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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/13/16 in all areas

  1. gone. 2016-06-13_03-42-56 by sheepers, on Flickr
    12 points
  2. Wet ya whistle, dip ya wick.
    7 points
  3. richie is very very good at taking pictures. IMG_6716 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6743 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6760 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6875 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6848 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6974 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6889 by Richard Opie, on Flickr IMG_6786 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
    7 points
  4. Grrrrr more frustrations recently. I bought a new wideband controller (Aim LCU one) and a definitely genuine Bosch 4.9 sensor with it, hoping this would solve my problems with wideband sensors blowing up. Switched over to modelled fuel equation in the ECU, (which is awesome) and after a week or so the sensor shit itself. Blargh! So that's the 4th one, lasting less and less time each time! But I guess the good thing here is, there wasnt anything wrong with my Innovate controller so now I've got two / can sell one / datalog the daily / whatever. This wideband controller can show you the temperature that the sensor reaches, and its not getting too hot, so it was good to confirm that this wasnt the issue. So it looks like the one thing left that could possibly cause it, is having the wideband come on with the ignition key. The reason this is an issue, is that before you have started the engine, in a cold exhaust the sensor gets fully up to temperature (800deg) and then the first crank of the key sends a big woosh of cold air past it, which cracks the ceramic element in the sensor. Even worse if there's any moisture in your exhaust at the time. So the better strategy is to have the sensor only turn on when the fuel pump turns on (so only when engine running) or even more ideally, with a delay of a few seconds after engine starts. (Thanks to guys in the DIYEFI thread for pointing this out to me) I'm usually sitting uploading a new tune or whatever before starting the car, so I have been doing the worst possible thing to the sensor every single time. D'oh. So I bought another sensor (sigh) but wont install it until I've made some wiring changes. I will wire it into a relay that is then triggered by the ECU. So I can set a 5 second delay (or minimum coolant temp or whatever) on engine start before the wideband powers on. In other news I spent a bunch of time (pre 02 sensor blow up) trying to get my idle working a bit nicer. But the problem is that on my main fuel map, I've only got columns for 850rpm, 1000rpm and 1500rpm to adjust. So I decided to chop this low rpm section completely off my fuel map, and have a second fuel map that switches on below 1500rpm that has way more resolution for getting good fuel at idle. Then I've used mixture map feature to build up a table, then smoothed it out a bit and ended up looking like this. The car now idled nice and steady, deviates by say 20rpm up and down. Seems a bit more stable coming off revs too, rather than dropping rpm really low or stalling. While mucking around with this though, coincidentally or otherwise. I found that my car started making knocking sort of noises around 3000rpm. So I thought I'd turn knock detection back on and see whats up. Started building a map for knock levels, but at about 3000rpm, it would only stop knocking on cyl 3 and 4 if I reduced the timing down to 1 or 2 degrees. And it was definitely knocking, I could hear it myself, so it wasnt an issue with falsely reported knock. So I figure something physically wrong must be going on. I pulled the spark plugs out for the first time in forever, and found cyls 3 & 4 had a brown ring around the porcelain area, and all of the plugs looked a little worse for wear. (probably from multiple retunes on this engine, intentionally induced knock for setting up knock sensing, and various other abusive activities) So I ordered a replacement set of plugs, and then thought I'd have a geez at the coilpacks to see if anything's wrong. Usually they get a brown ring about half way up the plastic casing, which means they have been overheating and need to be replaced. But they all looked fine until I took the rubber boot off the spark plug end and peered down the end... Three of them look like this: And one of them looks like this, think I found the problem.... I'm surprised that the car ran on 4 cylinders at all, wonder how long it's been like this. One of the coils must have been arcing to the spark plug every time. I'm not sure which cylinder this coilpack came off though, so now I need to check for bits of spring fallen down into the cylinder on all 4. Or maybe it's been like this for ages and I've never noticed! I'm getting a full set of brand new Toyota sourced coilpacks and a set of fresh plugs, hopefully this fixes the knock issue and life is good again (with a non explodey wideband!)
