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Not relevant to the topic, but please don't do that stupid F shit. This isn't facebook, commenting F does not notify you when there are replies. Do this if you really want notifications for this topic, don't spam up the thread.

Well, ive been trying to get this old nugget going again. I have been working on it off and on over summer, when it wasnt too hot and I could be bothered. Firstly, i put some decent wheels on it : SSR Longchamp XR4 15x7.5 -14 Rear. 15x7.0 +11 Front. Was a real hassle getting them polished and machined up locally but got there in the end. Fitted the biggest front mount intercooler that I could for the size available. 3 full days of cutting carefully, making mounts etc. and I probably had the fucking thing in and out 20 times. 300X600X76 Aeroflow core with 3 inch end tanks. It was cheap and should be ample for my needs. Sorted a turbo smart 38mm external wastegate, Started the wiring, pretty basic really. I bought a new N14 GTIR alloy radiator - fits this engine bay pretty well and am about to start mocking up the aluminuim intercooler pipes next. Also fitted a genuine Walbro 255L fuel pump, was a bit of pissing around but got it mounted eventually. No rust in the fuel tank, not a single spec! Pretty happy with that. The saga continues, should be running in a few weeks hopefully.

So 2 weeks before moving to the US this happens! Guy in OZ is rebuilding a T57 and needed a new block. So got to and cast one up! Didnt go 100% but still really well. On a plane to LA in 3days!

Well sorry guys. I never did update this thread, Needless to say it all went swimmingly And I managed to get it all wired back up. I never got to see it start up, as I had to go on my bike trip, and they had to do a service on the motor, Bike trip was epic, way more epic than fixing a train. But fucked train paid for the trip so yey for fucked trains Apparently it started first try with no wiring faults. So pretty happy about that. Especially since I was a month under best estimate and 4 months ahead of what they expected. It's back in for a service (I got a permanent job out of the cab replacement, and doing a bit of servicing and fault finding to the coaches) So work for them full time now. Any way. Here's some pics Yeah so that's it, It's also taken out some other retard who jumped in front of it, but they went under the murder train so no real damage.

Suzuki Owners Group, Take One Tried to order everything I could think of at once, hopefully more than half of it works / fits. List for future reference / if anyone wants to do similar and for myself to order replacement parts. Por15 tank sealer NOS leg shield inddicator assemblies BIG BLOCK! GPX 140cc Motor MIKUNI - PZ30 30mm Carb CDI - 8 Pin Race Wiring Loom - 8 Pin x2 Vesrah brake shoes VB312 Clutch, Brake and Throttle cable Dual Layer Pod 44 x 102 15deg Angled Uni Filter Domino Tommaselli Throttle Petrol tubing neoprene 3/16"i.d. black (m) Fuel Filter x2 Brake & Clutch leavers 2008/09 Hayden Paddon poster "signed . . . oh what! x2 275-17 HF307 Trail tyres x2 Tubes & Rim Tapes for rusty rim jobs New side stand Carb Manifold Intake Rotator Adapter image hosting websitescertificity.com Frame water blasted and ready for re assembly ish. how to take a screenshot on a pccertificity.com The plan is to try and retain some patina with new running gear in places required. So far the frame is a fair bit more different than from the Honda CUB family so this might not be the simple bolt in job I expected, hence the grinder on standby. Getting the carb to fit will the least fun! Que Rotator Adapter If anyone speaks to the wife . . . all the above only cost a box of beer! LETS DO THIS

I thought normally commercial tyre work out to be 82 profile?

Lol. I don't do face book, so was about to ask what the fuck f meant, unless you happened to be referring to the diff head code, which in this situation, will in fact be an ' f '

sundays suppose to be thunder storms so bring your best windscreen wiping rags for when shit gets foggy.

Oosh, cool job. looks like the same train as my Hornby my G-pops gave to me for being born in 1981

just compression test the engine First lol

Pretty much. But I thought maybe it might be in the higher single or low double digit numbers of deaths. LOL/not LOL

As an aside clean or change the spark plugs, all that cranking and no fire equals fouled.

Whoa, those baby-things take up ALOT of time! I've managed to get the odd bit done on this though. To cure the oil leakage issues that FD's commonly suffer from, a sump brace is purportedly the way to go. They're available to buy, but I thought it'd be fun to give making one a go. I ordered a sump flange gasket, with much tracing and scanning later I had the pattern cad'd up, and could cut up a blank on the waterjet at work. We had some 1/4" 316 stainless plate at work, and I figured that would be good to use. Wont go rusty, and it pretty damn stiff. Kind of heavy, but most of it gets cut away anyway...

