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About drftnmaz

  • Birthday October 26


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  1. yup because vtnz charge $70? per wof so have already factored the constant audit costs into it, most garages only charge ~half that so have to play the balancing game in order to stay in business... and a 18month audit saves you alot compared to a 12month audit! Each to their own, I hope you all drive safe cars and personally don't mind where or how you get your wofs, there is good and bad stories wherever you go! I'm just trying to share some incites
  2. yup I fail 95% of my wofs first time, on purpose... the only car that passes first time is my 2018 corolla, because it should. Having worked at a wof place as a young fulla I learnt how the system worked and how the audits went, and once you get in the bad books with them then the audits get super picky and more frequent, then it costs you lots more to undertake these audits than rechecks ever would. It's a numbers game, and it's played by computers and controlled by bureaucrats, not mechanics, so you gotta play along if you want to be part of it.
  3. For actual damage yes... but any smart wof place will fail you first time every time because it makes them look better in the review system (looks dodgy if you pass everyone first time, but looks good if you are failing 95%), so leaving a obvious fail is the smartest move, like a bulb etc that doesn't work, or they will fail you on something silly to make up for it like wiper blades
  4. I normally just fix and paint to a good standard and go back, only time I've ever had the wof guy say i need a report was the one time i asked if i needed a report... so i think it's one of those things where IF you ask then it backs them into a corner and the goto is "get a report" Did a few patches on a old hiace a month ago, painted etc, went back to VTNZ and no drama. But my friend in Pukekohe was has lots of trouble with VTNZ there and had to get reports every time, I'm starting to think he asked the question so they told him it's needed, personally I'd never choose to goto VTNZ.
  5. ok fair enough, if you can get the manifold to line up and seal then it's a solid start, (but easy enough to build a J pipe from factory manifold and fit turbo in a more suitable place? like the boot? haha) the ford turbos hold their value so prob $600-1k to get a genuine garrett so it might be out of the budget for such a build? I don't have much experience with china turbos but i'd say any of the 'GT35's with big ex housings would work well (ford has 1.06 rear housing from factory) I'll keep a eye out on trademe and next time i'm out bulk buying turbos and see if i spot anything to suit a 4L As for Vac retard of the timing under boost, i have also heard of people doing this but it can be hard to find a multi-direction diaphram to suit, early non computer turbo stuff would be the go for this, cordia/charade carb turbo etc, have heard the mazda b6t (even tho it's efi) may have but never checked.
  6. I'd use a barra turbo and port the gate hole a little, they have factory 5psi gate actuator and sorta suit the engine size, just the manifold could be a pain... Then malpassi low pressure rising rate reg Electric fuel pump and large return line (often we would use ballast resisters to drop voltage to 10V to reduce efi pump flow to suit low presure) Carb needs mod to equalize pressure in fuel bowl under boost I'd use a BOV, even a factory one, recycle it if you don't like the noise biggest problem IMO is timing, without being able to control timing then you have to pick the best compromise, which in turn slowly wears out your engine, but this may takes years to wear so often not mentioned... barras have 2 versions of turbo, a 3576 and a 3582, I'd prefer the 3582 for a 4L(as it has a 60mm inducer) but If you wanna use a china turbo then post up ones your looking at and i'll have a look through them
  7. drftnmaz

    diesel spam

    Generally speaking the more you advance the pump the faster/easier a diesel will start, and louder it knocks/ignities... you really notice it on some engines like ford transits, dunno how easy it is to adjust on your engine but could be worth a look/check/adjust
  8. ahh yea so it's the good base of small mods(headwork, ex side, etc) that makes the cams look super impressive and give the mighty curve... then airflow from runner length/size that dictates peak power, but mess up the base and the curve can move around alot. Wow that 20v is low! I have a friend with a 20v drift starlet (factory computer etc) and it goes really well, I really would have thought it was 110-120kw haha but guess his driving must be really good!
  9. Love watching all your vids! just abit jealous of your dyno! haha I may have missed it but if it's not too late, how about a run with standard intake on bigport head with 193 cams? I found the smallpot version and it's quite impressive to see ~120kw with the factory intake, guessing bigport will be the same but curious to your thoughts?
  10. drftnmaz

    diesel spam

    replace injectors as mentioned... pumps can get expensive and not so easy to change so leave it till last imo I'm guessing it's got a 10psi actuator on the turbo... so I would remove actuator line to turbo and see how how much boost it makes(use your foot to control the boost, it may goto 30psi quite easily if fuel is turned way up haha), turn pump down until it only makes ~11psi total, then refit the line to actuator, this way you know your total fueling isn't too high... If the gate is open then it's wasting fuel Diesels are the opposite to petrol, they are safest when running lean.
  11. drftnmaz