    6 points
  5. Sooooo, another mitsi to add to the hoard! Discussion thread here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53153-jesses-mk1-mirage-yarns/ Saw this little gem pop up on trademe at a ridiculously low price so couldn't help myself and impulsively hit the buy now, bit of a pain being in blenheim but it was worth it! organised to shoot across on the ferry this saturday and drive it back.... has not been driven for 2 years and is dereg... what could go wrong?! Got down to blenheim about lunch time on saturday with a sack full of tools and got to work on getting it going, wouldn't start at all for ages and found no fuel getting through so blew out all the fuel lines and shot to ripco and got a new fuel pump and filter and spark plugs for the hell of it. fitted all them and she fired into life like a treat, sadly after hours of trying to get it running right it still wouldn't idle or drive, only starts and revs, fuck, thankfully my GC mate who i was staying with towed me to the ferry on sunday night when it was absolutely pissing down, couldn't see jack shit and had to use left foot for braking as my right foot had to feather the throttle to keep the car going! but alas we got it on the ferry and up to wellington and my boss picked me up at the other end with the car trailer....at midnight on a sunday. So, Cons: * Carb probably needs resealing or a rebuild but that's not a biggie * Paints faded (not in a cool patina way though) That's pretty much it, was surprised for a car that's been sitting outside for a couple years without being run aside from the engine the brakes and clutch and everything work a treat! Pros: * It's a genuine 1 old lady owner with 114,000ks on the clock * Apart from running rough it doesn't smoke at all * Body is incredibly straight and completely rust free, underside is like new thanks to what looks to be factory underseal! Plans are to get it running right, then use as a daily, then the usual things like low, gonna chuck my advans on it that were initially for my turbo mirage (this will be up for sale soon) and then later down the line engine conversion, was thinking of maybe a carby 4g15 with a few minor add ons, nothing too major Aaaaaaanyway here are some pics!
    4 points
  6. More updates on my excursions! visited hampton downs to do some skid pan work. Trying to handle the car in a tight, slow environment was very... tiring. I don't have power steering and still running the e30 4 turn lock to lock rack. Also i'm finding that i run out of lock very quickly so will need to do something about that. Despite all this I had an awesome time! Learning to drive this car *properly* is so fun. I need to attend more of these types of events and get as much seat time as possible! My car was dubbed the cone eater of the day. my front lip had suffered quite a beating haha Hence its absence Having great friends that always come to cheer me on, I had to take them all for some rides. What better way to show off my new front end setup! The more I drive this car, the more I need to change stuff. Some new bits and bobs incoming
    4 points
  7. Suited and Booted On the Startline Having a bit of sideways fun
    4 points
  8. This thing has been sitting in the shed gathering dust since Feb. Pulled it out the other weekend for a weekend away. Started first pop and ran faultless the hole time (400 odd km). Fuck I love this thing. Already planning this years christmas/new years excursion
    3 points
  9. yeah thats intense! might look into pod filters again now that i have the jets to compensate. i wonder where i will find some pilot jets for these things haha
    3 points
  10. The building in this photo is still standing. I drive past it from time to time. It's abandoned, and in a very poor state of repair. The building next to it has been recently demolished so it seemed like a good idea to get some photos before it gets pulled down. It was a fucking miserable day in Christchurch today but we still managed to get 8 Speedy Cycles together at the same time. One of them even belonged to one of the riders in the original photo. Here's some sweet old bike photos. PINE!
    3 points
  11. Goals (Not mine - just a photo someone sent me.)
    3 points
  12. so. after a BUNCH of fucking around and getting dicked for a few items that should have been covered by insurance i finally got a payout to fix my blue car. without wasting everyones time with details the result was that the insurance company would pay for a new gearbox, a secondhand engine and a few sundries. so i bought this, 2016-06-11_09-35-36 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-11_09-35-29 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-11_09-26-57 by sheepers, on Flickr 2J short block, gasket set, new oil pump and a new R154. if i hadn't of just sold the red car i wouldn't be able to afford this and i would have had to buy a second hand 1J. but i have just sold the red car so its splurge on shit time! I've also bough a new manifold which ill post some pics of when it gets here but its pretty special. now its time to put it all back together and make some mods along the way. should be interesting when its back on the dyno…….
