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I never realised Mazda 3s were so enormous.

new cam turned up joker didn't include my cam thrust plate so can't press the gear onto this one 'til that turns up sadly. ballz

worn door hindges from a constant stream of hotties getting in and out / Joes Mum

Man, that AMG's sweet. And has more power than Aston. No point having a daily you can't/won't park anywhere. Also, any ding is more justification to repaint. Part of the reason I took the photo was for potential insurance implications too.

You are brave parking that anywhere near other humans.

sweet as, chur. i see a bit of nothing nothing frameless doors in my future

Perseverance wins! picture uploader

Never heard of any of my mates Ferraris blowing their gearboxes. This could be due to other reasons though.

Whilst the bootlid is ongoing at work, I thought I'd attack the front end at home. In it's past, someone had bonded in original steel grille and side-vents. These have to go as I'm looking for the smooth look like Blair's car. Fortunately the rust had loosened all of the filler, and within an hour it looked like this: Next job will be fill the holes. I already have a plan!

Swoon, bistro will buy it for my birthday

Roof chop it. You'll have to redo the frames anyway.

Last weekend I picked up this slammin' parts car. Beneath the rough spots it is actually a decent car with minimal rust, and it has a full black interior including leather. So most of that including the carpet will be going into mine. I will be keeping my Mtech seats however. Yesterday I started fitting my M5 replica front lip. Test fit: Paint: On: I also swapped the good fender from the parts car onto mine. It's actually in better condition than the last one was before the hit and the color matches close enough for now. Nevermind the sagging bumper, I will be putting my new one on shortly too. Started cleaning up some of the black interior parts from the parts car to go into mine: I'm going to be fitting the non AC center console from the parts car, just need to make a panel to fit my radio and I'm going to incorporate a space for some gauges while I'm at it: Also this arrived today: After a very long and tiresome search, I should have a single mass flywheel in the next couple days. So with any luck, the car will be going again by next week. Then I can cruise around and show off all my nice new parts.

Like not having mates?

So I pull up into a carpark somewhere today, 4.1l per 100km for the trip so I'm just sitting there being a smug prick like I've just saved the world or something. Parked up with my window down. Some young random labourer dude in the van next to me caught a wiff of my smug stench and goes: "That is the gayest car I have ever seen" I cracked up, surprisingly it's the first time I've been randomly insulted about driving an old ladys car. He looked so disgusted hahahaha. If only he knew... IF ONLY HE KNEW!!!

Hi, In July 2011 we picked up a 1970 Simca Station wagon in Auckland. We bought the Simca of TM, or actually, I bought the car for my son Quinn (12). Before we immigrated from Holland 3 years ago, I said to my boys: If we are in New Zealand I buy you a car when you become 16. But this Simca, we couldn't let it go, now it's his. I was a Simca enthusiastic in Holland, and I have had a similar model over there. But anyway, we left at 4.00AM from Napier, and we arrived at 8.00PM back in Napier. Colin a friend was so kind to lend his truck to tow the car trailer. Our main goal is to get the Simca on the road. A quick view learned that the jack point were rotten (common with Simca) and the breaks need a overhaul, at least they were jamming.