The good folk at Midnight Upholstery will be horribly offended if we don't show up so I sure hope we manage to get some cars on the road for this one.

The little Fiat seemed to be running horrendously rich. There was fuel oozing out around the emulsion tube due to a bad seal. Also, it turns out the mixture screw was set 7 full turns out... 6 and a half turns in later and it's much better. I took it for a good fang up the road and the plugs are a much nicer colour. 3 days after this, a carb kit turned up. So easy to get at, I love it. Minutes later... Take one of these and call me in the morning.

Who want's to take bets on the rubber that turn's up looking nothing like this: hosting imagecertificity.com

Spacers will make up the difference I can't justify spending half the value of the car on wheels so I'll have the shit looking gtst wheels if they are 1/4 the price. Man a grand for a set of wheels is another car...

Thanks. I'm going to write a post in a few days about what I learned, what was hard and what I'd do differently, so keep reading. People never seem to do that on internet forums so I find people keep copying ideas and making the same mistakes.

Shhh, just Desmond Regamasters.

There were a couple of mx5s at zebra so I grabbed the cv bolts and the diff input bolts so hopefully they are similar enough to work on the fc so its less sketchy. I also have sorted a load of wheel nuts so there will be more than three holding the wheels on. Its a bit early but does anyone have a set of r32 gtst wheels for cheap? I've seen a couple on those wheels and like the look if them. This one on tardme looks pretty sweet imo

so. I thought we should do a weekend meet since we haven't done one in forever..... next meet Sunday the 30th

So, thought I better get myself a classic Japanese car awhile back, because new german daily driver cars are boring me lately. Was looking at old Toyotas and Datsuns etc but I decided it had to be a 70's or 80's 2 door coupe of some kind in the end. Pop up head lights would be a bonus. Got thinking about my S12 RX Silvia CA18ET notch back I owned back in the early noughties and thought hmm, that was a pretty cool, cheap fun car. Anyway started looking around in Australia and realised these things just are not about. Luckily I got a lead on a car that was not even advertised and found this : Original one lady owner Nissan Gazelle S12 , The main reason I bought this particular one, other than the fact its so clean is because it has a R180 IRS disk brake rear end and they are quite rare here, most of these sold new in Australia came with drum brake live axle rear set ups and I was not too keen on that. It has factory AC that still works, power steer etc. Really original car, factory head unit still fitted and all that stuff! Pretty hard to find in this kind of condition these days, I mean it is 30 years old! When I got it, seat covers and window shades had been fitted its whole life until now, so the interior has survived really well. Only downside to the whole deal is that its a CA20E. Automatic. Yuck I know. But at least it's been cared for and never thrashed. The Automatic can jog on though, I plan a manual conversion very shortly.

Hey OS Trying to find a replacement leg shield. Anyone seen any Suzuki F50 or F70 leg shields for sale? The one I have has been trimmed at the bottom. EBay used to sell them I'm sure. image sharecertificity.com capturecertificity.com SLURP SLURP

Neither, but now I do. Thanks for the friendly tip

I filled out the online form for getting this collected from goat, they called last night saying they would collect it today. its a bit too soon as it still needs to be moved out of the shed and I still haven't paid them to pick it up. The tow truck driver is named barry which I thought was appropiate. I should hopefully get it late next week

Yep the weather is going to be very average but all of NZ will be mocking us if we bail out because it rains.

Just run steelies and white walls.

It's exactly what the above is, the Intercity 125. Fastest diesel train in the world @ ~145mph (125mph design speed - hence the IC 125 designation) Myself I'm all about the Deltic's.... geoooogh *foam* (and the Pendolino's are pretty sweet too *schwing*)

Clint, Whats the deal with chassis mods? If I were to say, buy the back section of a chassis that is IRS, and stitch it to the rest of my chassis in my Crown wagon (talking solid chassis cars here) whats the legal requirements? I assume fish plates, but thoughts?

Haha all of that for a box of beers ! Ill take 2 Look forward to seeing if this goes hard for what it is

Probably won't bother with spacers either tbh. My priority is to get it to wof standard first anyway. I figured if I can get a set of wheels with ok tyres it's a step in the right direction

+1 just do this, easy step along the path of the process of elimination.

