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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt

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Ok so for years i've been wondering why tractor pullers take so long to build rpm and boost, and only just thought to google it.

Sorry if this is really obvious to you guys, but this blew my mind.

 

The diesel pullers run a low compression engine..   Engine compression heats the  air hot enough to ignite the injected diesel fuel.   With the lower compression, diesel fuel has trouble igniting in the cylinder. This is why you see many of the diesel puller engine start with LOTS of ether assist.                        To build heat in the cylinder the puller will very slowly advance the throttle to speed the engine.  If he pushes the throttle too quickly the additional fuel will cool the cylinder enough that the engine will die.   As he advances the throttle he will load the engine by slipping the clutch.  As the engine takes more load, the turbo, or turbos will start to build manifold pressure.  As the manifold pressure increases the cylinder pressure rises allowing more fuel to burn.  The more fuel that burns, the faster the turbo spins,  the faster the turbo spins the more fuel.  (you get the picture)   As HP and RPM build the engine will finally be making maximum horsepower and the clutch can be released.  And the pull is ON.. 

 

 

P.S.   The low compression is so the turbo can pack more air into the cylinder without blowing a head gasket or worse. 

How amazing is that, it's squirting in so much fuel that it can put out the fire.

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5 minutes ago, UTERUS said:

Ok so for years i've been wondering why tractor pullers take so long to build rpm and boost, and only just thought to google it.

Sorry if this is really obvious to you guys, but this blew my mind.

 

The diesel pullers run a low compression engine..   Engine compression heats the  air hot enough to ignite the injected diesel fuel.   With the lower compression, diesel fuel has trouble igniting in the cylinder. This is why you see many of the diesel puller engine start with LOTS of ether assist.                        To build heat in the cylinder the puller will very slowly advance the throttle to speed the engine.  If he pushes the throttle too quickly the additional fuel will cool the cylinder enough that the engine will die.   As he advances the throttle he will load the engine by slipping the clutch.  As the engine takes more load, the turbo, or turbos will start to build manifold pressure.  As the manifold pressure increases the cylinder pressure rises allowing more fuel to burn.  The more fuel that burns, the faster the turbo spins,  the faster the turbo spins the more fuel.  (you get the picture)   As HP and RPM build the engine will finally be making maximum horsepower and the clutch can be released.  And the pull is ON.. 

 

 

P.S.   The low compression is so the turbo can pack more air into the cylinder without blowing a head gasket or worse. 

How amazing is that, it's squirting in so much fuel that it can put out the fire.

Cool story bro, but you missed the best bit.

 

 

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Cold start on the Perkins with a half chooched starter motor this morning was hard going. My terminal arcing tool started to get a bit hot. 

Iced seat also sucked. 

Got in a few good hours of podcasts though.

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Wondering if anyone can give me some ideas, my GS450 recently shat the bed and fried the reg/rec. it drained the battery, would push start ok for a bit then wouldn’t push start at all. The coil runs off the battery so once battery was dead flat nothing it wouldn’t run at all.  

Replaced the regulator today with a similar model, off a GSX400E Of the same vintage. Same colour connections etc. after fully charging the battery, I started bike up and it blew the main fuse after a few seconds. Lights and ancillaries don’t seem to blow it just when the bike is starting/running. 

Any ideas on why it might be blowing the fuse? Have checked all the immediate earths and everything is secure

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What is the state of the alternator and battery since the reg/rec shit itself? One of the three failing can cause the others to fail also.

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It's a common problem for old Suzukis, on my old Kat I had to have the alternator rewound and most of the others I had got new reg/recs after having charging issues.

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14 minutes ago, kicker said:

What is the state of the alternator and battery since the reg/rec shit itself? One of the three failing can cause the others to fail also.

battery was drained and i charged it back up, reading healthy voltage. also sounded fine when it cranked today so i think its doing its job. 

think stator could potentially be chooched eh, i will run a multimeter over this new reg/rec tomorrow to confirm its still ok, and then probably check the stator. its weird that a stator would blow the fuse instantly tho, could it be shorting out?

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Huge numbers of old japanese bikes had poor connections between the phases of the stator and the reg/rec. Probably worth checking too.

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U660e transmission. Do these have any issues?

My flatmate has a car with one that has 511,000 km on it and wants to give it a service. Does it have a filter that needs doing too, or just a case of dump the old fluid at 40C, and fill it up with new stuff and get it to just dripping out the overflow tube at idle/40C?

Car currently works perfectly but has unknown servicing history

 

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Is it a camry? That was the first youtube video that came up with I looked up that gearbag. Funnily enough a transmission fluid check/change video. Looks like a job to have someone else do lol.

 

 

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That video is mostly correct (i install the 24mm before starting, and level it down to a fine trickle, less coming out than on the video before installing drain plug). Have serviced a few of those, just make sure you check the trans temp via obd2. At work we would do a basic flush by filling and draining a couple of times, running it through the gears between drops before doing the final fill and using the overflow tube to level it.

Not sure about filter, have never had to do one.

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Good advice above.

There is a filter. It should be a steel mesh type that can be cleaned. Not usually changed for a Toyota Trans Service, but we don’t see a lot of them over 500k. It probably is worth taking the pan off and giving it a clean up. Make sure you use the correct fluid. Recently there has been a shortage of Toyota Genuine WS atf and we have been told to use Dexron VI.

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Thanks guys

 

Another question about the same car (2009 Aurion), have you ever encountered the heater only working on the passenger side? Always blows cold on drivers side (face, foot, defog)

 

I guess it is the air mix servo motor that is buggered?

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Servo moves and the gear is fully engaged (big tooth in right place etc). Maybe the door has come off the shaft inside the box or something?

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2012 Transit custom, a few niggles such as trip meter resetting each day. Radio stopped working last week so I did some digging. It runs dual batteries and I've found that one runs accessories and the other is starter battery. Both are joined while starting, so using both. 

Finally got around to removing drivers seat to get to them. One is on 8-9v, so that solves that question. However, for now I have just swapped them around. Radio working again as accessories now running off the good battery.

Can anyone see an issue with just rolling like this for now? Will do my homework on battery replacement. But my theory is that it will run fine as it's only during starting the now did battery is used. I just want some sounds till I get new batteries.

Lost radio a couple of weeks ago. It has a stupidly overbuilt starter, will having less start up power do any damage to said starter?

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I needed some 20x20 box steel and bought some but it measures only 19x19mm, I cot a cople other sizes and they are also way off, is there a place in auckland that sells better quality?

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How cold is it in your shed, might need to warm it up a little to account for shrinkage.

 

 

Chinese sourced box section? Try some NZ made. Ironmaiden claims to have better stock

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