So now I reg'd my 121 I have been having some serious thoughts/beers over what to start next. For economy and theoretical ease of completion I decided to resurrect my 929.. some history ensues. I bought this in early 97 after spotting it down the back of Canterbury Radiators on Tuam st (chch) and bought it for the pricey sum of $300 de-reg'd. I then sold my poo brown (bracken) 78 wagon to fund the rebuild only to see it a year later at the local wreckers.. boo. Anyway, the car was originally a tan gold but I had BRG on my mind, more specifically mx5 racing green. So I bare metaled it and found a completely straight, rust free body, the doors had some holes along the bottom, a mate gave me some good rx4 doors, I think the bonnet had some issues but, cocanes a hell of a drug.. The same mate helped me prime, fill and prep the car for paint which was completed at some truck painters place in wigram for $150 in enamel BRG (cheap). I had also built a cam'd MA a year previously which I installed with a 626 five speed. The whole thing was completed including exhaust and new 235 yoko 352's for about $1800.. not bad for a bum on the dole I thought.. just before paint.. don't have any finished shots other than a speed camera shot and one at my sisters place.. I was supremely stoked, for three weeks drove around accepting the looks and the nods like a true try hard rotor head and then... Had a bit of a booboo.. got a bit of school mum road rage at the intersection of rutland st and innes road (rugby park in chch) an intersection that I had had trouble at before but clearly not learnt from. Had a van blocking my lefthand view, saw a rav4 take a gap and gunned it only to be t boned by a mondeo. I was fairly heartbroken to say the least, lots of drinking completed my day of despair. Luckily I had been hit straight on the rear wheel and the diff took a fair amount of the impact snapping the nearside leaf spring and popping the propshaft, somehow the wheel itself escaped unharmed.. My sisters bf knew a panel beater and the car eneded up about 5 doors down from where I bought it. $1500 later and a donor rx4 quarter and I was back on the road.. fucken PHEW! It had a fairly hard next 2 years then blew a head gasket and sat from then on while I pursued further automotive acquisitions. When I look back I can't for the life of me figure out why I stopped driving it cos it then went into storage and subsequently lapsed reg while I was overseas.. Duh!.. When my cheap storage failed in 2012 it sat in the drive out here in brotown under a shit tarp and suffered a little paint wise. Tried to sell it for 6 months but couldn't get enough, glad I didn't as it was the one thing I knew I'd regret.. fuck family pressure. So I then got serious and bought one of those heavy duty uv resistant tarps two cans of fishoil liberally applied and stuck it out the front where it has done surprisingly well given the conditions, whoever said cars don't do well under tarps.. well.. something. Really all it needs is a respray (will try for the original colour), engine and a cleanup and it should be back on the road soon enough. I'll clean up the suspension while I'm at it, it has 121 struts coz of the vented discs so I might have to revert back to standard if anyone has some lying around (Dane) Yes this is an early 4, but it will be the look I'm going for.. albeit with some early 626 steelies..

Went and had a gander at this and put a deposit on it about a month ago, and finally organised myself to go get it yesterday. Formerly owned by ESKIN8R who i think originally chopped it up and put it together and then Zebra Dude, who got it painted and sorted the draw bar etc. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/26688-zebra-dudes-esky-van-trailer/ (photos are down) I knew i was in the right place! (you will know their works by the trail of bodies) Needed the lights wiring up, + some beers and Ben didnt finish till 6, so by the time it was ready to roll it was pretty late! Ran the gauntlet no troubles at all, and tows well, will go even better with some weight in it. I also managed to convince Ben to through in some schwweeeet rims. In case you are not a wheel aficiondo, they are * 13 x 6JJ * CHEVIOT * TURBO * Anyway today started getting into it, cut down the roofies from the van ( ) hung a gas bottle from a handy attachment and pondered on how to cram a LWB sized vans worth of camping stuff into half an Escort... Solution - Make the small thing bigger with Extentions! Roll * 13 x 6JJ * CHEVIOT * TURBO * to entice only the hottest classiest babes into the stabbin cabin. Need to buy some hardware to mount the doors then start thinking about the interior. Its basically going to be a bedroom for the boy + bathroom and kitchen that I can tow with the 2300, 125 or my daily

Someone has set up the forum software to replace l v v t a with aliens. Funny funny.

Ben? B series Hondas can only be Ben haha I remember him from uni

could be the pully on the crank has worn out, the rubber that holds it together can wear and then the belt tension holds it together most of the time, but under certain loads it can't keep up? something to check...

Bahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha love it

also I'll have a 186 up for grabs soonish. wants a bit of love but could be an ideal recipient for a tart up if you wanted to not take your whip to bits before you get it sorted

In the HCTM it says the pedal has to be a single piece of material (except for pad), with any welded bosses to be fail-safe - i,e, braking is still possible if weld breaks. Any sort of offset system requires written approval from the TAC. I might have to deal with this too, unless I get a special pedal machined from a pig lump of metal (which would be $$$). Have you got a pic of what you are doing?