A bent head can be more than just, Oh, the head wont seal on the head gasket " sort of thing. Can effect valve sealing etc So I guess what i should have asked is, did the shop that machined the head also vac test the valves to make sure they are sealing? Because if they arnt, then you will have no compression,

Ditto, ^ Also Murder Train - I've got a feeling I know what you mean but more explanation please?

It's brake calliper overhaul time. I had the same problem. Freed the up by working the piston and slider a bit. Month or so down the track they seized up again. Pull the caliper to bits. Sand blast the housing and put new seals and dust boots in. Replace the pistons too if they are pitted. 2 front calipers on my crown cost about $110 with new pistons.

Those ones in your picture will be GTR wheels buuuuuuuuuuuuuddy (surely, if they're not they should be/you should get them instead). Different width and offset to GTS-t wheels.

Most likely seized slide pins. See if you can undo them. It's the two 12 or 14mm bolts top and bottom of the caliper. Be carefull, if they are completely seized you might snap them. Then it's time to find a second hand caliper.

200,000km in 41 years Not bad. Jpg Tho she's a bit like mum's dad's axe (Swapped Diff G box Head etc Body & Bottom end of Block are OEM etc Tho OCD me is not happy with the crooked 00000's Edit : they have evened out with a few more KM on the clock

Better have the coon in.

It's just like my Dad always said "be good to your Mum son and remember British cars don't work"

Oh nice thanks guys! The guy refunded me $100 because of it so that was nice of him

Damn Dan, looking really good. The low tech solution for batteries is to smear the posts in grease.

lighten it till it breaks, then make it just strong enough

Finished! Bit of machining porn for you!

The factory ECU's are shit and the were sooooooooooooooooooooo bad at flooding (from new) they had to make serious changes for the S5. I approve of the mega squirt monster J-Port turbo idea.

China IDA plz.

To continue with the theme of not finishing any of the utes sub- projects before moving on to another, today I decided to clean up and repair the leather Audi seats so they are ready for installation (even though the rest of the vehicle isn't, lol) Research was done and I did my best while also being extremely cheap. Firstly the seats were given an extremely through cleaning using an old toothbrush and soapy water to get human filth out of all the stitching, seams and cracks. Just this made a huge difference which is hard to show via pics. Before After Next I got a $6 bottle of liquid shoe polish. It is NOT like shoe nugget- this is a thin black liquid that dries and will not rub off- more of a dye. Multiple layers of this were applied to each cracked area- allowed to soak for a short while and then rubbed off with a rag (so it pretty much only remains in the cracks and damage) Before After So the cracks in the color layer are still there- they just don't stick out like they used to. Next up was this hole in the driver's side bolster. This side is pretty fucked and I always said I'd get it replaced properly....But reality says NO right now. Here's the hole. So I copied some instructional videos for $100 repair kits and made a backing patch out of vinyl. I trimmed the hole up a bit cleaner and stuffed the vinyl in there with the cloth surface facing out so the adhesive had a nice surface to bond. Next I grabbed a tube of trusty simpson panel/chassis adhesive and squeezed some out onto cardboard. I agree this is a strange choice of poo BUT in my defence- I know it sticks to EVERYTHING extremely well, it remains flexible when cured AND it is easily painted. I used a flat blade screwdriver to push glue between the vinyl and leather and pushed the leather down as hard as I could. Then I filled the depression with adhesive and smoothed it out as best I could using a rag soaked in thinners. I tried to stipple the surface so it wasn't glossy smooth. Once that was cured I used my finger to apply some cheap black paint. This was WAY WAY WAY WAY more effective than I expected and after a damn good rubbing have established it's pretty durable too! Not perfect but you wouldn't know it's there unless you look really closely! So after a through coating with leather conditioner cream here's the end result.. I'm EXTREMELY happy with how they came out

Bought some 15 inch SSR Longchamps for this about 4 months ago out of Japan. Trailed them up, pretty good fitment I then gave them to a wheel restoration place to polish up and restore as the anodized finish had gone a bit cloudy on them etc. Long story short. I started getting pretty nervous when the wheel resto shop was not returning any of my phone calls to see how they were getting on. One day I went in to see what the fuck was happening. Apparently not much at all, which I found pretty annoying after having them for 6 weeks by this stage... I have given them to someone else much more reputable now, should have them back in the next week or two.

I see where this is going