    diesel spam

    From what i've picked up over the years for sizing compounds the rough rule for the cold side is the big turbo should be able to flow 2.5x the air of the little one, and the little one will need more wastegate flow (unless you want to run huge boost) And for the turbine size you treat it as a n/a motor, IE your 15b turbo motor is rated at 114 kW, so you size the turbine housing side to suit a n/a 114kw diesel, maybe a touch bigger for less backpressure... hx40 is just a frame size so doesn't give us alot to work off, but from your description i'm guessing it's the super common SMALL hx40 that is everywhere in nz for cheap (came from man buses and train engines I think) these have the 16cm non wastegated ex housing and a small compressor wheel (54/82mm) and the 2" outlet on the comp housing... the inducer on these comp wheels is only 54mm so it's smaller than some hx35's... so not the best pick for the flow you want, but will work to some extent so give it a go, but personally i'd be looking towards the 58 or 60mm inducer wheel for a compound and probably a smaller ex housing
  12. Next up I got some time to work on the drift car, poor thing hasn't been driven in over a year now... so while I was under the bonnet I thought I should tickle up turbo, It's a KKK K26 from volvo penta, (the marine series of volvo, hence the awesome green you see on alot of my turbos) specs just in case anyone cares is the common 53/64mm turbine(s200 to kids these days) and the comp is 51.7/81mm, not the best match for a sr20de and not the turbo I originally choose and fitted but it's on there and working. (it's a long story) Here's what the turbo housing looks like factory, they cast a ~25degree taper in and the machine the throat from the other side because this cover is used from 42-57mm inducers. | I marked it up and then removed, measured and worked out a 18.4degree angle will make the inlet 68mm and taper all the way to 1mm from the tips of compressor, I then hand finished it, which makes photo's look rubbish, and also dented it on install because it's rather thin at the edge now ## If anyone wants there turbo machined for cheap then hit me up, as long as I can fit it in my lathe then i'm happy to help.
  13. I wanted to put a hx40 into a smaller housing for use on a diesel, hunted through all my garrett housings and only found one that was suitable(saab 900 t3 0.63), but I wanted to save that housing for something else, all the 0.48's i had didn't really have enough meat on the sealing surface on the dump pipe... So I'd sorta given up until I remembered I had a Chinese hx30 on the shelf, it could be genuine but due to the fact the compressor snapped off the shaft and other small things I'm pretty sure it's from china Now those of you that know turbos will know hx30 is alot smaller than the hx40 and the turbine housing uses a V-band connection to the center, and a hx40 uses the traditional 6 bolts (like garrett etc) SO i thought this wasn't a possible combo, but after many measurements and checking I decided to give it a hoon... top is 14cm TS holset housing, middle is partly machined 8cm hx30 housing, bottom is 0.63 garrett t3 Here is the hx30 after the first lot of lathe work, v-band turned down, and inside from a 52/65mm wheel to 64/76mm turbine, The housing is clearly designed to take upto the 67/76mm wheel but machined to suit any size at the factory Next up it went to see Emily and had the 6 flat areas machined and then milled and tapped to suit the normal hx40 spacing+retainer plate, It will also require a spacer/clamp plate but I don't have right size steel for that and it's too hard to buy anything in auckland during lockdown And I thought it best to update the front housing while I was here, this is one of the smaller hx40 compressors, 54/82mm, more often this turbine would use the 60/82mm comp wheel. ,,
  14. Yea the SU's are interesting to get your head around but once you do they are great! things like different oil or springs in the pot etc are great for fine tuning, but hard when rough tuning to know if they are close, also the turbo SU have a needle that was different to all the rest I came across, very thin at lower section and constant taper the whole way, lots of fuel when you need it! Here's some pics, hopefully they help you in noticing the differences... The 2 things I found that usually limit carb setups are proper spark control and correct fuel pressure.
  15. Well that wasn't so hard... So due to the lack of paying work atm i'll move onto my own turbos (silver linings aye!) first up is a turbo for my B6t BD mazda which I'm trying to get back on the road, factory they come with a VJ6 or VJ13 turbo, but these are mostly dead by now so everyone replaces them with a common VF10 from a subaru, these have the same awesome 9 blade turbine but a bigger inducer(7.5mm) on the compressor, I've run these before they are well suited, but then there's a size bigger again called a VF8, this changes to a 10blade turbine and another 5mm on the comp. Vj6 = Turbine 43/52-9 Comp 32/52mm VF10 =Turbine 43/52-9 Comp 39.5/52mm VF8 =Turbine 46.5/52-10 Comp 44.5/56mm So many years ago I got someone else to machine my b6t turbine housing to fit the VF8 turbine, in hindsight I think I'd rather build a hybrid of the vf8 comp on a vf10 turbine wheel, but let's just concentrate on moving forwards not changing the plan! So i decided to tidy up the housings, first up the intake to the turbo, I forgot to take pics, got caught up with the mission at hand, but the internet can supply this pic to show the factory intake (50mm) I made a 10mm bolt on plate (would have gone 8mm but couldn't find any in the workshop) then clocked her up on the lathe and made a 15degree taper from plate to wheel, bringing it to ~62mm then did a bunch of angles to make a bell-mouth of sorts, I will weld a 3" pipe to it that will goto the afm/filter, but won't do this until I can mock up in the car because I think I may have to angle that pipe... Next up I put the turbine housing in the lathe and tapered the exit from 48mm to 52mm(about the limit while still having a decent amount of flange to clamp) only ~5degrees of taper so hard to see in a pic, then I cut up my old dump pipe to get the flange, bolted it to the housing still in the lathe and bored out the flange to match(was 48mm), I also moved the washers between the flange and housing to space them apart so i could oversize this hole as the flange has some movement and I didn't want a lip if installed crooked by accident, also used a taper here to help the gasses to keep expanding and promote turbulent flow Next up the turbine housing had a meeting with Emily, the wastegate hole was machined from 15mm to 22mm and offset upwards a couple mm, then flapper from the scrap td04hl housing was fitted (31mm replacing the 25mm) the arm was then welded to extend it so the flapper could fit, then re-drilled on it's new center, the flapper was put in the lathe and pin height adjusted to suit then welded into the housing, housing also needed a touch of clearance on side, but I don't have a die grinder atm so had to do it on the mill with not much room to do nicely... (you can see in this pic the first taper I did on the turbine exit, I went back and redid this to go almost all the way to the tips) Now that wasn't so hard... up next I wanted a challenge, something I didn't know if it was possible... I have a few hx40's kicking around so wanted to put one of those into a small housing, but of course can't spend any money so have to find something in the collection
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