    3 points
  13. So heres my current project 1989 Eunos roadster import - 1st year model manual windows no frills not quite oldschool Bought as a winter alternative to motorcycle - like the handling and the fit but not the lack of power in top gear or for passing Looked at lots of red ones went yeah/nah and then this popped up local and cheap Did the usual stuff to it - new soft top - better shocks lower springs new discs and pads some JDM mazdaspeed Rays wheels and scored a hardtop and some nice old made in nz autosport fixed back bucket seats So the plan is underway - 1600 motor out - 2.0 quadcam KFZE v6 from a mazda cronos 626 in slowly Plenty of these have been done worldwide and all end up being a bit different Mazda v6 onto 12mm adaptor plate onto series 1 rx7 bellhousing onto mx5 box centre and tailhousing - retains the PPF gearbox mount 626/v6 /mx5 clutch are same size splines and even pressure plate so thats easy 626 clutch fork and release bearing fits into the rx7 bell and seems to line up right Mocked up with plywood adaptor template and slung into the hole for a look at clearance Everything stock on the v6 for is for fwd only so needs chopped or thrown away for rwd setup Distributor = no way is there room back there Inlet manifold - tricky i was thinking chop back the rocker cover and mount it facing forward like the pic but its gonna be poking thru the bonnet so custom intake is looking like the way Big list of other stuff to figure out is Spacer the front subframe down off the body for sump/steering rack clearance Build a sump and oil pickup Exhaust - ebay headers then chop hell out of them to fit rwd Engine management - EMS stinger v4= hope they are not crap and will do what i need Engine mounts - mx5 lowers onto custom plates to engines - bolts holes everywhere on the block Coolant reroute Alloy radiator and mounts to suit the coolant hoses A/C = gone = easy Steering rack = depowered Driveshaft hoop needed for lvv So not quite oldschool - people either love mx5s or hate them I have read almost every interweb site relating to this swap or the mx5 or v6/mazda/ford probe/telstar/323 a few times And been picking alex Yoeddys brain for v6 swap info Not looking for crazy power but the stock v6 160hp/160lb will make the little thing fly Any discussion advice crap or otherwise welcomed Hi im Steve and this is my car build thread ...
    2 points
  14. Hi all, as you all can tell i'm new to oldschool.co.nz but I hear you're a great crowed! This is my e30 that i've owned for a few years now. Was bought with a humble m20b20 engine that one day decided it did not like to live anymore. So I was more or less forced to do a m50b25 engine swap. These pictures will span over many years and life events. I feel that I have grown a lot with this car and can look back at the decisions i've made and learn from them. These were the 1st modifications I did, it took a lot longer than it should have and caused much anguish but it was all gone when I stood back and looked at her. The Patches if primer was the cancer (rust) forming - M20b20 (2 liter straight 6) - Manual conversion using 325i getrag 260, m20 lightweight flywheel, exedy clutch - Lowering springs with koni sport adjust shocks - Front and rear 325i sway bars I drove the car around as it was getting a feel for this new to me german vehicle. I did many minor modifications I pulled the trigger on attending my 1st track event. So I bought some things to make it feel more race car. But i had purchased this car for a reason, I wanted to build a rotary e30. A 20b NA powered e30. Ohh how this was gonna change... My girlfriend at the time was getting bored of me taking photos One cold winter's night, I was on my way back from a friends house when the humble m20 had enough. Twas the night before my day at hampton skid pan I have cool friends though and had started a following of e30 friends! Richard let me use his m50b25 powered e30 for the day So after I had a hoon I had to get back to reality. No rotary build for me. I needed a new engine and I needed something that I could do in a relatively short amount of time for a "budget" build... another thing I learnt, the term "budget" is not relative when it comes to cars. But after driving the m50 powered e30 and reading many (not enough) build threads/DIYs I started my search for a M50. Marcus (you'll hear his name a lot) had received a crashed e34 525i and offered me the engine and auxiliaries for a great price, so after checking the engine over, I gave him the thumbs up. I was now the proud owner of a M50b25 (cellphone pic FTL) And after a little more reading on feedback and noticing a trend with M50b25 swapped cars, I looked into selling this engine and find a m52b28. The reason being, most that did the swap found the m50b25 to have little reward for the effort. Until one day a friend asked why i'm not going to stroker it? So I started researching high and low for options and things I should do. I decided on the 2.8 stroker mainly because I had the conrods needed. I got a phone call from my wife (oh yea i got married) that she had bought me a birthday present. F*ck Yup my wife, bless her, pretty much upped my game for me and bought me the rotating assembly from an m54b30 (with help from ray@hellbm). So I guess I was going 3 liter. At this point I said screw it and sent the e30 in for panel and paint, my thoughts were by the time the e30 was finished the engine would be finished. This ended badly for me. I was naive and had put money down before they had finished the job. That is all I am going to say about the body. On a brighter note, PARTS! The apartment we were living in was not going to do, So we moved to a place with a double garage and just bigger in general. The apartment was super cramped, this town house we moved into was bigger, had a double garage and was the exact same price in rent. Auckland FTL Progress was going smooth for the rebuild Factory hone marks FTW while that was getting sorted I started unplugging the loom and disconnecting all the water and fuel lines as well as disconnecting the driveshaft and shifter linkage, work had shut down for the end of year break. I had 3 weeks to do the swap. Later that evening we got started on pulling the boat anchor out After much twisting and turning, prying and swearing it was out. and a me in the engine bay pic while Marcus makes it clear he is tired I prepped the engine bay, gave it a clean and changed the things that needed changing for the swap. I dont have pics, but the night before we dropped the m50 in, we installed the machined lightweight m20 flywheel and a brand new 6puk solid clutch between the engine and getrag 260 gearbox. The next morning we got on to fitting the engine IN after wiring up the engine and spending a few days diagnosing a non start, SUCCESS! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vT7jQQLmbw&feature=youtu.be Between that day and present mistakes were made. I had issues left right and center. Not doing enough diagnosing and trying for the quick fix I bought a "tune" from a company in the united states that claimed to have the right chip for my car. This just made things worse. The tune was so rich averaging 10:1 all over the rev range. This chip was pretty expensive, and the car would still misfire, jerk and barely idle. It sat here for a long time. I was in the gutter, it had been 1.5 years and I couldn't for the life of me figure this car out. I had checked every sensor with a multimeter, bought some new ones just to double check, checked the coils resistances, changed ecus, checked codes. I had checked everything. Makeshift smoke tester Checking tps Double checking sensors It went up for sale, people were coming to view. I had given up on it. Marcus the beautiful yellow man came around one evening and forced me to check everything again, even though we both had gone through everything twice. So we fired her up, to get her warm and I pulled off the plastic ignitor cover... It was like a light from the car gods telling me that my pain and arguments with my wife had satisfied them and this is the cure to my cars' defiance to idle and drive... Only in the darkness we saw the light. The insulation on one of the coils had cracked, so spark was jumping out of the side of the ignitor pack to the rocker cover. I had a spare SET of coils sitting in my garage and the only reason I didn't change them over was that they measured fine. We VISUALLY inspected all the coils I had before installing my spare set. Took her out for a drive, I couldn't believe it. I had a idling, running non misfiring e30. skipping ahead to the present, the mods haven't stopped. 5 stud conversion with bigger brakes from an e46 328i installed with e46 coilovers, whiteline swaybars, an assortment of wheels, wof, regd and certified for everything. I can finally enjoy this car. I've been trying to attend every meet, every event, anywhere I can enjoy this car. Talk to people who have their own projects, their own stories. Here's to the good times Discussion Thread
    2 points
  15. Before I got the box all bolted up I gave the tunnel a quick clean up as there was 40 odd years of oil and dirt layered on it. Not that I'm composing as it certainly has held any rust off. I had a few issues with the clutch not disengaging which turn out to be that I needed a longer release bearing. Thankfully I was able to get another one fairly easy which did the trick. Here's the difference between the two Once the gearbox and motor was all bolted up and I was happy with how it was sitting I went to go put in my driveshaft. It turns out that it was over 20mm too long even though the 5 speed boxes are the same length as the 4 speeds. The previous gearbox mount had the gearbox hanging much lower, so low that the heater outlet on the back of the head was smashing into the firewall. As the engine and gearbox were on such an angle the driveshaft just fitted with the old setup. Luckily my old man is a fitter so I got him to shorten up the driveshaft by 25mm. One interesting thing was that this driveshaft had already been shortened. This picture below shows what my old man found when he parted of the old weld and yoke from the driveshaft. It turns out insulation tape can be used for spacing the difference between two different pipe sizes. This would probably explain the terrible vibrations I was getting a 50kph
    2 points
  16. I got this old girl out of the shed last week I felt really bad about this next bit, I've had this bike a really long time... No wonder it was so bloody heavy https://www.facebook.com/ecovolis/videos/1205497879470106/ Just in prototype form at the moment. Seems to work ok but fucking hard to ride!
