simcaclub

Guys, I have scanned this book (330 pages) at my work and run OCR over it and added a menu on the side. Might be handy if you have this engine. I am also looking for an electrical forklift motor> I want to convert my 1958 Simca to a EV. If anybody know one. The internet says it should be a series wound DC electric motor. Link to 7zip file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TH3Mlay0gmwCvVCOC4qnaKgTGbr3a07M/view Or link to PDF file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RgXnLEkzRuoCHIaRtczWJHg--VYUruZY/view

Thanks guys, a colleague got the pin out with a punch and a hard bang. The shaft on the top is worn 0.1mm as well. The guy on my work will have a look in his shed, he maybe has a spare one.

Hi guys, I am refurbishing the distributor from my sons 1988 ke70. Does anybody know how to remove the sprocket on the bottom of this distributor? It looks like it is hold by a pin with the sides hammered. The shaft has 1mm play on the top, and the car is losing all its power in high ref. I saw on fleebay chinese distributors for $87. is that something?

I have cleaned all the engine parts and ordered piston rod bearings and a ring set from bowden engine parts. Complete paints has made a spray can with the original engine color for me. Suvic is gone grind my crankshaft as soon if I have the bearings. The main bearings probably have to come from fleebay. I still have to sort out the seals. Back in the original color: Back in the original color: A box with clean parts. I have to make a detailed photo of the Flash logo on the cover and somehow reproduce it. Nice clean parts: The gearbox looks mint. I am not gone open it up, but leave it as it is.

Glad you like it

Thanks mate, I didn't know his site. This guys has quite a lot! I have send him an email.

I have the engine disassembled, some of the piston bearings are realy bad. I don't trust the main bearings either. I have seen on fleebay a set of spare bearings with a 0.25mm oversize. But first I need to know if that is enough for the crankshaft. Next week I can borrow a tool to measure it up. In the meantime I have cleaned all the parts. Empty engine Parts from engine Some of the piston bearings a quite bad.

I haven't got a lot of time to work on my Simca, but yesterday and today I found some time to disasemble my engine. The engine has only run 50 Kmiles, but looked quite greasy and oily. When I took the head off, I found about 2,5 cm rusty sludge in the cooling channels. The only way to get rid of it is using a water blaster I guess. I already scraped most of the greasy layer off with an old credit card. Beheaded before I scraped the greasy layer off. The cylinders are looking ok with out worn places or scratches Cooling channels full with rusty sludge I'm getting closer to the crank shaft Box full with bits and bobs

It had a learning curve, but I think at the moment it is going well. I bought a 25L container at M10 http://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/storage_shelving/plastic_storage/perroplas_rolling_organiser_40_litre_clear_213519/ (but then 25L) I used the electrolysis formula of this page: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=119931.0 except for corn syrup I used sugar, because I didn't wanted to do another drive to pack$ave. I found out that the hydrochloric acid is quite important, if you don't put your metal in it for 2 minutes, the zinc wont stick to the metal so well. I first used CLR, but that was just not nasty enough. I went to the poolman for the hydrochloric acid, but unfortunately a concrete contractor had bought all the hydrochloric acid in Hawkes Bay. Luckily M10 had it for sale, but more $$$ On Aliexpress I bought this power supply: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Arrival-Mini-Adjustable-DC-power-supply-0-30V-0-10A-110V-OR-220V-Switching-Power/32338449585.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb201556_1,searchweb201644_2_10001_10002_10005_301_10006_10003_10004_62,searchweb201560_3,searchweb1451318400_6151,searchweb1451318411_6449&btsid=e7a7be96-cce8-4965-ac8d-f97420685f57 Don't get to excited about the wires which come with it, they start to smoke at 2.5Amp. But the supply itself is ok.\ Somehere I read that it is the best to use 0.01Amp per square/cm The epsom salt is from hateme: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1013776295 The zince sulfide too: http://www.trademe.co.nz/home-living/outdoor-garden-conservatory/gardening-landscaping-supplies/other/auction-1022637074.htm As for the rod: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boats-marine/parts-accessories/bolts-anodes-fittings/auction-1019781612.htm I have cut the rod in 2 in the lenght, It worked out better. It is a line in sight process. If I knew before, I would had bought 2 rods, I had the blisters on my hand of the cutting. The vinegar came from mrs dobiwallahs kitchun. There are many howtos on the net with different ways to do zinc plating. The one were I got the formula from works for me the best.

HI, I remove the black stuff with my waterblaster with the spinning head on it. It will blow holes in your boots that strong. For the anodes I using iron rod, but I read somewhere that titanium is the best to use. Titanium is what is used in the salt cells of the pool chlorinators. I have tested the titanium anodes from my old salt cell, and this is going quite good. You don't get the build up of the dark brown sludge on your anodes. Today I went to local pool man to ask him if he can save the old salt cells for me, if he is replacing them for his customers. I also diy zinc plate my bolts, nuts and bumper brackets.

Separate the gearbox: End if life for the water pump: Luckily I found a spare in a box somewhere: Removed the front parts. Many bolts and nuts broke off: The front parts are waiting to be processed:

This weekend we have removed the engine from the Simca, and some of the front plate work. From the front parts about 30% of the bolts broke off due to rust. Plus a couple of cages of the square nuts in the beams come lose. Not an not easy to loosen job. A large area was covered with a thick greasy substance, which made it difficult to find some of the bolts. In the meantime I was cooking my bumper parts in my bigger Mr. Fusion container. Since it is virtually impossible to get new or good bumper parts for a Simca in New Zealand, I want to de-rust the bumper parts and smooth them out with filler. After they have been sanded I want to try to wrap them with chrome wrap. I have seen some photos on google with acceptable results http://s176.photobucket.com/user/vette427sbc/media/1955%20Chevy%20Hardtop/99529699-EA12-4280-AA01-9218812B887D-30987-00001B0AAC6CA6CA.jpg.html. (New bumpers from Europe will cost probably around 1500 or 2000 Euros, more value than the whole car) Rusted bumper part: Derusted bumper part: Sprayed in black zinc spray: Taking the engine out: Guitar photo:

Removing the brakes: The brakes looked pretty neat, but I had to press the cylinders out with a grease gun. Totally jammed. In the meantime I am testing derusting objects with electrolysis. Derusting objects with electrolysis works above expectations must I say

My 1958 Simca Aronde Deluxe 1300 project. Although it is called Deluxe 1300, the model is the cheapest available. In Europe and other parts of the world the Simca were known as Simca Aronde (and than model name). In New Zealand they were only known as Simca Deluxe or Simca P60. Only the saloons were imported. In the rest of the world more models were available, like sports convertibles, pickups, vans and more luxurious saloon models, inclusive 2 door models. Simca is not that well known anymore. My project: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51413-simcaclubs-1958-simca-aronde-deluxe-1300/

A week ago I got the keys handed over from Colin, the dad of the previous owner of this Simca. Me and my son have checked the Simca, and we found out that some parts underneath are pretty rotted. On one side the sill is a large black hole with a view to the inside of the car (interesting though) Our goal at the moment is to get it back on the road. The second goal is doing the cosmetic upgrade. It looks like the car has been resprayed somewhere in the seventies. The original color is maroon. I haven't decided if I revert it back yet. Front side: The bumbers have been sprayed, but underneath the paint they are fairly rotten. The doors need a bit of welding The rear bumpers are rotten too. Under the bonnet: A engine with a name: