drftnmaz

Probably no help but ~14years ago when i messed with Delco tuning stuff I remember being stuck and couldn't get the live tuning bit working. Turned out I had to load 2 different files into the program before it would work, was a very simple thing that took me ages before someone pointed it out, (like a Bin file and a xps file or somthing) because everyone else did this without thinking about it so it wasn't ever mentioned, lol. Unfortunately this was so long ago i can't remember the excat details sorry

I don't have the equipment for surfacing the flywheel. To drill, tap, surface and check finger heights was $250, also was worried I may order the wrong part, so i figured it wasn't worth the hassle, and this gearbox is so heavy I don't want to risk having to pull it out again if I got anything wrong. Sent flywheel to MPautoparts, so was quoted $1100, (2700lb clutch kit $700, machining $250, $150 upgrade to ceramic disk) Once they received (sent nzpost, $60 for 25kg flywheel and $24 for 9kg other bits) I choose the Ceramic disc(which they didn't recommend for diesels due to dampening of springs on disc, but suited the torque loads I wanted) Once they inspected they informed me there was a slightly cheaper 3000lb p/plate(to suit ceramic disc) so I went with that. Making the new total $1030inc gst but plus freight($40) (included new release and spigot bearings) Freight back was next day for the flywheel but clutch got lost for a few extra days, Now is all in the vehicle, now more fab work before I can test it out. Greg was knowledgeable, helpful and good to deal with, a little hard to get a hold of, but what busy man isn't! Thanks for the recommendations guys!

Thanks heaps guys! I've been in contact with Greg at Mp and also Drews automotive, both have recommended the same upgrade of drilling and tapping flywheel to fit a more commonly available diesel pressure plate (from D40 best i can tell) and both are in the $1200-1300 range so more what I'd expect. Only minor problem is freight, flywheel on it's own is 25kg(before packaging), but most places won't take over 25kg and I need to send pressure plate aswell, so i'll have to use mainfreight or some such, this freight issue put me off going even further to Christchurch but do really appreciate the info and i'm sure others will see this one day and use them.

Is there any NZ companies that still make custom clutch's? I used to use Autoclutch but he closed down ages ago, unsure who does this sort of work in nz these days? I'm building a tow wagon using QD32 engine with added turbos so need to upgrade the clutch to handle but got quoted $1930 from BNT at trade price for one from xtremeclutch in aus (full face cermic plate rated for 560nm, KNI25004-1C) Maybe i'm getting too old(and inflation is crazier than I thought) but $2k for a clutch seems over the top?

1uz is around 70mm, used one on a2jz build a few years ago, had some ulgy piping off it that i had to weld up tho.

How about triangle trumpets?

Nice, the bigger the dump pipe the better for spool/transient response, this helps with pressure drop across the turbine, it can step down to smaller down the line with next to no losses (ie 4" dump to 3" system, it's cheaper, easier to get, clears ground better etc) And don't go too big on the exhaust crossover pipes, you need to keep velocity high pre-turbine, so close to factory ID and a nice merge where they meet. Being a V motor I'd also consider using a slip join or maybe flexi between the two sides to help with expansion etc (i've never played with flexi's on high temp/pressure side so unsure which one you'd use)

If you want to run low pressure at some point then you want a large gate, if you were only ever running high boost then you'd get away with a small gate... Being over 3L and that big compressor inducer, I'd run a 60mm if it was me, but you'd probably get away with a 50mm if positioned perfectly (this is called wastegate priority)

1600cc n/a shouldn't make too much heat! get your old core modified, so the bottom hose swaps sides and they add a divider plate half way up to make it twin pass, Trevor French Radiators in Otahuhu are real good for this type of work, old school processes and old school prices

I don't think the chinaGTX3582R with .82 turbine would be terrible, just maybe a tad laggy because the compressor will take alot of engery to get spinning fast enough to start making torque, once it does it will be a beast tho! I'd go external gate then you know it will flow enough if you wish to run low boost at some point, it sucks paying for dyno time only to find out gate hole is too small I've had alot of turbo's glowing red hot over the years and the bush bearing ones always lasted longer, I believe its because they have a much higher oil flow so it's better when pushing their limits. (ballbearing you only drip the oil in with 1mm restrictor) auto's put up with bigger turbos because the torque converter will eat up what you give it and load the motor, so this with a 2step to get spooling should give good results at the drag strip once you iron it all out The GT45 is abit bigge, usually has ~68mm comp inducer, but it has the supercharger to spool it so you want a bigger turbo, I haven't watched any vids on it yet tho

Personally I don't think that's too bad of a turbo for the V6 motor (comp inducer is too big IMO). Because it's got the smaller .82 turbine housing (normally has 1.06 on the 4L) then I think It'll probably drive good, but i haven't messed with china replacements so really don't know what it's like or how it will last... Internal gates are great IF it's big enough to bypass enough gas... which is something the genuine 3582's can struggle with when a bigger compressor is added, so most of the time it's safer to go with a bigger external gate and then you know(if installed correctly) it won't ever boost creep and you can change springs to change boost level, personally I'd only run v-band externals, 2-bolt style is asking for trouble one day down the track. The genuine ford turbo would be more suited, but sometimes you gotta work with what you can get... The 30 series turbine is way too small IMO, The 35 turbine wheel flows sooo much more(actually flows amazing amounts for a 68mm size wheel) well on the garrett's it does anyway As for Ballbearing Vs Bush, I'd take bush bearings if available because they last better and are simpler, if going BB then you'd probably want to look at a genuine garrett.

I think I'd make a plate with holes drilled to suit inlet manifold threads on block, have this standing ~2"? off the flange with some long bolts, then add a threaded hole in line with where the frost plug needs to go, then put bolt with lots of thread thru this hole and a socket on the end with the frost plug, turning the block into a press... long winded way to get there, but ya gotta do it the long way somtimes!

yup because vtnz charge $70? per wof so have already factored the constant audit costs into it, most garages only charge ~half that so have to play the balancing game in order to stay in business... and a 18month audit saves you alot compared to a 12month audit! Each to their own, I hope you all drive safe cars and personally don't mind where or how you get your wofs, there is good and bad stories wherever you go! I'm just trying to share some incites

yup I fail 95% of my wofs first time, on purpose... the only car that passes first time is my 2018 corolla, because it should. Having worked at a wof place as a young fulla I learnt how the system worked and how the audits went, and once you get in the bad books with them then the audits get super picky and more frequent, then it costs you lots more to undertake these audits than rechecks ever would. It's a numbers game, and it's played by computers and controlled by bureaucrats, not mechanics, so you gotta play along if you want to be part of it.

For actual damage yes... but any smart wof place will fail you first time every time because it makes them look better in the review system (looks dodgy if you pass everyone first time, but looks good if you are failing 95%), so leaving a obvious fail is the smartest move, like a bulb etc that doesn't work, or they will fail you on something silly to make up for it like wiper blades

I normally just fix and paint to a good standard and go back, only time I've ever had the wof guy say i need a report was the one time i asked if i needed a report... so i think it's one of those things where IF you ask then it backs them into a corner and the goto is "get a report" Did a few patches on a old hiace a month ago, painted etc, went back to VTNZ and no drama. But my friend in Pukekohe was has lots of trouble with VTNZ there and had to get reports every time, I'm starting to think he asked the question so they told him it's needed, personally I'd never choose to goto VTNZ.

ok fair enough, if you can get the manifold to line up and seal then it's a solid start, (but easy enough to build a J pipe from factory manifold and fit turbo in a more suitable place? like the boot? haha) the ford turbos hold their value so prob $600-1k to get a genuine garrett so it might be out of the budget for such a build? I don't have much experience with china turbos but i'd say any of the 'GT35's with big ex housings would work well (ford has 1.06 rear housing from factory) I'll keep a eye out on trademe and next time i'm out bulk buying turbos and see if i spot anything to suit a 4L As for Vac retard of the timing under boost, i have also heard of people doing this but it can be hard to find a multi-direction diaphram to suit, early non computer turbo stuff would be the go for this, cordia/charade carb turbo etc, have heard the mazda b6t (even tho it's efi) may have but never checked.

I'd use a barra turbo and port the gate hole a little, they have factory 5psi gate actuator and sorta suit the engine size, just the manifold could be a pain... Then malpassi low pressure rising rate reg Electric fuel pump and large return line (often we would use ballast resisters to drop voltage to 10V to reduce efi pump flow to suit low presure) Carb needs mod to equalize pressure in fuel bowl under boost I'd use a BOV, even a factory one, recycle it if you don't like the noise biggest problem IMO is timing, without being able to control timing then you have to pick the best compromise, which in turn slowly wears out your engine, but this may takes years to wear so often not mentioned... barras have 2 versions of turbo, a 3576 and a 3582, I'd prefer the 3582 for a 4L(as it has a 60mm inducer) but If you wanna use a china turbo then post up ones your looking at and i'll have a look through them

Generally speaking the more you advance the pump the faster/easier a diesel will start, and louder it knocks/ignities... you really notice it on some engines like ford transits, dunno how easy it is to adjust on your engine but could be worth a look/check/adjust

ahh yea so it's the good base of small mods(headwork, ex side, etc) that makes the cams look super impressive and give the mighty curve... then airflow from runner length/size that dictates peak power, but mess up the base and the curve can move around alot. Wow that 20v is low! I have a friend with a 20v drift starlet (factory computer etc) and it goes really well, I really would have thought it was 110-120kw haha but guess his driving must be really good!

Love watching all your vids! just abit jealous of your dyno! haha I may have missed it but if it's not too late, how about a run with standard intake on bigport head with 193 cams? I found the smallpot version and it's quite impressive to see ~120kw with the factory intake, guessing bigport will be the same but curious to your thoughts?

replace injectors as mentioned... pumps can get expensive and not so easy to change so leave it till last imo I'm guessing it's got a 10psi actuator on the turbo... so I would remove actuator line to turbo and see how how much boost it makes(use your foot to control the boost, it may goto 30psi quite easily if fuel is turned way up haha), turn pump down until it only makes ~11psi total, then refit the line to actuator, this way you know your total fueling isn't too high... If the gate is open then it's wasting fuel Diesels are the opposite to petrol, they are safest when running lean.

From what i've picked up over the years for sizing compounds the rough rule for the cold side is the big turbo should be able to flow 2.5x the air of the little one, and the little one will need more wastegate flow (unless you want to run huge boost) And for the turbine size you treat it as a n/a motor, IE your 15b turbo motor is rated at 114 kW, so you size the turbine housing side to suit a n/a 114kw diesel, maybe a touch bigger for less backpressure... hx40 is just a frame size so doesn't give us alot to work off, but from your description i'm guessing it's the super common SMALL hx40 that is everywhere in nz for cheap (came from man buses and train engines I think) these have the 16cm non wastegated ex housing and a small compressor wheel (54/82mm) and the 2" outlet on the comp housing... the inducer on these comp wheels is only 54mm so it's smaller than some hx35's... so not the best pick for the flow you want, but will work to some extent so give it a go, but personally i'd be looking towards the 58 or 60mm inducer wheel for a compound and probably a smaller ex housing

Next up I got some time to work on the drift car, poor thing hasn't been driven in over a year now... so while I was under the bonnet I thought I should tickle up turbo, It's a KKK K26 from volvo penta, (the marine series of volvo, hence the awesome green you see on alot of my turbos) specs just in case anyone cares is the common 53/64mm turbine(s200 to kids these days) and the comp is 51.7/81mm, not the best match for a sr20de and not the turbo I originally choose and fitted but it's on there and working. (it's a long story) Here's what the turbo housing looks like factory, they cast a ~25degree taper in and the machine the throat from the other side because this cover is used from 42-57mm inducers. | I marked it up and then removed, measured and worked out a 18.4degree angle will make the inlet 68mm and taper all the way to 1mm from the tips of compressor, I then hand finished it, which makes photo's look rubbish, and also dented it on install because it's rather thin at the edge now ## If anyone wants there turbo machined for cheap then hit me up, as long as I can fit it in my lathe then i'm happy to help.

I wanted to put a hx40 into a smaller housing for use on a diesel, hunted through all my garrett housings and only found one that was suitable(saab 900 t3 0.63), but I wanted to save that housing for something else, all the 0.48's i had didn't really have enough meat on the sealing surface on the dump pipe... So I'd sorta given up until I remembered I had a Chinese hx30 on the shelf, it could be genuine but due to the fact the compressor snapped off the shaft and other small things I'm pretty sure it's from china Now those of you that know turbos will know hx30 is alot smaller than the hx40 and the turbine housing uses a V-band connection to the center, and a hx40 uses the traditional 6 bolts (like garrett etc) SO i thought this wasn't a possible combo, but after many measurements and checking I decided to give it a hoon... top is 14cm TS holset housing, middle is partly machined 8cm hx30 housing, bottom is 0.63 garrett t3 Here is the hx30 after the first lot of lathe work, v-band turned down, and inside from a 52/65mm wheel to 64/76mm turbine, The housing is clearly designed to take upto the 67/76mm wheel but machined to suit any size at the factory Next up it went to see Emily and had the 6 flat areas machined and then milled and tapped to suit the normal hx40 spacing+retainer plate, It will also require a spacer/clamp plate but I don't have right size steel for that and it's too hard to buy anything in auckland during lockdown And I thought it best to update the front housing while I was here, this is one of the smaller hx40 compressors, 54/82mm, more often this turbine would use the 60/82mm comp wheel. ,,