    2 points
  17. You may need to up the pilot. Set it to idle with the throttle stop screw, then look for highest idle turning the air screw in and out. I think generally 1-1.5 turns out from bottomed is ideal, if you find best idle less than 1 turn out go for next larger pilot, more than 2 turns out go for next smaller. Two strokes are crazy with the jetting increases after pipes added etc, my RD has 110 mains stock and without changing the emulsion tube and drill the air jet I'd be looking at over 300, with the new tube my new starting point for jetting is 220
    2 points
  18. **INCOMING 2 STOKE SHARNS** so my jets turned up from aliexpress. these are hex heads, standard was a round head. slapped one in and wouldnt fire at all, hmmm. assumed the jets themselves were too long compared to standard, then removed the washer underneath the jet, and boom she fired. so much tang so standard is a 92.5, and the guy who designed the chamber runs a 102.5. massive! mind you, that is with carbon reeds, electronic ignition and a oversized piston, so i thought i wouid keep it tame with a 95 to begin with. just let it idle cos way too wet to road test, and throttle response was much nicer than standard, still spluttery as hell. went up to a 98 this morning and took her for a spin, forgot how loud it is and proceeded to receive all the bad looks from old wimmin walking dogs. when cold, its still spluttery as hell. takes a good minute of riding till it opens up completely, then the powerband is lush. inspected the plug, nice and brown around the spark, however the outside of the plug, inside the thread etc is covered in unburnt fuel. i expect this to be too rich at idle, but adjusting mixture screw leaves it idling really low and about to die. up the pilot jet perhaps? EDIT: needle clip is raised one level, so dropped slightly tl;dr: minor victory, still have not won the war sharn away
    2 points
  19. An udder week Firstly super thanks to beaver, who was bored so gave me a hand with a few things today. Anyway been a bunch more cleaning and painting and messing around. not much more painting to do, just wrinkle finish the top of the intake, but, really need to get my inner guards painted. keep tossing up between spraying them with some cans and hope they turn up ok, or paying some painter for a perky to use some of the black chassis paint we have kicking around work either way I'm getting to the point where something needs to happen sooner than later, but yeah, also got the ECU mounted, with a lovely bracket beaver fabbed up, and wired in the vac solenoid for the intake flappers. Anyway, fun. Not sure how this week is going to go. have dinner out two nights this week which cancels out how two nights of progress but its worth it.
    2 points
  20. so its looking a bit sad now. got the dirty lpg tank out and tail lights ect . floors don't look in to bad a shape after the carpet being removed. got to the body bolts and took them out and still doesn't want to come of the chassis
    2 points
  21. Taupo Bound Must be in the right place Scrutineering time All set and all stickered ! Ready to Race 2016 Taupo Tarmac 2wd Rally
    2 points
  22. This post has: No Graphs No long paragraphs on boring topics JUST DOORT NOISES New PB of 1.21.7
    2 points
  23. Thought I might as well finally make a build for my car. I bought this MX5 as a rolling shell to replace my one which I wrote off at a drift day. Purchased as a rolling shell, the paintwork was pretty rough, had a cracked screen, no interior except a dash and steering column. First job was to get the windscreen removed so i could get a spare one installed. After removing the dash to get access i cut the screen out using a stanley knife then discovered why it had cracked. Found a small rust patch going up the entire side of the windscreen, so had to grind that out and prep it before getting AALAWS to install the new screen. Next thing was to swap all the rear panels, polybushed arms and the 7" torsen diff. Then was on to removing the engine and gearbox (Standard 1600 with 6 puk clutch and 5 speed) after cutting out the damaged section of chassis to make things easier. While the motor was out I took the opportunity to install the turbo drain. More to come, just trying to keep posts shortish
    1 point
  24. oh so you saw those dutch weirdoes riding theirs too
    1 point
  25. Interesting few weeks messing with the carbs, had issues with cylinders not doing much on idle, pulling plug leads didn't change anything. I tried all sorts of fiddling looking for manifold leaks but couldn't track it down. Guessing this was connected to the idle adjustments not doing much on the same cylinders I pulled the jets for the 100th time but this time flushed the passages resulting in near instant success, much happiness! Keeping track of fuel use I'm getting 250-280km/40L tank around town, that equals the open road use pre head gasket, need to find time for an out of town trip and hopefully be back to 400km/tank open road. I have suspicions the pump jets are a little rich from the way it hesitates at low revs, I'll give them a tweak and see how it responds. A few weeks back a differential air pressure sensor turned up from ali express, i've had it running on the work bench and but have waiting on a screen to also arrive so I can hook it up in car to balance the carbs, bit more hi-tech than a clear pipe filled with oil i've used in the past (and quite likely less effective). Today, still waiting on the screen I decided stuff it, lets just do it with the computer: Bet thats a sight not ever seen before, tuning a twin carb Lada with a computer! Things didn't go too well, with the sensor hooked up to the ports on carb #1 during the first run readings were full scale each way due to the pulses from each cylinder, to fix this I sampled at a higher rate and played with a time average over a set number of samples, this smoothed things out slow enough I could read directly off the screen. Opening a balance screw right out increased the pressure value while turning it right in decreased. Assuming this may have been a fluke fluctuation I tried again to the same result, bonus! I gently adjusted things to get a mid range value and closed the vacuum port only to find it had a residual leak, with darkness falling I've left it for now, but will fix the leak, re-test and hopefully confirm my balance made with the tube & oil method (which should be near perfect) If the screen ever turns up I plan on making a simple bar graph to show imbalance between the ports which should be pretty cool!
    1 point
  26. I Suggest you go to Emmersons new brewery and have some beers from the Mini Bar. Indiana Jones has the hookups
    1 point
  27. Late to the party... This was the norm in v8 supercars before they moved to the IRS they have in the new spaceframe cars. from HRT.
    1 point
  28. mayte, If I put it on tv my phone will never stop ringing
    1 point
  29. Haha good point will have to pack my marino undies around my cans. These goodies just arrived yeah yeaaaah! Bring on the electrickery!
    1 point
  30. Created a makeshift paint booth and gave some love to the sub-frame and various steering components. Looking much better. Getting hyped for the rebuild!
    1 point
  31. Not much time this weekend, had a footy road trip, but did make up a jig to hold the trans on my bike lift. Coupla bits of waste ply and some 45 x 19 moulding... and this is shaped to fit the pan, weight bearing on the bolts around the edge... And she sits beautifully, should make it real easy to mate up to the engine... Too hungover to do anything else, but getting there...
    1 point
  32. Finally after moving all my cars into a workshop and not a 40ft container i can get some work done after a slow 9 months of 40ft dungeon hell. Car will be going for a WOF next week and should make it to hamner this year despite being a year behind schedule.
    1 point
  33. Restored the Right Front Wheel today. Spent about 2hrs on it and I think it came up really nice. I decided to paint the inner sections of this one. I used engine enamel silver (hard wearing) and clearcoated it. The face of the rim was sanded with multiple different grits of wet & dry sandpaper, and buffed up with some polish and "silvo". I also gave the wheel well a scrub and a quick coat of matte black to bring it back to life and prevent rust. Hope to get started on the rear wheels tomorrow. Once the wheels and wells are done I'll move onto the engine bay. -Jack
    1 point
  34. Got my manifold back and sitting on the car which got me pining. Started fitting the body looms back in the car then found that the drive shaft I gave away was the one I had set up for the car and forgot I removed it so that sucks. Also fitted up a steering wheel from an unknown year corona coupe (gift from my cuzzy) which looks good.
    1 point
  35. I would greatly appreciate it if the fuckwits bringing these pieces of shit into the country were shot in the face.Fuck these cars are the biggest ballaches to deal with.
    1 point
  36. I was in a mower shop recently when an old boy pulled up in a 911 SC, he then pulled a grubby old weedeater out of it and walked into the shop, no drop cloths or fucks given.
    1 point
  37. in more exciting go fast news OS's resident GC neal / khamal / threeonthetree just collected a second hand but barely used 5.1:1 CWP for me. Same as deeeeeeeeze nuts Hello 4200RPM at 100kmph haha, i actually might use 5th gear in competition now.
    1 point
  38. proper job buddy. You deserve a pie. Not just any dried up old meat sack from the servo warmer mind you, a pudding pie. With ice cream.
    1 point
  39. spent all that effort getting rid of a lamp post at your house, then build one at your new house
    1 point
  40. 1 point
  41. Driving with the economy meter is interesting! Basically you'll be driving along fairly normally at say 70kph, the needle will be on say 7k on the tacho. as you slowly accellerate, the needle will drop and drop, and then when you get to a certain point it just stops and doesnt go down anymore. If you keep accellerating from there, the needle starts going back up. So once you get to that low point, you back off the gas to hold that speed, and the needle will drop down to say 2krpm or 3krpm. Whether you're on a hill, a downwards slope or whatever. Within the space of about 10 seconds you can find the most economical load and rpm combo which is pretty cool. It's amazing how deviating just a few kph either way of that point takes away economy really quickly. I found that my throttle was quite jumpy when trying to fine tune that needle angle, so I have revised my e-throttle curve to be even less sensitive below 70% throttle. I might setup a second throttle map so that if you ever go above 6000rpm, it will start a timer and switch to the "race" throttle map which is linear. Then if you havent gone over 6000rpm again in the space of a minute or something like that, it goes back to the mushy throttle. So congratulations to me, I've just figured out how to make e-throttle as unresponsive and mushy as OEM cars, the thing that everyone hates about it hahaha.
    1 point
  42. How's this going? Saw on in the weekend at the Trentham Swap Meet - had the barry's attention captivated.
    1 point
  43. more of this, 2016-04-24_10-11-19 by sheepers, on Flickr resulted in more progress. namely fixing the ever shit handbrake mounting plate. celicas came from the factory with this bit fucked. I've never seen one that wasn't rooted. anywho, i welded some bits of flat bar into the floor to give it some strength and stop the handbrake from coming out of the floor. 2016-04-24_11-26-35 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-04-24_11-28-28 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-04-24_01-15-49 by sheepers, on Flickr there was also a massive hole cut in the floor for some reason so i made a panel that i can then attach a boot to to cover it up. 2016-04-24_05-10-57 by sheepers, on Flickr the other things i did today include welding up a small hole in the exhaust, cutting the rear muffler off to see how it sounded (loud, very loud) and changing the oil in the gearbox. yes, i changed the oil in the gearbox. i replaced the air that had previously been used to lubricate the gears with oil which has been a massive step forward in shift feel and quietness. i recommend oil in gearboxes, not air.
    1 point
  44. I thought i'd bombard this thread with more pics (when is there enough pics though?). As some of you may have seen the video in the previous post of my 1st time at pukekohe race track! This was an awesome experience for me, I found where my limits ended as a driver (where I ran out of balls) and also things that weren't quite right about the car. Our spots for the day Lucky for me, I had an awesome workforce to help with everything from chocking my car after every run to tips of what I should and shouldn't do on track. One of the BMW race series drivers (Raewyn) decided to humor our efforts as well haha Like I mentioned earlier, I had my fair share of problems throughout the day. 1st issue while blasting down the back straight (everything feels slower on the track for some reason haha) when my lovely wife noticed the abnormal reading on the wideband AFR gauge. Obviously assuming the worst, my stomach was in my throat as I limped back to pit lane. Car sputtering and misfiring. To my relief when opening my bonnet, my intake elbow had popped off . A quick turn with a screw driver and we were ready to go again! Unfortunately not many photos of my E30 doing werk. One I did find of me chasing Raerae while a holden who almost had a deep and meaningful relationship with a subaru followed. (Not sure about this front bumper setup) Marcus had his own fair share of problems. His low offset and wide tire combo were having a good time with the arches, so out came the hammer. I could see that he wasn't very happy about his brand new falkens getting rekt by his guards, but not one to shy away from a photo opportunity... Did I mention this was all on valentine's day? Haha Things I would definitely change is the stiffness on the rear. I had wound up my rear shocks to max stiffness before the track day thinking it would be a great idea. Hell no. It made the front sweeper and the part over the hill very scary as the car would "step out". I also ran into cooling problems after 5-6 laps, maybe because the rep m3 front has no air ducts for airflow? But i'll upgrade the radiator as well. I need to sort out traction. Maybe related to the shocks? Either way an LSD will be a great upgrade. Here is a video from the day with my buddy Daniel K from Corsbe - Big thanks to all my friends that came to the track day just for support and banter! Hopefully not too much of a read! Ill leave you with one last picture of something we can all appreciate Visit JWNZ for more photography goodness! Website: JWNZofficial.com Instagram: @jwnzofficial Email: JWNZofficial@gmail.com
    1 point
  45. So to give an update over the last 4 months she's been a busy time for me working on my house and JZA70 not to mention xmas, new years and a few trips up north but walah progress has been made
    1 point
  46. Thanks Felixx. I'm not sure why? I haven't gone anywhere. Anyway. I made this swing bike for the "kids" last weekend. They don't like riding it though. Just as well I do. @Mof Here's one I made earlier. I have bits to make a larger one by the garage door.
    1 point
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