway). Now I just have to get on to mounting it. To start, I ground off the return on the doubler plate and clutch cable conduit where it would foul the new wing. Then I made an extension for the doubler plate and welded it on. Finally, I had to drill and cut the holes to allow the master cylinder to penetrate the firewall. It just so happened that the center of the main hole was inside the clutch conduit hole so a hole saw would have made a terrible mess wandering around everywhere trying to cut the hole. Instead, I bolted up the pedal box and used it as a template to make the two smaller bolt holes. Then I made a temporary support for the hole saw and bolted it to the bulkhead with the new holes. Which let me cut it out from the other side. I might weld up the oval parts of the original penetration but it works fine as it is for now. As tempted as I was to bolt the pedal box and master cylinder straight up, I figured I'd get a little more fab done in the area while I was here. So I made up this little guy, And tacked it in place on the firewall. I also threw the pedal box and master on while I was there, Before mounting this sweet piece of kit. It's a leftover from my old man's roadster when he mistakenly ordered the wrong kit for his braking system. I reckon it fits really nicely in there and I'll only need a short 90-degree elbow to connect it up. The whole thing came out looking kick ass and I'm really happy with the result. It's going to be fantastic when it's finished and running. I'm just leaving the mounting pedestal tacked on there for now until I find a brake master cylinder that will work in case I need to shift it to make it fit. That leads me to a request for help. What brake master cylinder should I use? Bearing in mind I plan to use princess four-piston calipers on the front and I'm not sure exactly what on the rear yet. I am going to use the R31 skyline diff that I have but I'm not sure what brakes to use on it. I don't have any for it yet and I'm looking at probable disks of some sort but I'm not sure which and I'm open to suggestions. I'm looking at a Datsun B310 master right now because it's the same bore as a standard Mk2 Escort master but it has the under and over mounting holes. I'll have to run a remote booster but that won't be an issue. My only concern is whether or not it would be compatible with disk brakes in the rear due to its internal residual pressure valve. I'm open to suggestions if you have any. Please let me know here:

Getting more confident at this metal foldy bendy stuff.. Centre console bracket was missing from this car so i copied the one from my other celica. Carpet all installed Back seat area all cleaned/painted Wheel arch vinyl was tired so i resprayed it And finally stopped procrastination and primed the drivers side roof

Have owned this over a year now I should probs let everyone see what I've been up to. Will start adding to this tonight stay tuned

Currently fixing the rust in the bonnet ready for paint.

So it’s probably about time I put an update on this. Since I last posted a lot has changed. I bought a house and got engaged! New shed is grouse and been actually working on the car and other people’s car quite a lot. Namely supercharging a k24 Honda engine. Damn it goes good. Progress report; rear diffuser side plates folded and fitted. Aim here is to empty the air from the rear tyre wells cleanly and just look cool and be functional-ish Lots of room for activities (got to get a bloody exhaust out here somehow too - but that’s a problem for another day) Fuel cell mounting is now complete also. Maybe over engineered it a little but it’s not going anywhere in a crash most importantly. Mounted straps to stainless tubing front and rear with bosses welded in. Was the strongest/lightest combo I could think of doing. Pretty glad this job is done it was a pain in the ass Haven’t finished off the plumbing for the top end of the fuel cell yet. Maybe it should be next on the list?

Keen on a couple trees. And yeah our crew is chillin at the same motel as most others on friday night. Was gonna camp out somewhere but we wouldve been on the road for a few days at that point so a shower and a spot tp charge the phones will be ideal. Plus keen as to wear our Smash Palace tshirts from down here at the Smash Palace in gizzy

Finally got a bit of paint on it, started on the roof today. Striping/lace/flake to follow in the week when I get the chance. Defo not going to Baja it now, not only because I'm about to crack into the HiLux but also my stepson is about to start driving and stock beetles are about the cheapest thing to insure when you're 17. Sticking with the 1200 too, but still gonna drop the front. And maybe put the 8" rims on the back. Pics

Broom broom, took it for a Hoon.

BMW C1 176cc's of European finesse and styling haha yeah, ugly asf but thats why I like it. It has seatbelts and an interior light! Fixed it up with my dad after saving it from the scrappy for $500.

Re routed the spark leads with a custom set from segedins.

Welded up all the holes in inner guards to clean it up. Also had to tig a new panel supplied from @Carsnz123 because of damage from Aaron's ex girlfriend. All came up pretty nice

@- i5oogt -, @Carsnz123 said i can come up and drink your beer while you work. Will see you soon.

thats tomorrows job... after @JustHarry, @76rolla_gurl and myself finish it off tonight

Battery in the 121 is at least 9 years.. as is the one in the zephyr

Beers Purple Goannas.

I bought a $90 jobbie off aliexpress can charge at 20 amps but also has enough balls to jumpstart, bonus feature is a desulphation function which breaks up the acid crystals that fuck batteries. Its revived several big 6 volt deep cycle batteries now bloody good value.

Indicators finally arrived last week so fucked around with the mess under the seat and got them all working. Also brought some lame ass reflectors so as far as I'm aware I should be ready for a wof! Also went through my old phone and found a photo of the bike when I first go it, and am pretty happy with what I've done Hopefully sort warrant and license by next weekend and I'll be hitting the road. Before After

glued the screens in today. it went ok. ended up using a Henkel product which is the right stuff apparently, we'll see........ i reckon a car doesn't really look right until the screens go back in. so, the screens are back in. 2018-08-18_12-17-15 by sheepers, on Flickr 2018-08-18_12-17-08 by sheepers, on Flickr

I've been trying to resist driving the Jag too much because of the condition of the rear brakes, thinking that my local Jaguar Barry was ordering me in some brake parts and would be contacting me any day once they'd arrived. Long story short, brakes not fixed and I need a new Barry. =( Meanwhile, the drivers seat had come loose and the seat heater wasn't working, so I took the seat out to have a look. What's it mounted with? Bolts that take a Torx T35. The seat heater wiring insulation was brittle and cracking and the wire had broken at an inconvenient point: I used a crimp joiner thing to fix it, and confirmed that the seat heater was working with a current clamp before putting the seat back in. Fortunately the reason for the seat being loose was just the rail coming unbolted from the frame (Jaguar appear not to have used washers), and I found a compatible replacement for the missing bolt. Now I use the seat heater at every opportunity, but considering the state of the wires and the amount of sag in the Jaguar seat bases, I don't imagine it will last long. Rather, one of these days it'll attempt to catch my arse on fire. Another thing I "fixed" is the squealing from one of the two cabin ventilation fans. I thought that the squeal plus a lack of air from the central vents meant that the motor wasn't spinning, so I took the fan out to test it. This wasn't actually too difficult - only some of the passenger side of the dash had to come out. The fan housing was getting a little rusty but the motor was OK and the brushes weren't too worn, so I lubricated it heaps and wrestled it back in place. I then realised that the central vents only lack hot air, but cold air works fine once I understand the controls. Still, the undignified motor squealing did spoil the ambience and I'm glad it's fixed (or at least stopped for a while). While trying to understand weird things about the dash, I checked the owners manual. I got a laugh out of this section, which aims to psychologically prepare you for life as an XJ-S owner:

Pulled motor out. Steam blast, wire wheel etc. Re gasketed most units didn't feel like a full re build with jet boat engine all ready apart and the engine just runs good as it is dont fuck with it if it ain't broken. All re painted in two pot epoxy

yeah. i havent been for a while. but i did know that other people may be out and about on wednesday. one month i did show up on a thursday. Was most upset to have to burger by my self

Warranty on batteries is typically 2-3years for regular use and 1-2 for commercial application. Life span is obviously use dependant but getting 5 is considered OK. I tried to charge a battery from works John Deere which was 6 years old but it wasn't having a bar of it. Sat at the same charge level for ages then exploded. Hah. Ah well.

Dont have any plans at all, was hoping to do it all in a tent but we will see

Early/mid arvo at my place in pap to convoy to J5s @64vauxhall?

Yep should be able to use the bach again pending a quick email to check availability. Blizzo and myself have a room at the motel

Ta da! That's the last bit of rust on the shell taken care of, you can see some pitting on the parcel shelf but meh, it'll be ok. The whole thing is in primer now and at home while I save some more money before having the actual panel and paint done.

cheers! I keep meaning to put a post in the depression thread, but every time i read it people are having a way tougher time than i was. but the advice given there was invaluable. focused on the shit job being temporary and kept looking for a new good opportunity and backed myself hard when going for it. after my entire professional career being fixing things i got pretty sick of it, and now i professionally break things cars, trucks buses at high way speeds into roadside barriers. hard work, but shit its satisfying, and then at lunch we play with company race cars, which is a seen as a learning and development exercise for all those interested.

Handlebar tape to the rescue..

Doing preventative maintenance before taking it to @Shaz for a WOF test, glad I did just found 2 nuts loose under one hub cap. Anyways traced this wire that I was going to remove Back to this thing . . . but what it it attached too? (underside on passengers side) (top side passengers side) screenshot app

Sunday I was a little slow getting going after the late night but the show must go on. I bolted the gearbox support brackets on which i'd neglected to do while the engine was out, bolted on the slave cylinder and bleed it. New clutch felt good. I used the front half of the driveshaft out of the sedan I nicked the trans out of to get a good center bearing and to use the yoke that had been in the trans for 233k. The r30 driveshafts are odd with a large diameter front section and the rear section being 2/3 the diameter. Next was fitting the reconed radiator which I found Brendan had soldered a 20c coin over one of the holes left by the now removed trans cooler. When I picked it up he said it was an original core in very good condition but about 30% blocked so it was worth getting it checked. Had to slot the holes on the fan shroud so it cleared the fan for some reason. The C32 bottom hose fitted like a glove and the top one just needed 75mm taken out of the middle so naturally them being in usable condition and to save me going and getting new ones they were fitted using hose clamps I stole off a couple of the wrecks. Wasn't sure what condition the heater core was in so I just looped the feed and return hoses on the engine. While I was filling the diff, transmission, and engine with oil and fitting a new filter i noticed the engine didn't have an oil cooler. Another thing to fit at a later date. Because none of the wires are labeled and all are a bit of a mess It was a little entertaining finding out which did what. I worked out the starter trigger, glow plug, and IP cut which was enough for the moment. The R30 wagon wreck donated it's fuel filter mount and the C32 its filter housing and for the moment the fuel filter (it was water free and clean). A lawnmower fuel tank was plumed in for a temporary fuel supply and with a battery it coughed into life. yay. Before taking it off the stands the brakes were bleed and the clutch slave another check. It was then rolled outside to fill the cooling system and left idling to bleed the air out. Now I could finally take it for a short blast. And short it was..... about 100M. I'd neglected to plumb the fuel return line into the temporary fuel tank so it was firing the excess fuel out the back of the car where the fuel tank should have been. So I ran out of fuel pretty quick. It sounded awesome with the exhaust exiting a foot from the manifold. Being late and I still needed to drive home it was pushed into the garage. Hopefully WOF next week.

Went to this terrible cafe

Making a start here too WTB: rest of bike