Oh man I would be super keen for a holiday to Nelson! <3 South Island. Do you have a spare injector, the same as what's in your car? If so, send it up! and I'll test it for you.

So how many pieces of toast, cups of tea/coffee and cake will it cost to have you stay here a weekend and check my dead times. I can show you the chouse photography locations too.

A couple of badass shopping trollies you have there fine sir.. It amazes me some of the more mainstream euro stuff can be had so cheaply - the original owners must have experienced eye watering levels of depreciation, like a 2010 AMG C63 wagon for 40K (dropping a cool 130K from the purchase price in 6 years). http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/mercedesbenz/auction-1080320325.htm

I dont think it really matters, because the fuel pressure reg will hold at a particular pressure so you never get it running too high. As Speeno says some Nissans etc run a resistor in the fuel pump circuit to run the pump at half voltage when under low load. My fuel pump whines like crazy when I had the car set to ~80psi, it was the restriction to flow that cause the pump to load up. Now running at 60psi and it's much happier. If I ran my engine at ~40psi I'd probably see consistent fuel pressure at a lower pump voltage again. As it might need to drop to 7 volts or whatever before it drops below 40. In my mind though the #1 thing relating to idle and fuel is dead times, because the actual deadtime is a huuuugggeee part of the total injector opening time. As in, deadtime could be 5x the actual time that fuel actually comes out while the injector is open. If your deadtime is inaccurate then if you've got any temp compensation etc going on, your fuel at idle is gonna be a mess. My idle has tidied itself up hugely since having accurate deadtimes.

Blardy modern carparks are narrower than they used to be. All about jamming as many cars all up in that bitch.

Terrible timing! If wasn't balls deep in house build I would of bought it

might just put this here for anyone keen aswel Engine is sweet, tho has been sitting for awhile unused but never gave me any issues. was rebuild at some stage as far as receipts go Will need cert for drop spindles and custom mounting of the type 1 beam in the the type 3 floor pan. Rust wise is sweet, has been dry stored for the last 4 plus years, have a full set of quarter panels front and rear. will need a steering damper put back in, sun roof is still smashed and is running a poly carb replacement at the moment. cant really think what else.

$35 fuel preasure sensor wired into the ECU and then you can check/log to your hearts content fitted one in mine but more for over pressure, not low pressure. China 044 pumps way too much for my little 60hp KP haha. Makes all sorts of weird noises though, always sounds like its cavitating or something but seems weird. Have been thinking of removing the pre pump filter to see if that changes anything... Might now flow enough or something? Fuel pressure is sweet though so im not too worried

Low fuel pressure from low voltage definitely changes things. That's where I start to see the deadtimes being way different to factory figures, because in a real life scenario when your injectors have 8v so does your fuel pump so the pressure drops. Below about 10volts on my car, and you start seeing fuel pressure taper off. Wideband fuel trim cant really do much at idle sort of speed, I dont particularly trust my widebands readings at idle anyway. Because the motor will be running visibily rich out of the exhaust but it'll show me everything is dandy at the wideband. Maybe I've got a small air leak somewhere. My new wideband controller should hopefully be here tomorrow, woohoo. Feels like flying blind having gone a few weeks without one when I want to tinker with stuff haha. Looking forward to having a bit of a tinker with injection timing at cruise conditions. Also now that my deadtimes are good. Seeing if my outer injectors now do anything useful below ~5500rpm.

Hahaha hahaha nope!

I'm Wrapped Roof done last night...looking great thanks to Matt @ Tri-Signs. He has taken the arches away to do today, get them back tomorrow, so more photos soon.

only one way to find out

The fact I'd be getting a bargain as well as fuel economy, adds an explosive exponential growth to the smugness. It's hard to know exactly how smug because I'd probably have passed out by that point.

Found this on Facebook - I am simply lost for words how much it has deteriorated since selling it almost five years ago.

get some 'universal tractor oil' off them and run it in EVERYTHING like a true farmer too

oh yeah I chucked those widened s1 steelz and crossply muds on for a lol. looked pretty staunch. same width as the ones I roll now and I didn't really want the extra offset making the steering even cuntier so I didn't run with them. plus the tyres were cracked and i didn't want them esploding on me 750r16 radials on stock LWB rims. 750-16 crossply wranglers on widened SWB series one rims.

turns out the engine in the series one was/is a 173. Whipped some shit off it and it's definitely had a recent rebuild. bores are a wee bit glazed looking and had a bit of greasy carbon on the piston tops. I imagine the glazing comes from running low load high RPM as is often done when doing road driving in old series landys. Once I get it together I'll chuck a decent trailer on the thing and give it a good pull up through vinegar hill and shit. Didn't blow any smoke so I reckon it'll come right. Not really any evidence of blowby etc from the underside so we'll see. +.50mm pistons and new bearings, alloy timing gears etc. cam looks a bit worn so will bin that head hadn't really had a birthday - needed new exhaust valves and springs are a bit soft, guides are a bit pooey. I blame the carbon on this . gave the head to ol' jim and he's taking forever.... he's giving the ports a bit of a clean up/deshrouding the valves, sorting the springs/exh valves etc He's also built up a late red 202 carb for it or some shit. need to order a camshaft. I don't want a 'regrind' so will prolly get one smashed out of a new billet off auckland camshaft services. lpg/towing 'high torque' type should free up a few neddys and make it happier to sit at high rpm lol. will order a new alternator closer to the time of engine fitment (100A one from ashdowns) and a few other bits and pieces. I was reluctant to use the 173 when I found it wasn't what it was meant to be but they're not that far down on power compared to a 186, plus I was always happy with the amount of power the 186 made, just it was getting tired and the cam thrust plate etc i think is worn causing camshaft walk/unable to get the timing nice so it pinks like fuck. should go good once it's in. Need to replace the input shaft bearing in the trans too so I haven't been using the thing for the last couple of months until I get the cylinder head back and can proceed with the engine swap. I stripped the series one of anything decent (fuck all) and sold the wheels/tyres to a joker that'll be using them on his farm landy (10km commute to his cowshed on closed roads then paddock work etc) which recovered the cost of the vehicle. rest went to scrap - chassis broke in half when they forklifted it off my trailer. lolz.

Got a WoF on this the other day, expires at the end of April 2019! Also started boxing in the draw bar for more storage, which it definitly needs now that I sold my van today ( ) so all the camping stuff from it ended up in this. Errrm, yeah. we might need to travel a bit lighter now I already cut down the sink (mrs wears contacts so its a prereq) just need to fit the 20l water container up and under some how some way (keep coming up with funky ass shit. like every single day). I think it will work ok if i strap it up like a fuel tank filled via the filler with a drain tap on it. So drawbar storage - this is made partly from the bed from the just sold van, which was made from the false floor of the van we had before that and partly from left over 18mm ply from the Blimp trailer me and Euron8 made. See it WILL come in handy one day! Will probably stick some lino on the inside of this just cause. Heavy stuff (like a 12v battery for a stereo, lights and phone charger), jack and such will need to go in the false floor of the van itself, to minimise load on teh tongue, so this really only for light stuff like wetties and whatever. I will fashion a special stick of the appropriate lenght to allow it to sit level as a bench top as well. Closed up the awkward gaps at the sides with the old mud flaps from the van, should also assist with aero as the front is pretty much dead flat otherwise, and ive at least boxed out the massive 'air intake'. The flaps mean its also not fully air tight to help vent the battery a wee bit, but it will only be charged at home on the charger so that shouldnt be to much of an issue I will try to get the spare up underneath once ive figured out the water situation, and put a bike rack where the spare mount is currently on the front i reckon. Just need to go somewhere in it now!

This afternoon, after ferrying the sheepers down to Hamilton I set about modifying the dash cluster to accomodate my new instruments - yes that's right, I did a thing on this myself. IMG_4941 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Starting point was this factory flat front KP61 tacho dash cluster - I wanted to cut up one of these rare, hard to find examples because it meant I could install the tacho I wanted and still retain the OEM fuel gauge and temp (temp not so much of an issue but anyway) which you'll note are included in a combination gauge on the non-tacho cluster that my car came with. IMG_4961 by Richard Opie, on Flickr On the speed side, I wanted to install this Stack ST3801 speedo - it reads an optimistic 260km/h so I'm sure further developments will be needed to ensure I can take this car off the clock. IMG_4963 by Richard Opie, on Flickr For keeping an eye on revs, I have always wanted to pop a Stack tacho into a car - these remind me of watching the start-up montages of Bathurst years past, you know the one... the grand marshal instructs 'drivers start your engines,' then you get a montage of Larry, Brocky, Tricky Dicky et al. pressing the go buttons and more than one Stack tacho leaping into life as the engine fired. Anyway, I wanted that. You'll note the instruments don't match. Weird yes, I dunno. But I have a stack (lol) of other auxiliary gauges I am using which match the speedo in terms of bezel design, but the tach is the odd one out in the Stack range. Anyway I digress.... IMG_4988 by Richard Opie, on Flickr When you try to fit the gauges into the cluster, this happens. The speedo is slightly too large in both bezel and body diameter, and both of them foul on mouldings behind them. IMG_4959 by Richard Opie, on Flickr This is why. There's all sorts of annoying bits of plastic and shit going on behind the instruments. Suffice to say, it needed to GTFO so I went and invested in a variable speed Dremel and some tool bits for it. IMG_4997 by Richard Opie, on Flickr And then I started mangling. IMG_5006 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Until eventually, I had carefully hacked the back of each side out and they were roughly (literally!) ready to accept their new instrument overlords. IMG_5026 by Richard Opie, on Flickr The tacho fit into the fascia perfectly as it was - you'll note in this shot, there is a flat on the bottom of the aperture for the speedo. That needed to be ground out circular to accept the main body of the gauge, but the bezel itself was still too large to fit in the supplied space. IMG_5055 by Richard Opie, on Flickr So I did what any sane person would do, and employed my newly acquired Dremel skills of precision destruction to chop the bottom off the speedo. Which ended up being more than just the bezel. But it worked a treat - this is just after the initial cut, and some sanding with a fine sanding drum at a low speed finished it off nicely, but I think it might be prudent to fill it with urethane or something similar just to stop any dust getting in. IMG_5050 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Went over the edges of the gaping chasms I'd created with a burr to tidy them all up, radius the corners and remove any sharp edges. IMG_5066 by Richard Opie, on Flickr Then secured each of the instruments into it's new home! I won't be able to reinstate the clear plastic cover over over these two - they sit proud of the mating surface for that cover, but also the fact the instruments have lenses of their own means it results in some weird/annoying reflections. I only need to cover the temp and fuel gauges, so will sort out some kind of clear plastic to glue over the top of them and it should nestle nicely in the factory location. Thanks for looking! Discussion in signature if you want to yarn about it.

Not too much happened recently but for the sake of documentation I'll add it here. I picked up one of those C-Tek chargers which worked wonders on one of the old batteries I had in storage but no bueno on the Skyline one so I need to buy a new battery for that. No major, they're around I just haven't got to doing it. A couple of small rubber bits did arrive though the other week so got to installing them. Nice new rubber seal around the bottom of that cowling. Can see a bit of rust on either end of it as well as perhaps some quick repair done. These are common places for rust on Hakos so I suspect when the time comes I'll have to pull all that down and repair it properly. Repair parts are available for these areas. And these little rubber caps for the wipers were busted as you can see in the top picture. Replaced as per bottom picture. Yep, thrilling stuff.. but it keeps the momentum going I guess.

One of the few classic Jappa car shows around these ways, it's still a growing scene but hoping more similar events take place in the near future. Cheers for looking, Tai

Petes career advice: Sportscars, not Auckland houses.

Oh, and the car decided to christen the garage floor after sitting for a coupla weeks.. Better check that out on the weekend. Trans oil level seemed fine (if not possibly too high on the dipstick), so perhaps (hopefully) just the gasket needs replacing (or bolts tightening up).

Alternator bearings? belt idler being gay? does it do it at varing revs when its still? Has it been lowered in its life? My shuttle has eaten the rubber vibration dampers on the cv shaft where it hits the chassis? one of these could be loose or something?

Discussions please.. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45150-yetchhs-aforementioned-77-929-coupe/